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The Pickup seems to be around upper dead Center of the frist Cylinder. How they manage to synchronize the Ignition with the Intake/Fire Revelation?? I don't know, never thought about it. I changed the TCI various times and did not get a Nonstart afterwards.... Yes, i think this will work. I do not have an english Version of a newer Shop Manual, but i think you could handle a german Version. I would send you a .pdf if you like to have it. Or just the Electrics Section and the Wireing Diagram ?

You're welcome any Time, i'm sure that we will find a good Drink or some Beer here in my Neighborhood, after of Course, a fine Meal. Only Thing is, we do not have something like DQ here. Only some italian owned and operated Icecream Bars.

Hi Lynn, well i'm not that electronics Expert that i wish to be, but i can explain something. From '83 to '89, the 1Gen's used a two Pickup Assembly. After that the changed it to a single Pickup, similiar to the Vmaxxes. I really do not know which one was the first with the new Setup. The TCI 'knows' which Coil to fire by just simply counting the Revelations and give the Signal to the next Coil in fireing Order. Because the Engine is not a BigBang Motor, there is no need to gather the Information where the Pistons are inbetween one Revelation. If you think about testing a 1Gen TCI on your Bike, you need to get one after '90 with only one Pickup. Or a similar Vmax TCI. I believe those Units will work on your Bike, but until someone did a Test, it is need to know.

Hi, i read the Article and it stated the Prices with 12799.00 GBP on the Road, 400 GBP more than a RocketIII. Don, i don't think you can just plain convert the Price from GBP to USD. They know that after conversion, the Price would be far out of Range. They will lower the US Price, like all the other Manufacuters do. It's an old Game, the USD is weak nowerdays, the GBP is getting stronger, Euro is very strong these Days and will be for next Year also. Not politics meant, it's just an economic Fact.

I also had my Share in some of those Topics... Do i have to apologize for anything that i've said in those Matters ? Where does a normal Discussion end and 'unwanted' politicals Debates Starts ?? I ask a sincere Question .... I hope i get an Answer, here or by PM ...

Hey Jimbob, what you said ... I second your Statement on almost any Word, except the one about Lawsuits. The Companies do not link the Brakes because the Fear of being sued, they do it because the average Rider did get better Breakdistance back in the 1980ties. Well, this has changed over the Years ... Kit, i have two 8 Piston-Calipers on the front of my Max along with two 320mm casted Rotors and a fully adjustable ISR Mastercylinder ... You know what, this is BRAKING POWER !!!! I can get fully on the Lever if Speed is over 50 mph until getting down to 20 mph, there is no Way locking the front. Just take a Look a every modern Road Racer, front Brakes are huge, rear ones are getting smaller and weaker, because braking with rear results in Lock Ups and real bad Brakedistance. My Friend hghsided his 750 last Year at 40 mph braking too much for the oncoming Turn. He got airborne about 4 Yards and had a broken Rib afterwards...

