Geobob

Did some digging and found both the plug with the 5 wires (2 red and 2 black and one brown) and the three wire plug all white. I read through the shop manual and it clearly says I should have 14 volts and I do not. So it looks like voltage regulator or stater. The test procedure was just confusing as far as where to check resistance. I guess we are in for some more reading of old threads.

Read through this thread and here is my trouble. Hope you guys can help and help soon because we were leaving next in a week for a long trip with the bike. I have noticed the voltage dropping substantially while riding when I hit the breaks or turn on a load like the heated grips or jacket. I pulled the lithium Ion battery out and it showed fully charged after we got home from a long ride today. I have a carbon pile load tester that showed it to be good after putting 130 amp pull for 15-20 seconds. I put a second fully charge 15L battery I had from another bike. It is an AGM battery. I put the digital volt meter on the battery and it showed 12.6 volts. I started the bike and ran it up to 3000 rpms and applied the breaks to light the tail light and place a load on the system. The voltage dropped down to 12.36 slowly over a maybe a minute. The voltage without a load other than the running bike and LED head light was 13.82. That was running it at 3500 rpms and it took a minute or so for it to climb up that high. So what to check or replace next. I already went ahead and ordered a new XTL 18L AGM battery that should be here next friday. One question about that is how tall it that battery. I have my ignition module relocated on top of the battery box and the new fuse block on top of that. This all fits under the cover. The battery I put in to test the system is pretty tall and I am hoping the 18L is not as tall. So do I just buy an new used voltage regulator from Pinwal and hope it gets here by next weekend or just get both the regulator and stator. The bike is ride able now but I expect it will be cold next week and I will want to run my jacket without fear of killing the battery.

Yes Tri-star was around when the VTS was going strong. I purchased on windshield early on and then had a bad crash and purchased a second one sometime in the late 90s maybe. We discussed some of the products I never knew about and the bike in general. I remember I bought the trunk repair plate to save the cracked truck problem. Funny thing was that eventually my entire bottom cracked and needed to be repaired. I also purchased the saddle bag lid retaining straps after the first or second lid came off while rolling. I remember heading back for it an heard the car running over it. Still never put them on. Had them sitting my tool box for a good 15 years. Last year I finally had a lid come off and hit the road again. This time the lid only got scratched up a bit. So now I have the straps on. Kind of convenient not to have to look for a place to set the cover after you take it off. The bike should have come this way from the factory and I should have put the straps on years ago.

I recently contacted Rich Butler about rebuilding my seat. After awhile out conversation got around to my interest in finding one of these old aftermarket windshields. I have asked about these windshields and the company that I thought was something like Star Industries and nobody said anything. I have even expressed an interest in buying another bike if it had one of these windshields. Well you can imagine how floored I was when Rick said that was his company or his and a friends company. What a find. The next question was did "Bills Plastics" still have the pattern. Well it turned out he still had the pattern and was willing to make up a windshield for me. I asked for two LOL. So I am now really never going to be able to sell this bike. That was the one product that I could not replace and it makes the bike different than any other bike out there. I believe this is the widest windshield on any touring bike. I used to think it was a bit large but after 20 some years of riding behind it I am spoiled. Every other bike I get on gets compared to this and many are just to small for me. This new one does not have the vent in it and it turns out that I prefer that way. If you have been looking for one you might be able to get them to make you one or two. I paid Ed (Bills son) $200 each and Rick approximately $50 to $75 to ship. Worth way more than that to me. I can repair a lot on this bike but this was one that would have been very difficult to duplicate.

