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Squeeze

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  1. Squeeze
    Brian, i appreciate your honest Comment on the Mac. I'm not biased, just didn't get in serious Touch with a Mac, but this is what i heard and read. I like Win XP and Vista, if the Drivers work, but i'm tired about the 'get a Mac' Quote. btw, you whose making a living out of IT. Even if Linux is cheap or cost free in first Place, you Guys will be needed anyway.
  2. Squeeze
    I'd raise my Hand. Shipping wouldn't be a Problem for me.
  3. Squeeze
    You know the Rule .. Pics ??
  4. Squeeze
    If you have to search for Neutral, check all the Linkage for slack. The Shift Lever needs to have a custom made Collar, because the Area where the Axle Mounts is worn. Like i said before, the Neighbor usualy has to have a Lathe and will turn one for you out of Brass. Drill the Shift Lever, glue the Collar inside the Lever with red Loctite and be a happy Camper.
  5. Squeeze
    Greg, this probably may help you http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/cleaning_pilot_jets.htm This targeted on Vmax, but the Procedure on your Carbs is not different.
  6. Squeeze
    Brian, my Windows NT Machine, installed 1998, had a Uptime for more than 3 Years. Last reboot was for installing a Program. Has had even more Uptime prior to that Installation. Never let me down, exept for one Time where the Power Supply Unit failed. This was ... 2001 when i remember right. And to finish my Comments on the Mac Issue. If there would be Millions of Programers worldwide writeing Programs for MAC's, there would be ons System Crash after the other. The Flexibilty of different Hardware is causing a Lot of Trouble. But this a Problem Apple never wil have. They make legacy Computers with strictly limited Hardware, like they do Mp3 Players and Phones recently.
  7. Squeeze
    On the serious Side, this Guy is making a real 'funny' aka impertinent Comment. Maybe it's Time for him to visit Dan on the Job ?
  8. Squeeze
    Hey Skid, don't let yourself down ... The Video is 10 Seconds !!!:rotf::rotf:
  9. Squeeze
    Hey thanks Dan for taking the Time to Post. I think you have a Bike to repair ?? You better get busy, there's a serious riding Season on the Doorsteps. As i wrote Minutes ago, this Axle is a bit different. Because of ... i don't know of U-shaped Retainer Block inside the Guts, you have to turn the C-Clips in a horizontal Position before pushing the Shafts in. The Shafts won't move in when the C-Clips are off that Position. At least this is was Clymer states.
  10. Squeeze
    Dray, i'm in no Doubt that a used Diff from a Salvage Yard would cost a Lot Less than rebuilding mine. But here, is NO Salvage Yard that carries such Parts. Tools are not a Problem, i have everything needed and a Lot more. Meanwhile, i found a Pic. In Fact, it's more a Clymer Manual i bought during the Transfer Case/Transmission Crisis and just plain forgot about it. :whistling: It didn't help at that Time and i misplaced it somehow. But as i wrote a Posting about where is the Pickup Coil Connector, it came up in my Mind and when i got Home half an Hour ago, i found it ... Just for the Record, it's soooo easy to pull the Shafts out. Just undo the Wheels, Brake Drums, Axle Cover, undo the Lock Screw, pull the Pinion Shaft half out, push the Retainer Clips into the right Position, push the Shafts towards the inside, undo the C-Clips and pull the Shafts out carefully. Now here's where the Clymer ends. But not me.
  11. Squeeze
    Three Wires are the Stator. The 5 Wire Connector is the one you're looking for. But don't ask me about which Colours you need to check. I have nothing here to look up the Wireing Diagram or the Troubleshooting in the Shop Manual. Maybe later, when i'm home, or another Guy has the Information at Hand right now. The Setting is inside the Ohm Ranges, greek Omega, or the inside lower middle to lower left Scales on your Device. 200 Ohm is the Range you may need. If the Value exceeds your Ranges try to go on turn to left to 2K Ohm. One Wire into the 'Com' Port and the other into the Port above(V, Ohm,mA). btw ... you did check the Fuses for outgoing Voltage ? The Fuse Panels tend to go south by Age, even when Fuse itself appears to check fine, there is no Voltage on the Outport.
  12. Squeeze
    It sounsd like SpySheriff or some other Malware like this. I'm sure it can be removed without renewing the whole Installation, but i think our resident Computer Cracks might step up to the Plate. I've done that on my Office Machine once, it really wasn't Fun and took about a whole Day. But a new Installation would have cost me a Lot more Time.
  13. Squeeze
    You need to download the Shop Manual and check Voltages on several Items in use. Sure there is a Timing Sensor at the Flywheel, it's a double Sensor Setup inside the Stator Cover. You don't need to undo the Starter Clutch nor the Cover itself to measure the Resistances on both Pickup Coils. The Connector is on the left Side near the Frame in a little behind the Area where the Carbs and the Airbox fit together.