I think the Prop Valve of a 1 Gen can't be mounted to the M/C of a 2Gen without serious Trouble. You could try to mount a complete M/C from a 1Gen which has those 2 Ports for front and rear Caliper. You can buy some Custom made Lines to make it work and be done with it ........ NOT You need to compare the Weights of both Bikes to see if the Ratio between each front and rear Weight is not too far different. The M/C and the Prop Valve are not adjustable so, if the Weights fits the needs, it would work. As long as the Rotor Sizes are the same on both Bikes. Are they ?? The bikes are near the same weight and you can buy adjustable valves, I think the one they are using for the Butler mod is adjustable. The total Weight may be nearly the same, but i've spoken about Weight on front and rear Wheel, this may be different. The Valve Rick Butler uses is a Reduction Valve and its only reducing the Amount of Fluid served to the Caliper or was it the Pressure, i don't know right now. What needs to be adjustable ist the Portion of dividing the supplied Pressure between front and rear. On the 1Gen's these Proportion is fixed with a Prefix to the front left Caliper. BUT ... what happens on the remaining front Caliper ? You would only hook up one front brake with the rear and use the remaining one for the front lever. Really ??? The Mastercylinder is too big for feeding the remaining Caliper. If you are talking about the front lever, a person would probably have to install another adjustable valve for the front system. I was talking about the front Mastercylinder. That might be an Idea, but not a good one. You have to replace that with a M/C which has a smaller Piston Diameter. You will possibly find one with the proper Size in the Yamaha Parts list, but if i'm not wrong, the 2Gen have a 1 Inch Handlebars, which is not that common on Yamaha's. As Yamaha Parts List does not list the Piston Diameters, you have to research that on you own. Next is the Angle of the M/C. There are a Lot of M/C's on several Bike, but the upwards angled mounted M/C's are rare. Mostly Yamaha go for a straight mounting Position of the M/C in Relation to the Handlebar. This is an Engineers Job by all means. Don't mess wth the Brakes unless you're not exactly knowing what will happen afterwards. I think, anything which enables to lower the Force on the rear M/C is a way better Solution. Be it either the 'Butler Modification' or just changing the Leverage of the Pedal. And, but this would be more the Icing on the Cake, a Lot cheaper too. I know this solution will keep a person from locking up the rear brake but I don't want less braking, I want more stopping power. I will agree that this will help somewhat but what happens when you load up the bike, put the wife on the rear and hook up the trailer? Do you still have enough stopping power and do you have to adjust the valve again? I don't talk about reducing Stopping Power. I talk about making the Bike up to a Point where the Brake locks up on the far End of the Lever. It's just more controlable. If you want to have a self adjustable System, you need to go to a Junkyard and get a load sensitive Valve from the rear Axle of light Truck or something like that. This Valve adjusts the Ammount of Fluid which can pass through by a Lever which ich mounted against the Frame. Once there is more Load on the Truck, the Lever is more pressed and more Fluid gets by. Is there automatic Suspension on the 2Gen's like the 1Gen's have? If so, this won't work. If not, that would work out after good testing and adjusting. Also, the Limits you work within are limited. Riding Single means locking up fast, 2-up and with Trailer, means a Lot more Weight on the rear Wheel and, as a Result more Force to the ground which allows more Brakeforce until the Tire starts slipping. But the Workrange is not Zero to 100 Percent. It'maybe 30 Percent to 100 Percent. If you reduce the Possibility of locking up the Brakes easy, you will still be able to lock up, with a Lot more Force from your Foot applied, which will happen anyways in a Emergency Situation. In other Words and overdued, now, you can lock her up with with the Force of one Toe, after the Modification, it should lock up only when you step with the whole Foot on it. That's the Goal to achieve.

I don't think they will leave the dismounted Basket at your Hands ...

Hi, i really do not want to spoil this Discussion, but i want to throw in my 2 Cents.... I think the Prop Valve of a 1 Gen can't be mounted to the M/C of a 2Gen without serious Trouble. You could try to mount a complete M/C from a 1Gen which has those 2 Ports for front and rear Caliper. You can buy some Custom made Lines to make it work and be done with it ........ NOT You need to compare the Weights of both Bikes to see if the Ratio between each front and rear Weight is not too far different. The M/C and the Prop Valve are not adjustable so, if the Weights fits the needs, it would work. As long as the Rotor Sizes are the same on both Bikes. Are they ?? BUT ... what happens on the remaining front Caliper ? The Mastercylinder is too big for feeding the remaining Caliper. You have to replace that with a M/C which has a smaller Piston Diameter. You will possibly find one with the proper Size in the Yamaha Parts list, but if i'm not wrong, the 2Gen have a 1 Inch Handlebars, which is not that common on Yamaha's. As Yamaha Parts List does not list the Piston Diameters, you have to research that on you own. Next is the Angle of the M/C. There are a Lot of M/C's on several Bike, but the upwards angled mounted M/C's are rare. Mostly Yamaha go for a straight mounting Position of the M/C in Relation to the Handlebar. This is an Engineers Job by all means. Don't mess wth the Brakes unless you're not exactly knowing what will happen afterwards. I think, anything which enables to lower the Force on the rear M/C is a way better Solution. Be it either the 'Butler Modification' or just changing the Leverage of the Pedal. And, but this would be more the Icing on the Cake, a Lot cheaper too. I've done lots of Work on Brakes of my Bikes, delinked my 1Gen, because i really do not want to use my Foot to bring this single Bike to a stop on the Dime. My other Bikes are not linked and so, i like all my Rides to work the same Way. I really would love to switch the Linkage of my Vmaxs Shifter to racing Style because sometimes i can't get my Toe underneath the Lever while going through a left Turn. But on my 3rd Bike, this isn't to be made, so all Bikes stay the same. I do not want to think about what needs to done on a specific Bike to get the Result i want. Neither on shifting nor on braking. Again, just my 2 Cents ...

on the front on your 2Gen, i'd recommend EBC HH Pads. They are the best Cost/Perfomance Ratio. On the rear, normally plain organic Pads are in order. Maybe the cheapest you can find.

