Miles

Wade, I see your point, and I know you are referring to the yamaha V-4, but...Saab also made a nice V-4. The problem is hooking it up to the transverse mounted 5 speed tranny. Besides, the Yammy V-4 produces less HP than my current engine.

Damn, you beat me to it. I was going to comment that his high temp was onbly going to be 15 or 16 degrees, while mine is going to be mid 60's or possibly 70. Spoil sport:whistling:

Don, very good question, and...despite what Beltfed50 said...I think it depends on many factors that would make the decision as to which system I would choose...either linked ABS or non-linked ABS. There are many things to consider...the style of bike, meaning cruiser, touring, adventure...on road or off road...and the type of engine...v-twin, opposed 6...v-4...inline 4...etc. As per your question...same bike, but two options, I would most likely lean toward a linked ABS system. Why...Those riders that understand what a real linked brake system means, also understand that when you hit the rear brake foot pedal, you are not equally getting the same amount of front brake pressure as you are rear brake pressure, and...vice-versa. It all depends on the number of brake pistons in each caliper...front and rear. Example, on a Wing, if you pull on the front brake lever, you are engaging the two outer-most pistons on each of the two from brake calipers, one on each side, and the center piston is not engaged. But you are also engaging the center brake piston on the rear caliper, when that front brake lever is pulled. So, in essence, front brake lever engages a total of 4 brake piston on the front, and one brake piston on the rear. If you push down on the rear brake pedal, you are now engaging the two outer pistons on the rear caliper, and engaging the two inner-most pistons on the front calipers...one on each side of the front, so in essence, the rear brake pedal engages a total of 4 brake pistons. Given that 70 + % of a bikes braking ability comes from the front brakes, it is good to have some braking at the front end, when engaging the rear brake pedal. If you were to attempt to lock up the rear brake by using the rear brake pedal...on a NON-ABS GL-1800, that had linked braking, you would not be able to lock up the front brakes...while attempting to lock up the rear. It gives you some braking up front, but not enough to lock up the front rotors. I can see...and agree...with Beltfed50's concept of wanting to have 100% control over which brake is doing what, and if the occassion ocurred that I wanted to lock up the rear brakes, then I would want control over that. But...this is 2013...not 1972...and that being said, the manufacturers go to great lengths to test these bikes and make the decision as to link...or not link. Some manufacturers have gotten it right, and a few...a few...have not been as careful as they should have been. My original opinion was that I did not want linked brakes or ABS brakes when it came to my adventure bike. I proved myself wrong. I originally wanted to be able to slide the bike, and spin the rear tire, and basically flat-track it, if the need arose, when riding on dirt or gravel roads. But...spend 50,000 to 100,000 miles on gravel and dirt roads, at speed, and you will find that the modern bikes allow you to do what you need to, yet they can also save your butt when it comes to ABS, linked, and traction control that can be turned off or on. Quick answer...it depends on the bike. But my initial choice would be...linked ABS.

Barry, simple answer...yes, it can be done...with a LOT of money. Much more money that it is worth. Anything is possible with enough money.

Tomorrow...I promise...tomorrow. I know I said that yesterday, but it is pouring rain right now, and...your posted should have said..."this thread is STILL worthless without pics". And, your post is worthless with so many little signs being held so high above those little smiling faces.

You are right...the ABS should be the first option, like it was back in the '01 thru '05 years. I have looked at the current situation through Hondas' eyes, and they pizz me off because of their money grubbing ways. If I were the manufacturer, I would want my riders to be safe, so they could come back and buy more bikes over the years, than to have less safety, and rely solely on the next generation to buy the new Hondas, because Honda allowed the current generastion to buy bikes that were less safe than they could have been. I was soooooooo mad when I had to buy my '06 Wing, and I refused to be a Pimp Daddy with all of Hondas' crap on it. I ordered one without ABS, because I refused to have a heated seat or their GPS. Luckily for me, years of riding the '03 and '04 Wings trhat had ABS, taught me how to ride the Sport-Touring 1800 GL, so by the time I bought the '06...without ABS, I was prepared. Still would have liked to have had ABS, but I am too much of a howdy doody freckle faced kid to be a pimp daddy.

