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Everything posted by Squeeze
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Bob, i'm not sure what you're saying there, but the Bracket for the rear Caliper doesn't move at all under braking, even if the front of the Rod is mounted to the Frame instead of the Swing Arm, the Force on the Bracket under braking will go through the Rod and move the Frame, but not the Bracket in Relation to it's original Position.
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Congrats Gary, impressive Job you've done there. I gotta admit, even though i had a yellow BMW 630 in the Past, i'm not too fond of it on the 1Gen. But you have to like the Color and you do, so i'm happy for you. Outstanding Job !! !!
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Well, Jack, I completely agree with you on that Part. How could get Air out of the Line when the Seal of the Piston is beyond both, feeding and Pressure Relief Hole. The Air won't come out into the Reservoir until you release the Lever, then, when the Lever and the Piston are unblocing both Bores, the Air will come out of the Line.
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Gary, one extra Tip for you. If you have enough Room in front of the Rod of the rear Caliper to connect the Bracket to the Frame instead of bolting it to the Swing Arm, you'd gain some Stability under rear braking. The pull Rod would pull the Frame down, straigtening and the Bike and Chassis. A clamp-on Style Bracket to mount a longer Rod would get it done.
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Gary, you did a outstanding Job, Congrats !! !! :happy34::happy34::happy34::happy34: The only Thing left now is to have them Brackets black anodized. Will look much better on your Bike and black will help dissipating the Heat a little. You're already set, the Future could bring you four Collars, four longer Bolts and two 320 mm Rotors. I'm looking forward to have mine.
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Well, i made made my Case already, i have nothing to add. Let's agree to disagree. This works for me, works even on my '99 Max who has been tough on bleeding the Clutch and the rear Brake since i got her. I hang a five kg Weight on the Brake Pedal and after three Nights, it's going from almost no Pressure to firm Line. The Guys in the Racing Business do it every Night. I'm sorry if it doesn't work for, for whatever Reason. Even when you say it can't work, the Air Bubbles i see coming up through through the first Bore on Lever Release is enough Proof for me. You often come up with Reverse Bleeding, it might work for you, it never worked that good for me.
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Condor, with all due Respect but you're wrong. It works. You're right about the Air can't escape as long as the Lever is pulled to the Handle Bar. The trapped Air will form bigger Bubbles and these will escape when you let the Lever loose the next Morning. The main Key here is, you need to make sure there's now Bow in the Line that goes above the Fluid Level in the Reservoir, the Steering should be place so that the Banjo Bolt should be at the highest Point AND there gotta be some hydraulic Pressure created in the Line when you pull the Lever. No Pressure means no Work is forcing the Bubbles in the Fluid to gather and elevate in the Line.
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Starter Clutch Removal
Squeeze replied to kevin5549's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I also use a Puller specific made for the Vmax Rotor. Then, I use a long 32 mm Box End Wrench to hold the Rotor in Place, mostly place a Block of Wood on the Floor underneath the End of the Wrench to hold it. Then i use a T-Handle on a 1/2" Socket and a 3 ft long Pipe to extend the Leverage. Works like Charm as long as the Puller is up to the Job. -
Shift shaft seal leaking???
Squeeze replied to ACE50's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I'd take a Look at the Engine Breather Assembly. If the Passage or teh Hose towards the Air Box is blocked, the Engine will create Pressure inside the Casing and this would put too much Stress on that little Oil Seal. Also, if you not carefull placing the Oil Seal over the Shift Shaft, you easily can damage the Lip on the new Oil Seal. I use a oiled plastic Bag over the End of the Shaft to prevent such Damage. Regarding removing the old Seal. It's easy to put one or two wood threaded Screws in the old oil Seal and wiggle it out.- 8 replies
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I use a hollow TX-25 on the Security Bolt. It's no wonder that you feel some extra Power when the Hose is kinked to a point where the Case Breather is tight. This creates Pressure inside the Casing and lead to more Pump Losses, costing Power.
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If there's already some Damage in the chrome Plating, you can dechrome such Parts by using an Ultrasonic Cleaner. I know this because we placed a hard-chromed Exhaust-Valve into a cheap chinese Ultrsonic Cleaner. to clean it up. After 20 Minutes in there, a small Dent in the Valve Seal Area has expanded to the Point that the Valve wasn'r good further use. We left it in the Cleaner for another Hour or so, the whole Area where the Valve Seal was having Contact with the Chrome was gone.
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Very serious thread "What can we make this do on a Venture"
Squeeze replied to dingy's topic in Watering Hole
You could either change the Angle or the Height of the Wind Shield with this Motor and the proper laid out Mechanic. -
It's here ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68898
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Anybody Upgraded Their Front Brakes?
Squeeze replied to bongobobny's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Lynn, I'd think Bob talks about his '09 Hannigan Trike. Using updated Calipers with their respective Master Cylinder and (at least semi-) floating 298 mm Rotors is the best Improvement without going too wild in Parts and Funds. -
Sounds pretty spot on for me. As Randy said, a taller Gear will hurt Fuel Consumption.
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Sorry, Mike, unfortunately no riding Time for me over the last three Months. But at least, the Cause of my Weak- and Illness was identified Thursday before Easter as a bad Tooth. I'm getting better better now, due to herbal Stock, but i have to undergo Dental Surgery someday the next 3 to 5 Weeks, 3 Days in Hospital. Definetely no funny Outlook for anybody, much more undesireable for me, but hey, i'll try getting over that. I have to.
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Just to make that clear: Nope, that german Bidder wasn't me !! :doh::doh:
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Ruffy, i'm quite sure you can expect the Mail Man as soon as you found a 14mm M/C and made a Deal with the, then former, Owner and payed for it. Polishing will remain unknown until you made it happen, but i'm quite sure, the Guy that did your stock M/C will be able to make it happen again.
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said the Man until he felt the Lever on his freshly aquired and mounted 14mm M/C.... :whistling:
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Come on, Jeff, don't hold back, bring it on !! !! Just make sure you're ready for the Echo :p:p On a serious Note, Don's absolutly right, we all do what we can. Small Number or big Numbers don't say much, it's the Effort which counts. Yes, i really wanted to have the Trailer and i wanted to give support. But, i'm a bit in a Pinch these Days too, so i had to cut down in obtaining my Chances to the lower End of the Range. In the End it doesn't matter, i just hope Dan's gonna be back to being able to work soon and making the Ends meet again by himself. I'm still so thankfull he's alive ...
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I'm really sad to hear that i didn't win the Trailer. :crying: I'm happy to read that Condor won it and what he said to do with with it. It's Kind of what i've done if i'd won ... :happy34::bowdown: I want to thank all of you who donated (that means you two Muffin's too) or put Money into the Raffle to help out my Brother from a different Mother and last, but certainly not at least, i want to thank Don for spending his Time in making this happen.
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Ruffy, did you change the front M/C from 5/8" to a 14 mm Piston ? Sounds like you didn't do that, because with a 14mm, you'll most likely change your Wording.
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Mike, i'm glad your Daughter is OK, sooner or later this SOB will get caught. Then we'll see how it goes from there ... I really think, the PD should be all over this. Placing Barb Wire across a Street is not an Infringement, it's a murder Case.