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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    I'm not with the 600W charging System. A newer Generation Bike will possibly have LED Lights and thereby a Lot of Energy is not needed to keep the Systems working. More Charging Power means constantly more Fuel Consumption unless the charging System has a Clutch or something else that really regulates the Power produced. Other than this, more Displacement is coming from the new Vmax, i would want a real good integrated Audio with a good Amplifier and a standardized Connection for the Devices i want to fill my Needs. EFI is coming anyway, dued to the EPA Standards. Awesome Brake Power. 330mm Rotors in front with radial Mastercylinder and radial mounted Calipers. Upside Down Forks. ABS with a real Switch to shut that System down. I would buy a ABS System on a new Bike anytime, but i wouldn't want use it. But later the Years, a Bike without ABS is worth a Lot less than the Bike would bring with the ABS.
  2. Squeeze
    Well i'm sorry, i have nothing to teach you more than you already know. I'm with you, the Difference in your Example is 5 Micron and i wouldn't make a huge Difference. But it would change the Point where the Lever bytes to a later Point. But with only 5 Microns more Diameter what would you gain other than a bigger Boring? The Chances that this Hole will get plugged are not essentially better than a with the smaller Boring. If you want to play it safe, the Hole has to a be lot bigger, e.G. 1.5 or 2 mm. This would make a Difference in both Aspects, premature plugged and effects the Lever Range. I'm sorry, no further Education from me at this Point ... :D P.S. not only Hondas have Baffles in the M/C. My Friends FZ750R has Baffles in both, Brake and Clutch M/C.
  3. Squeeze
    I would suggest the FA179HH for the front and FA 123 for the rear. HH is a sintered Friction Material with very good Brake Performance. The Pads without HH are standard organic Material and not so strong as HH. But with the rear Brake Setup of the 2Gens it might be a good Idea to use not such extra byting Pads.
  4. Squeeze
    You may believe the Boring Diameter is nearly insignificant, but it simply would lengthen the Way the Piston needs to travel to reach a specific Amount of Pressure. And the bigger the Hole is, the more free Way(unpressured) is in Action. Next would be to see this not in pure Length, but in Percent of the traveled Way. Not that i want to defend those Engineers in any Factory, it's just a Fact.You asked for an Explanation, now you got it
  5. Squeeze
    The bigger the Hole, the bigger the Travel of the Piston needs to be to seal it before any Pressure builds up.
  6. Squeeze
    I have no Experience with a plugged Motorcycle Tire and never will. I'm a cheap born and raised Swabian, but my Father didn't teach me any real dumb Things. Riding a plugged M/C Tire for more than i have to get home or to a Point where a new Tire is going to be mounted is just plain dumb. I don't say that it doesn't work, several Guys have proven that, but by any means, i'm not Crash Test Dummy enough to test it on my own. That all said, you know how much cost a Tire and how much would it cost to replace or repair my Bike ?
  7. Squeeze
    I ditto anything what has been said, plus, check the Mastercylinder where the feeding Line goes into the Case. There should be two Holes and both of them should be open and free of any Gunk when the Piston is depressed. If the Line heats up, the Fluid should expand into the Reservoir through one of those Holes, if this is blocked or the Reservoir is overfilled, Pressure builds up in the whole System and locks the Brake.
  8. Squeeze
    Unless you can't diagnose no Spark on the Plugs, i believe your Carb-Set need a serious cleaning Job.
  9. Squeeze
    I just spray a Piece of Cardboard before i go over to my Parts. Thereby, you can see if the Jet of the Rattlecan spits and you can adjust the best Distance for spraying. I spray all Edges with two thin Layers prior to the Areas. Wait 10 Minutes than proceed. I make a Cross Pattern on every Pass, ie. first move from left to right and then immediately after you finished that, spray a second Pass from up to down. Then wait 10 Minutes and make a 3rd and 4th Pass.
  10. Squeeze
    I think it wouldn't be a very smart Idea to cut the Engine Cover open. The whole Aerodynamics would be spoiled. Now, you could actually drive the Car, but the Drive-ability would suffer a Lot with almost no Down force on the rear Wing. Not to mention the huge Weight of the Motor, this would bring the whole Car mechanically out of Balance. Maybe i would talk to my Friend Marcel and make up a 1800cc Vmax Engine for the first Season. This would produce reliable 250 hp at the U-Joint at 7800 RpM. Easy to connect to the Transmission and more than enough Power to drive on the Ceiling at 170 km/h(110 mph). The Engine would fit under he Hood right behind the Monocoque. Only problem would be the Connection between Moncoque and Transmission. The Engine is integrated Part of the System and there needs to a Frame or something else to transfer the Forces. Sure, those Clutches are the same by Principle. The Bikes use wet Clutches, the Racing Clutches are dry and of course Carbon Fibre Plates. For what i know, the regular Rep. Set costs around 65000 USD. That'll be the carbon Friction Plates and the Titanium Discs.
  11. Squeeze