Yeah...if only. Actually, as Jeff (flyinfool) said the 4 cyl boxer engine from Subaru is a great engine, used in home aircraft. There have been many techs that have tried to install a small flat 4 boxer Subaru engine in one of these Subaru Justy cars, but they will not fit. If I could make one fit, without changing the entire front structure of th car, I would. This car would be very fast with a 2.5 liter flat 4 boxer, and even faster with the WRX 2.0 liter turbo engine. Subaru has made this boxer engine in many different sizes, from a 1.6 to a 1.8, to a 2.2, to a 2.5, and the 2.0 turbo, but none will fit inside the engine bay of a Justy, and still allow it to be a front wheel drive car. Now, you could install one of those engines, if you wanted to only have rear wheel drive, by simply leaning off the front stub axles and CV axles, but that would mean having to start with a Justy that was originally an 4wd car, and mine is a 2wd car...front wheel only. This poor little 1.2 liter, 3 cyl, origianlly 73 HP engine is working pretty good to go as fast as it does. With the turbo I added, making it 124 HP, it winds the engine out to scream mode, but the little car does fly. When I am feeling more sedate, I drive my Subaru Forester S, that I have tweaked with much bigger diameter swaybars, allow the engine to breath easier, and the willingness to drive on the edge.

Okay, I am forced...forced I tell you, to jump into this fray. I must concur with my collegue from British Coumbia when it comes to ABS brakes. I have owned a lot of vehicles over my many years...on this planet...not to mention vehicles I have had on other planets. My experience shows that I would much rather have ABS brakes in a modern car, especially if it is a front wheel drive car, or an all wheel drive car. If it were an older American made rear wheel drive car, I may elect to go without the ABS brakes, and luckily for me, very few older American made rear wheel drive cars offered ABS brakes. I have also owned...and ridden hundreds of thousands of miles...on ABS equipped motorcycles, i.e., my '97 BMW R1100RT, and my 2003 GL-1800, and my 2004 GL-1800, and my 2005 BMW R12GS, and my 2012 Yam Super Tenere'. That is not a complete list, but it references several different brands and models. I can tell you with 100 % certainty that given a choice...given how I ride...I would choose an ABS equipped bike every time over a non-ABS bike, if ABS was offered on a bike I wanted to own. Example...the 1974 Norton 850 Commando that I am wanting to buy right now does not come in an ABS version, and I can accept that. When it comes to riding a bike with ABS, versus...riding a bike without ABS, many tests have been done by very qualified professional riders, and the only way that a non-ABS bike can come close to stopping at a distance even close to what an ABS bike can...is if the rider knows well in advance that this is the spot he is supposed to apply the brakes, and this is the spot he is supposed to attempt to stop at. But those are not real world conditions. Knowing in advance when to apply a brake, or how hard to apply the brakes, so that you can stop at a pre-ordained spot, is not real world riding. All the professional riders admitted that an ABS equipped bike can in fact stop at a much shorter distance than a non-ABS equipped bike...when ridden on the roads, in real world riding conditions. Fact, there is no human being that is capable of stopping a non-ABS bike as fast as the same rider can stop an ABS bike...when the sh*t hits the fan and a herd of prong-horned antelope jump out in front of you in Interstate 90 in Eastern Montana. I have personally been in that exact situation, one week after buying my '03 Wing...with ABS, and the bike paid for itself right then and there. Yes, linked brakes are different than ABS brakes. And...linked ABS brakes are different than non-linked ABS brakes. Also, different manufacturers have different brake control feedback when hammering an ABS brake lever or foot lever. Some manufacturers are very smooth and accurate when giving feedback to the rider through the front or rear brake controls. Whereas others are very pulsating, and not as accurate. It also depends on the road surface, whereas dry asphalt is a much better surface to hammer your ABS brakes than say...loose gravel. In loose gravel a BMW will pulsate with an on and off action, and it will make you wonder if the bike is indeed going to stop before you and the bike fly off the 200 foot cliff...believe me...I know...and the bike did go off the cliff. Honda has a pretty darn good ABS system, but...