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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Most likely, you got a nasty copper/cole Collection inside the Stator Cover.
  2. Squeeze
    Looks like you're looking at at fried Stator soon. Is that 2.5 Volts on all three MEasurements or just between two Wires ?
  3. Squeeze
    Forget those db's. You should see the Needle between 10 and 20 Marks on the red AC Scale, that's where 15 should be at. If your "two Hash Marks" are the same as 10, there's a Problem.
  4. Squeeze
    I'm here, sorry, but i discuss a 2 Liter Motor for the 2Gen Max and different Clutch Upgrades for the 2Gen Max at the same Time i'm typing here with you and the others. Can't think about 14 db also ...
  5. Squeeze
    Stab another yellow(or white) Wire and take the first Reading. Then, leave the black Lead where it is at and stab the third Wire with the red Lead. Get the second Reading, then leave there and move the black where the red was first. That's the third reading.
  6. Squeeze
    Exactly, i opened the Clutch Cover on my '09 Vmax right after i got it and put Sealer on it. I had the the Cover off maybe 10 Times since, still using the very first Gasket.
  7. Squeeze
    Put the Silicone on the Gasket towards the Casing Side. It will stick to the Cover, but saves the Gasket most of the Times.
  8. Squeeze
    If the Signal Fuse is Ok, and the Fuse Holder is ok too, there's fair Chance that the Switch is dirty and/or the Contacts are corroded or something else went south. But i think it would be best if you concentrate on first Things first. Which means you need to check the AC Output of the Stator. You do that by setting the MM to 50 V AC and place the Leads between two of he three the white or yellow Wires coming from the Stator. Easiest place for you might be at the R/R Connector. You check each of the three Wires to the others, the Voltages should show arround 15 V when the Engine is on Idle. The Value isn't important, but the Voltages should nearly equal.
  9. Squeeze
    Gents, if your unhappy with the Way your 2Gen gets on in lower RpM, just put a Vmax Final Drive on and you mostliekly will be a happy Camper.
  10. Squeeze
    Black Probe goes to left Plug, Red Probe goes to the lower right Plug, set the MM to DC 50 V and put the red Probe to the Battery plus, the black Probe to Battery negative. Check the End to the Scales and look for the "50". Keep your Eye on that Scale on go back where Needle is and read the Value. You really need to watch the Polarity with that analog Meter. If you put it on backwards, you could fry the Coil of the MM.
  11. Squeeze
    If you let the Clutch Lever out slowly, there will be small Point where the Clutch slightly bites and the Lever could "vibrate" at said Point. Kind of as if a Clutch is picking. If you let the Lever go out beyond that Point, and that's question of under one Millimeter of Travel, the Clutch will start to engage. Sorry, can't describe it better than that. It's disturbing at first, but once your used to that, the Clutch is more defined than with the Wire in Place.
  12. Squeeze
    No, you don't have to have the Wire mounted. Your Clutch will feel a bit rough on the Transition Point between no Bite and a slight bit of Bite, but that's all.
  13. Squeeze

    My new Bike!!

