grubsie

Call me ignorant if you want, other people do so feel free, but a shock leaking oil would have nothing to do with the bike feeling lower or scraping the kickstand. The oil part of the shock only deals with the dampening of the shock. The seat height is affected by the a few factors. 1) The spring is a constant so that can be ruled out. 2) The air pressure could be an issue if it is leaking. 3) Long winters affecting rider and passenger weight that can be somewhat compensated by air pressure but I am in no way eluding to what you are eluding to.

Sounds like the 97 Road King I had. Replaced the lifters, cam, pushrods and rocker assemblies. Even had the heads redone with new valves, springs and guides and that noise never went away. Other than the noise the bike ran very well. My concern like bongobobny in the video is the "vapor?" coming out the left side exhaust. You are wise beyond your years there pucster. I just sold my 2013 Ultra Classic today. Finally. Been on the market for 2 months. Wanted it out of my sight shortly after I bought it last fall. Waited until this spring to sell it. I had it priced $1000.00 lower than any other 2103 Ultra Classic on Craigs List. Mine only had 8700 miles on it compared to the others on CL with many more miles on them and it was in mint condition. The guy that bought the bike was the only person to come and see it since I started advertising it. I wound up selling it to him for an additional $500.00 off. I just love losing money! The market IS saturated. I see the same bikes for sale over and over for months on end. All types, not just HD's, but the HD market is way more saturated than the other brands.

2 Filters! You had the purest gas to ever enter the combustion chambers of a RSV.

Here's the upgraded version of 40171. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550 I used the MR Gasket 42's that I got at Autozone, So far, So good. There's a writeup in the tech section on how to set it up from "djh3". He used the supplied fuel filter and made a custom mounting bracket. I didn't use the filter and extended the inlet tube tip so it was very close to lining up with the outlet tip. This allowed me to use the stock mounting bracket. I also relocated a new clear fuel filter to under the seat between the gas tank and battery for easier access. Had to pick up some 5/16 fuel line for it. Here's the writeup. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86265-Mr-Gasket-Fuel-Pump-Conversion

If you don't like the looks of the RSV handlebar weights, you could use the Road Star weights. They are interchangeable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-ROAD-STAR-XV1700A-SILVERADO-04-09-BAR-END-HANDLEBAR-WEIGHT/173860311349?fits=Model%3ARoad+Star&hash=item287ae1d135:g:LjUAAOSwk-9bs6I9

Nothing worse than intermittent electrical problems. Seeing that you get the power back when using a screwdriver or wiggling or pulling wires in the area you described, I would follow the all wires to their connections, open the connectors and dielectric grease all of them for starters. Check the pins before adding the grease. Check the the fuse connections and the main fuse just rear of the fuse area behind the black plastic cover. Something in that area of the bike is not making a good connection. Also check the wires for chaffing. Over the winter, I removed all the plastic on my RSV and also removed the seat and gas tank. I cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner and compressed air then dielectric greased every connection. Also split the handlebar controls and used contact cleaner and compressed air there. Not going to have to worry about electrical connections for a long while I hope. It's amazing how much dirt and corrosion accumulates in electrical connections over the years.

Happy Birthday Puc!

Just got back from a 50 mile spin. Bike handled flawlessly. Very comfortable in the corners. No wobble running the bike to 70mph and letting slow all the way down to 10mph with no hands on the handlebars. Very happy. She's a keeper right where I set it. The flop test. Very familiar with it. Done it several times over the years. Also adjust the way Freebird describes. If I was just checking the front end, this would have been the way I would have done it. Seeing that I repacked the dry bearings with moly grease, that wasn't an option this time. I don't know why Mamma Yamaha is so stingy on grease on the bearings. Grease must be very expensive in Japan.

