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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    I just found this on e-bay. It is a lot cheaper than others on there which is not always good but here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/odyssey-battery-pc-680MJ-honda-acura-jdm-and-more_W0QQitemZ320198046101QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33574QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
  2. rhncue
    I got my Odyssy from a store on e-bay. It's price including shipping was something around 108.00 if I remember correctly. Dick
  3. rhncue
    I believe I would be looking into the carbs floats. Sounds way to rich. You can try Sea Foam first and see if it helps but usually if it is running to rich then it's floats or air jets and Sea Foam doesn't clean the air jets. After the Sea Foam treatment remove air box and squirt carb cleaner into those air jets and then pull slides covers and squirt some into the jet in there. You also need to take a compression check as if the rear pipes were that loose for very long you may have burned an exhaust valve. I'm about to leave for Michael's Billiards in Fairfield in a couple of minutes so if you read this and want to talk about it I'll be there the rest of the evening. Dick
  4. rhncue
    I would like to know how many miles or the length of time a person can expect to get out of a set of Progressive springs before they break down? I put in a set around 7 years ago and now the bike bottoms out at times. I'm not sure if it is the front, rear or both but it makes for a rough ride. Dick
  5. rhncue
    The mounting bracket is welded to the dash frame. To remove or install a mirror you merely lift the rubber boot from around the mirrors base and use a Phillips screw driver to remove the two screws. Dick
  6. rhncue
    83 and 84 is where most problems occurred. This was caused by a thrust washer in the transmission not being properly hardened. By 85 the bike became very dependable. The early bikes had a problem with 2nd as you mentioned and some also had a problem with the frame rusting and cracking. The carbs and CDI were slightly changed in 84. I have an 83 and have not had any problems that the early years are known for. Dick
  7. rhncue
    It sounds to me that your air pressure is not set right. I started using a machine in 1993 but discontinued after a couple of years and the loss of 75 lbs. I started using again about 3 years ago. I know that when my mask is on that it is very difficult for me to try and take a breath through my mouth. It's almost like it is locked shut anytime there is air pressure coming through the nose. I went in for a sleep study again about a month ago as I've put on more weight and the pressure needs to now be increased. At present I'm using 10 lbs. pressure but it needs raised. If I lay down and take a short nap without the machine as soon as I fall asleep I'll immediately awaken out of breath. Dick
  8. rhncue
    What year bike are you talking about? It sounds like a 2nd gen instead of a first. Dick
  9. rhncue
    Moving the CDI is the smartest move you've made. Gets it out of the elements better, away from the engine heat and of coarse, now it's easy to check. I moved mine 7 or 8 years ago. I keep a spare CDI and when I have troubles the first thing I do is to swap them so as to eliminate that one parameter from what may be wrong Dick
  10. rhncue
    I have used a vacuum pump to bleed brakes and such for some time now with pretty good success. A few months ago, someone on here mentioned the one-man bleeder valves that replace the normal bleeder. You just attach a hose so that the fluid goes into a container instead of the ground, unloosen the valve and pump the lever. When air bubbles stop in the hose just tighten the valve and do the next caliper. Takes about a minute or two for each caliper. What could be easier. Dick
  11. rhncue
    84 to around 90 will work. 83 is different. Dick
  12. rhncue
    They often are on e-bay fairly cheaply. The shop manual says that they can't be rebuilt and should never be split however I have done this in the past because I'm nosey and don't like being told I can't do something. Dick
  13. rhncue
    When an engine is slow returning to idle this is often a sign of a vacuum leak. With bike running at idle you can squirt a little starting fluid around the intake boots and hoses. If the rpms raise you know you have an vacuum leak. Dick
  14. rhncue
    I used to belong to the Venturers motorcycle org and Atlanta Motor Sports sold the 4-brush V-Max starters to members for 150 something dollars. I believe a 95 up V-Mag is what used the 4-brush set. This was some time ago though. Dick
  15. rhncue
    Often, after long service, crud will accumulate in the slave cylinder. As this occurs it builds up and as it does the piston in the slave cannot move as much as it should as the crud's volume is making the cylinder shorter in length. When it gets to bad the slave needs to be dismantled and cleaned. I had the same problem a few years ago. After rebuilding the Master, then the clutch pivot cylinder, then the clutch handle to no avail, I finally pulled the slave and it was half filled with gunk and dirt. Cleaned and installed a rebuild kit and all was fine. Another often overlooked problem is the flexible brake line running to the slave. It deteriorates over time and gets mushy. When this happens, instead of moving the slave piston when the Master is engaged, the line swells absorbing a lot of the transferred force. A stainless flex line is a sure cure for that problem. Dick
  16. rhncue
