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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Race Engine = Straight Gears YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS !!!!!!!!!!!!! :crackup: Seriously, I'm sorry for those Guys :255:
  2. Squeeze
    Just for GO :thumbsup2: Show is the Icing on the Cake ... btw ... here's News for V4 addicted ... http://www.starvmax.com/news/1-v-max-news/191-iconic-wins-show-finals
  3. Squeeze
    Yes, these are different, Industrial Numbers are 32005 X/Q and 32006 X/Q. Yes, there needs to be a Seal on the lower Bearing to keep the Road Grim out and the Grease nice and working. Just play nice and show him where the Carpenter left the Hole in the Wall ... :whistling: A 500 Suzuki ? What the H3ll is that ? A Starter Motor ?
  4. Squeeze
    Probably some Ring Free will give you the Compression back your missing now.
  5. Squeeze
    The Idea of the V-Boost is to have a small Venturi and fast Air passing through it when your riding and accelerate out of the lower Revs. Once the Revs are up, the V-Boost opens the second Passage and delivers more Mixture to each Cylinder than the single Carb could provide. If you make each Carb bigger to deliver more Mixture instead of the V-Boost, the Motor will fall flat on it's Nose when you try to accelerate from above Idle and probably never get up in a Range where the the Motor and Mixture Building is able to make any use out of the Amount of Mixture served. Not even to mention the Poor Mixture created by slow Air through the Venturi. Ask the Vmax Riders what the do to get their 40 or 42mm Flatsildes work, adjusting the Accel Pump is one Key to a working Setup. Most of them just give up ... Another Example is the 2Gen VMAX, the TB's are 48 mm for a 1670cc Motor. Combined with a fully tuned FlybyWire System and EFI Computer, the Motor is able to pull up from Idle up to 9.5k with vast Amounts of Torque and Power. When you replace the Electronics with a Wire, the Motor just falls flat on it's Nose.... This has been proven already for Street riding, a Race Engine is a whole other Story, but who wants to ride around with at least 7k and above ? This works because the Engineers even don't allow to Butterflies to open more than 35 Percent if the Revs are below 4.5 k. And above that, they still don't allow 100 Percent opening if the other Parameters don't fit the Circumstances, you can turn the Throttle whatever you want, the YCC-T and the GENICH just don't do it the Way you want. These are just the Laws of Physics and engineering Basics. You probably can outdo the Engineers, but you can't fool Physics. I agree, nowadays Motors are tuned to Things like Pollution and other, not necessarily "helpful" Rules and there are some Goals to achieve if you set those Rules aside. But don't underestimate the Amount of Research and Time you have to put into such Changes until you can say i got a better running or better performing Bike.
  6. Squeeze

    I passed!!

    Squeeze replied to Monty's topic in Watering Hole

    Congrats :thumbsup2:
  7. Squeeze
    I couldn't agree more. You'll loose much in Throttle Response and Torque on the low End if you shorten the overall Intake Lenght. Individual Filters (like Stage7) work, but you'll need to have the whole System tuned to these. I'd keep my Fingers away from the VR Box and mount a complete Vmax Airbox instead(with the Butterfly on the Top), it's a bit larger from front to rear, but you would gain through this and with smaller Battery it's a snap and you'll probably have Room enough left for placing the TCI there.
  8. Squeeze
    Well, I'm not going to discuss this Issue to the Lenght it has been before, but my ever first Question is, Why in the World would Yamaha go with a 4-Carb Setup when a single Carb-Setup would work as good and would be much cheaper too ? Why are they still hassling with 2 or 4 Throttle Bodies on the EFI-Bikes ?
  9. Squeeze
    Check the Resistor Area in the Caps for Corrosion. Most likely you'll have a weak Contacts there. You can look into the Connector where the Plug goes in and see a large brass Part with two Slots. Take a large enough Screwdriver to catch both Slots at one Time and unscrew it. There's Resistor and a small Sprind inside, both might show Corrosion at the Contact Points. Clean off the Crud, put some dielectric Grease inside and put it back togehter.
  10. Squeeze
    Yes, that's what i was trying to say. Thanks for translating ...
  11. Squeeze
    That's OK, the Notches on the Washer are designed like that to keep the Washer as close to the inner Diameter, not tumbling.
  12. Squeeze
    I'm green with Envy !! A LOT !!!!! Looks great !!! :happy34::bowdown: I wish i had the Time to do that, but i sure wish you Gary, that you won't have time to this again anytime soon after you finished this one !!
  13. Squeeze
    I ran Commanders on my '93 VR. I liked them a Lot except the rear seemed to be somewhat loose in the wet. They gave me good and controllable Drifts, though. :D You gotta keep in Mind, my Expectation on Grip Level are somewhat higher, since I'm always running recent "superglue's" on my other Rides... Since they were on the Bike when i bought it, i have no Idea how the Mileage on the Commanders was. I would have gone for another Set, but these are not allowed in Germany on the VR (no Paperwork) and i wouldn't want to go through another major Hassle and half Fortune spent to get them inspected/permitted, like on my turbo and the '99 Max. Changed to ME 880(these are certified here)....
  14. Squeeze
    Torque Setting usually apply only to dry Threads if not noted else. Since this Bolt is going into a oiled Environment, you usally can divide the Settings of a fitting !! Torque Wrench (1/4") by Ten. I guess, you better develop a steep learning Curve with your Wrist-o-Meter... :bluesbrother:
  15. Squeeze
    Sounds like the Switch Lever or the Contacs thereof are sticking.
  16. Squeeze
    Please, do us and yourself a Favour and NOT use 1/2" Torque Wrench on a 7.2 ft.lbs Bolt. Even IF your Torquie is able to have a Range down there, it's not what you want to use, because the it's only a guess and the lower End of the Range. Just use your 1/4" Wrench and some common Sense.
  17. Squeeze
    No need to undo the Nut. Compress the Spring and get them C-Washers out.
  18. Squeeze
    Not that i know off, Geardata is Freeware, normally used to calculate Chain/Sprocket Gearing for Race Track. Therefore you have to modify the the primary Values to get it right with the Tire and different final Drives. But it's all in metric. No english Translation, nor imperial Values. But you could do that with an Excel Sheet rather easy also. Only the Shiftmark (the small column) might be a Problem with Excel Diagram.
  19. Squeeze
    That sounds pretty much like the Stator. But the R/R could also be the Culprit. Take a Look at both Units and their Connectors. Especially the three Wire Connector between the Stator Wires and the R/R is known to develop a bad Habit of Contact Resitance and this might be a Problem too.
  20. Squeeze
    How low is "low" ??
  21. Squeeze
    If you put a 2Gen Tranny in, the fall back is to 5200 from 8000 RpM when shifting from 1st to 2nd Gear. That should you put in a good Range ...
  22. Squeeze
    Or 303 km/h(188 mh) with the VR final Drive
  23. Squeeze
    That'll be 272 km/h(169 mph)...
  24. Squeeze
    Here's the edited Data off the Shop Manuals and Pegscraper's Posting:
  25. Squeeze
    And to answer your Question in the first Post. I always use Motor Silicone or Sealer on the O-Rings even if you put new O-Rings in. Doesn't hurt anything.
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