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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    if you got some Pressure, tie the Lever to the Handlebar, with a Cable or Zip-Tie and come back two or three Hours later, release the Lever careful, pump 3 or 4 Times and tie the Lever back again. Prodeed this 2 or 3 Times and you will be almost done with it. Let the Lever tightly pressed overnight and be happy tomorrow.
  2. Squeeze
    if you're looking for a full Face Helmet ... http://schuberth.klaxmedia.de/en/r1.html http://schuberth.klaxmedia.de/en/s1.html I use several Helmets from Schuberth and Baehr, also a S1 Carbon and i like them. What i like best is the Sunvisor. Both S1 and R1 have this and it's a huge Improvement as i wear Glasses and can't use Sunshades. Of Course, a bit pricy, but it's my Head, and if i need the Helmet dued to others Mishaps, they will pay for it.
  3. Squeeze
    may sound stupid, but maybe it's Time to lube the Speedo ?
  4. Squeeze
    my guess ... NOT ... not to notice at all I'm sure there is in Fact a small Drop on the mpg, but you only notice that if you're riding on Freeway or Highway at constant Speed until the Tank is empty, fill up and ride it empty again. Once you're in need of moving the Throttle while riding, break, accelerate, break, full throttle, zero Throttle, the drop in mpg does not occur, because you need shift downwards less often and stay in same Gear more often and just let the Engine take it on. Sorry, i was too slow on typing ....
  5. Squeeze
    You're right Condor, i guess these are not my best Days, seen from the opposite Point of View .... Joe, if you decide to change the Clutch Line, get yourself steel Braided Lines, HEL or similiar, you will expierence a complete new Feeling. I strongly recommend such Lines for the Brakes also. All the Lines are fairly old and will expand when Pressure is exposed. This Expansion makes the Brakes and Clutch feel softer than it should be. Yammi recommends the replacement of all Lines every four Years.
  6. Squeeze
    The third is ... The Piston is not completely released from the Lever. Can be caused from Aftermarket Levers, which do not fit 100 Percent and constantly keeping a small Rest on the Piston or the Bolt in the Lever which is holding the Piston's End is stuck. Check if there is a little bit of Play between the Lever and Piston when the Lever seems to be completly depressed. P.S. don't sell your Bike, because of that minor Hassle, you will find it Culprit and be one happy Camper
  7. Squeeze
    Yamalube should be the right Oil. Yes, of Course, if there is a Air-Bubble still in System, probably deep down near the Slave, there is a good Chance that the Bubble expands by the Heat of the Motor, and cause the Clutch slipping more and more. If the Line cools down later, the Bubble shrinks and the Clutch 'works' like it should, well almost like it should. I think you should give your System another fair Bleeding and tie the Lever down to the Handlebar over the Night for getting the smaller Bubbles up to the Master. RB are gone as some other Facilities around here. Just the Housing Area exists and is used very frequent. Also the small Facilities on the Hill. I work some 500 Meters away from the Hill and live in Ludwigsburg, a quarter Mile down the Road from former Flak, if you remember. Rock Fabrik is still on Duty. Same Music, same Folks, fresh Girls. New Beer Contract, :D but the same good Jack Daniels. They have to fight those new Clubs with this stupid 'Music' or whatever it is called nowerdays. But as long they playing real Music, you know, they will never go down. When did you serve here ? Maybe we met some Day, i worked in the Rock Fabrik for 2 Years at the Bistro, right to the Entrance ....
  8. Squeeze
    Hey, i'm really sorry for you and all the Hassle you're going through. What Oil do you use ?
  9. Squeeze
    you may look for this ? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493
  10. Squeeze
    Hi, just clean all the Switches in the left Handlebars with a firm Contact-Cleaner, CRC 2-26 or an other good Brand, and be happy. If you find it all functionall afterwards, don't hesitate to get the right side Switches also cleaned in the near Future.
  11. Squeeze
    He's constantly running on more or less Seafoam, the Mileage is getting better somehow. He mentioned that in several other Threads about basically the same Issue. The Carbs finally need a complete cleaning Job. But, instead of doing this ....
