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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Hi, just let the Bike sit running on Idle after the stop. The Fan will come on soon.
  2. Squeeze

    Helmet Head

    Squeeze replied to Johnh's topic in Watering Hole

    me thinks, has to be a double Mirror, so he doesn't need to read the Ruler mirror-inverted ... :rotf::rotf:
  3. Squeeze
    Hi Folks Did you plug your Exhaust one Time to test for Leaks ? Two Potatoes might do the Job. If you're sure of a non leaking exhaust, then i'd look for the Coast Enrichment Diaphragm. Or just richen the Mixture by half Turn CCW on the Mixture Screws. Well, if you could get one cheap, this is undoubtful also an Approach. Buy a Set, clean them and rebuild them and afterwards, just exchange the Carbs Sets. You might not get a Set with good Diaphragmn, but that would not hold me back. Your Description is perfect.
  4. Squeeze
    I do not mark the Jets, they are marked with their Size already near the Slot where the Screwdriver fits into. I use a magnifying Glass while mounting the Jets.
  5. Squeeze
    For what i can see here, these Pics are not very old. The Birdeye's View is incredible
  6. Squeeze
    Hi, i don't know the recent Prices in US. But on Ebay, you should be able to catch one for a reasonable Price. I watched a Venture Unit two Weeks ago, it i went away for 168 Bucks. Also, a local Salvage Yard might have one in Stock. They're not known for failing often, so the Risk of buying a used, defective one ist not that big. Whatever the Price may be, if you do not like it, and/or you not satisfied with the Result, you might resale it for fairly the same Price you bought it. You can take a Unit from a FJR1300 also, these are the same Ratio and fit like the Vmax Unit.
  7. Squeeze
    Hi, as i never heard the Whine, i thought about it quite often. In another Thread about a Vmax rear End on a 2Gen, i even mentioned that the Vmax Gear Ratio could eliminate the Whine, because they are, imho, Resonance Vibration or, as you figured, caused by a harmonic Problem. Now, if only there was anybody that can't confirm that Exchange of the rear End has eliminated the Whine .... btw... if i where a 2Genner and would suffer such freakin' Noise, i sure would give a Vmax rear End a Try. Would cost me 1 Hour Wrenchtime and i would probably loose 40 Bucks on a possible Resale of the used Unit i would purchase, but .... what's that versus loosing Days of riding Time, call the Dealer, discuss with the Dealer, bring the Bike in, wait, wait , call, wait, wait, sorry we didn't find anything, discuss again, get the Bike back, complain everywhere, bring the Bike in, call, wait, write 18 complaining Mails to Yammi, which are never readed by anybody human, receiving automatic generated Answersmail from Yammi, (where ist the Bike just now), oh, get the Bike from the Dealer and on and on .... The Unit fits the 2gens without doing anything else than mounting it and fill 0.2 Liter Gearoil, ok, no Speedo present while Testdrive, but is this Speedo really necessary ? For a Test Ride ? I've ridden hundreds of Miles without Speedo, because the Cable went south or the Pickup of my digital Speedo did no Function with the Pole of the Magnet i used.:rotf: just my 2cents worth
  8. Squeeze
    on the 1 Gen's ... The Impeller of the Waterpump was upgraded from Plastics to Aluminium. The Sensor for the Temp Meter was changed on the early 1Gen's which lowered the Readings on the Meter. Any changes or Recalls on the Watercooler, whether 1Gen or 2Gen are not present in my Mind. But who am i ?? I'm not used to say i know all about our Bikes.
  9. Squeeze
    Hi, i think you need to get in the History of Bike as deep as you can. First, the Ball.... i thought over it twice and tripple, but i sincerly can not say there is a Ball in a Bearing in this small Size. As it's big enough to not pass the Net on the Intake of the Oilpump, it just could not be broken down to small Pieces from Parts of the running Engine. The only single Ball, what's 'inside' the Motor, is the Ball between the Clutch Rods, but this is way bigger than the One you found. And this Ball cannot get into the Oilsump under normal Circumstances. Only plausible Explanation of the Ball could be, someone put something in the Engine, which has the Ball(s) in the Canister. Like a Spraycan, which have Balls inside to mix the Lacquer before spraying. I think about something similiar like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil or other Fluids.... Second, the O-Ring there are not so much O-Rings inside the Motor, mostly they are on the Oilrig which you took apart already. By the Size of the Parts you found, i'd say this broken One belongs to the Rig. Maybe a previous Owner already checked the O-Rings for the blown O-Ring, renewed all of them and did not clean the Pan afterwards. Or the Parts where flushed behind the Stator- or Middle Drivegear Covers and stayed there for a long Time. As you might know, there is Oil left behind both Covers on every Oilchange. Or, you simply have missed the Place the brocken Ring should have been.
