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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Definitely sounds like a good Plan
  2. Squeeze
    Front tire seated bad, Front tire bad or Rim bent would be my guess out of your latest Statement. Why? Because in a U-Turn and very slow Speed you should not feel anything wobbling. If so, there is something mechanicaly involved.
  3. Squeeze
    You will need a fitting Hub Puller and ly some old Carpets or Pilows or several Layers of Cardboad in the Area. The Flywheel can jump out at you or the Floor. Other than this, you may not expect any real Difficulties. Watch out for the Wire which must brought back into the Flywheel Bolt before mounting the Cover.
  4. Squeeze
    Dan, do i read Doubts between the Lines ? I hope not. I respectfully say, with all the Work you've done so far, getting the Parts grinded to even out the Damage and make them stronger holding up on upcoming Rides will not make you fail. You will be just fine. Why ? Because you're not approaching the Job with a "Ok, lets do it" Attitude. You do not believe that the Project you have set up is easy and can be done between ordering a Pizza and making Appointment for the later Evening. You know you can do it, but you have Respect to the Challenge you're facing. You think about what has to be done and then take your Steps to make it happen. That's why i'm convinced that you will get everything together and working like it should. Just keep up the Attitude and the good Work.
  5. Squeeze

    New Ink

    Squeeze replied to Stratcat's topic in Picture Folder

    I like the Song titled like your hometown ...
  6. Squeeze
    Why not ask Yamaha about sending you a Poster or ask them mailing you a good and big Picture, so you could have it reproduced ?
  7. Squeeze
    Shame on me, Dan. I did left your Posting open to answer when i saw it last night, but a urgent Problem with my Friends Bike came up and we discussed this until 2 am local. I think, as Randy stated, the Gear and the Dogs are not worn that much and need or to be replaced. New Thrust Washer and undercut of the Dogs will make the Gears hold up for a long Time. I think i would give also the female Side of the adjoining Gear slight Work with a File or a Dremel, just to get the Edges a bit sharper than they are now. Then undercut the Dogs and you will be fine. A new Shiftfork will be in Order.
  8. Squeeze
    With the Bike on the Side Stand, just move it upright, place your right Foot on the Lever of the Center Stand, grab the left read Guard Rail with your right Hand and step on the Center Stand with your whole Weight on the right Foot. Meanwhile your left Hand on the Handlebar controls the upright Position of the Bike. If you like, you can pull a bit on the Guard Rail and it will lift easy. Might be helpful if you use more the center Area of your Foot than the Toe.
  9. Squeeze
    Yammi has 14 mm on a M10 Bolt or 17 mm, but never 13mm. 13 mm is former metric Standard.
  10. Squeeze
    You might consider to use a angled Grinder and carefully cut the Head off. Or you can use a 3/4 " Drill and bore the Head off. Now, undo the Wheel Axle and you can wiggle the Bracket with the Caliper to a Point where the Caliper slides out of the Bracket. If the Bolt is only locked up and not sticking inside the Thread, it will move after the Head is off and you can move it using Pliers or a Vise Grip. If you have Patience enough, you can try to grind the Bolt Head to smaller Size(12mm instead of 14mm) and use the smaller Socket.
  11. Squeeze
    For what i can see, this is a 4 Piston Caliper. And this would be standard for a '89. If the Pistons are sticking, you might consider rather buy a used Caliper in working Condition than buying the Repair Set for a Lot of Money. But, i said IF ..... might be a good Chance that the Pistons work and move like they should, but only the were set with that Offset and now wearing out angled ... My Honda Dealer has this done with very expensive Sinter Pads in 1985. I came back two Weeks later and with totaled Pads. He wouldn't agree on their Fault. Many many Thanks to him. This was the last Time any of my Bikes have seen a Workshop other than mine.
  12. Squeeze
    I've mounted a Bi-Xenon HID on my Max, Venture's will get it as soon as my Max is off the Lifter. I love it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11930&highlight=xenon
  13. Squeeze
    Brad, this might be a 'save the Planet' Thing or he's wants to do something good on his Fitness. Or, the 'civil servant which is survivin on fixed income during right wing government's destruction-of-the-middle-class campaign can't afford snow blowers' are just plain to stubborn to accept your generous Offer ... :rotf::rotf:
  14. Squeeze
    I'm still waiting on a Guy who is stepping up and mounts a 1Gen Clutch Basket in his Whiner .... Might not help at all, but since is was discussed here, that Yammi changed something in the Production since 2000 (or so, not sure when), there is a Chance that a older Basket will help. The Risks are .... 1.5 Hours of Work and a Gasket if a 1Genner would lend a spare Basket to the Tester.
  15. Squeeze
    There is not much of Installing ... just double click the .inf File, 2 Seconds later there it goes on the next Restart of the 'puta
  16. Squeeze
    This Gismo is Part of MS TweakUI , not standard on any XP
  17. Squeeze
