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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    Here is what I responded to: Quote: Originally Posted by Mortch DO NOT USE A SPRAY CAN. If Your Serious about doing this. and why not? Mine looks great and the paint is the same paint as that used in spray gun applications on any vehicle. Granted, it takes a lot more practise and patience to get a good, even coat and the clear I used required sanding with 1200 wet/dry and a good polishing to get that "wet glass" look. __________________ (if a ball peen hammer won't fix it - silicone will !) Mortch says that spray cans are bad and you contradict with a blanket statement that Spray Cans are the same that Body Shops use and I beg to disagree. Dick
  2. rhncue
    On these bikes, the pump will only run when the motor is running. It will only pump for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on and then quits. If you want to check for leaks or carbs over flowing you have to keep turning the ignition on and off. I can see no way that the carbs could possibly leak a tank of gas into the crankcase after the bike has been turned off as once the carb is empty it cannot be refilled unless the motor is running. If the gas ran out after stopping then there has to be a leak either in the tank it self or the line running to the fuel tank to the pump. Dick
  3. rhncue
    I put one in that spot years ago and I hooked it directly to the battery with an in-line fuse so yes, mine had power all the time. Dick
  4. rhncue
    Rick Haffercamp of http://www.buckeyeperformance.com is often on this forum but he is at present on vacation. Dick
  5. rhncue
    Boy, I sure disagree here. Paint cans are either lacquer or enamel. Lacquer thinner melts plastic and Enamel needs baked to get hard. Few shops use either of these finishes any longer. Most now use a three part Urethane which is faster drying, harder, shines much better, is much more expensive and is deadly to use without the proper safety equipment and know how. I use this stuff daily. When rubbing out I start wet sanding with either 1000 or 1200 and work up to 2500 and then go to rubbing and polishing compounds. Dick
  6. rhncue
    Bad news, Rick Haffercamp of Buckeye Performance left to go on vacation, for a week, this morning. He dropped some brake pads off for me at around 7:00 A.M. on his way out of town. Dick
  7. rhncue
    What year is the manual? I have an 83 and the fuses for the radio are normal glass fuses stuck that are found stuck behind the drivers side speaker. I also have a spare wiring harness that does not have this type of fuse box or connector on it anywhere. Could this type of extra fuse box for the radio been added at a later year than 83? Dick
  8. rhncue
    I get 29 to 30 mpg if I drive in the city, the highway , fast, slow or I think, even if I have it on a trailer. Dick
  9. rhncue
    underneath the lever is a screw that can be tightened slightly to increase friction if I remember correctly. Dick
  10. rhncue
    I would have to say that your reg/rec is the culprit, not the stator. Running to many lights or anything else that uses more than the 30 amps that the stator puts out will affect your battery and possibly, maybe, the regulator but it will do no harm to the stator as the stator puts out it's full amount of amperage at around 2500 rpm. What amperage is not used the reg/rec sends to ground. I would say that one or more of the six diodes in the reg/rec is bad and letting the amps from the battery flow back into the stator and causing your problems. Follow the manuals directions on checking the diodes in the rectifier and I bet you will find your problem. Dick
  11. rhncue
    My 83 does that about once or sometimes twice a year. My trouble is where the rear brake lever connects to the round bar going through the frame. Rust and dirt gets into the frame bushing at this point and makes the clearance to slight so that this bar binds. When the brakes are applied and then released, the return spring is not strong enough to fully release the rear brake. At first it is not severe enough to keep the brakes on hard but enough so that the bleed hole is not uncovered releasing the pressure. As time goes on it increasingly gets worse. To repair the brake lever needs to be removed, the master cylinder needs moved and the plate that the rear foot pegs are attached to needs removed and the rod worked out the back side. Once out it needs cleaned good and greased back up and reinstalled. Yesterday while riding mine I felt it not fully releasing again so tonight or tomorrow I'm going to tear it down, put in a grease fitting and some grooves so that I won't have to go through this again. If you just work some oil into the bushing it will loosen up but won't last long as the oil will wash away. As long as there is grease then water can't enter. Dick
  12. rhncue
    Yes. Dick
  13. rhncue
    Yes, I have. The switch can be replaced but you must find a supplier. Radio Shack used to carry them but quit. If I remember correctly they are a 6X6X4.3 mm tact switch. Dick
  14. rhncue
    I took a closer look at those and went and looked at mine and they are different. On those the rubber and metal are the same height. I wouldn't want them. Dick
  15. rhncue
    I have a set, if not those, then very similar. The ones that I have the rubber ridges protrude slightly above the metal. If that is how these are, then, I would say they are the best grips I've ever purchased for any bike. If the rubber does not protrude, then I wouldn't own them. The raised rubber ridges make it very easy and comfortable to use the throttle. If the rubber is not raised, however, it would take a lot stronger grip to keep the throttle from slipping and then you can look for cramps in the forearm. Although foam grips are very comfortable, I have found that they deteriorate pretty quickly. Might just be me getting some kind of solvent or gas on them but over the years I've had to replace the foam ones every year or two. Dick
  16. rhncue
