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rhncue

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Everything posted by rhncue

  1. rhncue
    When re-installing the fill plug it's imperative not to tighten to solidly. Those pot metal reservoirs are known to have that piece broke off when trying to remove. I tried re-attaching mine a couple of different ways (epoxy, JB weld and such) to no avail. It's just to hard to get the porous pot metal clean enough and brake fluid eats everything. I used JB weld to hold it together long enough to find another one on e-bay. Dick
  2. rhncue
    I've got 18 of that same style but mine each have 2 incandescent bulbs in them. The stator handles all of them. I'm getting ready to start changing all of mine over to the L.E.D. type as they use so little wattage compared to the incandescent type. Dick
  3. rhncue
    That rack will only fit an 83 or 84 trunk. The 85 up trunks are different and use a different rack. Dick
  4. rhncue
    I believe the backrest itself is the same but the mounting brackets are different. You can't mount the early brackets onto the later first gens. Dick
  5. rhncue
    Here is one: http://www.motorcycleseatcovers.com/ Dick
  6. rhncue
    I must say, "That bike looks much better than mine undressed than mine does on the road". Dick
  7. rhncue
    I have found the bike certainly has the power and gearing to go faster than any 110 but all of the wind catching and deflecting fairings makes the bike to hard to handle at higher speeds. I have taken my 83 to above 110 many, many times but just for very short periods such as entering an interstate and wanting to let my wings loose. I never ride for sustained periods over about 95 and actually prefer 90. I had a couple of XS11's that you could ride at 125 with no hands. I took one of them to 145 on two different occasions and the front end started to shimmy but I quickly dropped back down to 125 and it stopped. These big bikes are not designed and properly set up for high speed runs as the rice-rockets are. Dick
  8. rhncue
    I had a vehicle who's caliper worked the same way. I can't remember if it was the BMW or the Supra. Probably the Beemer as it is Germain, the same as the VW. Dick
  9. rhncue
    Any flexible brake hose or any hose that will resist brake fluid, such as neoprene will work. There is no pressure on that hose. It is just a gravity feed from the reservoir to the master. Dick :)
  10. rhncue
    I just called that company to see about getting some information on that HID system such as does it have a high and low beam. They told me yes but that only the low beam was HID and the high beam was just a standard Halogen. I told them that that sounded backwards as when I need the most light, I have my high beams on. Anyway, they said that their Bi-X or something like that has the HID system on both beams and it is 30.00 more at 99.95. Still very cheap if it adds more light. It also is only 35 watt which would really help me as I have a ton of extra lights on my bike. I may order one next week. Does anyone have this system on their bike? Dick :)
  11. rhncue
    I got over 22,000 miles on my last Elite 11 rear tire. I've got close to 29,000 on the front and it's still in use. I put the Elite 111 on the rear but they don't have one for the front. I've read to many times that the 404's don't hold up so I'm not getting one of them. With the cost of mounting and balancing I would much rather spend on a high dollar tire that will last awhile between changings. I was at Rick Hafferkamps last week and he recommended the Avon as a replacement as the tire design very much is like the Elite 111. Dick
  12. rhncue
    I just put new Progressives in both the front forks and on the rear shock. i already had Progressives in the front and thought they had went bad but actually it was the rear spring giving such a rough ride. Made all the difference in the world. I got them from Rick Hafferkamp at: http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Dick :)
  13. rhncue
    Agree! These bikes gas foul the plugs easily and once wet, they usually need to be replaced. Dick
  14. rhncue
    A couple of weeks ago I put in a new set of Progressive springs in the front forks and purchased one for the rear shock. Some showed an interest in how the rear spring would affect the ride. Well the new rear spring is on the bike and it makes a huge difference in the ride. The directions from Progressive say that you only need about half as much air on the rear with this new spring. Well, my air compressor doesn't work so even though there is no pressure on the shock it still rides 10 times better than before the spring change. Wish I had done it 10 years ago. I got the front and rear spring from Rick Hafferkamp at Buckeye Precision. He had them in stock at the time. Rick also installed the rear spring for me also at a very reasonable price. If you need parts, or if you are in the Cincinnati area and need work, Rick is the man to see. Very knowledgeable on these bikes and his prices are hard to beat. He can be reached here: http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Dick :)
  15. rhncue
    Very interesting read. I was wondering right from the beginning of this thread why not go completely with the V-max heads and TCI or even a complete V-max engine swap instead of just the carburation. It was answered in the last paragraph though. I just feel that my bike has plenty enough power for a touring bike but if I wanted to soup it up into something special then I would have to go all the way. Dick :)
  16. rhncue
    I got my wires and plugs from Buckeye Performance and he was much cheaper than e-bay. I don't know if Buckeye is cheaper than NAPA or not but I get as many parts as I can from Rick as he is very helpful and having a couple of these bikes himself, he knows what to look for and his prices are always cheaper than the Yamaha dealer. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/ Dick