I did not know that about the different materials between the two parts. My last tire change reveled a seriously worn wheel side so I picked up a newer one. Maybe you can see the difference. I suspect the differential side was just as worn then as it is now. The wheel side was really bad. I replaced a differential years ago because of the same problem. Back then even the used parts were several hundred dollars. As far as grease goes the honda shop that I used to change the last tire noticed the were and sold me some of their moly grease claiming it was a good as it gets. I have loaded it up figuring I would keep and eye on it with every tire change. I have some photos of the dried out looking grease but they actually came out as short videos. The new phone some how decided that was how I wanted to take photos. I think the small amount of play leads to heat build up. Maybe a newer less worn differential along with the wheel side that I have will make it to the next tire change. So any ideas regarding the newer 2nd gen differentials working on the 88 that I have.

Here are the photos. I think this one will post. Been looking for a new differential and based on cost and availability I am leaning towards just picking one up. Maybe and entire swing are set up just experiment with. I cannot remember pulling my drive shaft. I remember it being more difficult than it sounded and I don't know if I ever got it out.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118988[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]118989[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]118990[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]118991[/ATTACH]the grease looked like it was cooked so I think it was getting pretty hot. Here are a couple of shots of the wheel side. I thought they looked acceptable. [ATTACH=CONFIG]118992[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]118993[/ATTACH]

Hay guys, I am looking at my differential spline teeth on my 88 and they don't look so good. I replaced it drive side on the wheel with the last tire change and this time I am looking at that differential and thinking it looks pretty bad. Pictures to follow. So here is the question since i saw a 96 venture differential on ebay for like $80 that looked good. Are they interchangeable with the first gen.

Has anyone had to replace this o ring? I rebuilt my front master cylinder and in the process I pulled the sensor out and noticed the only reason fluid does not leak out the bottom of the reservoir is the o ring around the shaft on this sensor. The rebuild kit did not include this o ring. I have it back together and it feels like it works just fine but I have a leak. Not sure where it is but the bottom line is there is a leak. It would be easy enough to replace the o ring. I am wondering if it is a specific size that is easy enough to come by. I checked and it does not appear to be available from Yamaha. Considering it is 32 years old it seems like it would not hurt to replace it

Having been through this CDI issue last year or was it two years ago I can tell you the easiest solution was to got to Pinwall and buy another CDI. It was maybe $40. Maybe someone with better skills than I could have saved my board but since they are still out there (I hope) I would just pick up another, seal it up good and relocate it above the battery. It was winter and I had time to put into the repair but I think Flin actually took a close look at mine after I sent it to him and it was not salvageable. All I tired to do was replace my diodes that were not really failing.

Interesting points guys. As I mentioned I was curious if anyone was buying these bikes for parts and it sounds like you guys are in agreement that he is unlikely to find someone to give him money just to part it out. I have not been up to see it but I have thought through the numerous and continued repairs that I keep making on mine to keep it running. It is most likely that this bike has not had much done to it so it is most likely a repair waiting to happen. Hell you could even say that about mine but at least on mine I know what I have done or at least I can remember most of them. On the other hand I just took mine out for its first long ride of the season. Came back as usual just astounded at how nice this bike is. It sounds like there is a v8 in there and feels like it also. I keep asking myself its it just me and that I have learned to love this bike or is it really that good still. That fact that I still think it looks good helps a lot also. I am thinking a nice collection of replacement parts would be a good idea and having the body panels the same color make this one to consider. I have given some thought to how the color match might be. I repainted mine to stock 7 years ago. I suspect the original paint might not be a perfect match but this bike seems to hide the differences. I think I had one side of the front fairing different from the other side for years and people often never noticed. I will keep all this advice in mind.