  14. Squeeze
    Rear Axle is rumbling. We opened the Cover and found some Slack in the Pinion Gear, but not excessive. We found the Gears in the Diff are moving a bit more than they should. There is too much Freeplay and one of two Gears is tilting inside the Case or the Bearing, IF there is a Bearing which can be dismounted. If i would have a exploded View of the Axle and the Diff, we could continue to take it apart in a safe Manner. Currently, we have no Clue how to get the Shafts out. I believe there are Bearings on the Gears which transfer the Power from the Diff Casing to the Shaft Gears, don't know the exact Name of them in English (Differentail Gears?). I have only a Haynes Manual for the 1988 to 1993 Trucks and the Axle appears not even close to be the same. It's a 14 Bolt Cover and as i researched, this is not so common on these Trucks. I think it's a 9.5" Ring Gear. One after another, i start to dislike this Ride. I had to replace the Diesel Computer, which one smart GM Engineer placed right on the hottest Spot of a V8 Engine inside the "V". Shop here quoted more than 2000 Euros Cost, without Labor replacing the whole Injection Pump. I bougth a remanufactured Pump with Computer by Ebay Amerika, did cost me 650 Euros with all Taxes and Customs. Mounted by myself with a self made extended Wireing Harness to get that Computer out of the hot Spot and on a self made a Cooler Assembly. After we got it running again, Transfer Case and front Drive needed massive Overhaul. Quote was another 2000 Euros. We fixed it for 280... and 30 Hours Work. This, all in all did cost me around 10 Months downtime of the Truck. Ok, it's more a Toy than a needed Tool, but anyway.... very annoying
  15. Squeeze
    I've checked it out. No Luck :confused24:
  16. Squeeze
    Sidestand Switch and Engine Stop Switch on right Handlebar.
  17. Squeeze
    Hey Folks, i'm looking for a Parts Fiche for my 1997 GMC C1500 4WD Pickup Truck. I'm looking at Problems at the Drivetrain, be it Drive Shafts Bearing or the Differential and would like to find a Parts Diagram similiar to Yammi IPC or several other Parts Catalogs. Do you know an Link to such a Site ? I did a lookup at Google, but i seem to use the wrong Keywords.
  18. Squeeze
    I'm NOT, Harley Drivers can't imagine the Combination between Power AND Torque these V4's deliver.
  19. Squeeze
    Hey .... nice Move !!! Sure made you looking very cool :D :D btw you can lift the front End of any Bike. If you train it, you just need you accelerate in 2nd Gear, abruptly turn down the Throttle and while the Fork is travelling down because of missing Thrust, open the Throttle full open. If you hit the best Point with Forks expanding due to the Springs and Motor on best Torque pulling hard, the Wheel comes up easy. Much easier with a Passenger behind you and REALLY cool looking 2 up.
  20. Squeeze
    He was impressed by the Brickyard and made up good Lap Times, close to the computed Times.
  21. Squeeze
    I think he can make it tomorrow. Third Race on Brickstone Tires and he got the new Motor with more Power now. I'm also looking for Rossi in first Place, even if Colin Edwards is quite impressive this Year. Casey Stoner seems to be the only hot Ducati Iron. But these Seasons Bikes seems easy to ride, all Newcomers can offer respectable Results.
  22. Squeeze
    Pos. Driver/Bike Time 1. Jorge Lorenzo (E), Yamaha 1:35,715 min. 2. Dani Pedrosa (E), Honda + 0,233 sec. zur. 3. Valentino Rossi (I), Yamaha + 0,484 4. Nicky Hayden (USA), Honda + 0,551 5. Colin Edwards (USA), Yamaha + 0,574 6. James Toseland (GB), Yamaha + 1,075 7. Andrea Dovizioso (I), Honda + 1,283 8. Randy de Puniet (F), Honda + 1,508 9. Casey Stoner (AUS), Ducati + 1,538 10. John Hopkins (USA), Kawasaki + 1,631
  23. Squeeze
    Hey Dan, really good News !!! !!!
  24. Squeeze
    Well, i thought that the Best Device to avoid getting run over from behind is the twist on the Throttle Grip ? ? :rotf::rotf: Other than this, i second your Statement
  25. Squeeze
    To my Understanding, such minor Changes in the Oil Level do not effect Damping or Rebound on our Forks. When you put more Oil in, the Air Chamber is reduced and the because this, on the End of the Fork Travel there's a bit higher Pressure inside the Tubes and thereby a bit more Air Damping Capability. Does your Fork use the complete Way of Travel ? You can check this by mounting a Tie Strap around one Leg, carefully bring the front Tire against a Wall and push it all the Way down. There are two Way to bottom out the Forks, first and standard is the mechanic reaches the End of Travel, the second is to reach the End of hydraulic Travel, that's when you controlled overfill the Forklegs. I for one would not allow my Max the complete Travel of 120 mm, i wanted to allow only around 100mm of Travel, so i overfilled the Tubes by 20mm. Standard Airchamber is 140 to 150 mm at a maximium Travel of 120 mm , i gave it only 120 mm Airchamber and now have only 98 mm of hydraulic Travel allowed. Which means the Fork are very stiff on the End of the Travel and can not bottom out mechanical. Of Course, this is a completly adjustable UpSide Down Fork and it's the Way i like it.
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