FiDude

https://vimeo.com/163778376 Here is what I saw when I had the air filter off 3 of The slides (I don't know if that is the right word for it) move when I give it gas the 4th (right front carb) slide does not move I can see gas being sprayed when I turn the throttle I can push the slide and it will slide back when I let it go but will not move when I turn the throttle I hope all the above is visible in the video Does that mean I have to pull the carbs to fix or is there a simpler fix Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From what I'm understanding from all the advice/suggestions so far is that the vmax/xvz12/xvz13 use similar parts with minor differences since whenever I check a suggested part and I select 84 Yam VR (XVZ12) then it says it's incompatible or doesn't show the XVZ12 as a "Fits" choice but members here are saying they have used those exact same parts on their bikes Am I correct in that assumption ? Sorry if I sound ignorant - this is my first attempt at trying to do this.

yamagrl, Thank you for the update and info on the gasket kit How about the jets and needles - do those need to be changed as well or just cleaned out. If they need to be changed as well then any suggestions on any "kit" for them.

I looked at that item earlier but when I (just to be sure if it will fit/work) select 1984 Yamaha Venture Royale it comes back and says "not compatible" Even though it says not compatible - is it really the correct thing ?

Thanks for the replies I've already changed the plugs I also checked when changing the plugs that all four "fire" up when cranked I run seafom almost every time I fill up I've only used the "recommended" mixture - never in higher concentrated dose I will try using a higher dose I'll search more for the "shotgunning" method you mention - haven't found it yet is it similar to "shocking" the fuel system for carbon cleanup - as mentioned by the dealer by using the "ringfree" product Seem to be good reviews about the "ringfree" product Apparently there is no "rebuild" kit for these per the dealer and each part has to be purchased separately J&P Cycles said there is a K&L rebuild kit ($30 per carb) but it doesn't include the all jets and needles - but when I looked up the K&L part (18-2592) # it says it's for a 750 suzuki - Doe anyone know if they are "similar" carbs ? The choke problem is that when I move the choke to about 1500-2000 rpm after it starts and as soon as I let go the choke lever it "moves" away from that position meaning the actual lever physically moves - it doesn't stay in that position the only place it will "stay" is around 3500-4000 without physically moving Almost always the only way to get it started is without using the choke and then use it "after" it has started The previous owner had some kind of string (looked like a shoe lace) wrapped around the choke lever to "make" it "stay" - looked real tacky The previous owner lied about a lot of things about the condition when I bought the bike - found (and finding more) out the hard way I've have been fixing ( making it right) it slowly little by little - I guess one thing at a time - but it is starting to get frustrating I will try the above mentioned suggestions and post the outcome

Hello All, I've lived with this problem for a while but figured it's about time I fixed it. I did the DanO starter clutch mod last fall and bike starts and runs etc I've always had a starting problem from the time I bought the bike a few years ago Have to crank it quite a few times before it will fire up - and then have to "play" with the choke to keep it running till it warms up and then all is fine. The choke does not stay at 1500-2500 rpm no matter how much I try - it "slips" back to idleing speed and/or shuts off the only way the choke will keep the bike running is at 3500-4000 rpm. The bike runs ok but I can only average about 120-130 miles to the tankfull. My old bike (Honda V65 Sabre) used to average 225-250 miles to the tankfull ( almost similar fuel capacity - VR=5.8 gals and V65=5.2 gals) I use seafoam on a regular basis - but still have the issue specially when the bike hasn't been started in more than a day. I called a few places locally and they want anywhere from $475-$1000+ (parts and labor - dealer wanted $600 labor and $500+ in parts) to rebuild the carbs One dealer told me to use "RingFree" ($20) first and run a full tank of gas and then change the oil right after Has anybody used "Ringfree" and big question is will it actually help resolve my problem. Or is there an alternative suggestion that might help resolve my problem - other than rebuilding the carbs. Beautiful weather here in Chicago (80's the last 2 days) - hopefully more to come. Would like to try and enjoy the bike more this season. Would appreciate any suggestion on how to resolve this problem without major expense. Thanks.

Thanks for the reply FlyinFool 1. If I take the middle gear cover off to check if it is leaking from where the stator wires exit - do I need to drain the oil or will it be ok with just a little drip (as I have read somewhere in one of the msgs) I thought I was careful to make sure I didn't gouge any part of the case/cover while cleaning it (but I'm only human and could've missed something) - I also made sure I cleaned the old gasket remnants to help prevent any leaks and used a new gasket - seem to have a hard time finding gaskets, O-rings, etc for this - as most of the dealers don't have them in stock) 2. yes I cleaned it when I had it out with a 1200 (smooth one) grit sandpaper I have tried to make sure it was it was aligned right multiple times as I was trying to figure out why it was leaking It is pushed in all the way as far as it will go (where it stops when it hits the "shoulder" ) - there is no "play" in the connection I will try it (re-clean and realign) again today and see if there is any difference. Is Permatex RTV clear silicone adhesive sealant ok to use for both issues (stator wire exit and bypass tube connection).