I'm sure he will stay of .... the first then Miles, then ... so help him his God ... he will literally feel the Speed and back off before something bad happens. I remember well my first Expierence with full open Throttle in 3rd Gear. Altought, i think nobody can have too much Power, i'm well aware of those People who can't control not even Half of the Power a twist of the Wrist on a Bike produces.

I'd go with Pegscraper and Al Bates. Flaot Level is important. Have them check the Floathight, Floatvalves and Seats. Rejetting is not needed. It can cause more Problems than it solves. A proper rejetting needs a Lot of Work on the Dyno, regarding the Time needed to dismount, redo and mount the Carbset, i sincerly do not think that 350 US are the Price for a good rejetting. And .... if they only want to change the Main Jets during Warranty Work, 200 Bucks are 180 Bucks too much for the Labour. All four Jets might be 5 each...

I fully second George Statement. Let the Engine work once in Month until the Temps are up to standard. Not only on Idle, give her some RpM's ... This will save the Diaphragm, keep the Carbs clean and prevent anything inside from sticking

I love this Quote :rotf::rotf:

EVERYONE ..... well .... almost :080402gudl_prv::080402gudl_prv: :rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf: bring Cricket over here, we have lots of unlimited Autobahn to test ride .... i bring my 1Gen But, me thinks, you will find a Lot of Tears running down you Cheeks afterwards or i will be drowned ..... by a Tsunami of Excuses

1993 Venture Part-# is 26H-16150-00-00 the 2006 Vmax and Venture is 26H-16150-10-00 This Parts stayed overall the same, the -10-00 is the sign of a Revison

Baskets of a 2006 Vmax and a 2007 Venture are the same Partsnumber

Sorry Russel, i was obviously in Error ... So, please disregard what i've said regarding this Joke. I'd tought about the Issue, as i'm also Mod/Admin on a Board which is closed, for registrated Members only. Membership is free, no Charges but, dued to german Law and for safety Reasons of both, Members and Owner and Operators, was closed for public Access 3 Months ago. The 'Watering Hole' Section is not so pg-rated in some Threads, and one needs to be a Lot more open minded to look a some Pictures or Quotes the Members need to bring up. This has been, so far not that Problem for me, but i think i never would be as Kind as you've been ... I take out what i feel, doesn't belong there without any Notice. After reviewing by my Co's, not only one Item was surfaced again.

It's a bit concerning for me, as Religion does not take that Place in the german and european Society. I actually tought a Lot about it yesterday in the Evening while working on my Bike. If it wasn't be a Minister in the Game, maybe a Plumber, a Guy from the Phone Company or a Relative, this Joke would be the almost the same, but i'm quite sure that Russel would have let it go. So, once there is anything religious in the Game, Mankind seems to be getting eager. But there is more than just one Religion around the World and every Religion has their own Pracitices and NoGo's. In Fact, today is the Day which the islamic Ramadan Month is ending. A Big Feast for all those Folks. I just remembered the Dimension of Insult when the Drawings of that danish Magazine showed up, two Years ago. If we all feel offended by anything that is beyond our Understanding of political Correctness and religious Respect, we need to consider at least 4 or 5 of the 7 world spanning Religions. Man, that's a Lot of Rules to obey, a Lot of them i do not even know .... Hopefully, i do not get shot by someone i offended by accidenttaly running over a Cow, eating a Porkleg or drinking a Beer.

it was about a Grandma who was hitting her TV because it had poor Reception ... not bad, but noot thaaaaaat funny, me thinks ...

Nokia N95 has ...

That's a good Idea :cool10:

Hi Lynn, if you weld metal, you just need a AC Current Welder, Alumium Wire, a fittting Jet and the Argon Gas. Also, it's better to have a Teflon Inlet on the Handgun. It's not that hard to learn. The Angles and Movement is smiliar to steel. As you're not going to weld on a pressure Tank nor on a heavy stressed Part of a Machiniery, you will be good to go with some Exercise in almost no Time. Of Course, a TIG Welder would be the best, but this Kind of Welding is some more challenging than MIG. btw .... nice Mainfolds ... i see something (10 to 15 hp) coming ...

Well, that's the degrading Way Charlie's going anyway ... 1Gen, Honda, Car ... From a Bike to a Cage in a Minute, at least he can keep the License Plate Holder, will give him good Memories .... :rotf::rotf:

Nokia N95 is the Answer to all the Questions, only Thing which is most common for these 'eggspendingWoolMilkPig's(direct Translation of a german Term), the Battery won't hold up for long ... And to answer my Wife's immediately oncomming Question in Advance, no they can't bake a Cake and they can't make Coffee.... YET .... http://www.nseries.com/index.html#l=products,n95_8gb