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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. I for one, have no Problem at all with that !! !! :thumbsup2:
  2. http://www.snopes.com/rumors/noflags.asp
  3. +1 makes it four
  4. You should pick a one Gear to check that Amount. This "total" Backlash is different in each Gear.
  5. These Pins look like thay came out of the Shifter Rachet Mechanism.
  6. :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo You'll find a vast Pool of Knowledge here, just about everything about these Bikes and far beyond that !!
  7. Hi and welcome to the Site Most likely, you'll have that fixed if you follow the Instructions in the following Thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493
  8. Well, i don't have any Knowledge about running a Hack, but i wouldn't suggest much more clamping Force on the Bearing. A bit more may be ok, but much more will ruin the new Bearings premature and create Problems when trying to run a straight Line. I'd stay within the upper End of the Specs. Lift the front Wheel off the Ground and place the Steering into middle Positon. The Front End should fall to either Side with a little Push, but not rebounce from the Stop. If the Fork won't reach the Stop on both Sides on it's too tight, if it rebounces once or twice it's too loose.
  9. Me too !!!!!!!!!!!!!! :fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo
  10. I had the Idea of building a Rectifier out of 6 Diodes and ran a 24 Volt Relay on the DC Output of the Rectifier. The Input comes from the the AC Wires out of the Stator. That makes the Relay only hot when the Stator is producing enough Voltage to make the Relay engage. You'll need a seventh Diode to save the Relay Coil from being freid by reverse Current and probably a Capacitor to even out the Voltage waves. Never tried it, but it should work. Current draw should be minimal. My '09 Vmax switches the Light on when the Motor is running, but keeps it on when you use Stop Sitch. Never looked into the System which they use.
  11. Redline on the 1Gen Vmax was also 9500. It seems they used weaker Springs to help the Fuel Consumption. Plus the Cam Profile doesn't imply that much of Spring Force necesarry. Nobody does ride a big Tourer like a Vmax ... :D At least that's what the Engineers like to think :whistling::whistling:
  12. Since we heard many Voices saying the rear Brakes on the 2Gen are very sensitive, I don't think using the Carbone Lorraine is your best Choice. The're eating the Rotor too. Imho, using normal, organic EBC Pads would be the best Idea. If you want to use sintered Pads, better use EBC HH Pads to save some Rotor Life.
  13. Thanks for getting this Dyno Thing running !! But You should mount a MAP or a TPS before putting the Bike on the Dyno. It just doesn't make Sense to spent Money and try to tune a half-assed System ..
  14. WOW, talk about an abused Clutch .... I personally would NOT use any synthetic Oil when i read what you're doing with your Bike. JASO MA or MA2 Specs certified or not. Period. Why ?? Because each and every Year on our german Vmax Board some Chicks are much smarter than the Hen and try it, most pay the Price sooner or later. This is even much more important if you use the "Friction Zone" a Lot. Makes me wonder about what you Guys are teaching and get taught off ? I've never been taught to rev the Bike up to halfway to redline and then only engage the Clutch partially. That's sounds a bit stupid. For me, Friction Zone is the the Area where the Clutch just engages and not fully biting. If i need to operate in the that Area, it's not more than 2k RpM for me. That should give you plenty enough Power to play with.
  15. Hi and welcome to the Board from Stuttgart, Germany
  16. Inner examination is the first step towards self improvement. :happy34:
  17. You could try to pull the Wires a bit out and push them back in. Had this happen 5 Years ago on my Max, fixed it that way and never had the Problem again. If it doesn't work out, you need a new Fuel Pump.
  18. Take it apart and look what you find in there. If the Steel Plates are blue, you'll need new ones. If only the Friction Discs are glazed, maybe a sanding Job on both Friction and Steel plates may help. Hard to tell without seeing what you have.
  19. I wouldn't risk putting synthetic Oil in it, maybe you're calling in more Problems with the synt. Oil. Sometimes a Engine starts to leaking here and there and everywhere. I'd give the System a good Flush and use a good Brand mineral Oil to start with. We use Motul 3000 on the Vmaxxes if there's a Problem with clunky Shifting. Helps most of the Time. Of, Course, if the hydraulic Clutch has Air in the System, it won't help in smooth shifting. But bleeding the Clutch shouldn't be much of a Problem.
  20. Maybe there's someone who had a Beer too much last night ?
  21. You're wrong ... I'm a complete Nutcase. On the Internet and even more in Person. :whistling: :255:
  22. M20x1.5 is Oil Drain Bolt Dimension, you could look there first.
  23. So just buy one, pick up right here and drive it up to Bremen on the Autobahn and have it transferred to Canada by Rol-On/Roll-Off Ferry. Lots of People do this. A Friend of mine is working there, maybe i could arrange something special for you. And, i'd love to have a Beer or three with you too. Remember the Pic from The Restaurant last Week ? That's about a Mile away from the Porsche Factory and Museum.
  24. I'm sorry, but there's no "payable" stock Porsche on the Street running better Times than a Vmax. Even the brand new 2010 Porsche 911 GT3 RS can't beat a Vmax ... Drivetrain Configuration Rear Engine/RWD Engine: Flat-6 Displacement: 3797 cc Horsepower: 450 bhp @ 7900 rpm Torque: 317 lb-ft @ 5750 rpm Max RPM: 8500 rpm Transmission: 6-Speed Manual 0-60 mph: 3.8 sec Quarter mile 12.0 sec However, just keep on trying to blow them Doors off :happy34:
  25. Be carefull with your Response. She might call you abusive too. The Truth actually IS unconvient some Times, especially when it contradicts my Views. Therefore, i'd suggest you unveil your Sources, so that everyone can see the Statistics you mentioned.
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