Jump to content

cmiles3

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    269

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by cmiles3

  1. cmiles3
    I read that Wingers are coming to Tulsa for the next couple of years; Wing Ding? Stop & say hi.
  2. cmiles3
    depends on the type of roofing used. Was this the rolls where they mopped the asphalt on the roof, then laid out the roll? Did they use hot asphalt or cold asphalt cement? Or was this the rubberized rolls, where they lay down the rolls, then heat them with flame? You can put a bandaid patch over the leak, if you know where it's coming in. Scrape off the gravel or take of the top layer over the leak, clean it, apply rubberize asphalt cement, put a layer of roofing felt over the patch, apply a larger size layer of cement (4" wider all around) another layer of felt, and a third layer (wider than the 2nd by another 4") and another layer of felt. Use the felt with the small aggregate on it (like shingles) for the final layer- this provides resistance to the sun that cracks the asphalt. It's the asphalt that seals the roof; the felts just hold everything together. Wear old cloths, shoes & gloves. You'll probably want to throw them away after you're done. Don't sit on the couch before changing, and you don't want to take a ride on the bike after without changing.
  3. cmiles3

    wobble

    cmiles3 replied to treeman's topic in General Tech Talk

    Have you checked the tires and bearing? Pressure, tread separation, loose axle... Check the threads shown at the bottom of this screen.
  4. cmiles3
    I had an issue with my tail lights a couple of years ago. I thought it was a fuse, but it turned out to be the fuse holder. The metal socket at one end looked OK, but after fiddling with it, one side snapped off. The metal was fatigued, & cracked enough that the fuse was a little loose. The tail lights would quit working until I checked the fuse, then would work for a while. Check your fuse box. There is a replacement fuse box that allows you to use the new blade style fuses. It costs $20 or so, but may fix your problem, if it's the fuses. If you pull the seat & trunk, you can access the tail light wiring. Look for pinched wiring or nicks in the insulation where it's been rubbing against something. Shorts make for short bulb life.
  5. cmiles3
    I'd say something about a leopard changing it's spots, but I don't remember the Kipling quote. I'd not associate with him again, and let his calls go unanswered. Some people count coup by how many times they can get away with something, and many brag about it when drinking with their buddies. I try to judge people by their actions, not what they say (or say they intended to do). It's easy to say anything to cover a past wrong, but if they're not willing to fix it, or demonstrate in actions they changed, they're not really sorry, nor are they likely to avoid repeating their petty crimes. But if his bike shows up in your shop, file a mechanic's lien on it immediately. Then start charging storage fees, until it reaches the value of the bike; at that point you can try to sell the bike to cover the late payments.
  6. cmiles3
    I guess mine work- but they're sitting in the garage. They came with my bike, but I pulled them off soon after I got it. Your description of how the deer react to your bike is the same reaction I get from deer to my bike, without whistles. That's how deer react when they see a threat. Problem is, the momma & the 1st baby aren't the ones that get you, since you see them. It's the 2nd baby, or the buck following the momma during deer season. I've nailed 2 deer, with my Safari van and Ford Explorer, without whistles. Saw both of them, slowed enough to avoid killing them, but still took hard hits from them. Don't assume you are safe because you can avoid the ones you see; there's usually at least one you can't see, following those on the road or shoulder.
  7. cmiles3
    Just changed mine with stock NGK's today. It's been at least 4 years & 40,000 miles; don't know when the PO changed them last. They looked ready to run another 4 years; gap was correct, light tan color. Only issue I spotted was one of the boots looked funky; wires & boots next?
  8. cmiles3
    They serve food at Hooters?
  9. cmiles3
    Problem- coordinates give you an object on a flat surface. The earth is curved, so you need a way to translate coordinates between the real world and the mathematical world. Surveyors are artists, and get paid for practicing their art. The description is tied to known points; a corner or other marker. Without that point the description does you no good. Surveys are cheap if you have a problem. If there's no problem, don't worry about it. For plots that small, the corners should be easy to find. They usually use metal stakes, so a metal detector will come in handy. You'll need a copy of the survey; it should be available at your county clerk's office. Reason? Sometimes the metal stakes are offset from the corners- pavement, creeks, other obstructions... the markers and locations are shown on the survey record.
  10. cmiles3
    The best gun in the world won't help if you can't reach it when they come in the door or window. Are you prepared to carry a loaded weapon in your home? If not, where will you keep it, and where will you be when you need it? And will you pull the trigger? If you don't use it, it's likely to be used against you. Do you want to be in a firefight with your loved ones in the house? Decisions. You need to think them through, before you need the weapon. Go to some home defense training, and make your choice. If you want a handgun, try a shop that has a range and will let you test fire a few pistols.
  11. cmiles3

