venturesome

Momma Yama better hurry. I am 70 years old and won't be able to afford a new one. Will have to wait for a well-used one... about 25 years! Jus sayin'

I would not want to be one you chose to ride with and then chose to avoid. The humiliation would be too great, so I must respectfully decline your potential positive experience, lest it become dramatic.

Around here, a lawn that hasn't been cut for 2 months is called a rain forest! Glad you got that beast under control and head'n home before it passed the ice cream shop.

I have a set of passenger floor boards. There is a set of driver floorboards in the classified section

I have a complete set of his tools!

I have heard that a goat will not eat the stickers off his own bike, and I don't see any missing stickers! Just sayin.....

My speedometer on the '84 std quit yesterday. The odometer still works, no squeals, so cable seems OK. Is there a fix for this, or is it time to look for a used one?

Now you have insulted John Deere!

I'm making plans to be 71 in Feb! Hope it works out.

Could be, but I'm not Cher! (this is gettin bad) My apologies, PrarieHammer, nice trailer, hope you find some nice graphics.

Why would you only want an artist named Pro Bono to paint it?

seventyteen

Thank God the physicians are more proficient than Valet Parking! Enjoy the ice cream and have a quick recovery, so you can help fix that bus that ran over you.

Mama made hub cap size biscuits and we would poke a hole in them with our finger and fill with syrup for dessert. Also we dreaded when the Sears catalog ran out and only corn cobs were left! Ouch!

A follow-up to close the post: I used a regular washer under the lock washer of each stator screw. After cleaning the screws and applying red locktite, I used the "goodntite" torque method. (Grip pliers and a large phillips screwdriver to apply just a little more pressure than I could muster without them. Problem solved. No more chatter. Anyone experiencing these symptoms or thinking about installing Rick's Motors stators should review these posts. If that stator vibrates loose you will have a bad day! Thanks for all the replies.

I saw a rider today with shorts and a t-shirt and sandals blow by the house. He needs to talk to you! Glad you were prepared as you could be. I hope your pain is short-lived and your recovery quick.

I acquired a 1984 Venture Std a few weeks ago and finally got around to starting it. When I tweaked the throttle there was a noticeable "chatter" and when holding my hand on the stator cover I could feel a distinct vibration. The PO had mentioned this but thought it might be a missing washer on the starter clutch. He also said that the stator had been replaced with a Rick's Motors. After some research on this forum (it always comes thru) I noticed several mentions of the Rick's stator having loose screws after installation due to the new stator being a few mm thinner and the original screws "bottomed out", but appeared to be tight. After removing the cover I found mine to be loose enough to wiggle with my finger. My question is whether I should shorten the screws or put a thicker washer under them? Use blue or red Loktite? Also my online manual has only a partial page 3-52, which I assume gives the torque for these screws. Anyone have a good page 3-52 they could send me? Or tell me what the torque should be. Thanks!

I drained the tank and disassembled the selector parts. The o-ring appears to be a 14mm ID x 1.5mm. The original o-ring was shrunk and somewhat loose. I ordered new viton o-ring (and some spares) from oringsUSA. Hope this works!! Is there a lubricant that can be used on the selector that makes it turn easier?

Some radiator shops will "boil them out" for you.

Will I need to remove the petcock to fix this problem, or can I rebuild "in place"? I noticed that there is an o-ring that I can get to just by removing the plastic knob and two screws holding the plate on. Does anyone know the size of this oring? It appears to be 17mm OD, but I don't know ID. Hopefully replacing this oring will stop the leak, looks like a new petcock is about $75.00!

I might have a front bracket. PM me.

Thanks for the mental images. Now I can't sleep!

Thank you for your responses. Dingy's response of his experience with temps leads me to believe that I indeed have two problems: One that two cylinders are not firing when engine is warmed up with choke off. (Low temps on #2 and #4 and tach driven by #2 is not working). I did check plugs for spark before starting engine and all 4 were firing. I did not check plugs for spark after engine was warmed up, but I will now and report results. Two is that rear cylinders are too hot, suggesting a lean condition (maybe diaphragms not opening slides properly?). I am repositioning the TCI to the top of the airbox and will open it up and check inside. This will hopefully eliminate one of the potential problems. I know the diaphragms need replacing, but I wanted to see if everything else checked out before taking that step. Carbs were thoroughly cleaned and I replaced all o-rings. Prior to cleaning the carbs, I checked the compression. All cylinders were 145-150 cold. Also pickup coils and ignition coils checked OK. This is an 83 VR that I picked up for $100, so I don't expect it to run great without a lot of headaches! The odometer shows 21000 miles, and I believe it to be accurate. The bike doesn't look heavily used, just badly neglected. I appreciate the help from forum members who have been there, done that.

I'm still confused about the temperatures. Front two cylinders seem too low, and back two seem two high. The airbox is off and I can view the sliders. They move only slightly when throttle is opened. Should they move significantly? Maybe I have a combination of problems. The fact that the tach works OK when cold, then "drops out" when warmed up is also a concern. From what I read, that means #2 is not firing. I didn't put new diaphragms in when I rebuilt the carbs, and they certainly weren't perfect, so maybe I will start there. Have to save up for 4 of 'em. No more ice cream for awhile!

I am restoring a 1983 VR. I just rebuilt the carbs and started it up. It ran OK until warmed up then starting running like $#$@$#! The problem seems to be ignition and I am checking that out now. The #2 and #4 cylinders are cold relative to the #1 and #3 . (also the tach doesn't work now, which makes sense). My question is what is a normal temperature for a warmed up running engine at the exhaust ports? #2 and #4 show about 170 deg and #1 and #3 show about 450 deg. I am measuring temp with infrared sensor "gun" with laser pointed on pipes coming out of exhaust port. Should they all be around 450 deg or is this low or high? Thanks for your help!