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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Have you ever heard about the Don't ask/don't tell Policy. Take a Look at E-fishin-C Sig ... :crackup:
  2. Squeeze
    Have some Spinache handy, because the Person who's helping can be in serious Trouble. Getting the Springs back in can take some Time, having a Person holding the Bike upright in the Meantime can be a cruel Task. Mounting the Springs while the Stand is in down Position isn't funny too.
  3. Squeeze
    Oh, I'm sorry, my bad ... For Venture Valves, please use Venture Clearances
  4. Squeeze
    Vmax Clearance is the Way to go. The Vmax Valves are different smaller Stem and therefore expand a little more when the Engine's running.
  5. Squeeze
    You need to position the Master in a Way that the Banjo Bolt End isn't facing upwards.
  6. Squeeze
    I'm still envy !! !! It's not too hard do to a Chain Drive Conversion when you have a Tool Shop with Mill, Lathe, Welder and all the other Stuff mostly needed, but it's a Time Consuming Job and you have to have great Knowledge about what you're doing there. For me, changing from a nearly non-Maintenance Subject to a highly demanding System, just because of gaining 15 Ponies or so and the Ability to choose my Preferences with Sprockets is NOT worth the Effort. I'd mount a EFI System at the same Cost instead and find those 15 Horses there easily... :whistling:
  7. Squeeze
    Why don't you just go with the Vmax Data. It's the same Motor, ok, different Cams, but you sure won't hurt anything when going where the Power is.
  8. Squeeze
    Clean the Starter Button and it's Contacts. There's an Opener inside which turns the front Light off while starting. If teh Button can't return to the normal Position or the Contacts are corroded, no front Light will come up.
  9. Squeeze
    arhhh ...wait a Minute ... Partshalk lists the Bolts with 0.99 each ... http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=556078&category=motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2007&fveh=12911 I agree Yamaha is crazy, but maybe your Dealer needs to Cover his Heating Bill with your Sales ?
  10. Squeeze
    Cross check your Gauge with a DMM and if the Results still stands, take a deep Look into the respectice Connections of Stator, Rectifier, Battery and Ground Connections. 12.3 to 12.5 Volts at highway Speed are not enough to keep everything healthy in the long Shot. There's at least 1 Volt missing to normal Operation.
  11. Squeeze
    Sounds like there's still Air trapped inside the Line. I guess you did all this work with the Master mounted in it stock Place ? I recommend mounting the Master temporary to a Tube or spare Handle Bar and secure this to the Bike in a Way which directs all Lines going straight upwards. At stock Position the Banjop Bolt End of the Master is facing upwards and creates an Air Sack right inside the Banjo Bolt. I had this happen often, especially with Clutch Masters and empty Lines. I mount the Master to a spare Handle Bar, bleed everything with a Mighty Vac or my compressed Air Tool and then pull the Lever to the Handle Bar over Night. It doesn't matter much if you have the Lid on or not. But you need to have some Pressure in the Line, this Pressure is the Force which drives the Air Bubbles upwards into the Reservoir over Time. No pressure, no Force.
  12. Squeeze
    Gary, look at #4 and # 32 in the Parts Sheet. http://www.partshark.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=1156&section=43810&year=2003&make=YAMAHA&category=Motorcycles&dc=5364&name=DRIVE+SHAFT If you can lock up the Final Drive by tightening down the rear Axle, there's something wrong in this Area. Maybe somebody overtightened the Axle in the Past and crushed a Collar. I've seen that.
  13. Squeeze
    I think you need to open up the Motor first and see what you find in there before determine how to proceed. There a several Options with what you already have in Hand. I'd definately replace the 2nd Gear Shift Fork and probably the Shift Cam too, of Course also depending on what you'll find inside your Motor.
  14. Squeeze
    Nope, there a free Viewers/Tools for newer Office Version out there. You can't work inside a .docx File, but you can view and print it with those. Even Microsoft provides these nowadays.
  15. Squeeze
    You would have a pretty fast ROI on a new Tire, because you won't ride the Bike a Lot as it is. Not to mention the Cost of new Underwear every now and then ... But since i can't imagine you fabricated the Tire yourself, what about a nice Talk with the Supplier ? Just inform them about what's going on, what you going to do, and what you expect them to do if your Actions doesn't work out ?
  16. Squeeze
    Replacing Wheel Bearings and check/repack Steering Bearings is a very good Idea seeing the Age of your Bike and it's probably unknown Conditions. While you have the Wheel out, get the Tire loose of the Rim and reseat it. Sometimes the Tire does seat right over the Humps on the whole Circumference and this could cause a wobble also. Sometimes you won't find anything wrong at all. I had all this happen with one front Tire on my '99 Max. After going through a Lot of checking, I just tore that Rubber off and mounted another one. Problem gone ...
