Jump to content

Squeeze

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    3,716
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Brad, that's the best Way to tie the Bike down, first the front End, then the rear. Only Thing i do not like, are the S-stytled End on the Ties. I do not like them, and they are not the safest. Not only they can easily break or bend to open. If there is a fast Movement, they can just unhook themselves. Better would be anything which is a self securing System, Hook or Clamp does not matter.
  2. Hi, what Version do you use ?? I use 7.06 on the Umbrella in teh Systray, you choose start AVG, then open the Tab Scheduler. There should be two Job, one is Update, the other is full Systemscan or something like that. In the last Column, you can de-activate the Job, or doubleclick it to modify the schedelud Time.
  3. Hi Jeremy, not to drill the Lifter Holes is a bad Idea. You have to see these Kits as a whole new System. If you put on other Springs, you have to adjust the Force to the Sliders matching the Load of the new Springs. Friend of mine mounted a Stage1 Kit on his Max, didn't drill out the Holes and expierenced a really bad Gas Mileage and a bad Throttle Response. He found some Horses during his Tests but, tinkered a Lot on Idle mixture Screw and so on, but couldn't resolve the Issue. He dismounted later these Days. He really didn't want to drill the Holes and so, it did not happen to work right. Also, i really recommend to set the Floater Heights exactly, while working on the Carbs.
  4. :rotf::rotf:
  5. Veeeeeeeeeeeeeery nice Way to fix the Problem ....:rotf: Congrats to the new Ride :322:
  6. Is there really a Problem on the 2Gen's ?? What i've read, there is the Whine Thing, rear Brake too sensitive, ungreased Splines and ?? ?? Ok, some have other Problems, Ignition Lock, electrical Issues, which nobody knows for where they origin from and several other minor Things on single Events. But, does this make you think about another Brand ?? Yamaha is giving you 5 Years Warranty on a normally rock solid Bike with KNOWN!!! Issues ... What makes you think there are no such Problems on other Bikes ?? They all have their own Problems. ALL of THEM ... HD, Yammi, Honda, Kawa, Zuziky, BMW, KTM, you name it, i tell you about the Problems the Owners have or complain to have .... See, there is no other V4 Motor to have, and you sure will miss it.
  7. The Cannon has already a "MT-0?" Patch on it .... Probably MT-02 ?? Would be the missing one between 01 an 03 ??
  8. Hi, let me tell you something ... this is completly BS. And BS is a Kind Term to describe that Story. I think someone should take care of this Guy and pull his Instructor's License ... And .. no Smilies here, i am completly serious about this. This Guy is putting the Folks at his Classes in serious Danger. I don't want to know what other bad Stories he is used to spread on Customers who want to learn from the Classes and learn everything wrong. As for the Dealer ... if someone spreads such Words, he won't get not a Dime from my Pocket no more. Not even a Nickel !!! There are many Sites on the Internet that show you the hard Facts about M/C Braking. Just the Physics and that's enough to know. Use your front Brakes and when on a heavy Bike, which cannot lift the rear End as fast as a Sportbike, you can use the rear as a good working Assistence. Nothing else. Period Take a Look a MotoGP Race or AMA Superbike, if they brake, the rear Wheel is completly in Air sometimes, they ride only on the front Wheel under braking, they use a special Clutch called Anti-Hopping, because they want to keep control on the rear Wheel. Well, our Bike are not even in the same Book as those Racers, but the run under the same Laws of Physics.
  9. The Options are listed in the Link Monsta provided .... http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml# lower Half of Myth #1 ... Please understand, i am not going to say that you have such a Cementite Buildup. It's just an Option like others Members already listed above. I had my Share on Brakes and would sign a Lot of this Sites Statements, but not all of it. The Basics are what they are - FACTS ! But like others Issues, there are often more than just one Opinion. And a Lot more People have an Opinion.... This Discussion about Cementite came to my Mind and i thought that should mention it.
  10. Nope, no Directions on our Pads ...
  11. I remember having a Discussion about break in of Pads ... it's here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=138134#post138134 and Monsta's reply here ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=138249&postcount=7 Maybe you have some Cementite build up on on of the Rotors ??
  12. I second that. Dismount the Switch and take it apart. Gve it a good clean with a COntact Cleaner, (e.g. CRC 2-26) put everthing back together and be happy again.
  13. Hi, the Splines seems to be OK. Your Problems seems to be the Starter Clutch. It was discussed many Times here, and if you start a Search, you will find anything what you need to know. The Starter Clutch itself is behind the Flywheel. You need to undo the left front and rear Engine Cover and the Flywheel. Flywheel can be a real Challenge, without a fitting Gear Puller almost impossible to do.
