Jump to content

SilvrT

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10,878

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    You mean rotor...right? The rotor is new and shows no wear signs. Yep...that's a good idea... I could get someone to be running to the left of me soas when he's leaned, his ear would be close to my bike!!!
  2. SilvrT
    Avon VenomX hard to articulate how loud it is... think of the sound you'd get running your wet finger around the edge of a wine glass...something like that kinda sorta...
  3. SilvrT
    I was wondering about that myself but it seems too "loud" so I ruled it out. It's like going from no sound to a medium "whine" and as soon as I'm off that "angle", it's totally gone. This has really got me stumped but at the same time, it's bugging me to know what the h*ll it is.
  4. SilvrT
    I posted this before...tried a couple things..problem still exists. First of all, it ain't the woman on the back coz I've had 3 different ones and I really can't believe they all squeal exactly the same and at exactly the same time! Here's the problem... when doing a tight right curve such as one of those you'd find in a freeway on/off ramp at a good clip (around 100 km/h), I get this squealing/whining sound. It only appears under this condition and it seems that if I'm not leaning quite enough or leaning too far, it goes away. In other words, while making the corner, I change the lean angle of the bike and the squeal goes away...put the lean angle back to what it was and there's the squeal again. This doesn't happen in a left curve. It's also less obvious without a passenger (but still exists). It also doesn't happen doing the same curve at a slower speed. Here's what I've done... changed both front and rear wheel bearings. Changed rear rotor. Cleaned and re-greased rear wheel. All internal components in rear wheel appear in good shape. Anyone experience this and/or have any clue what might be causing this? Thanks.
  5. SilvrT
    I should mention that it does produce a very good shine but it is prone to minor "orange peel" appearance if you hold the spray can too far away or if your spray "pass" is too quick, etc, etc. The "orange peel" is minimal and not in all areas...again, depending on how good you are at spraying it. I found (for my personal preference) that some wet sanding and rubbing out produced the quality of the end result that I was looking for (glass smooth with a mirror image shine). I haven't done that to all of the bike mainly because some of the areas are quite close to that already so am still debating if I will or won't rub those areas out...maybe during the winter when I got nothing else to do....
  6. SilvrT
    Correct-o-mundo! We are in agreement! I think we're getting close to resolving this "misunderstanding". Lacquers and Urethanes (in spray cans) are without a doubt better than enamels (or whatever else there is out there). The quality of the end result of the commercially available "spray cans" varies from one brand to the other. Years ago I painted one of my bikes (Honda 500/4) using lacquer spray cans. It was multi-colored with some graphics and flames. I clear coated that with clear lacquer and polished it out. Never had any problems with spilled gas or anything else. That product is quite good but as I stated, it does require curing time. I have spilled a bit of gas on it and there's no evidence of paint damage. I tell you, if I had a compressor and a gun, I most definately would not have used spray cans simply because a) a gun can cover a much larger area since it has a larger spray pattern, b) a gun is much more "controllable" as to size of spray pattern, amount of paint, air pressure, etc, c) a gun would have been much better for the clear because I would have been able to use a 3 part urethane clear and I could have shot it at whatever consistency I wanted. That kind of clear would have produced the same end result I achieved after wet sanding and rubbing out the spray can clear without having to do that. There are a number of factors which dictate whether a person uses a compressor/spray gun -OR- spray bombs -OR- take to a paint shop. Let's rule out paint shop due to cost and irrelevancy of the topic. To go with a compressor/gun, first you have to have that equipment. Second, you need to know how to use it. Third, you need a relatively decent place (shop) plus proper protective gear. Fourth, the fumes can't be an imposition on your neighbors, especially if they live in the basement suite of your house and your shop is an attached garage. First ... don't have the equipment and could not justify the investment in it at this time (for 1 paint job). Second is no problem for me. I had a body shop/paint shop years ago and I've done lots of paint work. Third...well, that "could" have been "rigged up" to work. Fourth...totally eliminated using my own garage. So, it was either spend $700 (or more) which according to others isn't that much, and take all the parts to a shop, or use spray bombs. I spent a lot of time and some testing determining what would work best. I tried a number of different commercially available spray can's as well as a few different clear coats. I settled on the products I mentioned because they were the only things that actually did the job according to my personal criteria. I am proud of the results I've achieved and sharing all this with others is a means of demonstrating that using "spray cans" will work. It was not my intention to imply that "any old spray can paint" will suffice. I thought my explanations of what I used were fairly clear. I will add to all that I've said for the benefit of others who choose to try doing it themselves....I have a LOT of experience with automotive painting and the end results that I achieved could not necessarilly have been possible without at least some of that knowledge. Producing a quality finish such as that on autos, bikes, etc is not for those who don't have a natural "knack" for it and/or have little knowledge about it.