    No and no. I'm afraid that the first Gens are obsolete and there is very little in accessories available for them. Just got to check e-bay and scrap yards and hope to get lucky. Dick
  17. rhncue
    I have to agree 1000% here. It's not that difficult to get off and much easier to reinstall. All I did was loosen all pipe connections, at muffler, at heads, at collector and unbolted collector from engine. I just worked the loosened connections, creating more play until the collector dropped down from the rear pipes. Once off, all of the rust can be removed from the pipe connectors to access if they are in need of repair also from heat and rust. I cut a H patterned cut in the bottom of the collector with a small hand grinder, peeled open the collector, removed baffles, refolded and re-welded the collector and painted with high temp. paint. I also had to replace the necks on the rear of the collector where the mufflers connect as they were about ate away. I just took the collector with me to a Auto parts store that had a number of different size and bends of pipe connections and found a couple close to what was needed. Marked how they would go back on and then chopped off the old and put on the new. There was someone on Venture.Org who was making new ones for these bikes out of both steel and stainless that weren't as constricting and supposedly giving more power. I don't know if he is still making them or not. I redid mine about 8 years ago and it is still solid and not leaking. Dick
  18. rhncue
    The 83 carbs are different than all later years. 84 up are the same. 83 through 85 are 1200cc and 86 on are 1300. The 1200's had what is called a YICS system and I believe the 1300's don't have this but if you change engines it wouldn't be a problem. As far as engine swap, they are identical but as has been said, it is a lot of work and I wouldn't do it if I never had to. It is nice to know that you have a back-up engine in case anything ever went bad on the primary though. Dick
  19. rhncue
    I would have to say that your float valves are leaking. If it was the drain screws being loose the fuel wouldn't be coming out of the overflow tube but the drain at the bottom of the carb. This often is caused by dirt or rust in the float bowl. Take a screwdriver handle and rap the sides of the offending carbs a few times and see if that seats the needle and stops the gas flow. If it does I would then drain the float bowl and see what comes out with the gas. If there is any sediment then I would then change the fuel filter and run some Sea Foam through the system to clean up the carbs some. If rapping on the carbs doesn't stop the problem then the carbs must be disassembled and see if the needle and valve are bad or if the float has sunk and is not cutting off the flow of gas as it is supposed to do. Dick
  20. rhncue
    When soldering electrical components, for the solder to stick properly the tracks and the prongs must be perfectly clean so it is always best to suck off old solder and put on new but usually people don't do it this way. Use rosin to clean the components and only the prongs need to be soldered to the tracks. Rosin core solder is the only type that can be used on electrical products. Dick
  21. rhncue
    The diaphragms may have went up some but Rick Hafferkamp of Buckeye Performance was selling them for around 55.00. You usually can tell when the enrichner diaphragms go bad as the bike will pop through the carbs on deceleration. Dick
  22. rhncue
    I have an E3 on the back and like it very much. I just wish that they would start making one for the front. I hope the E3 gets mileage like the E2, over 22,000 miles on back and so far over 27,000 on front. That may be one reason why they cost more than Metzlers. Dick
  23. rhncue
    I have rebuilt my slave in the past and it was a pain in the arse. Rebuilding the unit wasn't tough but getting it out was. A lot of folks on this forum have said that they just replaced theirs with a new slave as they aren't that expensive but if that is true it would be a first for Yamaha. The hard part is that the unit is held in place by two 5.5mm socket head screws and are lock-tighted in place. When you go to remove these two bolts be sure to clean the sockets well with carb cleaner, use a good, hard Allen wrench, and I put some Glover valve grinding compound onto the end of the wrench so as to stop it from slipping and rounding the Allen wrench, or worse, the socket head screw. Once the screws are out you have to keep playing with the slave to get it out as it only comes out one way and actually doesn't seem like it will. Rebuilding was simple if you have a brake cylinder hone to take the burnish off of the walls. Mine was filled up with dirt and sediment so that there was little movement of the piston. Made a huge difference in the clutch disengagement process once completed. Dick
  24. rhncue
    If the bike has sat for awhile the plates may have sort of glued themselves to each other. When starting my bike after it has sat for a period, I put the bike in third gear, before starting the engine and then with the clutch lever pulled in, I rock the bike back and forth until the plates break loose from each other. I then put the bike back in neutral and start and engage first gear as usual. Dick
  25. rhncue
    As has been said, there is a lacquer film protecting the aluminum alloy from oxidation. After the lacquers removal there are a number of products that can be used to make the alloy shine like chrome. Be warned though, that if the lacquer is not replaced on the bright work, oxidation will start it's work immediately. Unlike decorative chrome, which is a very shiny protective metal, aluminum needs protection or it must be maintained to keep it's appearance. This means weekly cleanings and polishings or the metals will become very pitted and oxidized and hard to bring back to a shine. A lacquer coating is a compromise, not as shiny as the bare metal but much more protected so that it is not so labor intensive keeping it polished. Dick
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