  14. I also can't be quiet ... :rotf::rotf: Bashfull ?? No, not me .... I'm just sad about you're former Decision. These Bikes are really great, they may not be perfect, maybe your Bike has a real Problem. But giving up on an Issue, before they even did change the Basket is, imho, a too early Decision and not thought through to the End. Sure, you're not lugging the Engine ... nobody does it ... :rotf: 4th Gear on Backroads ?? This is like 5th Gear on my 1Gen, way to high Gear for the this Purpose on 50 or 60 mph. Ride it in 3rd Gear and Cricket will give you a whole new Feeling. There is enough Torque to ride it in 4th Gear ?? Sure, but, you know what, there a LOT of more Torque present when you do not Ride the Bike on Idle. :rotf:Get yourself a used Vmax final Drive, it should be around 100 to 150 Bucks, mount it and marvel at it. Period If not, resell it and i owe you a Bottle black labeled Jack Daniels ... Ok, no Speedo present for the Test Ride, but i'm sure you can handle this.
  15. Hi, the best Outcome i have ever made about Complaining Letters was when i send them direct to the CEO of the Company, 'personally' titled and registered. Of Course this was B2B, i was sending Letters to the CEO's of Mercedes-Benz and MAN, of Course both are to Truck Units. The Letters were well written, just stating all the Facts at First, then on the End, mostly on bottom of second or third Page, what i think they should do better in the Future fro their Customers. For me, it worked great, because at least the CEO want's to keep their Brand clean. They hand it over to their Subalternes, which are the Directors of Sales or Service, and they make them clear that they except nothing less then no more Letters in the Inbox ....
  16. Don, did you check the Emulsion Tubes for wear e.g. unround Borings ?? Someone mentioned it these Days. I know from the BDST38 Mikunis, these Carbs a know for a quick wear of the Emulsions Tubes, but not ours. But, if these Emulsion Tubes, aka the Needle Jet, the Tubes in which the Jet Needle runs into, is worn, the Gas can drip into the Intake and will cause a massive Drop in Mileage and a bit crappy Feeling in lower RpM and no good Throttle Response.
  17. Well, as i read you're Statement about cruising around in low RpM. This is exactly the Image i personally made up about you. You lugging the Engine. If you wanted to keep the Venture, i seriously would talk you into an Vmax final Drive. Most of your Problem is about revving the Engine to a Point where it likes to run. This Point is not between 2k and 3.5 k. It starts to run good at 3k and runs up to 7.5k .... But you decided to go back to the V2, so i keep my Mouth shut.
  18. Hi Don, i've downloaded the Workshop Manual here from the Library. On Section 6, Page 8 (Page 277 bottom) is the Measurement shown.
  19. Sorry, i'm not a Member on the Org you setted the Link to. This is the O-Ring #93211-54698-00 i was talking about. I'm not sure that this would solve you Problem. Because this O-Ring would leak at any Time, recently ridden or not. Only Difference is, while riding the final Drive gets warm and the Oil inside also warm, therefore also thinner. Imho, if you can see Oil only after a Ride, it would be most likly the Part No. 22 in the Yammi IPC which is # 93102-70167-00 OIL SEAL. But when other Sources say different, i'm not sticking to my Story. If this is a known Problem on the 2nd Gens there are some People who would know it better.
  20. AdVenture .... :rotf:
  21. Oil Seal on the Shifter Shaft ... Collector and Shift Linkage undone, pull the Oil Seal, clean everything, new Seal in ... 1 or 2 Hours Job on the Lifter, depending how good or bad the Collector goes undone Could also be the Clutch Slave Cylinder, but if that would occur, you would notice the Fluid Level on the Clutchreservoir dropping Carbs are the same for '84 to '93, only '83 is different, don't know for sure for the Main Jets, they should be slightly different
  22. Maybe the Dealer gets some Dollars back from HD? I know, here in Germany, there are Programs in which a Dealer can get some Money back from Factory, when they 'convert' a Customer to their Product. Just a Thought, please don't take the heavy Book to throw on me ...
  23. They won't be able .... This 2Gen looks old styled, even when new and in the Showroom ... :stirthepot::rotf:
  24. for the '83 and '84 it should be ... 26H-14941-06-00NOZZLE, MAIN for all others including Vmaxxes 26H-14941-90-00NOZZLE, MAIN Price ??? ooops ... '83 -'84 is $55.44 and for the others is $37.72 each at Powersportspro.com
  25. Good News .. now ... wait till next Year ... you can have the Pork Chops and everything else then also ... :cool10::cool10:
×
×
  • Create New...