It was nice here in northcentral Pa yesterday and maybe we should have ridden to the state park but got out late and would have regretted in on the way home. As usual I am still putting the last repairs in on the bikes before riding season really starts here. Got my braided steel lines changed over to one line off the master and split before the calipers. Then rebuilt the master cylinder. Learned that speed bleeders are great once the master cylinder is bled out but inhibit vacuum bleeding. Had to pull one off and put a standard on to pull fluid through the master cylinder. Change the oil on the 88 and I suspect the o ring on the bolt did something during installation since it would not press through until I started threading it on. Something went pop and either it went into the housing or it is at the top of the nut. So far it is not leaking so maybe it does not matter. Put on some heated grips I have had hanging around for years and wow do they get nice and hot. Now I just need to get the head light working again. That is probably the starter button. Always something to do in the garage unfortunately I drive a 18 wheeler and I have to run down to Lafayette LA tomorrow. Now sure how long we will be doing that but I am told there will be food and other stuff that will need moved once we stop delivering overhead doors. Stay apart everyone and maybe we will get this under control. I was sure we would all get this eventually but now I am thinking it might be possible for a good percentage to not get it if we keep those who have it and don't know it to stay away from other people. That should only take a few weeks once we get the infected to stop passing it around.

A Madura. Are we talking about Suzuki's old V4. I don't think I have seen one of them on the road in 10 years. I test road a used Cavalcade which I think was the same motor. It ran nice and smooth. Must be a V4 characteristic. I have learned to really appreciate the V4 and wish the new venture had the 1700 vmax motor.

Any thoughts, I ran across a white 1988 Venture for sale and since I still have mine and can not seem to sell it I thought I should probably consider buying it. Any thoughts. Things to consider. I have had mine for maybe 30 years and it has 90k on it. Body work is good but not perfect. Has new paint in the original color. I have been repairing everything as needed and done so many I have a hard time remembering them all. I have found a two 88s and both owners have only had them for a short time and know very little about the bikes. I figure I am basically buying a parts bike and with that in mind what do you guys thing a parts guy is buying these bike for. I see lots of parts on ebay and PinWall would be a good example of someone that would give something for the bikes just to part them out. My guess is a parts bike might be worth a $1000 if the motor starts and runs and the bike is in good shape.

I have had this same problem and it just occurred again. I was debating on weather or not to just buy another switch cluster off ebay but after reading this thread maybe I pull the switch apart and do a better job of cleaning and lubing it. I have group of CBX owner that I have been getting together with for about 30 years now and inevitably I would end up working on my bike in the parking lot of the hotel. Sure enough last fall we got together and once again I needed to work on my bike in the parking lot at night with a bunch beer drinking consultants helping. After a couple of hours of changing bulbs and running wires one of the smarter consultants (he really has a reputation of being one of the best) suggested that it was most likely the switch since nothing else worked. Sure enough all I had to do was take the switch apart and put it back together and it worked. I jokingly said he fixed it telepathically.

Hay Guys, I just tried to rebuild my front break master cylinder on my 1988. The K&L kit that was advertised to fit (232-4146) is for a 16 mm bore and my 1988 has a 14 mm bore. Does anyone know what the correct K&L kit number is. They are readily available so it would be convent to just order the correct kit but they do not list the size. Maybe I will just order the kit for the new Venture. Ok after a bit more research for anyone interested. I got on a site that sells OEM parts and got a part number for the rebuild kit. 4H7-W0041-50-00. On another site they had a photo of the kit that is listed as the correct size for the 1988. It has a ruler laid out below it and it shows the rubber ring that is approximately the size of the cylinder bore. It was just about 1/2 inch so it is likely for the 14mm bore cylinder. I took that OEM part # and put into the search bar for Amazon and low and behold up came the part but it is listed for a several ATVS over several years. It does list the part number so it is safe to say it should work. $22.95 with free shipping. Now lets discuss what other master cylinder will work on these handle bars that is 16mm since I think that might be better for a delinked system that I put together. I can also suggest not staking 2 lines on the master cylinder. Better to run just one line and split it down below. The two lines took up too much room up top.

I just got a reply back from Clear View and they no longer make the early model venture windshield. This is not looking good.

I just spoke with Don at F4 and asked him if he had something for a 88. He said they never made one. In my research on this forum I could have sworn I recall guys discussing an F4 for a 1st gen but I guess not according to Don.

