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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. You also might check with DHL. Fxstein(one the Guys from RSWarrior mentioned above) will ship his '09 Max over here by the End of the Month.Don't know about his Proceedings though. A Friend of mine shipped his '09 MAx from St.Louis, Mo to Stuttgart, Germany by Air Freight. The wooden Crate cost alone him 595 Bucks. I think, all in all he was near 2000 Bucks. From what i see from my Side of the Pond, Roll on/Roll Off may be the cheapest Way, but you need to trust those Guys with your Bike.
  2. I'm quite sure the Thread on the Axle is M17x1.5, NOT M18x1.5. That said, a Helicoil won't work and won help you at all. That's because you need to be able to pinch the Insert with the Pinch Bolt and that won't happen with a Helicoil. You could use a Time-Sert Insert, which is more a Sleeve and after the Insert is seated, you use a Saw and cut the Insert open through the Groove which is already there. Or use a Dremel with cutting Wheel.
  3. a whole Lot a Bunch of Sissies ... :crackup::crackup::crackup:
  4. What i am saying is the Dealer told me, you better not place your Sidestand in the Mud or on another weak Surface. Therefore, they mounted a Light to enlighten the Side Stand Area at Night. Maybe i'm just to dumb to explain that. Can't see any Relation to be afraid of the Dark, though.
  5. This is what the Dealer told me when i outlaughed the Floor Light on a K1200 LT .... When you think about it, it does make Sense, just like the hydraulic Center Stand. This Thing IS heavy ... and no, i'm not kidding about Bill's ZX-14 either :crackup::crackup:
  6. Hey Mike, Bill's ZX-14 is still on Ebay. That would be the right Bike for you. Ok, it's not made to ride for 12 Hours per Day, but you could ride the same Distance in a third of the Time !!! :bowdown::bowdown: I'm sorry, couldn't resist ... The Floor Lighting is to give the Rider an Option on where he's about to place his Sidestand. With a Bike of this Weight, it sure seems advisable to seek fair ground to put the Stand on.
  7. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OIl9oLGx1o]YouTube- OLD VESPA WITH 750 CCM SUZUKI ENGINE !!![/ame]
  8. Well, i have a spare '99 Vmax Engine standing in my Shop :D
  9. Yamaha does, you don't need to undo the the Tank on a TDM 850 or 900, but you need to undo the Radiator.... On a 1Gen Vmax, you don't need to undo anything but the Caps.
  10. I can give you all i know, but it won't help you in any Way, because they're all not sold in US or Canada. Our Laws in EU forbid about anything what works, nobody in US would buy that Stuff... Hey Jonas, good to hear from you !!! :happy34: But suggesting to use Brennivin as Carb Cleaner is mean !!!!! :rotf:
  11. Looks like there was a "Problem" during mounting. The Traces which seem to be to the right of the Crack in the Picture could easily refer to the Shoe of a mounting Machine or a Tire Spoon.
  12. Can't say that this Mixture won't work in a Ultrasonic, but there are special Chems for Ultrasonic Cleaners available. Ultrasonic Cleaners works with Cavitation, which Chems should not disturb or even deminish. I tested some of my standard special Cleaners in my Ultrasonics and had mixed Results. Some did work as half as good as expected and some didn't work at all. So, normally i use a Chem which is designed for industrial cleaning in Ultrasonics, special made ultrasonic Carb Cleaner (because of the Cost) only for very though Cases.