  12. Squeeze
    Hi, you can post a Link to the full Picture, therefore open the Picture you want to post in full Mode, right click, choose Properties and copy the URL showed. In your Posting, hit the Picure Button and paste the URL gathered before. Funny Thing is, the Picture is shown in the Textfield you're typing in, but if previewed or posted, only the Link shows up. for Example:
  13. Squeeze
    many Thanks Dennis for the precise Measurements. Did you overthink to replace the PAJ#2 against those of a '86 ? Would be worth a try instead of going to the Process of Epoxy and so on ... I did not check the different Sizes of the Jets, but i think smaller Jets would have been the Answer. I think the '83 might have #145 Jets, the '86 should be #170.
  14. Squeeze
    Hi, this would have been my guess. Did you measure the exact Diameter of the '83 Slides ?
  15. Squeeze
    Hi, is this the Nut inside the U-Joint you're talking about ? Besides this, i can't imagine what Part you're describing ?? I'm dumb ....
  16. Squeeze
    I agree 100 Percent. but 1st off, the Carbs need to be checked and cleaned anyways. Maybe not right now, but latest at the Moment its bothering him more than just a bit. 2nd my lifetime Lesson learned .... if you're looking in a Problem, don't take anything as given or assume anything. CHECK IT. Period Those Stoppers are just some Plastics on the End of the Slider's Tube. One could easily glue something in to prevent the Slides from opening to the full Travel. I would check the Function of the Spark Advance Sensor by detaching it from the Manifold Tube and give it some Vacuum with a Mityvac or suck it with the Mouth. Idle Speed should change. If so, wouldn't give the Sensor or the CDI a second Thought for now. Next would be taking the Carbs out and check and clean them. Fuel Filter might be also a bit clogegd, but that wouldn't be my Favourite.
  17. Squeeze
    '84 and '85 are the same as the '83 2Pistons Calipers are
  18. Squeeze
    Hi, those Diaphragm can soak some Gas and will grow dued to that. Once they are on Air for some Days they shrink back to normal Size. Jeremie's Strategy for putting them in is what i do also.
  19. Squeeze
    Neither do i. I've done a bit of Resarch in ctraylors previous Posts. He mentioned a leak in one Cylinder dued to a somehow open Intake Valve. The Discussion ended open ? Also this Discussion here has a History. I think a serious Carb-Maintainance is in order. Although the Diaphragm seem to renewed, there is a Lot more working inside the Carbs. Seafoam will help in most Cases, but some serious clogged Jets, can't be cleaned up with Chemistry only. Also, Seafoam isn't working on the Air Ducts, because Seafoam can touch these Parts in the Carbs. Maybe the Air Duct in the Carbs Throat is clogged that much that there is not enough Power to Lift the Slides enough. Other Thing could be is PAJ#2 is clogged partly and the Vacuum does not build up propely in a timely Manor. This can cause the Slides to stop moving before the End of their Travel is reached. Other Thing could be, unlikly but nevertheless, there are Slides on the Market that limit the Power of the Bike. On the Maxxes, the Power on some Engines is limited to 98 DIN HP by such limited dead Stop Slides and the V-Boost unplugged. That's because of Insurance Issues. Also, maybe just for me, is one Question open, does the Bike not reach Redline at all or just not under WOT Condition ? Even with 75 Percent open Throttle in lower Gear, the Engine should go up to Redline.
  20. Squeeze
    Hi, as George has said, definatly 3 new Bolts #11, those are Allen Headed standard Threaded M8x25mm in heavy Duty 12.0 Quality, some good, red Loctite and good Luck with dismounting the Flywheel. I recommend to replace the Wheel #6 also, because those 3 Rollers #10 are running on that Wheel everytime the Engine runs. If there is wear on the Surface, even if minimal, the Rollers would be damaged way sooner than with a new Wheel. Damage on the Wheel i've seen where flat Spots and Skid Marks or both of it. So depending if you want to save the Money for the Wheel or do the Job again earlier choose what to do. On the other Hand, depending on what all the 1Gen Parts would cost, other Option would be, sending the Flywheel to http://www.pcwracing.net/featured.htm and get their Starter-Clutch Conversion. Might cost a bit more in the first Place, but you will never hear from it again. Just mount the converted Flywheel with the Parts they send you and forget what for and where the Starter Clutch on your Bike is.
