Jump to content

Caj

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Caj

  1. Caj
    As I continue to research the problem, I'm starting to believe the "speedo tuner" is the culprit.
  2. Caj
    While this is a little off topic, it still is in the ballpark. I replaced the rear tire on my 2009 RSV with a car tire of a smaller diameter. This threw the speedo off by about 9 mph, so I ordered a speed tune module to correct the speed display. Now, my turnsignal auto cancel doesn't work. Suggestions? and no, I'm not changing the tire. I'm very pleased with the results except for this issue.
  3. Caj
    OK, folks, I've been reading all the info I can find on lowering the RSV and one thing that happened to me that I don't see mentioned here is bottoming out. I put the baron's kit on the rear of m '09 and thought I'd found the solution to being vertically challenged. Went on a trip to Memphis and then a one-day ride on my return. On that ride, I had a blowout on the rear tire. Upon investigating, I found some significant gouging in the rear tire obviously from bottoming out. I must say, it was all 2-up riding. I have the rear shock maxed out and am running the stock size AVON Venom X tire on the rear. My solution now is to remove the lowering kit and try a lower profile tire. Any comments or suggestions?
  4. Caj
    What size tire did you go with?
  5. Caj
    OK, guys, got her back together, went around the block and all seems fine. I'll take her out on the highway after I clean up my garage mess. Now for a few notes to the novice: DO NOT OPERATE THE CLUTCH LEVER WITHOUT THE PRESSURE PLATE INSTALLED!!!!!!! I did this and then couldn't understand why the clutch lever wouldn't move. What I did in essence, was extended the pushrod to its full travel, so it had no where to go when I pulled the lever. The solution I found was to remove the short pushrod and ball bearing. Then I took a small blade screwdriver, and with the bleeder open, applied gentle pressure to the long pushrod. It moved approximately 1/4". I tightened the bleeder, reinstalled everything and VIOLA! (Yes I know it should be spelled "VOILA") the clutch worked as designed. DO NOT STAND THE BIKE UPRIGHT WITHOUT PUTTING THE CLUTCH COVER BACK ON. I did this to level the master reservoir. I immediately had a puddle of oil under the bike. Hence, the statement above about cleaning up my mess. IF YOU REMOVED THE LEFT ENGINE COVER TO BLEED THE SYSTEM, MAKE SURE YOU REINSTALL THE COVER BEFORE STARTING THE BIKE. Doing so will result in building pressure in the cooling system and blowing out one of the rubber thread inserts and allowing coolant to come gurgling out the hole. Refer to cleaning up my garage mess above. Many thanks to all who helped with their suggestions. I hope these tips help the next novice to avoid my OH Sh*ts!!
  6. Caj
    Here's a TIP, NEVER squeeze the Clutch Lever with the Pressure Plate Retaining Bolts removed. You will be removing the Clutch basket to reinstall the Clutch Push Rod If you do! Now you tell me, LOL. I'll give it a recheck tomorrow. Thanks.
  7. Caj
    OK, since Barnett is on winter hiatus, I muddled thru and am 99% sure I got it right. The "different" friction plate goes in, then the spacer, and then the clutch plate, all held in by the wire. After all is said and done, I installed the new pressure plate and the clutch handle wouldn't budge. I bled the line down, filling with new fluid. Still no help. Since I'm only a rookie mechanic, here's my theory on how the clutch system works. Please point out any errors in my thinking. Pull the lever-pressures up the system, pushing out on the "plunger" which provides enough pressure to move the pressure plate outward, releasing the pressure on the clutch disks themselves. Assuming this theory is correct, I left the bleeder open and squeezed the handle. I got fluid out of the bleeder. I closed the bleeder, squeezed the handle, and it was back to no response. It would appear my problem is somewhere in the slave cylinder, Yes? I think that even if the plates are in the wrong sequence, or even removed completely, the plunger should still move when the handle is squeezed, correct? And yes, the little steel ball is still at the end of the plunger. I would appreciate any assistance.
  8. Caj
    That was my next move. I'll post what I find out. Thanks for the suggestion.
  9. Caj
    Greetings guys, its been a while for me. I've uninstalled my stock clutch on my 09 RSV. When unpacking the barnett parts, I found a little slip of paper that reads as follows: NOTE: One or more of the friction plates in this kit is a different size than the others (Larger Inside Diameter, Wider Drive Tabs, Etc.) Refer to your service manual for proper installation of all plates. My problem is (besides not keeping the old ones in order) in your very informative tutorial you don't mention this, nor is there any reference to it in the shop manual. Since I don't want to have to redo this job, I'd appreciate some help. Thanks, Caj
  10. Caj
    I took it one step further. I got some 1" diameter shrink tubing insulation from harbor freight and cut it into approximately 3" lengths. I worked it onto the connectors, (its tight but it will fit). Once I had the connector plugged in I heated the tubing and shrank it to the connector. Felt pretty solid.
×
×
  • Create New...