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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. There's a Rebuilt-Kit from "Tourmax", maybe Sirius Inc (the Supplier where the cheaper Diaphragm Replacements come from) may help you out on that. On the Carbs.... Sorry, but no, you need to go the hard Way and splt at least the Set in Halves.
  2. Congrats on getting this sick Rotor off !!! No need to worry about other missing Parts. Three Rollers, three Spings, three Caps is all, the Pins the Parts Diagram show aren't there or are stuck in the Housing.
  3. Sure, i have the '09, the latest VMX12 and the VR on "Speed Dial", meaning direct Links to the Parts-Fiches in my Brower.:crackup:
  4. http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1049577&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2009&fveh=28572 Parts-No 14
  5. A new Shindengen R/R is 128.65 at Partshark (1D7-81960-00-00). Not quite competetive to the Price we paid in the Group Buy, but it's the Way i'd go to get the full Benefits of the upgraded Stator.
  6. I use a 32mm flat Box End Wrench to hold the Rotor while tightening.
  7. Nope, they look alike, but those are different in many ways.
  8. I'd suspect the ovalshaped Part between front and rear Cylinders. There's a special Shape O-Ring which can leak.
  9. If i'd be in your Shoes, i'd buy a Set of Vmax Carbs. Most of them are 35mm, and they already come with a fairly fitting Jetting if you plan to sport a V-Boost Setup. Plus, if you don't have a good Battery, get Vmax Battery Box and the respective Battery. It's (only) 17 Amps, or 18 Ah with the newer Batteries, but it's thinner than the Venture Battery and would allow you to use a Vmax AirBox, which would be a good Improvement over the VR Box too.
  10. My vote's for www.partshark.com Chris is the Guy to go to ...
  11. I seem to remenber a Post a long Time ago, where the Member said, if the 2nd Gear was fixed by the Dealer, they marked the Engine with a Center Punch near the Engine Number, which is located on left rear End of the Motor, above the Output Shaft.
  12. With all the Aftermarket Fabricators getting into this Market, I'm quite sure there is a Lever which fits or can be modified to fit. Like i said, i ground off a small Piece from the Vmax lever and bolted it to the '93VR. The same could be done with such an adjustable Aftermarket Lever. In Fact I'm thinking about doing this, because I'm spoiled from my ISR Masters and their Levers and i recently added better adjustable Levers to the '09 Max also ... According to my Wholeseller's Program, the Brake Lever of a 1999-2001 RSV fits on these Bikes ... Yamaha XV 1600 A Wild Star 5JA1VP0811999 63 PS, 46,3 kw Yamaha XV 1600 A Wild Star 5JA5VP0812000 63 PS, 46,3 kw Yamaha XV 1600 A Wild Star/Silver 5JA8VP0812001 63 PS, 46,3 kw Yamaha XV 1600 A Wild Star/Silver 5JAAVP0812002- 2004 63 PS, 46,3 kw Yamaha XV 1700 Road Star Warrior 5PX4VP14E2003 86 PS, 63 kw Yamaha XV 1700 Road Star Warrior 5PXAVP14E2004- 2005 86 PS, 63 kw Yamaha XVZ 1300 TF RoyStar Venture 5JC1VP0911999- 2001 95 PS, 69,6 kw Yamaha XVZ 1300 A Royal Star 4YP24YP1998 74 PS, 54,5 kw Yamaha XVZ 1300 A Royal Star 4YP34YP1999 74 PS, 54,5 kw So, if a stock Lever off a 1999 fits to a 2004 RSV, all the Levers of those Bikes will to a 2004 RSV also. They don't list a Clutch Lever as of today. but I'm quite sure there will be a fitting equivalent also. Yammi and their Suppliers don't put special developed Levers on each and every Bike Model's Masters.
  13. You could take a Look into the Lucas Bike Program. They added the 1Gen Vmax Levers recently, maybe a Lever from a different Bike would work. They're not cheap, though. I.e., i modified and mounted a Lever off my 1Gen Vmax and fitted it to the '93 VR.
  14. The FPR is a Safety Device, it allows the Pump to get Voltage for a Amount of Time, like 5 Seconds, and when there's no firing Signal from the #2 Cylinder, it shuts the Pump down until there is a Fireing Signal... You better replace the Relay with a used one instead of taking any Chances
  15. I've seen the SuperTenere already at my Dealer. It's sure a nice Bike, but not enough Power(110 DIN-hp) for me ... Price i Ok, for that Bike. Since i don't ride in den Dirt, i sure would do something about the Spoke Wheels, but I'm not in the Market anyway.
  16. I won't say a Word ....
  17. If you made an Plug'n'Play install linking the ballast to the H4 Connector of the Haed Light, most likely the Contact Resistance in the Hi/Low Switch causes a Voiltage Drop and this will end in a non-Start once in a while. This is a Problem which mostly can't be blamed on the HID. A H4 Bulb will work with a lowered Voltage, yes, but the Light Output will be comprimesed anyway.
  18. I can only second what Dingy said. IT IS a worthy Safety Device. Yes, you could bypass the Problem for a Day or two, but if i'd where in your Shoes, i wouldn't run it that Way over the Weekend. It's not funny going down because of the Side Stand caused your getting air borne. But it's your Skin and your damaged Bike.
  19. Here ya go ....
  20. Well, if that would be my Bike, i could see myself buying some nice white Car Wrapping Foil in a fitting Color and put a big white Stripe in the middle of the Tank with it. A thin Foil Stripe would give my a nice Touch and i'd be done with that until i can resolve the basic Issue.
  21. Look after the Spring between Drive Shaft and Pinion Gear
  22. Apology ?? For what ?? For a (granted, not small) verbal kick in the Butt to get his Income Base not forgotten ? Sure not !! !!
  23. You can simply change the Shift Shaft, you also need to exchange the front Coolant Line coming from the Thermostat. You Course, for an easy Swap, you should use an Engine which is the same Year-Range of the Pick Up Coil. That would be from 85 to -90. If you use a later Engine, you will have to exchange the Pickup Coil or the TCI. But it's an easy Job, Engine bolts right in.
  24. that why some smart People left a "Subscribe to Thread" Button in the Thread Tools ...
  25. and you even would have something to place on the Wall once you finally give me you postal adress ....
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