(and I am very mad that Honda made this change)...it was an easy choice when I bought my '03 and '04 Wings, because in the '01 thru '05 model Wings, you had a choice of buying a standard Wing, or an ABS Wing...and then you could add any and all the crap you wanted to pimp out your bike. I always chose an ABS equiped bike. But...urgggg...on the '06 thru '13 Wings, to be able to get an ABS equipped bike, Mother Honda forces you to become a Pimp Daddy, because the only way to get the ABS on the later Wings, is first...you have to get the Premium Sound System bike (level 1), then you have to get the Comfort Package bike (level 2), then you have to get the Nav Package bike (level 3), and finally you can get the ABS bike (level 4). The only level higher than that is the level 5 bike, which is the Air-Bag equipped bike. Personally, I can live with their Premium Sound System bike, although I rarely ever listen to my external speakers, as I listen to everything thru my helmet headset. But I cannot accept their Comfort Package bike, because it means a Heated Seat...along with Heated Handgrips. Now I always install heated handgrips on every bike I own, but experience and a lot of testing has proven that a heated seat is the stupidest thing ever invented for a motorcycle. Why, because you do NOT want to apply heat to the contact pressure points of your butt. You want to heat everything else on your body, but not the contact pressure points of your butt. Next, the Nav Package is Honda's poor excuse for a GPS. The problem with that GPS is that it is NOT fully operational while the bike is in motion. There are some things that can only be operated when the bike is stopped, and the trans in neutral. That is bad for someone like me, as I do everything at speed. I understand that it is meant to be a safety item, so that other riders do not play with their GPS while going 100 mph, but when I can buy a Garmin that allows me to do anything I want at 100 mph, then I would not buy the Honda Nav package. But Mother Honda will not sell a new 1800 Wing, with the best safety item available today...the ABS brakes, unless you agree to become a Pimp Daddy, and buy a bike that has all their crap on it, that does not work as well for serious long distance riders, as the aftermarket stuff we can buy. Bad Honda...Bad... The Yamaha ABS system has the best rider feedback of any bike I have ridden. It is smooth, accurate, and works well enough on road or off road to be a good addition to a Super Tenere'. If Yamaha ever does update the Venture...to things like fuel injection...I hope they also add ABS to the bike, as it is well worth the extra money spent. Now, as to the silly (yes, I did say silly, and I won't call it other names) idea of dis-connecting the ABS feature of a car that came with ABS brakes, what you will find is that the brake system on a car that was made as an ABS brake system, but is now disconnected...will in fact operate much worse than a car that has normal...non-ABS brakes. I can understand turning off the traction control...and a lot of cars...and some bikes...allow you to turn off or on the traction control system. There is no argument there. But to disconnect an ABS system...in an attempt to make it a normal braking system...you would be wrong to assume that it is that easy, or that the brakes will operate as a normal system, by taking the ABS system out of the loop. Read 100 tech manuals, and 99 of them will agree with this. Either buy a non-ABS vehicle, or buy an ABS equipped vehicle, but do not...do NOT...disconnect the ABS system from a vehicle that came with ABS, because it will feel worse than a car that "had" power brakes, but then the power brake booster went out, so now you have to mash down on the brake pedal to get the car to stop. Think what you will, but I have owned, and still own...ABS equiped bikes and cars, and they can in fact stop at a much shorter distance than a non-ABS vehicle can. And as SilvrT said, when you nail the brakes on an ABS eqippped bike, the bike stops fast...no slidding...and you save your life.

