Squeeze

Yes Sir, that's correct. The blue ones are fixed. The green Circles shown the PAJ#1, which is removable. Vmax is a #90 there.

That's right and formally, it's not an Error. These Style of Jets are commonly used Main Jets from Mikuni, thus the Text is not wrong.

You'll probably watch much more than just your Smart Phone or Apps once the Government decides to stop using Cash, everything will go through electronic Cards. Sweden decided to do so, other Countries will follow sooner or later.

and the Vaccum Port in the Manifolds are clear and open ?

Well, it sounded like my Quotes are uncalled for and not good enough to be posted or answered, so got back into my Corner and keep staying there. :250: Besides that, I'm also flooded with Work and several other Things i got to get done immediately, not much spare Time or visit the Forums. Feels like being four Weeks behind and no way of catching up any. Been like that since Jan. 7th....

On a Vmax, it's somewhat a step up in Fuel Consumption when you change from stock Wire to 17" radials. I had it on my '99 for a while, i didn't care for the lowered rpm, because it inflicted with the get-go under any other Circumstances. With stock Tires, it makes the Vmax kanda lame ... I have a Vmax final Drive on my '93 VR, like it very much. :whistling:

Sounds pretty much like the Ball is mia

Brad, i'm looking for the upper outer left Fairing, '93 maroon Colour preferred, left front Blinker, both front and rear left Crash Bars and right Passenger Floorboard (or the Rubber Inserts of it). I'm not looking for like "brand new", but i happen to have scraped up Parts already laying there. Could you take a look in your Pile of Parts for me ?

The Fuel Pump Relay won't allow more than five Seconds if there's no Signal from the Pickup Coil, so what you see is normal Behaviour. To me it sounds very much like the R/R is shot and probably fried your Battery. Other Electronics may be hurt also, but that would be a bit out of the ordinary.

Well, with the way you say it, i'd better check everything what could be wrong within the Issue at Hand before answering a Question. I was reffering to YOUR Question, by the Way, at least i understood it that Way, when you wrote "And then your instructions are unclear. 90*+ 70 more *? what still C'clockwise? 90+70 in addition to the first 90?" I'll shut up now before i'll get carried away. Learn something new every Day.

My 90 ° Turn ? Please explain

Dang, looks great and impressive as always :thumbsup2:

Well, i can't say it for certain, but iirc, the Cams were facing in different Directions between the Cylinder Banks. That's not a major Question, because if you proceed as the Book says, the Positions are a given Fact. It's not that hard to follow, just do it like it should be done and you're good in that Matter. Manuals and such are here to find, look under First Gen Service Manuals ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=90

Shall we place a "Swear Pot" for Terms like "while you're in there" or "since you're already" somewhere ?

The O-Ring of Thermostat Cover and the flat rubber Seal beneath it are also well known to leak in cold Temps. Also the two O-Rings of the Water Ellbow. I for one, just ignore it and wait until the Weather gets warmer and watch the Leaks, most likely they go away until next Winter. If i'm in there, for whatever Reason, i replace everything.

1-3-2-4 The Link to download the Manual are somewhere here in the Board. Snoop around.

Well, it's not that dramatic, It's 90° for the next Cylinder and additional 70° when then the next Cylinder is on the other Cylinder Bank. 70 is the front/rear Cylinder Angle of this Motor. I'd highly suggest you proceed as it's in the Book. Otherwise, you'll end up with an unkown Position of the Cam. Since the Spec say what the Gap should be at the given Position of the Cam, it'll most likely be a different Gap where you place the Cam on your own Ideas. If you have a hard Time finding the T-Marks on the Flywheel, you could also take out the Plug and feel Top Dead Center of the Cylinder carefully with a thin Piece of Wood or anything similar. Just take it easy in there and don't loosen Carbon Residue on the Top if the Piston.

Maybe the Link would work if you would put it into Code Tags ?

Ok, Rick, i'll go back into my Corner and shut up again ... :bowdown:

Watch out for the Bolts you use, the shiny one go to the outer Edges of the four Manifolds, the green ones to the other.

I'm sorry to say, but you are "the Issue", and that's also why you're a happy Guy... :stickpoke: :crackup::crackup: Sorry, i couldn't resist ....

Well Jonas, whatever you decide is ok for me !! :happy34: on a second Thought, you remember that even the red Baron was shot down ?

I'm sorry to hear about that Problem. I'm not fond of the Loctite and threaded Stud Idea in this Case. I fear the twisting Forces will be too hard on the small Thread of the Stud and will cause you Grief more sooner than later. I'd suggest a long Bore through the short, 2Gen End Shaft and use a long, high-grade Allen Head or Torx Bolt to connect the two Shafts. Even better if the End of the Shaft are at least, slightly, teethed. Bolt head could be Counter sunk to make it pretty hidden. To make a teethed connection, one could you use a Thread Chisel as a Pricker and use it in the Head Stock of the Lathe to "ream" the Teeth manually. Turn the Lathe Chuck for 30° or so and repeat. Not nice machine Work, but works and doesn't take too much Time if a Mill or a Tool isn't available. Excuse my bad Explanation, Machining specific english is not my Expertise, i hope you get the Idea. Other Idea would be to fabricate a special Clamp to enforce the Connection between the two Shafts and use clamping Force. If enough Space is available ....

I'm 100 Percent sure, the Pond Monster would love to have some extra Entertainment Equipment !!

1Gen Vmax Shifter Shaft is longer than anything, because it protudes through the Stator Cover.