Geobob

Thanks for the input. This is a big help. I guess that also answers the question regarding having to remove the protective goo that appears to have been poured all over the top of the board. I sure am glad I have left this board sitting right here on my desk for the last month waiting to get around to solder up. Something tells me this is going to be a bit more delicate than sweating copper pipes together under the sink. I think I can imagine testing for continuity between the exposed lead on the diode and someplace on the green section it is "soldered to". I assume you can probably just use that very sharp pointed lead like on a test light to get through the coating down into the copper. Something tells me that trying to hold a test lead on that little exposed lead on the diode on one side of the board and stabbing the other lead into the copper on the other side, is going to be more difficult than sounds. I definitely would not have known about the damaged opening. I just figured a glob of solder would make more than enough of a contact. I can see that testing is a really good idea. Now on another subject. I finally finished the valve adjustment. If you look closely at the picture I posted of the page of notes you will see all the mistakes. I think it took a while before I realized there is a difference between the exhaust and the intake. I thought I had everything measured and all the correct shim sized that I needed. I did not. As I went back through and recheck the clearance on each of the valves I caught a few mistakes. I think I had to make three trips to the local shop to find shims that were not in the kit Skydoc sent me. Fortunately he was patient with me and let me hold on to the tools and kit a bit longer than normal. So now we just have to finagle the covers back on without tearing the gaskets off. I glued the gasket to the cover while I have read that others have put the gasket on the head. I took a lot off to get to them so I hope they will go back on without much blood loss. And yes I think I drew blood twice during the valve adjustment. It has taken me so long that now its getting really cold in the garage. I am thinking of getting a hot plate to lay my tools on so they are nice and warm and I went out an bought a 100,000 btu torpedo heater. Now I just have to find someplace the sells Kerosene. When did the world stop using kerosene. I remember it being sold at a lot of gas stations. I guess that was before all the old tanks came out. I guess the stations could not justify putting a new one back in.

Now that might take some more explanation. I am looking closely at the board (as in the green and black sections) and just don't see what is catching your eye. I am glad you pointed this out because I was about to drop some solder on the back side of the board and glue it back together. That was my question, what is recommended for sealing it back up. I was thinking some Red RTV silicon that I used to glue the valve cover gasket on with. I was going to seal the seam and where I cut the case. I was also going to relocate to on top of the air box. So let assume the pad is damaged. I solder the diodes on. How would you test to see if I have continuity. Also do I need to peal all the rubbery protectant off the top of the board before soldering the new diodes in place .

That is a nice looking 82. Those were the days, when you could buy them for 1000. I picked up a couple at that price. This is exactly why I an debating weather or not to sell my 82.

Did I understand you correctly, you got offered or you sold this bike for $16k. How long ago was that. I see the condition and mileage but did not think they were selling that high.

This might answer your question and get the conversation started I have had my CBXs longer than my Venture and the forum support is very good like it is for the Venture. I cannot see owning a CBX without the support of the ICOA and others forums. I have my 82 up for sale on craigslist and cycle trader. I hate to sell it but I had not been riding it. I put a built up 79 motor in an 82 frame and it is really a nice ride that draws a lot of attention if you go anywhere with it. I have been building the twin turbo for over 10 years now and since I got it running and on the road I have decided to focus on it and sell the 82. At least that was the plan. If no one want to buy the 82 I really won't be that disappointed now that it is back on the road also. It sat for 10 year until last summer when I decided it needed to be sold. I pulled all the parts together and got it running with the hot motor and 6 into 1 pipe and now I am thinking twice about selling it.

Thanks for the help. After reading your description of how to orient the diodes think I have it correct. Did you look at the close up photo of the one diode. Is so, are we both looking at the same idea?

So time for an update. Clearly I don't work to fast since I am not home all week. I got my valves all checked and as far as I can tell it looks like a need 3 (275s) and 1 (270). None of them were that far out. A couple of the intakes were .09 and a number of them had shims that were in between sizes. I honestly have no recollection of having done this 10 years ago when I did the gaskets but I have to think that I would have. Maybe they were all withing spec? The real reason for this post is to confirm I put the diodes in correctly. I did not recall reading that there was a right way and a wrong way to put them in. After some checking with a multi meter and looking on line I confirmed what most of you guys probably already know. So the photo shows some of the new diodes in place. I have not soldered them in yet because I wanted to be sure. The old blue and white ones appear to have the anode (positive site) colored white and the symbol on the board seems to confirm that. Unfortunately the bag of diodes I purchased dose not indicate which end is which. I checked with the multi meter and I get a reading of some kind of resistance in one direction and nothing in the other. Matching this up with the blue and white ones I took off suggest the end of the new diode with the light grey or white band on it is the negative side. If anyone can confirm from the photos and my description that i have this right, feel free to let me know. I'd hate to have to remove them since getting the old ones off was enough work. To anyone reading this who has not done this, yes it is relatively easy but don't be fooled into thinking it is not tedious. Getting the soldering iron on one side and something like needle nose pliers on the other side to pull the wire through the board is not as simple as it sounds. The glue covering everything on the one side does not make things any easier either. After you get the old one off you then have to clear the solder out of the hole. I purchased a solder vacuum thing assuming it would make things easy but it did not work like it did on the utube video. I almost resorted to drilling them out but I could not find or feel like looking for those really fine drill bits I know I have somewhere. So here is what it looks like.