  17. rhncue
    Actually, this wire wasn't in the bikes in the beginning. The stators started to overheat and burn up so Yamaha started putting these in and offering them for the earlier models. I bought one on e-bay one time for my bike, an 83. Without the wire the upper part of the stator gets no cooling oil run over it so that's where they overheat and then short. Dick
  18. rhncue
    E-snipe is the only way that I will bid on e-bay. If you just put in bids others do the same and the competition starts, often culminating in a price that you could have purchased new at. I once seen a new windshield go for over 250.00 with over 20 bids. At the time, they could be bought new from Yamaha for right at a 100.00. I use E-snipe and enter a price that I would be willing to pay for that item and if I get it fine, if not then that's fine also. I've won many auctions that way. Yesterday I got both front turn signal assemblies for a first gen for 17.53. I've seen these go as high as 50.00 for one. I also got out bid on a set of forks yesterday. I had a e-snipe bid of 126.53 and some one had a proxy for a higher amount. Oh well. Dick :)
  19. rhncue
    I already had Progressive springs in the tubes. I put them in around 2000 or 2001. I thought that they had wore so I ordered new ones without checking the oil in the tubes. When I went to replace them I found one side low on oil and the other side almost empty. This was my real problem. I went ahead and put the new ones in anyway even though the set that was in the tubes were not damaged. My rear mono-shock holds no air and it's spring is shot. it bottoms out constantly and probably my biggest problem as far as the rough ride goes. I rode the bike for about a 100 miles last night trying to determine if it is the front or back that feels so rough. I got a new Progressive spring for the rear but I haven't had time to put it in. I'm hoping that it makes a big difference once I get it installed. Dick
  20. rhncue
    I just loosened the pinch bolts and axle. It still wouldn't budge until I raised and lowered it a couple of times then suddenly they collapsed as they should. I'm going to put in the right amount of oil and adjust the axle and pinch bolts a little at a time working the tubes up and down to eliminate any binding that may have occurred in the past that has been causing this very rough ride. Thanks again for the pinch bolt tip. I was really not into pulling the wheel and trying to move the tubes one at a time as the fender, bumper, calipers, disk covers all have to be removed and are a pain getting all realigned. Dick
  21. rhncue
    The legs look fully extended, they won't collapse. I don't have the wheel off. I did lossen the Super Brace as the directions that came with the Progressive springs says this is a major cause of forks not operating correctly. I will go out right now and loosen the pinch bolt and see if this has any affect. Thanks, Dick
  22. rhncue
    A week or so ago I put in new Progressive springs even though upon measuring I found that my old ones weren't bad. However when I put in the oil I put in to much as I put in 5.5 inch from the top of the tube but with the forks extended instead of collapsed. I just went out and pulled the springs and drained some oil to correct my mistake but when I tried to collapse the tubes they won't move. I have the bike in the air on a jack with the springs out but when I lower it to the ground they don't collapse at all. I weigh close to 300 lbs and I know this bike rides very roughly. I rebuilt the front forks with new seals and bushings about two years ago but something is amiss. When I get on the bike, as heavy as I am, it doesn't feel that the forks collapse at all. What's up? Dick
  23. rhncue
    Boy, did I screw up. I put progressive springs in my 83 around 7 or 8 years ago. The bike has been bottoming out and sitting lower than it should so I got some new Progressives last week for both front and back. I screwed up there as the old ones were the exact same length as the new ones. Oh well. I drained the legs and one side was low on oil and the other side barely had any oil at all in it. I thought I followed the directions for installing the Progressives and filled the legs to 5.5 inch from the top, put in new springs and put the rest back together and took a ride. It rides very smoothly unless I run over a sewer lid or such and then it's as if it bottoms out. Still a pretty rough ride. Upon reading these replies I see that I made a major BooBoo. I never compressed the forks. I put fluid in 5.5 inch from the top with the legs extended! No wonder it is such a rough ride. No where for the oil to go. I was wondering why it took more than a quart to fill both sides when the directions called for less than 14oz. per leg. I'll have to go drain and refill the forks later this afternoon. I think I've become completely senile when I don't comprehend the difference between compressed and extended. Dick :rotf:
  24. rhncue
    Mine does the same thing. I changed the shock but it never helped. I'm pretty sure it is the line going to my shock or the connections. If it was the air release solenoid in the compressor I think the front would leak down also. I've got to tear into mine probably Sat. anyway as I bought a new Progressive spring for the shock and I want to install it. Dick
  25. rhncue
    I haven't started my bike since the last of September. I went out last week, put on the choke and cranked for around 20 seconds in 40 degree weather and the bike fired up and ran. Best battery I've ever had. Dick
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