rayserra

I appreciate the information, and advice. I think I'll save the money on this one and do it myself. I am looking at skydoc's anti-dive block off plates. My machine, although low miles at 18K, has been sitting for a while, so I need to replace the fork oil, and may as well upgrade to progressive springs at the same time. The anti-dive valves appear to be working properly, but not nearly as well as progressive springs will. This ain't no goldwing, I want...no need...to be able to dive into the corners. Thanks again.

Right off the top of my head I can think of 52 reasons to go e-bay. Seriously, skydoc's kit appears to include a 6 pole fuse block (on e-bay for $8), 2 lengths of cable with connectors, several assorted screws and connectors (all of which I already have) and what appear to be 2 fused links, not to mention instructions for installation. Apparently that price includes shipping to the lower 48 as well. Please excuse my ignorance if I should know this (I'm new to touring bikes with all the do-dads), but are those pieces indeed fused links, and what are they replacing? I also noted the relocation of the control module. Is there a practical purpose to this beyond ease of access?

Where did you find that? I did a search on e-bay but came up empty.

bkuhr, The fuse itself was hot to the touch. It has since melted the wire inside the glass tube. I don't think there is warning indication, but I'm not positive. jasonm, Would you recommend any extra measure for a connector that is in good condition? Something to keep moisture out.

Thank you all for your input and insight. I did a pretty thorough check of the wiring harness up front, and everything looked pretty clean. I pulled connections apart where I could get my hands on them through the headlamp cover and top side covers; no signs of corrosion whatsoever. All the connectors looked brand new, and for the most part came apart pretty easily. The grounds I found up top were also clean and tight. One of the reasons I bought it is that it was obviously stored indoors for most of its life. Hasn't helped the body panels though, lots of broken tabs and busted corners, must've been jostled around a bit. Anyway, the main fuse block (glass tube type) is making good connections. The tabs are tight and in good shape. Again, no signs of corrosion. Curious though that the tail light circuit is overheating. I'll look at it more closely for damage to the body, but again, all the tabs were tight and making good contact. If not a faulty ground what, besides a bad connection at the fuse itself, would make the circuit overheat? bkuhr, if I understand your comment regarding the start switch providing ground to the solenoid, this explains why I'm getting constant current to it. I agree that the start button seems like the most likely culprit, it fits all the symptoms except the tail light fuse. I'll check the various safety system lock outs, but don't have any reasons to suspect them in light of the insight gained regarding the start button. I see your point flyinfool about bypassing the safeties by jumping the starter relay. Thanks again.

Thanks for the input Muffinman. I will definitely check out the replacement, blade style fuse holder. The side stand safety must have been bypassed, the first time I jumped the starter relay it was in gear. Almost tipped her over. I'll make sure the bypass is a clean connection though. I understand the reason for the sidestand switch and everything, but come on, I need to be able to start it on its sidestand. The bike is too heavy to lift onto the centerstand so I can warm it up.

I'm new to the forum and new to Yamaha as well, and recently acquired an '89 XVZ1300 with 18K miles. Have an issue with an intermittent electrical problem, and would like some experienced opinions regarding likely causes. Initially when I tried to start it I got no response from the start button, yet all lights appeared to function, so I figured either the start button or relay. I jumped the positive battery terminal to the starter side of the relay and she fired right up, confirming the likelyhood of the start button being the culprit. However, as I was pulling away (on a very bumpy gravel drieway) I hit a bump and the dash and headlight went out, bike still running. It was late at night, and I wasn't home, so I turned it around and headed back up the very bumpy driveway. I shut it down, turned the key off and back on, and tried the start button, but no response and no lights (bypassing the solenoid still worked though). At the time I had only an owners manual for a 1200 (have since downloaded the service manual from this website, thank you very much) and noted the grounds for all the accessory lights in question are tied together to one grounding point. I removed several body panels and started rooting around looking for bad connections etceterra. Traced the ground to inside the left upper fairing, and it looked fine. In fact, all of the wiring connections looked pretty clean. This 23 year old machine must have spent most of its mostly dormant life indoors. Anyway, after rooting around and not finding anything out of the ordinary (begging a ride home, getting some sleep and returning with some tools) I tried to start it again and it fired right up, but still no lights. I took the start button apart and it looked fine. I rechecked the wiring harness, fuses, etcetera and found only a couple of clues. First, the fuse for the tail light was hot as hell (and has since melted), which seems to me must be a separate issue, probably a bad ground somewhere on the way to the tail, although I couldn't find anything. Second, I noted a constant low current to the starter relay switch. Unfortunately all I had at the time is a test light (very dim light when voltage detected, not enough to throw the switch), and I haven't had an opportunity to get back into it to check it. Now I figured I better get her home to work in the comfort of my garage, so I put it back together, and pressed start. To my surprise it fired right up, all accessories and lights working. In addition, on the way home I received another clue. The lights and accessories were intermittenly shutting on and off, which seemed to coincide with progressively smaller bumps in the road. I'll give the start button a more thorough examination, which may be the cause of the contant current to the starter relay switch. I'll also try to chase down what I feel is probably a faulty ground in the tail light wiring. I'm thinking possibly the ignition switch. Otherwise I was hoping someone with more experience with these machines might recognize the symptoms and point me in the right direction.