  17. Squeeze
    Here's the Spark Advance Curve of '85 Vmax. Since Engines and Parts are mostly the same, you could try to achieve a similar Curve with the programmable Ignition.
  18. Squeeze
    I have a disassembled Carb Set lying in the Shop, i could take Pics of these and put them up here. But i won't get to the Shop until tomorrow, or better said 18 Hours from now on. If there's no one else chiming in, we'll have to postpone until then ...
  19. Squeeze
    I'm sorry to hear you're about to leave, but it's your Choice. You do whatever you have to do. On the other Hand, Dingy IS electrical Engineer and i myself got educated in that Area too. I stand right behind him in this Matter. He's also right in saying you contradicted yourself in your Posting and, as opnionated as we all are, sometimes it better to listen to others and think about what they have to say, think about this and what you learned and gather a better Knowledge over all. I'm not talking about your Choice of Words either. We all might be wrong sometimes, but using the Words "be afraid, be very afraid" sounds a Bit like Overkill to me.
  20. Squeeze
    Well, those Pics aren't too sharp in the depth, but from how i see it, it looks like the Linkage Parts are on the wrong Carbs. Did you have them completely apart and exchanged Linkages between front and rear left Carb ? I honestly don't know if thats possible, some of these a pressed on, some have thin Nuts on the Butterfly Valve Axle. I don't work on the Carbs every Day anymore, so i could be all wrong, but that's the Way i see it.
  21. Squeeze
    Sorry, no Picture, but i can ensure you, the Linkage gotta be sticking out a bit, maybe 4 mm or so on the left Side. I made up a Jig for this a long Time ago, so i i can't say for sure how much it's sticking out above the Level of all Carb Foots. The Mount Rails which take the Drain Hoses are even lower than that, but my Jig is smaller than the Distance between the Rails.
  22. Squeeze
    Even while i have a Vmax in the Stable, I'm still envy. You got a major steal right there. Congrats !!! :thumbsup2: Maybe there will be some other Things to sort out in the Future, this one is worth a Lot of Effort. Regarding the leaking Output Shaft, most likely you'll need to re-shim the Assembly, so better be prepared to get some Shims to be have them at Hand when you need them.
  23. Squeeze
    There's something bent in the Linkage. Usually, it's on the left Side because it sticks out from underneath. Could it be possible, you clamped the Carbs down while mounting first without a cutout to take up the Lever ?
  24. Squeeze
    In Fact two smaller Wires can safely carry more Current than on bigger Wire. That's because Current is traveling only on the Outside of the Wire, or if it's a stranded Wire, on the Outside of each strand. It only get's dangerous when one of the smaller Wires ought to take the whole Load, in other Words, when the Connection on one Wire fails.
  25. Squeeze
    You can easily calculate DC Currents. Voltage is Current multplied with Resitance, Power is Voltage multiplied with Current. 16 Amps and one Hour continous running Compressor will take the Amount of 16 Ah out of your Battery. The stock Lead Acid Battery is 20 Ah, so 16 Ah will discharge the Battery too much. You should not drain the Battery down to less than 25 Percent of it Capacity to save Battery Life. Having the same Battery starting the Bike after running the Compressor is hard to say, depends on the Conditon of the Battery. I'd say your safe to start the Bike at 45 Percent of the remaining Battery Capacity when the Motor is not hard to start. 50 Percent of a fully charged Battery is 10 Ah, which means you can draw 10 Amps for one Hour or 20 Amps for 30 Minutes. 16 Amps draw would mean 0.625 Hours or better said 37.5 Minutes. This is all calculated with steady Voltage, which isn't the Case, the Voltage drops while the Battery delivers its Current, so you have to take this into Calculation too. Again, this depends also on the Battery Condition. To make that long Story short, the Compressor won't harm the Battery when you run it up 20 Minutes with the Engine stopped. The Charging System isn't in overload under these Circumstances too. Your best bet would be looking for a Battery Safer Relay. These are used in Trucks and RV's to secure the Battery from complete Drain and premature Death. If you could choose the Discharge End Voltage, I'd look for a 11.0 Volts Relay, most common are (Refrigarator) Relays at 10.8 Volts. I'd do some on Shop Site Tests before switching this in public up and running Mode, hooking up a DMM direkt to the Battery and checking Time as well as Battery Voltage and Ability to start with the remaining Capacity.
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