  10. Squeeze
    Hi Cliff, i think everybody with a clear Mind and who is willing to learn and understand is capable of repairing anything on these Bikes. It needs some Tools and Time, but with the Help of the Workshop-Manual and all those great People here, anything is possible. That is not Rocket Science, we're talking about. Ok, you're not familar with Carbs and their particular Parts, but if you look at the Manual and the Yammi Internet Parts-Catalog IPC, you will learn the Names of all the Parts and what they do. If you do not understand, how things work, you just need search the Board here, read and ask afterwards and you will have a Bunch of Descriptions and Explanations and you will understand. If not in first Place, ask again and there will be other Answers. On the other Side, there is a Lot of Space to screw Things up, but with a good Portion of Patience you will get around these Rooms. Imho, People who want to take the Bull by the Horns earn a Lot more Respect than those who take out their Checkbook and sign whatever the Guy behind the Counter asks for. I really don't want to pick Swifty here, but as an Example, search for the 'Help Swifty' Thread here, i'm sure there were many People who grined a Lot while reading the Postings during the ongoing Process, but in the End, he did make it, and that's what counts. As for the Parts and the Ultrasonic Cleaner, every Part can and should be cleaned by the Machine, except the two Diaphragms and the Floater.
  11. Squeeze
    Hi, the Whine or Vibration you encontered, might have be a Consequence of the dragging Pads and running the Bike in 5th Gear without Load. Those Resonance Vibration sound quite scary. Don't drive the Bike with the pads dragging, you might overheat the Rotor way before before the Pads have settled. Take them out and sand them down until they fit in without dragging. Use a sheet of sanding Paper placed on a flat surface and move the Pads in a cross Pattern until the fit. Not a hard Job to do. 5 Minutes and your done with it. Did you test the Bike in 4th Gear as you described in your second Posting ?
  12. Squeeze
    Hi, the Starter Clutch needs to be replaced. Search for this and you will find several Threads discussing this Issure. Worst part of the Job is removing the Flywheel. Other than this, it's just one or two Hours wrenching Time, depending how much refreshing Drinks you tend to have ... :D
  13. Squeeze
    Hi, first of all, these old rubber Hoses mostly are Junk by now. Yammi recommends to replace them every 4 Years, even if they where done one or two Times in the Past, they're too old. Replace the Lines with steelbraided end expierence a brand new Feeling on the Levers and the Pedal. 400 US$ seems to be a bit pricy for me, there has to be a better Shot. Look out for HEL Lines. Also, those 2-Pot Calipers are outdated. Yammi updated them to 4 Piston Calipers since the '86 Model. You cannot expect a Lot of Braking Power out of those old Calipers. Next Thing might be the Pad are a bit glassy, but i'm sure, with your Background you have had them sanded a bit before reinstalling. Also, the Mastercylinder might be bit weak. Alse not uncommon when seeing the Age of the Bike. But the M/C would be my last to look upon.
  14. Squeeze
    Hi, yes, that's what i've meant. imho, using Seafoam, is a temporary Fix and won't help on the long Term. It's also good as a preventive Measure, but not if you're suffering Problems already an want it fixed for along Time. If you don't want to mess around for Weeks and learn how to take the Carbs out in 15 Minutes, a complete Cleaning is the only Way to assure that the Carbs won't be Problem in the Future. Also, if an other Problem occurs in the near Future, the Carbs would be out of Question. If you're mechanically inclined a bit, it's more a Question of Wrench Time and some Money for good Chemistry, but overall it's the best to get it done once and have more Fun with the Bike later. MBrood has a writeup in the Tech Section. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54 One Thing i would add, is to use some Valve grinding Paste on the Tip of the Screwdriver or the Bit you're using. Otherwise, those damned Phillips Head Screws can really be a pita. If you want to go a Step beyond manual Cleaning, take the Carbs out and tear them apart. Now, take all the Parts to a Shop and have them cleaned by a Ultrasonic Cleaner. Might cost some Bucks, but after they blowed them out with compressed Air after the cleaning Process, there ready to be put together again. Also, check the Float Hight on each Carb to ensure the proper Setting. This can be done with placing the Carb without mounted Floatbowl in an old fish Bowl, for Instance, and a fresh Hose on the Fuel intake. You can see the Float moving and when blow some Air in the Hose you can check if and when the Valves shuts the Intake.
  15. Squeeze
    So, if you're looking for something specific, ask what you're looking for, and maybe, there is a Mail which would arrive you soon ? Probably there's one or another Guy which had have downloaded them, during the Time they were public...