Given that we are getting very close to the end of this auction, and...making no assumptions...it might be good to start planning on having someone meet the auction high bidder at the airport. I think KenP told me that it was best to fly into IAH (I think that was it), rather than HOU. If anyone is close to the Houston area, and is willing to pikc the high bidder up at the airport, please tell us what time of day would be good to arrive at the airport, so that we do not disturb your work hours. Just saying...

You know...I would...except this little motor does not have the lower end that can handle nitrous. These engines were originally designed by Subaru to last 100,000 miles, and that was it. This puppy now has 176,000 on it, and is still running on original bearings, pistons, rings, etc. It has been resealed, but other than that, all original. It was a gamble to put the turbo on it, but I keep the boost down to 7 pounds.

I did already buy a new camera, after the bandito ordeal. I honestly went looking for pics of the Little Pocket Rocket, as I thought I had some on my 'puter. None to be found....Hey, who stole my pictures? So I will take some pictures tomorrow, and post them. My hesitency is...the car currently has the Winter tires on the blac powder-coated wheels on it...and it looks even better with the American Racing mags, with the summer tires on it.

There was a time when I was able to pull an engine from one of my cars, and overhaul it that day, and reinstall it the same day, and be done with it. Apparently, those days are gone. I just spent the last 3 hours out in my shop, removing the engine from my little pocket rocket, because I made the error of going a little too deep into the simple repair job I had started, and now I have to do a major job on the engine. A short history...of life...about 3 weeks ago I was driving my little pocket rocket down into town to get the mail, and I blew the cam belt. This little pocket rocket (decribed later) has a non-interference engine, so no damage was done to the engine when the can belt broke. I immediately called a friend, we towed the little car back up the hill to my place, and I diagnosed that it was in fact a broken cam belt/timing belt. Now that I knew the problem, I decided to take my time with the repair, and not rush through it like I normally would have...30 years ago. I ordered the new belt, and I already had a full OEM gasket set sitting on my shelves, so I was ready to go once the new cam belt showed up. A couple days later....I start doing the cam belt, but once I get all the covers off, and the old belt off, and I replaced the Cam seal, and the Crank seal...I made the error of trying to replace the "mechanical" seal of the waterpump, from the Cam belt side...and I forgot that to do the "mechanical" seal, it would require that I also remove the oil pan, to fully remove the front gear covers...a much deeper job than I intended to do. Then...I tried doing all this in the car...second error. Now I was frustrated with myself, and disappointed that I made such an error. I vowed to take my time, not hurry the project, and to that end, I let the car sit in my shop, taking up space on my car lift, for the last 2 weeks. (that bugged me, as I am an efficiency expert at heart) Today, I removed the engine from the little pocket rocket, and it is now sitting on my new engine stand. The car is now parked outside my shop, all closed up, ready for the rain to come tomorrow. At least now I can take the Winter tires/wheels off my wifes' car, and install her Summer tires/wheels, and change the oil on her car. I don't like having a car stranded on my car lift. I don't like taking so long to do work like this. I have worked very hard to keep my plate as clean as possible, so that there are no projects that are undone. I made the decision that if I have to remove this little engine from this little pocket rocket, now is the time to install all new seals, including a new rear main, a new clutch, new throw-out bearing, new oil pan gasket, etc, etc, etc. But I am going to take my time. I don't need to have this car to drive anywhere, as my wife and I both have other cars that are our primary cars. This little pocket rocket is for fun, and...sometime economy, depending on who is driving it. The little pocket rocket...a 1991 Subaru Justy GL, 1.2 liter, 3 cylinder, that used to be a 73 HP engine, and was changed to a turbo engine 124 HP 6 years ago when a friend gave me the car, . I did all the turbo install work, as well as all new struts at all four corners, all new paint, all new exhaust, new American Racing summer wheels and tires, and had the OEM wheels sand-blasted and Powder-coated Gloss Black...of course, with new Winter tires mounted on the black wheels. It is a 2 door model, not 4wd, and it is the 5 speed trans...not the crappy ECVT trans. I knew in the back of my mind, that I should go through this engine when I installed the turbo, to replace things like the cam belt, etc, but I also knew it was a non-interference engine, so...(my bad...and I hate that saying) So, now with all the engine work that is going to be done this time, along with all the work and money spent on it before, this little pocket rocket will be even better. There is no real resale value for a 22 year old Subaru Justy, other than fanatic value for those that just love these little cars. I could never sell it for what I have into it, but my wife and I love this little car so much, we would have a hard time parting with it. Before the turbo was installed, even with 150,000 miles on this (previously 73 HP engine), this car would smoke the tires in the first 3 gears. Now, with the turbo, and pumped up to 124 HP, it will smoke the tires in all 5 gears, and it scares the heck out of corvettes at a stoplight, once the light turns green. They alwasy give me a look like...did that little car really just do that?

BigLenny, riding a bike like the Super Tenere' would be unwise to install a cruise control, other than a simple throttle lock. When riding off road, down gravel roads for hundreds of miles, across creek beds, rivers, or hauling butt up the Haul Road in Alaska, it would be an error to switch the bike over to electronic cruise control, and then have to switch it off 3 seconds later. However, a good old fashioned throttle lock is an accepted idea, if a rider wants to lock the throttle open for a moment or two, while at speed, to adjust something on the bike, open a vent on their jacket, etc. I did not have a simple throttle lock on the S10 either. And BigLenny, I did not go to Brazil. I went to Bolivia and Chile', which is farther than making the shorter ride to Brazil. Thought you would catch me on that one...eh? As for use of an electronic cruise control on either an 1800 Wing, or any other bike, I only use the cruise control when I have a need to take my hand off the right grip for a moment or two., like...opening a vent on my jacket, throwing ball bearings at the car behind me , or turning on my heated grips or heated clothing controls. Otherwise I use my right hand for the throttle control 99.314159 % of the time. (couldn't resist that one) Back to you...BigLenny (still waiting for you to take that trip to Alaska)

Rick that is a good question. The answer is: When I take the plastic cowlings off to install the Nitrous kit, then I will take a good look at the engine.

FreezyRider, you are correct...I am not normal. What is normal anyway? And I don't mind being in the minority. Aren't we all in thwe minority, when it comes to the general populous? Given that it is the minority that ride motorcycles, and the majority drive cars...or walk...then we ALL are in the minority. And...my being in the IBA even further seapates me from the majority of motorcycle riders. So...I am so out there in left field, I continue to ride alone...boo hoo hoo. And yes, you are also correct in that those riders that have a "need" for using the reverse, really do use it. I have used it on occassion, but I can live without it. In your case, the bike must have a reverse. Now that you have been correct 3 times today, you can go back to bed, and dream about what yuou are going to be correct about tomorrow. No sense going to work, and making mistakes.

Oh Joe, no no no no no. I would own an F6B in a heartbeat, and I have owned 3 Goldwing 1800's...an '03, an '04, and an '06. And because I have had 3 of those Wings, I would go for the F6B, because it is that much different. The beauty in it (from my perspective) is that you get the same basic drivetrain, but in a blacked out bike. What attracts me the most to the F6B is the all blacked out engine, frame, and wheels. Every one of my Wings I have had to power-coat the wheels black. I would have liked to have the frame painted black, and the engine made black, but I didn't. Now the F6B offers that. You are right, I would buy the taller windshield from an aftermarket company, just as I did with my previous 3 Wings. I always took the stock windshield off, and installed either a Tulsa sport windshield, or a Clearview. So it is very easy to install a taller windshield on the F6B. And...you are right, it is relatively easy to buy and install a cruise control for the F6B if a person wants one. I would buy one, as I do use my cruise, at higher speeds, to do things while on the bike...not to just cruise down the road at a steady drone speed. The reverse being gone is not a deal breaker for me. My insean is only 30"/31", but I rarely used the reverse on my Wings, so I can live without it. I do wish that Mother Honda had installed the same left handlebar control for audio that is on the normal 1800 Wings...that includes the controls for the CB. I do use a CB, and buying an F6B would mean I would have to install a JMCB2003 unit which would not look as good on the F6B as a stock CB control from a big Wing would look. Again, to me, the attraction is all the blacked out wheels, engine and frame. I can easily add things to make it change its' tune from a cruiser to a tourer, by simple add-ons. Don't we already do that with every bike we own...add this...take off that ???? Make it our own, customize it...but never paint it Yellow:stirthepot:

Really ? I think the bigger question here is...Why were you "in" a Walmart...and reading the magazines for free ? That aside, it is true that the F6B does NOT have a cruise control, and does not have the handlebar controls for a CB, if you chose to install the CB. This is a stripped down Wing cruiser. Now, back to the real question, why were you reading motorcycle magazine for free in a Walmart?

I second that emotion...Thank YOU, Lewis ! (intentional bump)

Okay, south of you reporting now... MikeWa, I am very happy that you got "back in the sadlle again" today. Yes, it was a beautiful day in Western Washington. I think this was the first real day of good riding weather this year...but again, I was gone most of January. I took my RSMTD out this afternoon, and wanted to really open up the engine, now that I had completed the valve adjust, lowered the rear-end of the bike, installed the RS-Max rear diff gears, and a few other things. And...once again I was literally amazed at how this bike runs with those new RS-Max gears in it. It feels like a completely different bike. Wowzaa..... When I brought my bike back home, after a 2 hour ride of about 140 miles, I decided to go ahead an re-sync the carbs, since I do have a Carbtune Pro. I only did this 3 times to my bike last year, and after having adjusted the valves, it is wise to re-sync the carbs. They were only slightly out of sync, but now they are adjusted to perfection and the bike runs like a screamin' meamie (sp). Had one little correction to make to my aux. driving lights...that is now done, and the bike is ready to ride cross country. YaaaaaaHooooo:cool10:

Hey Mike, we just have to live in the same neck o' the woods, because I am taking my RSMTD out today too...because I live...South of MikeWa...

Paul, that is a very odd coincidence that both of us took our riding tests 43 years ago, and both on a Norton Commando. And...here we are today:cool10:

I have a few also. Between my wifes' bikes, and my bikes, we have a total of 14...all running, all insured, and all registered.

I am hoping you can make your friend up north FREAK out some more with this little tidbit of info. I rode for the first 43 years, more than 1,875,000 miles, and I never had to take a motorcycle class to get my first motorcycle endorsement. I did finally take a class, for the first time, this month, only because I wanted to add an endorsement for Sidecar/Trikes, and the rules and laws have changed a lot from what they were 43 years ago. Back in the old days , all we had to do was go to DMV, in Calif., and take the very short written test, and then take a very easy riding test in a parking lot, and if you passed both tests, you got your motorcycle endorsement. That was long ago, and I still remember that the day I took my rididng test in the parking lot, around some silly cones, all of the other riders brought their 250cc bikes, so they could handle the course...while I rode my Norton Commando, and did just fine. Today, In Washington State, to get a motorcycle endorsement of any kind, you have to take a complete 2 or 3 day class, written tests and riding tests, all conducted by these private-run schools, and if you pass, they give you a small card of completion to take to this states' DOL (dept. of licensing), and then still have to pay DOL a fee to add the endrosements to your license. I always found it funny that in the first 43 years of riding, no one ever required me to take a class, and yet...I have taught many MSF claasses over the years.

The question I would ask...because I do not know the answer...is: Does the annual registration in Canada also include annual insurance on that same vehicle, for that price ???? I know that some things are done differently in Canada, eh...but not sure about vehicle registration/insurance.

Gary, I think you mean to say..."so I can put HER bell on."