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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Waterpump turns clockwise, Clutch is counterclockwise
  2. Squeeze
    Sorry, Zip Tie didn't come to my Mind, so i used a Translator which gave me Wire Strap... And another Sorry for suggesting a Zip Tie, i should have known better about the Tin.
  3. Squeeze
    Hey, thanks for investigating this and enlighten this Issue. I can see that this Upgrade works. The stock Bolts are Allen Head M8x25 in Grade 10.9. If John Ganey uses M10 Bolts this would add some Stability on the Assembly. Either the Bolt Heads need to be turned down to fit in the Clutch Housing or he's milling the Housing to accept bigger Bolt Heads. I will look in the Parts i have laying around if there is Chance of determining this specific. Since this is no big Deal, it's good Investment. If you know someone with a metal Shop, they might get this done for you locally.
  4. Squeeze
    A Wire Strap comes in quite handy for such Things. I got one permantly of the left Forkleg. It can move without harming anything and stays where it is when moving stops.
  5. Squeeze
    last update is ... he's got a Wing ......
  6. Squeeze
    Well, let's agree to disagree on the Shimming ... May my Point be strong or weak in your Opinion, it's just not worth the Work and Money AND the Piston Diameter won't fit with de-linking. I can't stop you anyway. Just make sure, if it goes wrong, i can still stop by and Slap your back of the Head and say "Hey, what i said ...." :rotf: I doubt that these floating Calipers would provide better braking Power than a Set well maintained MKII. As i remember some of your Postings, i'm sure that your Way to the DQ brings you through a Lot of long winded back Roads ,and because of your Weakness in DQ Matters, you're ought to take them as fast as you can. :) :) P.S. If you look out for very fine M/C's, outstanding Brake Power and Control and a very very nice Appearance, take a Look here ... http://www.isr-brakes.se/products/ I use their radial M/C's on my Max along with two 8-Pot Calipers in front and 320mm casted Discs ...
  7. Squeeze
    We agree on the Aluminium Thread for being the limiting Factor on the Pressure which can be applied to both, bare Clamp or shimmed Clamp. The Problem is, you have to bring on a Lot more Pressure to keep both, M/C and the Shim not only in place but prevent them from turning. If the M/C would slide sideways, that wouldn't be that dangerous, but if it's turning, there might be a real big Problem. Remember, this will definitely not happen while riding along the Boulevard to your favourite Hooter's or DQ, this happens when your desperately and strong grab after your Lever, the Brake Lever! Only Solution i could live with is to mechanically mount Shims to both sides of the Clamp. When saying mechanically, i mean, welding or Bolts or something like that. But that's Way to much Hassle and brings up new Problems on the Clamp side. That's all i have to say about this, i wouldn't do it and i won't suggest doing so. As you may have noticed, i keep on talking you out of this. It's too risky without Need and Risks we have enough while riding. We better do not add up home made Challenges. Floating Calipers are not the Way i would go. My personal Experience says they have not the best Performance, and so do experienced Guys. If you want to 'upgrade' your Brakes for better Performance and if you talk about a '86 upwards 1Gen, get a Pair blue Star Calipers from 2000 to 2005 Model FJR 1300, R1, R6. Delink the Brakes and feed both front Calipers with the 14mm M/C of your 1Gen. If your only looking for shiny Calipers, get a Set of 1Gen and get them chromed or ceramic coated. If that's not enough braking Power, make up some Brackets for 320 Brake discs and get 320 mm steel casted Discs. This will stop you on a Dime.
  8. Squeeze
    I agree. I was thinking the same by myself. But, you know ... i like discussing Tech and Toys ... even if it's in the false Place.
  9. Squeeze
    Shimming - Even if you try the make the best Shims in the World on a Lathe, made out of one Piece with a small Gap or made out of two half moon shaped Piece, the Amount of Pressure you can bring on the Shims and the Handlebar with those two 6mm Millimeter Bolts are not enough to put a secure Pressure on the Assembly. It sure will hold standard daily use, but in a dangerous Situation, the M/C can turn downwards when you try to grab into the Lever. Not as safe as i would want to be. I been there because of my Fault, not tightening the Bolts in secure Manner and believe me, this a Experience you won't share. As a Sidenote, i for one, i'm very sensitive to my Controls and Levers. They all have to be in THE right Place and when they not are where they should be, i stop immediately to correct this Issue. I wouldn't ride for more than one Block without proper Setting of the Levers on my Bikes. Piston Size - the 1Gen have 14mm Piston Diameter, that good to feed the front right Caliper in the liked Brake System. If you put a 2Gen M/C on your not delinked Bike, you have much more hydraulic Force on this one Caliper. The 2Gen M/C is 5/8 " and has also another Leverage Ratio. When you mount this M/C to feed your single Caliper, the usage of the front Brake turns into digital Excitement. This goes while pulling the Lever to ... no Brake, almost no Brake, BRAKE !!!!! So either you delink the Brakes and feed both front Calipers from the bigger M/C or you find a smaller Piston Diameter M/C, which doesn't exist from Yamaha, up to my Knowledge.