    Deer

    cmiles3 replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    Lots of deer, but hunting areas are hard to come by. I can pick off 3 or 4 from my yard most days, but my neighbors would call the sheriff. Private lands are off limits or leased; public lands are good for about 2 or 3 days before they're overrun and the deer spooked. The best places to go are the state parks; lots of deer, browsing on the golf courses. Need a special hunt permit, usually bows only.
  12. cmiles3
    Boy, this topic generates a lot of heat- can we use it to produce electricity? FYI, DOT adopts the standards, and the manufacturers hire independent testing labs to certify their products. Liability keeps them from certifying their own products; this way they spread the risk of huge damages in court. SNELL has a more rigorous test; some question the applicability of their methods to protecting your brains. The helmets hold up better, but do they reduce G's by enough? There's been some others test this, but nothing has come of it. Not likely to settle the helmet/ freedom to ride issues here. It's good that we tolerate each other well enough to listen, even as we poke each other's hot buttons. Let's ride- but wear a helmet. I'm another repeat survivor providing proof they work.
  13. cmiles3
    I've got the same problem. I was looking at the system and came to the same conclusion; need to bleed it. It's enough play that the cruise control kicks off if I'm riding against a stiff wind, or a truck passes in the other lane.
  14. cmiles3
    Dude, you need a lawyer. Contact your insurance agent first- your policy may include uninsured motorist coverage, which makes them responsible for costs over what the liable driver's insurance covers. They may elect to pursue the claim or not- if not, you're out the deductible part of your claim, but they'll cover the rest of the gap. You also have the third party's insurance to cover costs. Not sure if you can get to them or not. Their info should be in the police report. You should consider hiring a lawyer. Depending on the medical costs, he'll want 1/3 of whatever he collects. It may not be worth it for you. He'll try to increase the collected amount by including pain & suffering damages; in my accident, that was nearly $100,000. That covered his 1/3. Make sure you include lost wages, etc. If you used annual or sick leave for the medical care, missed days of work, etc. this is a loss that is covered by insurance.
  15. cmiles3
    Lots of good advice. Your particular problem wasn't riding on gravel, but stopping on gravel. Sounds like you were looking at traffic, not looking straight ahead while stopping. If you do that, you'll lean the bike as you slow; when the front wheel skids while leaning, you found out what happens. This is a bad habit, that you can get away with on dry pavement- but it will bite you when traction is poor (ask me how I know). Slow down before stopping; use lower gears and stay off the front brake- tough to do with Ventures with linked brakes. Keep it straight up, pointing straight ahead- this gives you a few nano seconds to regain traction before it slides out from under you. If you look at the place you want to stop, this will help. But don't look at the mud puddle or you'l end up there instead. Rode 20 miles of dry gravel roads yesterday; if you maintain speed 10-15 mph, the gyro effects of the spinning wheels will keep you upright, even as the wheels wander from side to side, following ruts, slipping sideways off gravel. Soft conditions are tougher; deep gravel, loose sand, mud. Best to stay out of those. Potholes are bad. Really bad. When faced with no other choice, try riding on the line that skirts the edges of the potholes. It's usually harder, drier, and smoother than riding through the middle. Ruts are bad. Deep ruts are really bad. Maintain your speed, try gearing down, stay off the brakes, climb out when you can with a slow steady throttle. Curves are OK, but now is not the time to practice peg scraping. If the gravel rolls out from under your tires while in a dramatic lean, you're going to scrape something higher than your pegs. Maintain speed, but slow enough to make the curve in a more upright position than you typically use on dry pavement. Conditions change in short distances; packed, hard surface, followed by rutted, potholed sections, followed by deep gravel, back to hard packed- expect the worst, and ride that way.
  16. cmiles3
    I'd go for that, but I'm not close enough. Would it fit in the passenger seat on my '87 Venture?
  17. cmiles3
    After my wreck, I had to get a lawyer involved- the insurance company was known to be a hard case, and the adjuster working my claim was also known for his aggressive tactics. They did not try to settle quickly, but chose to wait and see if I'd get nervous and offer to settle for a low value. I ended up accepting a settlement about 7 months after the accident, and got the check (the part my lawyer didn't keep) two months later. I used the local papers to put a value on my '84. I showed them that the replacement cost would be about $3500 based on sellers' listing prices, and they went with that. Of course, the bulk of the claim was in the personal injury portion- medical costs, pain & suffering, etc. If they want to be tough, let them know you have an appointment with a neurologist to check out a pain in your neck that showed up after the accident... then get an appointment. Coincidentally, almost 4 years after the accident, I have a pain in my neck...
  18. cmiles3
    And I got soaked. Almost home, tried to detour around the storm, but it exploded. On the south edge, heading south, I couldn't outrun it. Here's the route I planned: http://tinyurl.com/6bbwou I abandoned the route at Jay, and headed south to Locust Grove to miss the storm. As soon as I turned south, the heavens opened up. Lightning, rain, wind... I stopped to pitch all my pocket contents in the trunk and don my jacket. I resumed until I reached Locust Grove, then stopped for an early supper until the storm passed. After supper, I headed west until I saw more lightning ahead, then turned north at Inola, to get back to my original route. As I danced between raindrops on the final leg, I saw downed power lines. If I do this ride again, who's in?
  19. cmiles3
    I did a similar repair on my '87 trunk. I used fiberglass cloth & ABS cement. I patched it last year, and it's still solid- close to 10,000 miles on the patch. I have used Plastex to fill gaps with missing ABS; it works as advertised. Do the fiberglass patch first, then use Plastex to fill holes & gaps. It took me a couple of evenings before it was ready to mount. I started by cleaning the plastic with thinner. After it dried, I applied ABS cement, then fiberglass. Wet the fiberglass with cement first. Then multiple coats of ABS cement, to fill the voids in the fiberglass. The cement sets up fast, so it helps to have the patches precut. Wear plastic gloves.
  20. cmiles3

