jdog910

i was looking at the maps i had and the one had input 2 set to kill switch, the one i had loaded had both set to off, so i loaded the first one and SPARK!!!! wow i have been fighting this thing for a year now and thats all it took??? THANKS you guys!! i never thought to look at the interlock, still dont know how it switched it self off though, but ill take what i can get.

where in the software are the interlocks located? I checked the sidestand, and pulling the clutch in. i got spark by firing manually in the software, so i must have power to the coils and they must be good. thanks again!

yes it worked great, i havent checked the tach. ran great when i parked it for the winter, i just hard wired the TCI connectors and added the chevy vac sensor.

anyone have an idea? thanks!

i have an ignitech TCI, Im sure someone can answer this, i have no spark when cranking, i can fire the ignition manually using the ignitech software and get spark at the plugs. is there anywhere i can see the pick up coil signal? I see it displays polarity, and it does go from red to green when i crank it, so i assume it is seeing something correct? if that is correct, is there anything that would stop it from sending the fire signal to the plugs? safety switch? or something? Im at the end of my rope trying to figure this out. alittle background of when this started was, my connector from the TCI to wiring harness was loose, so i hard wired it, i did one wire at a time, so im sure i didnt miss wire, but...Thanks in advance for your help!!

thanks guys for all your help!

I noticed the rubber plugs were loose. ( i could turn them around with a screw driver) not dry rotted or anything, but was wondering if that is the way they are supposed to be? if not, any idea of where to purchase those? Thanks guys!!

if your looking for diaphrams for cheep http://jbmindustries.com/index.html only 25$ and they work great! You just check the diameter of the carbs and send it to him.

no, its a pressurized system, it will only activate when there needs to be fuel pumped to the carbs.

anyone think the pick up coils are bad with the readings i got? I dont want to replace them if thats not the issue. thanks!

if you have a timing light that works great to see if spark is present, ive used it many times. beets taking things apart to check

OK here are my results, I got 69-71.3 ohms on all the test points, the manual says 93-126 at 68 degrees, its about 90 today. you would think if they were bad i would get a really low or really high number? what do you think?

no i thought the RW had 12v only when the run switch was on, when i have the key off its at 0v. thanks for the help so far, i will test the coils thanks!

is there any way to test the pick up coil?

ok, here is the issue, I get spark once in a while (using plug grounded to engine) then there is nothing. I dont touch anything, just the start button, maybe 1 time in 5 i get spark.(doesnt matter what cylinder i try) I have checked the side stand wire 12v on RW wire to all coils (all though it stays on even when run switch is to off position, I thought it wasnt supposed to?) I have a ingntech TCI so i assume thats not the issue hard wired the pick up coil connector by left knee, no change the fuse holder has been changed a few years ago so thats not original Anything else I could be missing?? or could check? Im at the end of my rope, The bike always runs perfect, the only thing i did was before the riding season started i hooked up the GM air sensor and changed the map accordingly. I disconnected the sensor and put the original map back in, and still no change. thanks in advance guys, you always have great ideas!