  21. Squeeze
    I agree with GeorgeS, but with one Exception. Tripple Tree and Fork Diameters are good enough for nearly any Speeds. Also the Overlap on the Fork is not too short. There are two other Things you might consider. 1st - the Geometry of the front End on a Max, you can cure nearly every Wobble or Weave with a Set of custom made Tripple Trees. Those Trees have a different Offset, 30 mm instead of the stock 50mm, this Changes the Bikes Wheelbase and the Trail. In Combination with good Bearings and the Races of the Bearings glued in Place, instead of hammering them in the Seat, all Problem are just plain History. 2nd - Tires all Ventures have big Tires, wide, a fairly Chopper-like Width/Height Tire Ratio and biased Threads. If there where radial Tires with a fairly lower Ratio, those Problems would not occur that much. I modify FJR1300-Rims to fit in the Maxxes, and evertime a Guy gets his new Set with radial Tires, they get rid of Head Shake and these Tires makes cornering very easy. Even i warn them to pay Attention, nearly everbody falls in the first Corners they take. One Guy nearly dropped his Bike on the inside because he was very surprised by the new Handling of his Bike. It was a Matter of Millimeters which kept him from throwing it in the Woods. Jimbob, what you use, a 10-30 Oil, is a Motoroil. It is not designed to handle the specific Stress which a Forkoil is designed to. The Movement of the Damper inside produce a Lot of Heat on a fairly small Ammount of Oil, so the Motoroil your using is weak maybe since 4 Weeks after you filled it in. Viskosity, Breakaway Torque, Oilspeed on so on .. everything is different than on a Fork Oil. You'd better go back to a Fork Oil.
  22. Squeeze
    Hi, how much Travel of the Handlebar Grip can you use to redline the Engine ? If i understand right, your Problem is, when you twist the Wrist maybe 70 or 80 Percent of the complete Travel, the Bike roars and RpM goes up to redline. If you twist to full open, the Motor roars and starts like a Champ, accelerates fine but stops all Efforts at 5500 RpM ? If so, what happens when you back off the Throttle a bit ? btw It may sound so sometimes, but i can assure you, i do not know everything about the Bike. I had my Lessons learned and i'm still learning every Day. I'm quite interrested and i want to move the Borders. Mine and those of the Bikes.
  23. Squeeze
    Hey Guys, to those who run the K&N Filters. Common Problem of these is, most Guys nearly soak the Filters in Oil, or give them a really good spray. That's false. You need only a little spray, more than dusted. If you use too much Oil, the Filter is clogged badly and there goes the Mileage. Try to go back to the Stock Filter, will helps to determine this Issue. Other Thing, the Plugs, Iridium Plugs fail often. I don't know why, but i've expierenced this on my CX500turbo with brand new Plugs and heard about some 10 Guys surrounding me in several Bikes. My Turbo won't start at all. I didn't blame the Plugs, because they where new and i had done a Lot of other Work on her, but after Hours of tearing everything apart, i brought up the old Plugs and the Bike started right up as nothing has happened before. Mounted the Sparklers again, and like before, nothing..... The Caldera those Plugs have left on Impact in the Wall still reminds every Day on that Situation. Don't assume anything. Check it. Period. Platinum Plugs don't fail that often, but they are not worth the extra Money. I use Standard Plugs since and change them regularly. This prevents also from keeping a foul Plug on the Bike for a too long Time.
  24. Squeeze
    Hi, besides the Fact that the '83 Engine has 100cc less than the '86, it will fit mechanically. There are differences in the Vacuum Pickup for the Spark Advance. If you keep your Carbset, this shouldn't be a Problem at all. The '83 Motor should have the YICS, this could be shut down. Imho, biggest unknown ist the 2nd Gear Issue. If the '83 Engine hasn't get the Fix, there might be a Problem on the Horizon. But, why are you considering the Swap of the Engines ? If there is no Problem right now, your '86 Motor should be good for more than twice the Miles you've done.
  25. Squeeze
    of Course you can use a Car Battery, but only as long as it is a 12 Volt Battery
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