    Sorry, i didn't want to offend you in any Way. I just know that this can get very annoying with the final Drive connected to the Drive Shaft. Just grab the Shaft good and pull it with one sharp move out of the Pumpkin. After you greased the front Spline and fitted(fiddled) it into the U-Joint, just make sure the small Spring is on the Tip of the input Gear on the Final Drive. Then proceed with bolting down the Pumpkin and Tire ... If you can't get the Drive Shaft in Place now, you may consider opening the Bolts on the outer Stator Cover and turn the Crank with a T or Wrench, as you would do when you work on the Valve Clearances. When the Trans is in Gear, this moves the U-Joint and thereby also your Chances to find the Hole in the U-Joint.
  12. Squeeze
    Did you pull the Shaft out of the final Drive ? It's much easier to get the Shaft fitted without the Pumpkin.
  13. Squeeze
    Dan, you can't go into the Starter Clutch. Don't think about it...
  14. Squeeze
    Well, they didn't 'block' like Michael did ... it was just more stupid cruising than a 'smart Move'. I think your Corvair Motor wouldn't fit into that F1 Car. Way too big to fit under the Hood. Have you ever seen those small 2.4 L Engines ? You won't believe it. The dry Clutch Size is similar to the Clutch on our Bikes .... Maybe 1 Inch more in Diameter and holds up to 1000 hp.
  15. Squeeze
    210,000 Euro is more than 324,000 USD. Only downside is ... thats only the Car without Engine ... :D :D but all in all, it's very cheap for a late F1 Car. Shipping wouldn't be that much... You could even ask them to bring it with them F1 Freightliners in June... The Race was great. Qualifying was pretty much straight forward, except of both McLaren qualiyfied in 2nd Row and both gathered 5 Places backwards, because of blocking Heidfeld and Alonso in their fast Lap. Crash Quote wasn't bad at all ... A fine Race with some Mishaps and the good one wins it...
  16. Squeeze
    FLA State Sunshine Tax ??
  17. Squeeze
    12 mm It's a DPR8 EA-9 .. the D stands for 12 mm Thread
  18. Squeeze
    You are saying ... in Fact, you got a PM ...:rotf:
  19. Squeeze
    yeah, maybe your right, but i was late ....
  20. Squeeze
    there also a Helmet from Nicky Hayden, US MotoGP World Champion http://cgi.ebay.at/Moto-GP-Helmet-from-Nicky-Hayden_W0QQitemZ290211661913 NASCAR Experience Day ... http://cgi.ebay.at/NASCAR-Experience-with-Red-Bull-Racing-Team_W0QQitemZ290211712450 two Days Visit of a Red Bull Air Race in San Diego or Detroit http://cgi.ebay.at/Red-Bull-Air-Race-Package-meet-greet-Mike-Mangold_W0QQitemZ290211690682
  21. Squeeze
    Here the Link to a Charity Auction for a 2007 Red Bull F1 Car in Silverstone Race Configuration ... one and a half Hours left for Bidding ... http://cgi.ebay.at/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290216096131&ih=019&catego
  22. Squeeze
    Hi Steve, this Method sure will prevent the Flywheel from getting airborne, BUT you will produce tremendous Stress and Force upon the Thread of the Bolt and the Thread inside the Crankshaft. This is NOT good. As long as only the Thread on the Bolt is wrecked, fine, replace the Bolt and go on, but if the Thread in the Crank is ruined, you will be in serious Trouble. Therefore, i do not recommend doing this. I'd rather catch a flying Rotor than replace the Crankshaft, which means take the Motor out, replace Crank with new Bearings, and on and on ... Which means, costwise, better bring in the spare Engine. I have a Puller with a flat tipped hydraulic Spindle, and believe it or not, i'm afraid to use it even without the Bolt in Place. Sometimes, the Force of the Spindle is so heavy that the Washer is flattened between Spindle and Crank to half the origin Size. A Buddie on his Max wrecked two Pullers, used a Torch to heat up the Hub with Tons of Force on the Puller. Nothing helped. He ended up with cutting the Flywheel of the Crank with angled Grinder. Only save Solution i figured out, but didn't get to test yet, is making a Collar fitting between Washer and Crank with outer Diameter a bit smaller than inner Diameter of the Flywheel(around 28mm if i remember right) and a Height of some 1/10 Inch or 2.5 mm. This will take the Stress off the Thread and prevent the Flywheel from been catapulted into the Shop.
  23. Squeeze
    Hi, these 3 Bolts are M8 with 25 mm long at 10.9 Grade. Please don't use the standard 8.8 Grade. Other than this, the Damage is nothing special. That's happening quite often. I would replace everything including the 72th Wheel. Then used Loctite on the Threads and stake the Ends of the Bolts. If you have a Lathe, you can buy M10 Bolts turn the Heads down to 13mm to fit into the Clutch Housing, bore and tap the Flywheel with M10 and you should doing this the last Time on your Bike. P.S. If you can feel the Scratches on the Flywheel, it would be better to flatten these out. Not as far as polishing goes, but the Rollers should be able to move without catching anything under Way.
  24. Squeeze
    Jeff, i gotta say you just frightened me in first Place. The Term you used ... retired ... is in Fact a wrong Term. You should have said "I temporarily grounded the Blonde because of Maintenance Issues"
  25. Squeeze

    2ND Gen Brakes

    Squeeze replied to Tom's topic in Watering Hole

    These Carbone Lorraine are not bad. A bit more on the wear Side than EBC HH Pads. All in all, you can't beat EBC HH in overall, Performance, Wear, wear of the Rotor and Price.
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