I believe the 2.2 is is wrong. Here's why. The Road Star uses the the exact same bearings as the RSV and the V-Star also uses the 37 initial and 13 final torque. Even the Goldwing has final torque settings between 18-24 ft-lbs when upgraded to tapered bearings. In all my many years twisting wrenches on bikes, I have never torqued steering bearings anywhere near as low as the 2.2 in the RSV manual. I tried the 2.2 after the initial 37 tonight on my RSV after re-greasing the bearings and the front end was loose as a goose. No way the 2.2 is anywhere near correct. I made an executive decision and set it at 13 ft-lbs then double and triple checked the setting while moving the the front back and forth and wound up at 12 ft-lbs. It felt pretty darn good at that setting so I buttoned everything back up and will test it tomorrow, and I strongly believe no further changes will be needed. I did use moly grease though.

Here's some on ebay. Just cut it and touch up the raw end with aluminum paint to prevent rust. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=royal+star+venture+shifter&_sacat=10063

Thoughts and prayers to you and your entire family Puc.

I'm adding to this thread since I am about to check the torque setting on my 2008 RSV. The final torque of 2.2 ft-lbs final has me baffled. I just re-torqued the steering head bearings on my 2009 Road star which states 13 ft-lbs final. 2.2 seems to be awfully light to me. Why would a heavy bike like the RSV require less torque than the lighter Road Star?

When they removed my pacer, they left the wire in. Was told it was because scar tissue wraps around it. The longer they are in place, the more scar tissue.

Finally got to get my first ride yesterday after our dinner company finally left. Was around 5PM when I jumped on the bike, it was around 50 degrees but breezy so felt cooler. By the time I got home around 8PM it was down in the 30's and quite chilly. the last 30 minutes of the ride, all i could think of was heat, any heat, anywhere I could get it. I know it's only getting warmer, but I am thinking about next fall when we plan on doing more riding than past years, so starting now will allow me to pick at and have it ready for fall. Thinking about it today, I decided to ask all you guru's here about heat stuff. The 2 must haves are heated grips or gloves and heated jacket or vests under jacket or 2 if my bride is with me. With that: Where do I steal the amperage for this? I read somewhere that some power can be taken from disconnecting the carb heaters since we can get by without them? Planning on going LED on headlight and passing light. I am thinking heated vests or something else that could be worn under jackets. Any suggestions? Heated gloves or heated grips which is better and any recommendations of either? Anything else I should consider?

I don't know how common it is but they used the same technique 40 years when they installed mine. They also kept me awake when they pulled it several years ago. That was more uncomfortable than when they installed it. I asked them if they could install a zipper so I wouldn't have to go through this again in the event that I will need another one some time in the future. They didn't listen to me.

That's not a little difference on a float. It's more like a mile.

Good to hear that everything is good. Did you ask what brand tuner they used? I hope it's the newest Power Commander.

Here in New Hampshire it's a piece of cake. Any motor vehicle that is older than 2000 does not require a title. For any vehicle 2000 or newer and ss long as you have a title, all you have to do is take it to your town hall along with the bill of sale and register it. No questions asked. In my small town, it tales all of 10 minutes. If you do not have a title for a vehicle 2000 or newer you simply have the police come by (free of charge) and they check the vehicle ID information and type of vehicle it is and they issue you a copy of the report. You take this report along with the bill of sale and the recent registration if you have it, go to the town hall, pay a small fee and they submit for a title to the state offices. It takes anywhere from 30 to 60 days to get the new title if the vehicle is legit. Takes closer to 30 days if you have the most recent registration from the PO. If you have a vehicle that is older than 2000, all you need is the title or the PO's recent registration along with the bill of sale and you are registered in 10 minutes. If you have a vehicle older than 2000 with no reg or title and as long as you have a bill of sale, you have the police stop by (free of charge) and check the vehicle ID and what it is and they issue you a copy of the report. Take the report and your bill of sale to the town hall and your registered again, in 10 minutes. I do this constantly with early 50's and 60's motorcycles that I restore. I do it before I restore them just in case they come back after the police report goes to the state offices and there's a discrepancy. It's kind of funny with the police checking these old bikes. They have no idea what and where they are looking. I have to point it all out to them. They used to by now though as they have been doing this with for years. The only thing that sucks though is you forfeit any money you spent on registering the vehicle if they find out it's stolen if you register as soon as you get the police report instead of waiting 30 days after the report. Of course, you could lose the money you paid to the person you bought it from also I guess. Thankfully, it's never happened to me.