  7. SilvrT
    I've NEVER used that (or anything else) on plug threads. I suppose it's not a bad idea but I've never seen a situation where is should have been used and I've changed 100's of plugs over the years. (just my $0.05)
  8. SilvrT
    LOL!... was that an "accidentally on purpose" thing?
  9. SilvrT
    I created an account but the link now says "The topic or post you requested does not exist"
  10. SilvrT
    All I get from that link is a login screen. How about copying the info and pasting it into here?
  11. SilvrT
    Gary, did you get your's south of the border or up here somewhere?
  12. SilvrT
    There are several posts on this topic, here's one I found for ya... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10781&highlight=tabs I did a search for "tabs". Plastex (plastic weld) seems to be the preferred repair material. Whatever you use, make sure it's for ABS plastic.
  13. SilvrT
    1/2 inch drive sockets/ratchets, etc are generally too big for working on motorcycles and 3/8 or 1/4 drive are much better. usually a good idea to stick with one "common" size and 3/8 would be my suggestion. As for the torque wrench, I rarely use one and would probably only use one if I was tightening down the heads or bearings such as main bearings or con rod bearings because proper torque is critical there. (all IMHO)
  14. SilvrT
    And once you polish them out, they will look as good as any "professional" job. I have polished out most of my parts and the finish is glass smooth and produces a mirror image. I might also mention that I did not get any runs or dust particles either. The only downfall to using "spray cans", IMHO, is that the area being sprayed cannot be too large. Further, you have to be quite quick and your spray stroke has to be considerably more accurate to get an even coat that properly overlaps on each spray stroke due to the quite small spray pattern of a spray bomb. The size of some of the components on our bikes I would say, is borderline on being too large for using spray bombs. Many spray bombs nowadays have a much better spray nozzle than years ago. These new style nozzles give a much better and wider spray pattern.
  15. SilvrT
    OK, you are entitled to that. Maybe there's some mis-understanding here... I dunno... I apologize if I caused it but you (and anyone else) is entitled to disagree. I did not say that "spray cans are the same as body shops use"..what I did say is "the paint is the same paint as that used in spray gun applications on any vehicle". Mortch said "Do not use a spray can". I then asked "and why not?" and went on to explain further what exactly it was that I used. I still haven't gotten a clear answer to that. Mortch did not say using spray cans is bad but he did imply that if you use them, you're really not serious. You then disagreed with me and stated that "paint cans are either lacquer or enamel". Now, from my perspective here, I'm wondering who's giving the "blanket statements"? What I do know is that I used a spray bomb. It was filled (they come pre-charged and there are machines for filling them with whatever kind of paint you want)... it was filled with automotive "base coat" color used in 2 stage paint...exactly the same paint used in auto paint shops. I stood there and watched as they mixed it and filled the spray cans. They used the exact same mixing formula from the exact same mixing machine they use to mix all the automotive colors that they distribute to the paint shops. Base color requires no special hardeners added to it just prior to spraying and that's why it can be put into a spray bomb otherwise, it would turn to gell and eventually harden inside the can. What more can I say??? As far as disagreeing with anyone or thing, I would have to say that I disagree with both Mortch and your statements about not using "spray cans" and neither of you have offered up any solid reason why not. I am interested in knowing "why not" though and am not opposed to changing my mind about it if anyone cares to convince me "why not". A few of the members have actually seen my bike since I painted it and were quite impressed and could not believe that I used "spray bombs". Now, either their comments were genuine or they are hypocrits and were just saying those things to appease me. I prefer to believe that they were genuine.
  16. SilvrT
    My '85 had one there... the '87 doesn't... and I almost didn't buy it because of that!!!