Where did I ever get the idea of grounding it. Great, thanks. So whats the deal with the headlight. That sounded a bit more involved and since I have it up on the lift and the faring off, now would be the time to put in the light. Actually the single beam LED I have left over from my first purchase is so bright I could probably just put it in and never need the high beam. I guess I could put it in just to see if it fits.

I am pretty sure that no present Venture owner would have said "why did they do that" if they built their new touring bike around the new Vmax motor. I really, really want to hear the reason why they did not do this. In defense of the designers, I have ridden and liked several big V twins and presently own a Vstar 1300 and love the bike. I have been seriously considering a Victory Vision and for the price difference between a new Venture and a used Vision I probably will go with the vision. This is my point, build a touring bike based on a Vtwin and you have a all kinds of competition. Build the bike around the new Vmax motor and you have a touring bike with a power plant that would inspire a sport bike. Oh ya, they already did that 30 years ago. Did they forget how we got here. I just don't get it.

It is already blinking from the battery water level warning. I think I have tried to ground that probe lead to get that light to go out a long time ago and gave up. Now I just don't even notice the warning light on the dash

Sounds like someone know something I need to know. I just posted a thread about the Led Head Light conversion. I sounds like it is not going to be a simple plug and play. Are taliking about getting the computer to stop telling me my head light or high bean is out after I install the LED

I was looking at an LED headlight recommendation i got from here a couple of years ago and now I cannot find it again but it is probably out dated. As many might have noticed the price of an LED replacement bulb, single or duel filament (if that is what you would call it?) have come way down. I just put a pair in my Freightliner that cost less than the regular lights. I think they were around $40 for the pair. So now that I have the bike on the stand and its getting dark out earlier I thought it was time to replace the bulb with an LED. While I know most of the plugs and housing are somewhat standard most of the products only list what cars they are compatible. So can anyone on here speak from experience as to an LED they purchased recently that they can recommend. I can speak for the "Nineo" brand I put in my truck. The were inexpensive, simple to put in and the company replace both of them after one went bad. I could not find a high/low beam bulb from them otherwise I would have just taken a chance. But since I need to shop I thought it wise to ask here and see what you guys might have first hand experience with.

thank, I am gathering that after reading some of the other threads related to the TCI repair. And excuse the photo of my leg. I did not see that one show up when I was attaching the boards. Boy that could have been much more embarrassing.

Opening or cutting went well. So now I am looking at this. Now I don't have the new diodes in hand so maybe that would make this obvious but I thought I would post the photo and ask anyways since the new diodes are probably a few days out. So you say there are 8 similar or identical electrical components on this board that should be replace to ensure the TCI does not experience a sudden death. I realize it might be hard to explain but if anyone can, I will point out what I think you have explained, mark them and re-post. I suspect some others in the future will benefit from this. In the mean time I do some searching to see if this has already been explained on here somewhere. And for those that are considering pulling the valve covers for gasket replacement and valve adjustment. If you take off most of the obvious things the front just lifted off and the back came out the left side without nearly as much effort as I anticipated. I did take the radiator off while I think you can just pull it forward. I also pulled all the hoses.

You are making this too easy not to do. So if I understand one of the options is to cut the plastic case all the way around down near the plug end so top side of the board can be access. Then glue it back together when I'm done. Option 1 or Option 2

Thanks this what I needed to know. Where was do you order the diodes from.

Before I break something can anyone tell me if there is any reason why I cannot lift this board up now that I taken out all the screws and the four nuts.and does anyone have an exact part number for the diods that I assume are apparent on the other side of this board. I think I have ordered from Mouser electric before based on a recommendation here

You guys are the best, I have to make it to one of your tech parties before we all get to old. So I tested the boost sensor. At first I got 2.17 volts as it should. I pulled a vac with my break bleeder pump up to 60 cm hg (600mm Hg) and the voltage dropped to like .9 or something like that. It definetly did not go up. I tried to retest but after pulling the vac it read 12-13 volt which was the same as the battery I was using. So something shorted out after the test. I tried blowing in the tube to put a positive pressure on it and see if I got any change but nothing. I took the hose apart at the check valve or what ever it is and no difference. I guess this means I need to repair or replace. Are they available and inexpensive these days? I found the write up on repairing so I though I would open it up in the morning just to see what going on in there. The TCI came off with the boost sensor with no problems thank god. I opened it up and so far it just looks like some crusty goo on the back side. I have to take a few more internal screws out to look at the working side. If I can figure out how to post a photo I'll send a photo.