    There are a number of reasons for a clutch to slip. There are very few reasons for a clutch to slip at different times. Spring, plates, friction discs, oil and slave do not change at different temperatures. The only thing that changes is the brake fluid that is used for linkage. As it gets hot, it expands. There is no getting around this and this is your problem. The master cylinder is designed so that as the brake fluid expands, the pressure is relieved by escaping from the system, back into the reservoir. The only thing in the entire clutch system that will cause slippage changes thru heat is the master cylinder or the reservoir over filled. Air, water, bad slave, or spring has no effect, only the Master. With this knowledge in hand you know that the master is the culprit, makes no difference if it is rebuilt or not, it is not relieving the pressure. If it is not overfilled then it was improperly rebuilt or dirt was again allowed to clog the relief hole. This is your problem. Dick
  17. rhncue
    I would check the solder connections as has already been recommended as it is the easiest to do. On the compressor there is a filter that keeps the air dry that go's thru the solenoids to the respective shocks. If either of these three solenoids don't work, because of lack of signal or corrosion, then you will get an error message. Since you are getting a air pressure reading, but no corresponding air transfer, it may mean that these solenoids are not opening as they should. Dick
  18. rhncue
    Running carb cleaner thru carbs will not correct a rich mixture. You can run 6 gallons of Sea Foam to no avail. The carbs need cleaned. For every fuel jet in the carb you also have an air jet and running a carb cleaner is no help as it never enters an air jet. Air jets must be cleaned from the outside, not thru the fuel system. Depending on your experience, it takes any where from 3 hours to 8 hours to remove and clean a rack of carbs. The first time I removed my carbs it took well over an hour to pull the rack. The last time I did it it took less than 8 minutes to install and about the same to remove. You learn some tricks after the first attempt. As far as cleaning, it depends if you do one carb or all at once. I always do mine one at a time so that they stay square with each other. I pull all the bowls, floats, jets and diaphragms at the same time keeping each carbs parts separate from each other. I then remove one body and soak that body and parts in cleaner for about 30 to 45 minutes. I brush and blow the parts clean and then resemble that carb and replace on rack and then remove another body. This way, all parts go back where they should and all parts and passageways are cleaned. The small holes in the needle tube and the small pilot jets are what get clogged, the main jet is large and a bolder would be needed to clog it. The easiest way to set the floats, which by the way is usually one reason for running rich, is to set the correct levels before reinstalling back onto the bike. What you need to use is a fuel cell to hold the gas. What I use is a gas tank off of a lawn mower. Hang it up with a flexible line going to the carbs inlet, level the carbs, both front to back and side to side and then hook a clear fuel line to each float bowl. Turn on the gas and with the clear line along side the carb it is easy to see the level and then the bowl can easily be removed for adjustment until correct. If all else is correct, if the level is to low the carb will have less pressure and run lean and if to high, it will run rich. Dick
  19. rhncue
    I would imagine "Wide open throttle". Dick
  20. rhncue
    Sounds to me as if you are running extremely rich. I doubt if it is even jets but probably float levels set way to high. If the bike will scream with the cover off the air box it has to be getting an awful lot of gas. Dick
  21. rhncue
    Almost any generic part store ( Auto Zone, Advance Auto and such) that sells plugs also sell the NGK plug boots that fit the Venture. Solid copper core wire, which is used on Ventures, is also sold. The total price for all new wires and caps is only a little over 25.00. Dick
  22. rhncue
    Being the inquisitive type, I was wondering how you were able to measure the oil level in the compressed forks? Dick
  23. rhncue
    There may not be a part number but Rick Haffercamp of Buckeye Performance got me new ones without any problem for an 83. Dick
  24. rhncue
    Buckeye Performance sells a set of fork covers that have velcro on them so that they just wrap around the tubes and the ends stick together. Dick
  25. rhncue
    You commented that there is nothing wrong with using spray "canned" paint and I disagreed. You further go into some detail about the paint that you used was mixed at a body shop or paint store and then put into one of your refillable "bombs". I believe these refillable bombs filled with automotive paint, although in a can, are highly different than what most people would consider as a commercial, over the counter paint spray "can". Apparently you do also or you probably would have used them instead of the trouble and expense of using your bombs. What you actually used was a automotive finish but with a portable air supply instead of a compressor . Over the years I have attempted to use a number of different brands of "canned" spray paint with dismal results in every case. It usually looked good but the least little bit of gas or sap or dirt for that matter and the finish either peeled or scratched from being entirely to soft. I spray clear coat daily and have never found a canned spray clear coat even remotely hard enough. I've never tried the brand that you said that you used but I have tried at least a dozen or dozen and a half and quit looking. Now, if I need to spray a very small area, like 4 square inches, I mix a batch of 3 part urethane, spray for five seconds or so, throw away the remainder and clean the gun. That means about 7.00 of material and 45 minutes for a little squirt but it is worth it in the long run as little affects this finish. Dick
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