  17. SilvrT
    Nathan, my bike was the 2-tone "blond" color... mello yellow and gold as I call it. I liked the color and probably wouldn't have repainted it just for the sake of painting it but I had a lot of cracks in the bottom and edges of the trunk and the side bags. There was also some scraping on the edge of the fairing where the previous owner dropped it. I needed to fix all of that and so I decided I might as well re-paint the whole thing. The original paint on these bikes is of such high quality that, if taken care of, will last forever.
  18. SilvrT
    Either you didn't fully read my post or I didn't clarify it...one or the other so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt. The paint in the spray can was "charged" by an auto paint supply store with base coat color (from 2 stage paint) used in all auto body paint shops. The clear coat is much similar to 2 stage clear except that it is 1 stage. Check the website for this product... Clear #1- UV Resistant High Gloss Clear Coat http://www.u-pol.com/countries/us/navigate.htm Yes, "Lacquer thinner melts plastic" but if you use a good primer over the plastic and let it dry thoroughly, the lacquer won't affect the plastic (unless of course you lay it on so thinned out and with heavy coats that it's running all over). In fact, I used a lacquer based primer which didn't cause any issues with the ABS material. However, I didn't sand all of the original paint right off down to the bare plastic either...just a few spots on edges and where I did repairs. "Enamel needs baked to get hard"... that's only true if it's not acrylic enamel. While the paint I used is neither enamel nor acrylic enamel nor lacquer, it was dry to the touch in 15 minutes and could be taped within 1 hour. The clear on the other hand, while dry to the touch quite quickly, required a few weeks to fully cure to the point that I could safely power polish it. The process of "baking" that shops use, in my opinion, is not a requirement but rather, it speeds up the curing process so that when delivered to the customer, it's already "cured" and there's no special care required by them. I painted many vehicles with acrylic enamel and not once did I "bake" it, yet within a few hours after spraying it, it was as hard as nails. I've also painted with 2 stage and the clear coat requires a "hardener" which after spraying requires a bit of time to cure...."baking" speeds up this process. These "spray bombs" I used required no special breathing apparatus, nor did I feel any ill effects from their use; however, high-volume spraying with regular spray equipment definately requires special breathing equipment because that amount of exposure is definately harmful and possibly even deadly. Well, that's my "eggspeareance" anyway...take it or leave it.
  19. SilvrT
    I remeber now... the cover for the adjustable passenger backrest. total parts = 21
  20. SilvrT
    Not that difficult... I removed both the top and bottom bands and got them back on without any trouble at all. and why not? Mine looks great and the paint is the same paint as that used in spray gun applications on any vehicle. Granted, it takes a lot more practise and patience to get a good, even coat and the clear I used required sanding with 1200 wet/dry and a good polishing to get that "wet glass" look.
  21. SilvrT
    to get all those parts "separate", there's a lot of other pieces that have to be removed.
  22. SilvrT
    Parts to be painted... Fairing left Fairing right fairing connector (underneath headlight) fairing left lower fairing right lower fairing lowers front connector air dam (if you have one) headlight shroud battery cover gas tank lid left side cover right side cover travel trunk top travel trunk bottom front fender (following is '86 and newer) left side bag lid left side bag right side bag lid right side bag lic plate bracket/mud guard cover that's 20...what'd I miss??
  23. SilvrT
    I did mine with spray bombs which were filled by an auto paint supplier. The "color coat" is the same as 2-stage. They also had ready-made clear coat in spray bombs. The color coat spray cans were about $21 each and the clear was about $23 each. If I were to add up all the paint, primers, sand paper, etc, etc.. I'd guess about $400 in materials. Now realizing all the "fuss and bother" involved in just the painting process, I should have spent the extra $300 and taken the parts to a shop. On the other hand, it was a bit of a "labour of love" coz I can at least say "I did it all --- my way!" LOL Yes, the labour hours involved is a LOT!!! Hindsight; however, is 20/20 and if I were to do it "all" again, I wouldn't use the spray bombs for the clear but rather, proper spraying equipment. Fortunately, I have experience with all of this... so many folks do not.
  24. SilvrT
    You may get a shock... body shops here wanted around $700 and that was with me delivering the parts prepped for paint already. I wound up doing it myself.
  25. SilvrT
    I don't have those on mine... when did they start using them and are they really necessary?
×
×
  • Create New...