  10. Squeeze
    Which Year of the Final Drive are you talking about ? All the Pumpkins(20 to 25) i ever stumbled upon, has been the same. Just grab the Drive Shaft firmly and pull it out of the Pumpkin with one quick Movement. I've never seen a '83 rear End, so this might be different.
  11. Squeeze
    Oh ... if you're interested, i can provide Lots more of Names so you can give yourself a very bad Day ... Ok, the Memories for your Grandmother may brighten this a Bit, but you know, i can't stand it ... If you're interested, give me a Holler.... I totally agree on Yoko Ono, she's should have stayed in Japan for her Life. This would have made all four Beatles richer and the World delivered more good Music ...maybe John Lennon wouldn't have been shot
  12. Squeeze
    I agree to some Point on the Shimming, but keep in Mind, this can get dangerous. I wouldn't go for that. 2Gen Calipers might Work, when they physically fit to the Forks and you delink the Brakes. You will need new Brake Lines and depending if you use 3 Piece Lines or only 2 Piece Brake Lines, a T Connector. I used a T from a Vmax.
  13. Squeeze
    34 psi is 2.32 bar might be too less Pressure ... 40 might be a good Point to start with, adjusted on a cold Tire Can the a elevated Ride Height cause a Wobble Scenario ? Yes, it can. But i doubt that is the Problem you fighted with. Just make sure you have the Steering Stem Bearings well adjusted and !!! the Pinch Bolts on the lower Fork Brace loose while adjusting the Bearing. If the Pinch Bolts are tight during adjusting, you produce a tremendous Amount of preload on both upper and lower Yoke and this is NOT good. Don't forget to bolt them down after the Bearing adjustment is done! That all for now, i'm going to Bed.
  14. Squeeze
    How much Pressure on the Avon's ?
  15. Squeeze
    Floater Valve stuck or Valve Seat full of Crud.
  16. Squeeze
    I don't know what some Guys saying about fitting the Drive Shaf into the U-Joint. I pull it out of the Pumpkin, put some Grease on the front Splines, grab it at the rear Spline and fiddle it into the Joint. Fits mostly on th first Try seldom that i need a second ...
  17. Squeeze
    i say it again .... Baby Powder, Talcum, Chalk, Crayon ... anything like this will give you more Clue than chasing Leaks on a wet Carbs with a magnifying Glass ...
  18. Squeeze
    There is no single worst Case .... Too much to list them ... ever heard of "Oberkrainer" ?? No, this is not a Definition of a Sausage .... no
  19. Squeeze
    These cross meshed Parts just wear out a bit. The Shims can't wear out. Last two Motors i did, i just left the thinner Shim out when i bolted them togehter. I didn't use the Procedure which is discribed in the Manual. I felt the Lash of another Motor, which was unopened with my Fingers and used this Feeling and my common Sense for mechanic. Worked fine for me in both Cases. Both Motors have had two Shims prior to the Work i did.
  20. Squeeze
    That's what i thought also, What good will it do when the Bike runs with Airbox on and well balanced Carbs, when stopping the Leak needs everything undone again? Ah well, the Soul is in Piece, but i thought you're outbound to Daytona ?
  21. Squeeze
    Got some Baby Powder or something similiar at Home ?? If so, expose the Powder around the suspicous Areas and wait to see the Powder swept away.
  22. Squeeze
    You'd better forget about the Idea of fitting 2Gen Master to 1Gen. First, shimming the 1 Inch Diameter is a very bad Idea and you might end up in dangerous Situation, second, the Piston Size of the 2Gen is much bigger and you will convert your front Brake, if the System is not delinked, to a digital Excitement.
  23. Squeeze
    Gas leaking out might be on of the T-Connectors which feed the indivual Carbs. If a Carb Bowl is overfloated, the Gas comes out of the Overflow Hose, which should NOT end up in this Carb/Motor Area.
  24. Squeeze
    Once your onto the 3 Bolts which hold the round Part in Place, you do not need to remove the Bolts completly. Just loosen the Bolts and pull this Beast backwards. The Shims will come out to the left to right.
  25. Squeeze
    Don, please never mind. With all what you and your Family is going through at the Moment, no wonder that you miss something that insignificant. Not said that the Fluid Level is insignificant for Hipshot, but we got his back. All the Best for you and your Family.
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