  13. So Dan, what's the Problem, dig up some old O-Rings and Gaskets, measure them for their Sizes and dump them into the Fluids you planning to use. If the O-Rings didn't change their Size or decompose after a Week and same goes for the Gaskets, you're good to go ... At least as a preliminary Finding. You could mix a fourth Jug and compose the Mixture you're targetting at and test that too. Keep the testing Parts on the Jugs for longer and watch what happens on a regurlar Basis. Nothing wrong with some empirical Tests. :happy34:
  14. The Choke Behaviour you see somewhat normal. Now, get some Sea Foam in the Fuel again and ride it like you stole it. One of the major Points is, Sea Foam (or any other Product) can't work it's Wonder in only some Hours. Some Passages, like the Pilot Fuel Area your currently fighting with, are very very tiny and the Sea Foam needs to have a Lot of Time to work. Get a strong Mixture it in the Tank, ride half the Fuel out of it and leave the Rest sitting over Night, Gas up the next Day and ride it like you stole, working your Way throughout the RpM Range with Load on it. Let the Motor pull up to Redline every other Time in second or third Gear. In the Afternoon, put some Sea Foam in the Tank, forming a stronger or not so strong Mixture depending on what you felt over the Day and let it sit over Night again. This might go on for over a Week until all the Fuel Passages are free. If the poor Idle Behaviour isn't History by then, you most likely will have to take the Carbs out and clean them on the Bench or, even better in an Ultrasonic Cleaner.
  15. Well, Black Owl did away with the Cerburu and you should keep your original Handle too. :thumbsup2: Granted, Cupcake may be funny, but Squidley didn't came out of nothing too.
  16. Gatorade ??
  17. Most likely it's a crudded Contact in the Hi/Low Switch on the left Handle Bar.
  18. The huge Torque is somewhat needed. If you look at all the Bearings involved, you'll see it's absolutely necessary to tighten the Combination of inner Races and Spacers together. If you ride with a loose Axle, the Bearings can't work as they should and it will cause premature wear and tear to the Bearings. Riding in hot Weather at higher Speed for a longer Period of Time can cause the Temp to rise up to 160 F. Above that (Infrared Thermometer) there's a Problem Which you need to address. I'd recommend the Yammi final Drive Oil(9079E-SH001-00). It's not cheap, but it specifically designed to run with a high Power Engine and in hot Environment.
  19. That's too much play, especially on the up/down Motion. There should be next to no Play on the Side to Side Play, but each and every Tenth unsprung and undampened Travel in the up/down Direction is very bad. Looks like you found the Culprit with your Tire.
  20. :rotf::thumbsup2::bluesbrother: Running out of Projects ?? Take this ... http://www.microsquirt.info/ A Set of 2004-2006 R1 TB's plus a complete V-Boost-Setup including the V-Boost Controler and you have plenty to do ... plus around 10 hp extra when you're done
  21. Assuming you mean one of the Drain Hoses off the Carb Floater Bowls ... the Answer would be .... No Sorry, please don't shoot the Messenger !! !!
  22. Sounds like you're on the right Track. That said, if it turns out you need to replace the R/R,i'd not look at the stock R/R but use a Shindengen FA 012. We had a big Thread about the Advantages of this new Style R/R as well as an Group Buy going on over them. The required rewiring and probable repositioning shouldn't give you any Problems. If you type Shindengen into the Search Box, the respective Threads will come up.
  23. Besides the Fact that the Yamaha GENICH on my '09 Vmax comes with the complete Diagnosis Computer built into the ECU. YOu can test each and every Sensor Actuator and see the Results on the Screen. No need to takea Trip to the Dealer. There is one Connector for a Dealer Computer, but it's used for ABS Diagnose. I love the EFI, especially after Dyna's Power Commander allows a LOT of Tinkering with the stock Mappings.
  24. Since when do we vote here ? Did i miss the Memo ? :crackup::crackup: That said, as they say .. Revenge is a Dish best saved cold .... :whistling::whistling:
  25. Well, can't say anything about the Tire Question, but if you expirience minimal Tire rubbing on the left Side of the Swingarm, there's a Cure. You could buy or fabricate a big Steel Washer, Size is 20.5 by 28 by 2.5 or 3 mm thick and place it between Drive Hub and final Drive. We do this quite often on the 1Gen Vmax when using a 190 rear Tire instead of the stock 150. Works fine if you use Steel and the narrower Contact Patch inside the Splines have no negative Outcome when you stay under 3.5 mm Thickness.
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