    I'm home. Amy's gone, to Italy with her mother. Been riding some; took a nice trip to Eureka Springs Sunday. May try to ride the Pig Trail on Saturday.

  21. cmiles3

    Question

    cmiles3 replied to Black Owl's topic in Watering Hole

    No. For all legal purposes, a yellow light is the same as a red light. If you enter the intersection on yellow, you failed to obey a traffic control device. I you have an accident there, you'll get a ticket. For all the yellow light runners, a lot of intersections have gone to 4 way red for a short period to replace the safety period a yellow light provides.
  22. cmiles3
    There's a bypass diverter, that circulates a portion of the coolant through the engine without going through the radiator. If you set it wrong, it causes problems. I don't think mine is set right. Read this in another post, so a search may find the thread with the correct settings.
  23. cmiles3
    For wind protection, wraparound style safety glasses work well. I usually go for the larger lenses, usually the one piece lens. The goggle style with rubber or foam strips help cut down on the wind with a smaller profile. They come with hard temples or straps, or both. Many come with interchangeable lenses; clear and dark are the usual choices, but there are others. Look in a sporting goods store for shooting glasses. Lots of clear, amber and other shades available that provide good wind protection. They're usually rated for ballistic protection. For ballistic protection, look for the "ballistic" notation on the glasses. It's a higher grade of protection; will stop faster moving objects than will safety glasses, but not bullets. They're required wear for soldiers in a combat zone; testing is to a higher standard than safety glasses. So your Oakleys really are "bumble bee" resistant- unless he's flying faster than the speed of sound. Currently wearing a pair of Wiley-X 10's, courtesy of Uncle Sam.
  24. cmiles3
    Before you spend a bundle, buy a Walmart bead seat cover. Strap it on with bungees, and ride it for a week or two. You can see if it helps. Not only does it help me, it keeps me cooler & drier. I think the beads keep your butt dry, minimizing chafing, which adds to your discomfort. I also have a backrest, which helps by allowing me to change positions- sit upright for a while, then lay back for a while. I've used this for several dozen 400 mile days, and one marathon 700 mile day. On my daily commute, the cooling makes a noticeable difference after sitting at a stop light for a minute or two. Looks like an old hippie rides my bike, says Amy. But it works, and only cost me $10. I even put one on the riding lawnmower, and she notices the difference. If you like it, then you can pick out a nicer one or cut yours down to size.
  25. cmiles3
    No, I don't think you should buy it... you should sell it... as a parts bike... I'll give you $500.
×
×
  • Create New...