rbig1

well did the seafoam. haven't changed the plugs but will. wiring has mostly been updated starter wires. fuse boxes. main wiring and fuse assy. actually one can seafoam to two gal fuel. drained two carbs screws on other two are majorly stripped, id say never to be again. little particles 3to 4 grains max. igntec installed. tac never dropped out.

rick I cant go past 3300 so if you want it go for it when it passes that point.

well I'll start at the beginning. was riding the bike harder than I ever had. stopped at intersection fast. wouldn't rev had to twist throttle four times. I drove the rest of day no problems. except that idle had dropped off big time. fueled up that night. next day rode bike back home 133miles. when you would slow down could hardly get going again. I just made it home. died and restarted would not rev at all. missing had to have choke to idle. fuel pump was hammering. pulled line off pump very little fuel would pump. so I changed fuel cock was broken now I can shut off fuel. filter was in bad shape replaced. installed different pump. have fuel now. still wont rev. the air filter looked terrible changed. sprayed around carbs with engine running nothing changed. removed yics chambers and plugged with clevis pins in hoses. sprayed every thing while running no change. any ideas don't want to pull carbs without figuring out what is causing the problem. would diaphragms cause this big of a problem.

thank you. I tested it the correct way and all is fine with it. so that leads me back to carbs. the other site had a nice tec article for rebuilding. I am worried cant get two drain screws loose no drive head left on them. will they survive when torn down. going to set down and memorize as much as I can

well I need a set for my 83 royal. tested connector on left side just like two not there no meter movement the other 33.9 there is only one 6 gang connector with one left blank.

looking at a 99 on ebay probably out of my league cant figure out how u-all post stuff and I cant post jack... ebay number 321491825782 the only way I could get this is steal it prob.

had one with a 304 it was a cj5 watch around tail lights. the dirt builds on bolts and rust from bottom side out. clean that area underside and seal. other than that total fun. blast to drive. had mine on two wheels a few times be careful bumpy turns.

west of davenport is the Walcott truck stop. promoted as the biggest in usa. lots of trinkets and such your mom would prob like that. its big. across the interstate is a cb radio repair and sells shop. bikes not running right now at the parts house mercy at shipping so I cant go anywhere far truck eats gas. jumers casino in rock island and Milan seams to be peoples favorite one.. not me I might as well give my money away cant win for nothing. wife does but not me. I live below davenport in muscatine

those are fuel inj bikes . or am I wrong

well ordered pump from partsgeek total of 46.58 they had 8 in stock and that included shipping. that's cheaper than oo I messed -up. hope it works just got rid of all old parts from cars.

never thought about hole in fuel line. hole in filter would do same thing. well just came in from changing fuel valve and filter same problem. no pressure after pump just atmosphere flow. I forgot to say ordered Honda civic pump looks the same if I remember tec write up says a little bigger around. some one figured this out before. hope it worked for them. been in this site for a long time. at least I can shut off fuel now. why plastic knob??? going to have to make a tool for on off turning or this one will end up the same. and on another note they had a pole and asked if anyone had reserve on bike. well it turns out I don't just cant read. it said fuel not res. could be glasses or big dummy wearing them. what is your vote... on second thought. took pump apart clean inside so that little diaphragm gave up probably. I ordered pump online one will surely show up .

well ordered a fuel pump. took two days. went to pick it up they forgot to order it. ordered it again. two more days. woops sent it to wrong store. that's your local o o store for ya. take two more days. checked all other parts houses in area. only place local that could find right pic of one. all others want to sell straight through design. called local yama shop no one in usa has one but japan had 4 for 375. each. so do I wait two more days or order off of internet today and have it in two days. also in the tec section fuel filter 33011. had one on bike leaking where glued together. yama shop sold me a aftermarket filter for 4.95 its thick plastic and has a metal band on seam. cant run bike till I have enough fuel to keep up with draw. dies and fuel pump is hammering but not pumping enough flow to keep up.

you might as well join. these guys helped me bring mine back from the dead. there are some really good tec articles and upgrades also and parts manuals repair manuals etc.