Hello All Sorry for taking so long to get back on - Dad's medical problems and hospital visits took up quite a bit of time. He is recovering and doing better. Thanks for all the suggestions that were given to fix my problems. I wound up buying a new side cover with the stator (one suggested by DanO from the pics I had posted earlier) The end of the wires did not have the standard connectors - took a while to figure out which wire goes where - hopefully I have it right. I had a heck of a time trying to find a replacement keyway (to replace the one that broke) - took over a month and a half (every dealer I called said it was on back order) to find one in MA and it took them almost 2 more weeks to mail it out - have no idea why. Anyway finally put everything back together (definitely a major learning experience for me) and started it yesterday (after almost 2 years). (WAS MUSIC TO MY EARS - yeaaaahhhh) The cranking/starting problems I was having are finally gone - hope it stays that way. Having a couple of problems after all that 1. A tiny oil leak from the bottom of the new side cover near the shift lever - don't know if the side cover itself has an issue (like a crack) or something is not sealed right - everything is tight - double checked. 2. Since I used to have a constant overheating problem before - I thought why not fix that too since I had most of the front of the bike apart anyway to change the starter clutch and rebuild the starter I changed the O-rings and the thermostat (which seemed to be stuck in the closed position - hopefully causing the overheating) - Now I'm having a water leak from where the bypass tube goes into the thermostat housing base (pics attached) - (Don't know why the pics turned sideways) I have reseated it multiple times trying to see if the leak will stop - but no luck. Even tried to use an o-ring that was listed for a 2000 VMAX 1200 ( was a very tight fit trying to get it in there) - but didn't seem to help either. I checked with the local dealer and they verified that there is NO o-ring or gasket that is supposed to be in that location. Looking for suggestions on what can be done to hopefully stop the leak. Someone suggested using "RTV" (I'm guessing that is some sort of silicone sealer) - to stop the leak - don't know if that is the correct solution. Would appreciate any suggestions/solutions for the problem.

Thanks for the suggestions all. Sorry I haven't been on in a couple of days as I've been in the hospital with my Dad. I will try the suggestions as soon as possible.

Am I better off getting a "used" crankshaft cover with the stator in it than trying to pry the current stator screws off and "fixing" the current stator Here are some that I found on ebay - any suggestions on which one "looks" good Unless someone in the group here has one available Thanks in advance for all the help.

Took a look at the stator - doesn't look "damaged" or broken wires - looks like there are "scrapes" on the wiring (pic attached - can post more if needed of anything specific) Hopefully I can "fix" them as FlyinFool suggested Can't even get any kind of "grip" on the screw heads to try to take them out No local Yamaha dealer has the keyway in stock - they all have to order it I'm going to go try the local ace hardware (as one of the dealers suggested) and see if they have something Any suggestions would be welcome

Yes, the rotor came off very easily almost no tightening of the puller was needed. I've called all the local yamaha dealers in the area and nobody has it in stock and they all have to order it I wonder if local hardware stores would carry the woodruff key The stator windings didn't look damaged but in the pic it looks like it - I think that is just the shavings off the mounting screws - I will check it again in person

Prairiehammer, Thanks for the reply Yes, I did use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine (which I'm guessing was the wrong thing to based on your msg) yes, it was torqued to 94lb/ft yes, it does have the stator cooling kit installed I did take the starter clutch out last night I think I found a couple of problems 1. the keyway was "split" into two pieces 2. the stator bolt head is half ground off 3. found a small scuff mark on the crankshaft right next to where the keyway is supposed to go - but not gouged or scored Hope I didn't do any damage to the crankshaft - based on pics do you think I damaged something Also can I buy just the keyway somewhere ?

I'm going crazy trying to figure out what I could've done wrong. :bang head::bang head: I just did the Dano starter clutch mod and put everything back together. (84 VR Initially the starter would only click and nothing else - so loosened the side panel (by the crankshaft bold) and turned the engine manually a couple of times and then the starter kicked in. The starter brushes were also changed and the whole thing cleaned as I had the starter clutch apart anyway. The problem now is that the crankshaft bolt starts to loosen itself as the starter turns the motor over. Used new gaskets from Dano and a very light coating of sealer as recommended by the local Yamaha dealer. Did I miss some step along the way in putting it back together ? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.