    Squeeze replied to Dano's topic in Watering Hole

    Congrats my Friend, very glad to see you riding again soon.
  14. Squeeze
    Well, i've been out the wet too. I was asked from Member here if i could get him some Memorabilia from a former Brewerie over here. I asked around, found some really nice Things at a fellow Vmaxxers Basement, which he finally was willing to Part with, packed everything up nice and safe, as there where also some Beer Glasses in the Package, and asked a Friend to ship everything to avoid creating insane Shipping Cost. I paid the Beers (actually a Lot of them) for getting even with my Vmax-Buddy, paid shipping Costs and all Feedback i got back was the Question if i was the Guy who send the Package to him. I said, no, that's my Friend but i had have him ship this. Never ever heard back from the Member, not even a Word. We all know, things like that happen. It shouldn't, but it does. I for one, get over it and do it again next Time i've been asked. I had Lots of exactly the opposite Experiences here and elsewhere and that's what counting. We are seldom Breed and i for one, not only thank Don for making and keeping us the Room to gather here, but all Members, they all contribute in this (some also in that) Way, and it's making my Life better. So why should one bad Story make my Life miserable. I found Friends here, enjoy being here and that's what counts, the Rest doesn't matter to me.
  15. Squeeze
    I had my '09 of a Dyno last Sunday after i had the ECU upgraded, i have now 104 ft lbs at 2000 Rpm, 118 ft lbs everywhere above 3500, peak was 125 ft lbs. The Torque "Curve" is virtually flat. But you can only dream of 32 mpg imp. My rolling Average is 21.8 mpg US,allways riding hard. That would be ? around 27 mpg imp ? However, i wouldn't miss the Ride for the World. Unreal Power, riding this Bike beats everything you can buy. Period.
  16. Squeeze
    I gotta admit, i'm stuck here. The Piston (Seal that is) clears both Holes, Fluid is in the Reservoir, with Movement of the Piston there should be created some Vacuum to suck Fluid in the Boring, in front of the Piston. not to mention Gravity, who alone should be able to fill the Bore. It's a Miracle.
  17. Squeeze
    Gary needs the Distance between inner Ears(or Tabs) where the floating Bracket mounts to, where the 100mm Distance can be measured, to the outer Edge of the Rotor and the Rotor Diameter. Since some Members already mounted the R1's to their 2Gen, it's safe to say, the standard mounted lue Star Style Caliper fits the 2Gen Fork and Rotor.
  18. Squeeze
    To me, it sound slike you're not getting Fluid from the Reservoir in front of the Piston. That may be because bith Holes, Feed as well as Pressure Relief Holes are plugged for whatever Reason. Maybe there went something wrong during the Rebuild of the Master, or there's Crud blocking the Holes. If you have the Master mounted on the Bike, you can look to the bottom of the Reservoir, there should be those two Holes to be seen. If you now move the Lever a little bit, you should see the Rubber Cup move with the Movement of the Lever, blocking both Holes one after another. The Feed is relative big, you should be able to see the Piston moving and blocking the Hole, the Pressure Relief Hole is tiny, most likely, you'll probabyl see only a dark Shadow coming and going as you move the Lever. If you move the Lever and see no change, there's something wrong with the Piston Area or the Lever. You didn't change the Lever to another whilst the Rebuild ?
  19. Squeeze
    Carl, the Fork Legs should never feel bound, stuck or restricted in their Movement. The Fork could be restricted in their upwards travel, after the "Dive" by holding the front Brake tight or, probably by the Anti-Dive System, but if you let the Brakes go, it should come up right away, without any help of Movement. What i noticed when i mounted my Condor Brace, i t jsut didn't wanted to go in it's Place. That's ok for the Part, it should have the tightest Tolerance, allowing no Play and Movement. To get it mounted right, i had to loosen the Front Axle. But if i had just put the Brace in and then tightened down both, the Bolts of the Brace and the Axle, the Fork would have bind. I opened up the Rest above the Brace, tightened everything down from bottom to the upper Fork Yoke and was a really Camper since then. Those Pinch Bolts allow some Admustment of the whole Assembly. Not a very funny Job on the 1Gen, but i like a decent Ride, so sorry, but no binding Forks for me.
  20. Squeeze
    Sounds a bit like your Forks are a little bit binding. I'd put the front End in the Air, loosen every Bolt from the bottom (Axle) to the Top(upper Pinch Bolts) and check and or adjust the Head Bearings. Then tighten everything down with their respective Torque, starting at the Axle and work towards the upper End.
  21. Squeeze
    Gary, my Vmax Guys over here have made Brackets for numerous different Calipers and Rotor Diameters, but most of them use the 150mm/6xM8 Bolts like we have on the 1Gen. I myself, have never looked at the rear Brake, but if you'd interested and give me the Specs you're planning on, i'll look around. As i think about it, i believe, i have a rear underslung/Frame connected Kit for a 1Gen Vmax lying around somewhere, i could look for that too.
  22. Squeeze
    Here's to follow-up Thread http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69124
  23. Squeeze
    I got one for this wonderful Vmax ....
  24. Squeeze
    Gary, you can expect simliar Measurements as i gave you. The early R1-Style Calipers are a bolt on to the 2Gens Ventures. I'm not sure what Rotors they use, i think 2Gens use 298 mm Rotors.
  25. Squeeze
    Gary, of Course, i saw that you're using a Vmax Setup there in reverse Mounting Position. A german Vmax Specialist is fabricating such Relocation Kits, using a Clamp-On Bracket to the Frame on the front End of the Rod. Sorry, no Pics available. The Guys who sport this Setup all said they're satisfied with the Outcome. If you're a front Brake Guy, you won't get much help out of such a Setup. I thought i mention it anyway. When i modify FJR-Rims to fit in the 1Gen Vmax, i have to mill down the Vmax Caliper Bracket from 30 mm to 19 mm. Great to hear about your first Verdict. You'll love the Setup and there still some Room for further Upgrade, pretty easy available.
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