don't know if you know. to operate the class compressor ign switch has to be in acc. put class in manual and dump all air out of front forks. and by the way class is slower than a snail have to hold buttons and wait. I run the front forks a 7psi and the rear at 70 psi. but the back is high as 2up all the time. since you just got your toy get seafoam in fuel quick. also there are drain hoses on each carb takes a Phillips driver to open.

well mine is dead again today no forum:bang head:

are you talking side to side or up and down. has a piece of faring gotten lodged by the neck because bike fell over or did you compress the forks all the way and there stuck.

well I cant get on any forum either. top bar is there blank down below. so its not your computer. freebird out there

well ordered a motion pro manometer hope it works don't have cash for a better one. I think tec write up will help do this as never done this kind before. only done British car duel carbs with 12.00 tool.

5/16 clevis pins a bought 1 1/4 long in original hoses. pushed in real tight prob never get them back out.

well I ran the bike harder than I ever had. kept running better and better. then I ran it low on fuel on trip home. that is what started all this. well I changed the fuel filter it was time. replaced the other three coils. cleaned all wire plugs. removed yics. fixed fan relay. now the bike will start right up. when you turn off choke cant rev smooth. stumbles. need to set carbs never done this. don't have tool either. don't think I could ride it this way. any one close. also my eyes are burning after running bike a short time. after having all plugs in wiring loose cms display shows tail, brake, and brake fluid, and as always oil. lol my biggest problem is carbs. could only drain two carbs no water 5 grains of whathaveya. help

anyone know of aftermarket pump and filter part numbers. looks like you have to take tire off. hope not cant get bike on center stand. cant pull backwards. let alone pull tire off. I got one coil off with out removing faring so I will try to remove it with tire installed.

well i cant get bike to run with out full choke. wont rev sound like running on two. started to drain fuel bowls. number one drained couple pieces of sand out. number two hose is off screw is in so tight wont move. number three hose is off wont move stuck also. number four screw opened, no fuel, tried to put small wire in hose went in and stopped half inch in. reached behind holder there was a bulge. pulled hose out of holder well what do ya know a roller bearing is shoved in there. I spent good money to have them rebuilt a year and a half ago. my question is how big of a flow should I have with pump running. the two that drained seamed like a weak supply fuel. never stopped for fuel coming home from up north. problem started the next day. and pump is louder. so I got p*&^^ off going to fix all little problems. changed the other coils that I never bothered to change don't think they were bad. one wire had a white ring by coil. took every connector apart and added die grease to them if they showed green cleaned. took all non working cb parts out. did I mention replaced fan relay. added compressor for cheep horns. removed ycs vacuum tanks. found my rattle that started on long ride, back heat shield on exhaust. im not happy:bang head:

I replaced the relay. I can actually hear the fan run now. the relay had a red composite plug on wiring. and the wire colors you gave me are correct. green was coming from the relay. plug wire ends looked clean. I had bought some relays off flee bay. as no one bid on them so I got them cheep last year. good thing I did put three of them in bike. then bike would not run. lol. got one bad one, ign relay. blue plug. so put old one back in. I can hear the fuel pump when turning bike on. before had to listen real close. found and fixed dash rattle. prariehammer I wired the extra switch on the sensor, used splitter terminal. both systems still work. if it functions correct will remove switch. I hope it does don't like farmerizing. the best part rolled over 30,000 today im relieved its fixed want to ride not work on it. need to get highway pegs.

well bike was running warm in the small cities. I had added a switch to activate the fan ie. ground it. I cant hear the fan but switch seamed to work till today. stopped where im staying. shut off bike turned switch back on no fan. flipped the switch quite a few times then it would work part of the time I have about 137 miles to get home all highway should cool good enough to get home. any one know what the relay on the 83 looks like. none of them are in there rubber holders any more. any after market relays fit. want to get it fixed fast as want to ride with new friends if I have to will wire in a total wiring circuit temporary

ran fine 139 miles the wing gust was 30mph according to weather man, rode straight north couldn't hardly keep her down. when riding west wind kept twisting my helmet didn't care for that. only saw one other rider. when I head back home should roll over 30000miles on od. o and I forgot best the fm radio ever worked.lol who knew just needed drown. I don't have headset just wally speakers:doh: