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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    I agree. Dick
  2. rhncue
    Rick Hafferkamp of http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/products.htm usually has them in stock and gives a discount to members here. Dick
  3. rhncue
    I put on a Progressive rear spring last summer and it helped very little in my case. Are you sure that the air is in the rear shock and not just saying it's there on the controller? Although the bike is supposed to be on the center stand when filling with air, try going from 0 lbs. pressure to max while the bike is on the side stand and see if the bike rises or not. Dick
  4. rhncue
    I put a new inner speedometer cable on my 83 just last week. I got it from an automotive parts store. It is a universal inner cable that you cut off to length and and it has a small square end that gets staked in place. Works perfectly and only cost 6.06 out the door. Dick
  5. rhncue
    My 83's rpms are slightly over 3000 at 55 mph. I weigh 290 but if I am in a hurry the front end lifts going from first to second gear. Dick
  6. rhncue
    If he has a stock 83 it doesn't have a c/b radio, just the am/fm. My 83 had a long whip antenna and picked up reception pretty good on the radio. I lost that antenna and haven't been able to find another 5 foot or so whip antenna so I bought a regular size replacement antenna for a car. It's not as long as the original and now the reception is much worse. I also would like to find a stock length, or longer, whip antenna. Would a Fire Stick c/b antenna improve the radio reception? Dick
  7. rhncue
    I also have two sets of carbs for an 83 and mine, like yours, have only one place for the "C" clip. Dick
  8. rhncue
    Sorry, my bad. I just took one apart again and now see what you described. I never noticed that before. Dick
  9. rhncue
    The change was made from 83 to 84. All bikes from 84 through, I believe 89, when the ignition became digital, are the same. They kept making improvements to the units so the later the unit the better. The difference between the 83 and later years is how the spark advance is emitted. One uses above throttle plate vacuum and the other uses below plate vacuum. This is one reason that later year carbs must have modifications to be used on an 83 for proper performance. Dick
  10. rhncue
    I believe all of the V-max starters will fit but if I remember correctly the 95 up has the 4-brush starters that use the voltage more efficiently and are desired. Dick
  11. rhncue
    That little tit sticking down from the plastic spacer is supposed to fit into a hole in the slide. If when installed this little tit is not placed into that hole it will put the needle in a bind and at an angle. If it is installed correctly the spacer will only be around a .100 and the needle will be free to wiggle a little bit and align itself with the nozzle. Dick
  12. rhncue
    Just riding and using rear brake may well fix the problem. The problem could be the pads as you suspect or it could be a stiff and sticking piston in the caliper. If after a week or so of usage you still have the problem I would pull and rebuild the caliper. Easy to do and not expensive. Dick
  13. rhncue
    I believe the the recommended resistance is 5,000 ohms. The plugs have this resistance. I believe I read somewhere one time that the recommended wire plug caps also had resistance built into them and that the bike would run better with regular plugs but my memory is fuzzy on the details now. I do know that you want copper wire, not carbon core. Dick
  14. rhncue
    I called some of the dealers today and of coarse no one had one. I just went to an auto parts store and got a universal inner cable that is extra long. It needs cut to length and then it has a nipple that goes onto the end and is staked in place. The price was 6.06 out the door. I'm about to go out and install in a couple of minutes. Thanks for the information, Dick
  15. rhncue
    Speedometer hasn't worked for a couple of months so I tore into it this evening. The inner cable is broke. I got both ends out but it was still plugged just about where it had broke. I straightened out a close hanger but it wasn't long enough so I put the cable back in upside down so that the nipple on the end came down against the clog and then I used the close hanger to push it through and worked it back and forth until it moved freely. I doubt any stores have the cable in stock and I have the entire dash pulled apart to get the cable loose. I would like to put the cable back in before so that I don't have to tear apart again when the part arrives. I went to an auto parts store (Advance Auto Parts) to get a universal inner cable and the people never heard of them. I then went to another part store (Autozone) and after waiting for 10 minutes I told the counter guy what I wanted and he said that he had laid it out for ME when I called. I told him I hadn't called so he looked around and said he had no other ones. By now it was 8:45 and I never had time to go to another parts store before they all closed. After this long prologue the question is: has anyone ever used an after market auto universal inner cable before and if so, was there a particular model car? It's hot outside and if it wasn't for this I would be out riding. I sure don't want to wait a week or 10 days to get one from Yamaha. Anyone have any information? As usual, thanks in advance for any help, Dick
  16. rhncue
    The repair is the same procedure if not the same parts. It could be the washer being worn but chances are the fork is bent and the dogs are now rounded. Either way the motor needs pulled and split for the repair. Once inside, the culprit parts can be assessed. Dick
  17. rhncue
    Four pistons in calipers compared to two in early and vented disks. Dick
  18. rhncue
    I swapped mine a few weeks ago. As has been said, improved brakes, smoother ride and better anti-dives. I had unhooked my hydraulic anti-dives on my 83 for better braking but it made the front end bottom out so badly when braking that I had to do something. I ran into a bargain and bought the complete front end including master cylinder off an 86 or 87. Dick
  19. rhncue
    I'm not into what the EPA are trying to accomplish so I may very well be incorrect in my assessment but my question is: Does having the engine run richer, improve the air quality? That just sounds backwards to me. Dick
  20. rhncue
    Have you looked beyond the carb. to the basic engine condition? You must have good compression for a cylinder to have proper draw for the carb. to work properly. A sticking valve, a chip of carbon or a valve out of adjustment will affect the compression. Dick
  21. rhncue
    The answer is yes and no. Yes they will work but there must be a modification to the plug. Yamaha, whom likes to sell their parts, changed their flashers so that the circuitry to the prongs that the wires connect to the are different to an autos prongs. I had this problem on an 80XL11. I used a jumper to see the correct wires to prongs sequence so that the auto flasher would work and then just cut and reversed those two wires going to the plug. I don't know what Yamaha wants for a flasher now-a-days but in the 80s it was 33.00 compared to about 4.00 for autos. Dick
  22. rhncue
    I'm not sure. My old master and switch had two wires other than the two resevoir wires, one brown (hot) and one green with yellow stripe. The new master has 4 wires, one brown, one green with yellow stripe, one black with white and one yellow. I connected the brown and green with yellow to the brown and green with yellow wires for the brake light and the brake light doesn't work. I checked the continuity and there is none when the switch is operated however the yellow does show continuity when the switch is operated. Something is not connected properly as the brown wire to the brake light switch is hot and when the switch is operated the voltage runs trough the other wire lighting the brake light. They say that the manuals are back up so I'm going to trace which wire goes where. Thanks for your help. Dick
  23. rhncue
    Is anyone else having trouble bringing up the 1st gen service manuals and parts diagrams in the 1st gen tech library? I just tried to see a wiring schematic of the later 1st gens anti-dive system and none of the manuals will come up. I have the early 1st gens repair manual but it doesn't have the schematics for the later first gens. I need to compare. Dick
  24. rhncue
    Further down the forums list on this site you will see a forum called "First gen tech library". The last link in the library is a copy of both of the first gen factory repair manuals and part numbers. These manuals have all of the wiring schematics printed in them. Dick
  25. rhncue
    It could be a couple of things but to much fluid in the master can cause that. There also is a tiny hole in the bottom of the master where the piston slides through. This hole relieves the fluid pressure when the brake lever is relaxed. If this hole is clogged this can occur as the clutch is never fully released. Dick
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