The title of the thread says what I am up to today. Any input will be helpful. A little background first. I have owned and maintained this bike for about 25 years and used this forum with great success in the past. I did some research and determined I probably have a problem with my "boost sensor" and I found the proceedure for repairing it. I am planning on trying that once I get it out. I also have had problems with the bike running on 2 cylinders after it got wet or washed. If I run it long enough it drys out and works fine. I believe I have learned from this forum that my problem is the TCI getting moisture in it. I plan on pulling out, opening it up and baking it. Then sealing it back up with something and relocating it and the boost sensor to probably the inside of the fairing or the top of the air box. The top of the air box sounds easiest but I have not replaced the old fuse holder yet so things are getting a bit ugly under there. So we might go for next to the radio on the right side of the fairing. That might be accessible without pulling the outside fairing panel off. The questions that I still not sure of is, should I just cut the two parts out or try to unscrew them. I am also going to replace the valve cover gaskets. I assume it makes sense to check and adjust valves (85k on the bike). Where is the best place these days to get or exchange shims. I also found a great read from 7VGoose (I think) that covers valve adjustment on a second generation venture. I am assuming it it very similar to with the exception of removing the gas tank. That one throw me. Then I figured out he was talking about a second generation venture LOL. The shop manual does not even address removal of the gas tank on first gen. So the big question is do I really have to remove the carbs or should I remove the carbs. It really looks like a lot of place to have something go wrong. I am kind of like the idea of leaving well enough alone until it has to be delt with. On the other hand if there is some real benefit to do removing them then does the procedure outlined in the write up apply well enough to the first generation venture. Or is there another write up on here that I just have not found. Any help is always greatly appreciated. Bob

I just got off the phone with Works Performance and it does not look good. He informed that because it is such a compact shock in the first place he has nothing to work with. The best he could do is maybe an inch at the seat but the possibility of a poor riding shock is really high. At $1000 it was not something he suggested. We discussed the linkage and he did not think you could do much there either. It is just not a bike that can be lowered other than the seat. I was really hoping something could be done.

That is a Victory Vision. That bike has a seat height of 26.5 inches. If she can ride that I am sure she will enjoy the Venture.This was the BMW GL1600 we test drove. That bike has a nice narrow seat that I think was 28.5 inches

I need to lower a first gen Venture for my wife. I have read through all the old threads and have a few important questions if anyone knows the answer please let know or help me find where to look. 1: Does anyone know what the fork travel is. It looks to only be about 3-4 inches and that means the front fork tube could be slid up 2-3 inches. The air system was removed after adding progressive springs. There also looks like enough room above the top triple clamp but I have not tried it yet. Might loose some plastic parts. If stiffer springs are installed I think I might be able to reduce the fork travel is clearance is an issue after sliding them up further. Has anyone tried this 2: Does anyone know what the rear suspension travel is. From what I have seen, there are no kits available like there is for some other bikes like my Vstar. I have a call into Works Performance to see if I can get them to provide a shock and spring set up that would be height adjustable and maybe have a spring strong enough to handle the load under the possibly shorter travel. This appears to be the only option other than lower profile tires. I have tried riding without air in the stock shock and it was not good. I have a hard time believing that no one has ever tried replacing the rear shock to achieve this. I have also been told that many people are installing air adjustable suspension systems on their bike these days so maybe more options are available than 10 years ago. Other things investigated are lowering and narrowing the seat, Corbin has one with a back rest for only $736. I would rather spend that on the shock. I had the seat on my 88 carved down at Americade about 20 years ago and it works wonderfully. Maybe there is still enough foam in there to take off some more material and get it another inch lower. And yes we have discussed the idea of riding in platform boots but she is not a big fan of Kiss lol.

I installed a new lithium battery yesterday and I now believe my started motor grounding upgrade is working. So far no difficulty with hot starts. I was having a lot of trouble after the starter rewire and could not understand why. I even purchased a four brush starter. My lld battery was definetly the cause since it was actually leaking. I have never seen a batter fail like that.

This what I belived would be the case. I am curious as to why my ground modification did not work. It really did nothing from the beegining. Maybe some how the wires came loose when imput it back together. I sodered the connector and srinck wrapped them. The screws seemed tight, and I ran a second ground from the case to the ground cable on the motor. I am very curious but not enough to dissasemble without a replacement in hand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Starter-VMAX-1200-V-Max-1FK-81800-10-00-Yamaha-/291109473030?hash=item43c77a0b06&vxp=mtr. This was a link to a starter motor for a vmax. It is a new aftermarket part for something like $89. Has anyone tried these new aftermarket products. I know yamaha probably did not make the original so I can't see anything wrong with an aftermarket. I just wonder if anyone has looked inside one and found less than 4 brushes.