  16. Squeeze
    I don't see any Reason for spending big Money on a DMM for use on Vehicles . That's not Rocket Science we're talking about. There is no need to have a Result compared to another Result on any other Place. It should measure the Voltage and display a somehow exact Result and compare this Result with another Result, taken with the same Device. So, there is no need to know if the displayed 13.2 Volts are actually 12.9 or 13.5 Volts or something in between. Thats the typicall Error on such cheap Devices and this fills our Needs perfectly. In ours Days, virtually any Device, even the cheapest, is capable of such a Error Range. And if the Device has a Beeper to check Continuity. Better. I'd look more for Usability. Better to have a rubber outside the Casing, if the Unit goes down one Day. Better to have a Switch which is to be turned, when shutting off, than a Press/Depress Knob. Such a Knob could be pressed unintentially and there goes the Battery Power.... don't ask how i know ... Also, it would be better to have Leads where Measure Clamps can be attached. Or the Ports of the DMM are standard Size, to exchange the normally spiry Lead Ends versus a second Pair with Clamps. So, if you want to measure a Connector, you can clamp one End on the Battery Post or to Ground and have the other End in one Hand and the Connector in the other Hand. With such Clamps, one can secure the Clamps with Duct Tape and velcro the DMM to the Bike and go for a Test Ride securly. As for analog Meters... Yes, they don't need a Battery. Yes they need to have the Plus on the Plus LEAD ! Yes, the Meter is a lot more disturbed by Vibration and Bumps. Yes, if you want to check Resistance, there has to be a Battery. Yes, you have to set the right Range before!! putting it on Voltage or the Meter could be shot in Moment. In other Words, if you're electrically inclined, you're able to use a analog Meter proper and without getting it wrecked on a long Term. And even then, there are some Moments which you wish not have happened...
  17. Squeeze
    Hi, i know Death Valley isn't the friendlyest Place in the World, but other than just checking the Fluids and checking anything else for Function, i would worry more about the Driver and the Navigator than about the Bike.
  18. Squeeze
    Hi, clean the Carbs complete and briefly and be done with it. New Plugs are also a good Idea, if they where not done recently.
  19. Squeeze
    I think that SOP on Motors which have sat for while. I would think about serious Problems if it won't smoke. My Turbo does this every time i fire her up, the longer she sits, the longer she smokes. Also all the Diesel Motors which are not used frequently.
  20. Squeeze
    NO, it isn't a Legend, I've seen a Posting with a Sketch of it here a while ago. But, think this applies only to the '83 Models, because Yammi changed the something in the RearDrive since '84 Models. They have also another Driveshaft than the ??? '84. Maybe someone who knows this for will chime in ? Since i have only later Models, i just fill it like you do.
  21. Squeeze
    Hey, my Suggestion would be..... modify your Bike a bit and get rid of the Fairing !!!! Ok, that won't help in stay dry whilst riding in Rain, but, at least it would avoid the 'i wet my Pants' Look .... you will get wet al over your Pants and Jacket .... :rotf::rotf:
  22. Squeeze
    Hi Tim, i don't know what you mean with Pusher or Puller Relay. Pusher could be a Closer Contact that closes the Connection when the Relay is on Power. A Puller might be a Opener Contact which means the Contact is closed without Power, when Power is supplied, the Contact opens the Circuit. All i want to say is, this damned Pump should not run without the Relay in Place. Puller, Pusher, Opener, Closer, whatever, the Current should go through the Relay. If the Relay i not in Place, there should be no Voltage on the Pump. If your Bike is basically without this Relay, why the Heck is there a Connecting Place for Relay that does not exist in the Wireing Diagram ? If there is Voltage on the Pump without the Relay in Place, there is something false in the Harness or anywhere else near. Period. As for the Manuals and the Inconsisticies. I don't give a damn on those stupid, freaking Guys who are trying to do their Best, which is, in some Cases, not so much ... A Friend of mine teared his Vmax completely apart, and find his TCI not working anymore after the rebuild. According to his Chilton or Clymer, the TCI was bad. But after i looked after it, the Motor fired up at once: It cost me not more than 10 Minutes, i just pluged the right Handlebar Switch firmly togehter and there it goes .... Back to your Hassle. You have to decide what to do. Forget about the Safety the Relay should provide and leave the Function as it is. Or check your Harness and the Relay for bare Funktion out of the Bike, like i described before. P.S. my Tongue may sound a bit different, please disregard this. It is not meant against you in any Way, but nevertheless it is the plain Truth. I can imagine why the Pump is running without the Relay, but i can not imagine why the Pump stops when you connect it. If i where closer, you sure could put one or two Michelob's in your Fridge, you definatly would need them ....
  23. Squeeze
    i second thom440's Statement !! !!
  24. Squeeze
    Hi, you should be able to turn the Driveshaft by Hand. Need a good Hand but it will turn. All i've read before says me, change the Bearings, grease the Splines, flush the final Dive, put new Oil in, give the spinning Wheel Test another Try, but without Brake Pads mounted. I'd say, after you pressed the Clutch Lever, the Wheel should spin at least 5 or 6 Turns until it stops. Depends also on the Oil you use and the current Temperature of the Oil. It drags a Lot when the Oil is cold. ONce you've seen the Result, mount the Brakepads and give it another Try. The inner Race of the left Side is a Needle Bearing and so the Race should be moveable from left to right. It's a Yammi Only Part.
  25. Squeeze
    Here the Link you remembered. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8432&highlight=Helicoil I'd sincerly not recommend to use a bigger Plug and have cutted the new Thread by itself. Might work for now, but once you've opened the Plug for the next Oil change, it won't stop leaking. Fix it once with the right Method and be done with it forever.
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