At the risk of stating the obvious, I like the better wind coverage it provides. Maybe because I am 6'1" I find wind buffeting to be an issue. Having your head rattle around in the wind is fatiguing and if you try and talk over blue tooth or any other bike to bike communication system the still air pocket a larger windshield creates helps a lot. We (my wife and I) bought a Vstar 13 that has a flat windshield on it like many baggers. The wind that came up under that windshield was ridiculous. We tried lower that attach to top of the forks and that did very little. Surprisingly the small wind deflectors that attached to fork lowers fixed the problem. We are getting way off the subject but now that I am on a roll I might as well go with it. Taking photos of windshields is not as easy as it sounds. This bike has a still air pocket better than most full size touring bikes. It has side shields, two sets of fork shields. The dark tinted ones made the biggest difference. It has hand shields and fabric covers on the crash bars and floor boards. I suspect you could outfit any bagger this way and get really good coverage if you like the full see through front end. I found that most batwing style farings did not work that well for creating a still air pocket.

Here are a couple of photos of the windshield. It has a couple of cracks that keep reminding me of something dumb that I did so I thought it was time to think about replacing it if possible. As you might be able to tell it is literally as wide as the bike. It extends out to the edge of the fairing. It is also taller. The thing has remained as clear as the day I installed it some 15 years ago. As I said if I have to I will resort to having one of these boat windshield guys try and make me a new one. The claim they can make any windshield, I guess it is just a matter of how much you want to pay. Fortunately this one is still in one piece so maybe they could use if for a form

Looking to replace my aftermarket huge windshield. I found this one some 15 years ago. It was sold or made by a Venture owner that made a hand full of parts like saddle bag lid retainer cords. (I bought some never put them on, have now lost them, and just last month had one of my lids fly off) Anyways. This windshield has been wonderful and I am guessing it is no longer available. Someone mentioned they remember that had the windshields made and thought they might still have the mold still hanging around. I am also willing to send this one to any company that makes custom molded plastic. I still have my stock windshield but really don't want to put it on. I have gotten so used to the this shield that I am willing to do what ever it takes to get another one.

I pulled the RLU unit and crossed all the wires as suggested in the photos and now when I turn on the high beam the white light on the dash comes on. Anyone have an idea what would cause this.

Man you have the "I want to keep this bike running" sickness bad. You will fit right in with this bunch of nuts. Most of us keep these bike running because we have had them for so long and grown to really like them. They pretty much work as good as any of the new bikes and looking at my 88 parked next to my 09 Vision I really don't see "new bike and old bike". They both look impressive and capable of doing just what they were built to do. As far as taking apart the motor to fix 2nd gear wow that is a big job. Every time I work on mine I think about how much I would not want to try and pull that motor. I think I would go buy another bike first. There are so many in good or great condition and so little demand for them that the price is typically good. I picked up an V65 years ago for $150. It had a lot of issues but I always wanted one and thought I could put this thing back together. After way more work than I should have put in I got to the bottom of my 1/4 mile long down hill driveway and found out the clutch was bad. Got that fixed and eventually found out my 2nd gear was bad. The V4 motor is not and easy one to work on and it was cheaper ($200) to buy and new motor and swap them out. Even that was a big job. You basically had to pull the bike up off the motor. Just remembering where everything goes and how lines run is nuts. I actually had to go look at and video tape a friends bike since the manual did not really explain how everything went back together. I had to laugh yesterday when I finally got my front and back end back on the bike and looked at the tray of leftovers. Only about 1/2 dozen fasteners left over. I figured that was pretty good. After replacing the break lines and calipers I now have a back break that does not seem to work real good and a front that still feels like it way to soft but that a matter for another thread. Good luck and happy to help if possible.

thanks for the help guys as always this forum is the best

So I am trying to get my new calipers and braided steel lines bleed and thought I would order some of the self bleeders. Can anyone confirm my size measurement of the bleeders. I think what we have is 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch. Anyone confirm this?