I mix it 50/50 with some good gas and add a little seafoam and run it in my lawn mower. Those good ole Briggs an Strattons will run on just about anything. I have even thrown old 2 stroke mix in them that I mixed with some good gas and they just keep on running. Best to burn the 2 stroke in them around 6-7 at night. No mosquitoes after that! Cut my grass all season with old gas.

Hmmm. My biggest concern is the longevity of this pump. It's gotta last longer than the stock one, Right? Am I reading the specs wrong? It's stated that this pump prevents vapor lock. This is the description over at Summit Racing: Brand: Mr. Gasket Manufacturer's Part Number: 42S Part Type: Fuel Pumps, Electric External Product Line: Mr. Gasket Micro Electronic Fuel Pumps Summit Racing Part Number: MRG-42S UPC: 084041996287 Free Flow Rate: 42 gph/159 lph Maximum Pressure (psi): 2 to 3.5 psi Inlet Size: 1/8 in. NPT Inlet Quantity: One Inlet Attachment: Female threads Outlet Size: 1/8 in. NPT Outlet Quantity: One Outlet Attachment: Female threads Quantity: Sold individually. In-Store Pickup: Choose In-store pick-up (OH, NV, GA, TX) on our web site. These Mr. Gasket micro electronic fuel pumps are compatible with gasoline or diesel (depending on the application) based fuels and additives. They feature solid-state, worry-free electronics and eliminate vapor lock and flooding. Mr. Gasket micro electronic fuel pumps are great as stand-alone or booster pumps, are self-priming, and have a simple 2-wire design. They work with 12 V negative-ground systems and include mounting hardware. Mr. Gasket micro electronic fuel pumps will supply adequate fuel, time and time again. I was able to use the stock clamp because I didn't use the filter that came with the pump (have one under the driver seat just behind the tank) and used a 3" brass nipple with a union and fuel line fitting so the tips of both fuel nipple are almost even. The stock clamp fits tightly even though you see gaps in the pics I am posting and gap in the clamp for the black plastic extension on the stock pump clamps very nicely on the brass fuel pipe I put on the mister gasket. I did this because I am going to replace the points on the stock pump and use it as a spare and wanted it to be plug and play. For part of the plug and play, instead of splicing the stock pump connector onto the MR Gasket, I cut the 2 pin clip off the old pump and soldered on waterproof 2 female pin connectors on to it. (like old hondas and such used)The plugged it back into the the one on the bike. Then I soldered on the waterproof male pins onto the wires of the stock pump and Mr Gasket pump so that either one can plug into the female pin connectors that are on the stock 2 pin connector.

Does this pump stop gas flow when the bike is not running or do I have to get into the habit shutting off the petcock? Anyone had one of these pumps fail? I switched to it because the points on my OEM pump are already pitted pretty bad and this 2008 RSV has just under 24K on it.

Hey Puc, It was just the opposite for me. Since I was young and very active, the pacer barely fired. It would only fire when sitting around. My a-fib always kicks in when I am in a rested state although very, very seldom. The same symptoms which caused me to get the pacer in the 1st place. My original cardiologist passed away several years ago and I met a new one at a local hospital who wanted to test the state of the pacer because it was the original and very old. Funny, because it was so old, they had to go into the storage unit in the hospital to find the unit used for this pacemaker. They dusted if off, fired it up and discovered that it was basically brand new. That's how seldom it fired over the years. They decided to remove it and just try the more modern medications available which didn't exist back when I originally got the pacer. They left the wire in so as to avoid any problems with scar tissue buildup. I am on 20mg Flecanide twice daily and a baby aspirin.and it's been working fine. I still go into a-fib every once in a great while, maybe twice a year at most, but me getting my heart rate up takes care of it. I keep myself on the go constantly which seems to help avoid a-fib. Still have the pacer. Keep it in my office. Here's a pic:

Just trying to alleviate any concerns. A pacemaker is a good thing for heart beat irregularity. Trust me, I know. I am 61 now but had a pacemaker inserted when I was 22 due to something called sic sinus syndrome which was causing my heart to drop to 20 beats a minute. Apparently what was happening was my heart was beating, then it would just sit there and just flex a little, then beat again over and over. Kind of scary as I was almost passing out, couldn't see straight or focus on anything. Boston Hospitals determined that the best solution was a pacemaker. In fact, from what I understand, I was major discussion in medical lectures in the Boston hospitals because of my age, the diagnosis and treatment. I was kind of like a unicorn of sorts back then. Anyway, pacemaker was inserted and life has been good since. It may feel a little strange at 1st as sometimes you can feel the pacemaker kicking in but you will get used to it. Life can go on like normal. You can do everything you have ever done no matter how physical. I raced motocross before and after the pacemaker. Worked in construction, played sports etc. Nothing has to change in your life. A pacemaker simply controls your heart beat when needed. You are correct about needing medication also to avoid atrial fib, but it's not a big deal and it does not affect your liver function. Funny quick story about a-fib. Quite a few years back, I went into a-fb and they were going to shock my heart to get me out of it. I had been moved from one hospital department to the other and at each dept., they would ask me why I was there. I was growing more irritated by the minute up to the moment I got to the place where they were going to do the shock. The anesthesiologist asked why I was there. I flipped out on him. I jumped out of the bed with all my wires attached and started yelling at him and ranting and raving when all of a sudden, my wife noticed on the monitor that I was back in normal rhythm. Since that moment, there have been a few times that I went into atrial fib. You know it when it happens. I decide to try something. I remembered that moment in the hospital when I flipped out. It caused my heart rate to increase which in turn got me back into normal rythm. So what I tried and will do from now on is to do something to get my heart rate up. I find the most effective thing is going up and down stairs non-stop as many times as I can. Always works. Told my doctor at Brigham and Williams in Boston about what I was doing when going into a-fib a few years back. He was curious, and has been suggesting cautiously it to some of his better health patients and so far it seems to work for them. I am not telling you to run a marathon if you go into a-fib, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind. You will be fine with you "Tuner". In fact, probably better. Hope to hear how things go over time. Pulling for you.

My hat's off to you for the engine swap. I'm not even talking about the peripherals like exhaust, carburetors etc. I am talking about once unbolted, actually pulling the engine then fitting the new one and getting it lined up with the bolt holes. I did an engine swap on a Vstar 1100 a few years back by myself. I thought that engine was ridicously heavy, but I don't think it is anywhere near as heavy as the RSV engine. I used a bike jack with several different wood block combinations before I could get things lined up. Started a 4:00PM with a complete bike. Stripped everything off, swapped engines and was back together and running just before midnight. I'm sure that wouldn't have been the case with a 1300 RSV engine swap. You done good!

Your RSV sure looks nekkid in that picture. Mine looked just like it about 2 months ago when I removed my forks to add spacers to the damper tubes to lower the front 1". What weight oil did you use? I found 10wt performs best for me. I think it's a conspiracy with the fork oil quantity. It comes in 16oz bottles but you need 18oz in each fork. So you have to buy 3 bottles. What the heck are we suppose to do with the leftover 12oz? I used mine up using it a bar oil for my chainsaw. Better than leaving it on a shelf collecting dust. I stuck with the stock bars and used the 1 1/2" risers. I find it very comfortable and I'm only 5', 8". The spacers along with the Flanders Bars would have brought the controls too far back for me. You must have really short arms. I assume you are going to have to use longer cables with this mod. My stock cables only worked after re-routing them. Glad to hear everything went well. Now your almost ready for riding season.