    Common 'Problem' on the Vmaxxes. Mine lits up on almost every take off. Just check the Level, if it's fine, you are fine. If it's annoying you, on the next Oil change, dismount the Sender Unit and mount it back in with 180 Degrees turned. Now the Oil gets into the Sensors Boring from behind instead of stock front Inlet. As the Oil goes back in the Pan on Acceleration, it will stop flickering.
  18. Squeeze
    On a 2007 Bike, i sure not would accept different Keys ...
  19. Squeeze
    Place the Grease Fitting somewhere in the Neck, where you will have good Access when the Fairing is mounted. Therefore, a 90* angled is in Order. Same goes for the Suspension. The Swingarm Bearings don't need extra Grease, just pack them good while mounting. If you have someone with a Lathe, you might consider solid Motor Mounts. I have a Sketch if you want it. Of Course, you also can purchase them from Blue Ridge Mountain Sportsmax ...
  20. Squeeze
    and the Budget is not overdrawn ... :whistling: No, sincerly, i would do anything new which gets out of Range when the Bike is getting back together Step by Step. Complete Bearings on Steering and Suspension, questionable Innards of the Motor, Engine Breather Casing eventually. And check the inside of the Tank for Rust. Powdercoating is not bad, when the Supplier knows what to do and does a good Job. But the Downside of powdercoating is, once there is a small Cut or Damage in the Coating, you won't notice it until the darn Things brakes apart. Moisture and Water gets under the Coating and will never come out. Now add some Salt and wait until the Rust has done the Damage. I've seen this on electrical Cabinets and steel sheet Casings of Diesel Motors on my Trucks for a long Time. It looked fine for 3 Years and within 3 Months it looked like those Parts are 20 Years old. Now, i gave the Supplier loud and unambiguous Holler and they are back to painting these Parts. One of my local Buddies has had his Vmax Frame powdercoated, the Coat was so thick, we couldn't even read the VIN anymore. We carefully shaved most of the Coating off and repainted the Area. We had to work on all Seats and each Thread on the Frame. Therefore, i'm quite hesitating about Powdercoating a Frame. It might be fine with other Parts like Swingarm, lower Fork Tubes, Fenders and so on, but not on a Frame. Best Thing you can do on Frame is to nickel plate it. Looks almost like Chrome, but has many Advantages over Chrome and Paint. But this might be too expensive. Of Course, that's only my two Cents worth.
  21. Squeeze
    Hi Dan, these Bearings sure have arrived at the End of their Lifetime Cycle. There are several Ways to get the Races out of the Frame. If you have a Welder at Hand, just weld on the inside of the Race the complete Turn and the Races will fall out of the Frame. As you are probably going to enforce the center Stand Area, it might be the easiest Job doing this, while working on lower Frame. If not, just cut the Races in an Angle with a Dremel Cutting Tools on the Length of a quarter of the Race and fairly deep, break the Race with a Chisel and it will also come out easy. Now, on the lower Forkbrace, there are several Ways to undo the Bearing. If you can save the Washer with the attached Seal underneath the Bearing, you can buy a Set of good Industry bearings such as Timken or SKF. Industry Numbers are 32005 X and 32006 X. If the Seal is gone, you might go with Yamaha Parts. The Seal is important. Stay away from cheap Aftermarket Bearings, the Steel is too weak on them. Now, as you might know, grind the Seats on the Frame larger, that the new Races can move free and without any Pressure from the Seats and glue the Races in the Frame with Loctite 648 after the Paint Job is done. If you like to take an extra Mile, bore the Tubing, tap a Thread in the Tube where the Seats go and mount a 90* angled Grease Nipple. As for the ruined Paint Job... I'd get the Frame ice- or sandblasted. This is faster, cleaner and longer lasting than grinding. Save your Elbow Grease for the upcoming Job, you have enough on your ToDo List and i guess you want to ride this Year ?
  22. Squeeze
    Hi Dan, i would replace the 2nd Gear Shift Fork anyway. It really does not cost you an Arm and you have a new Part which will last for Years. Together with the upcoming undercut of the Gears and the new half moon shaped Lock-Washers on the Shaft, it will last a really long Time. For what i can see on the Pics, all looks not bad at all. And i don't see anything wrong with your Bench, the work Level seems a bit higher than a standard Bench, which may give you less Pain on your Back. Keep up the good Work and you will be a very happy Camper. PS. when i dismount a Motor, i take a Piece of Cardboard, mark the shape of the splitted Casing on it, take a Screwdriver and make Holes where every Bolts goes and put them in there. Makes everything easier while mounting later.
  23. Squeeze
    To me, it seems that your 'kindly offered Help' might be way too much misunderstood. And posting up such Pics after describing a fine Day of riding might be more than Cream on the Pie. There's a fair Chance that this could be seen as the Straw which broke the camel's back. That was my only concern ... :080402gudl_prv::080402gudl_prv::080402gudl_prv:
  24. Squeeze
    Thanks Don, i like it very much
  25. Squeeze
    Todd, if i were you, i really would examine my incoming Post, be it Envelopes or Packages before openeing it..... :rotf::rotf::rotf:
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