Jump to content

SilvrT

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10,878

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    Nathan, I've been following your many posts from day 1 and as blunt as this may seem, I gotta say that I think you should dump that bike and get yourself a good one. Seems to me it's nothing but one problem after another for you. I honestly feel for you bud. There's nothing worse than having a scoot that is continuously "breaking down"...especially when one doesn't have the wherewithall to fix it. You need to get a good, reliable scoot so you can get out and ride and enjoy this. BTW, not all used bikes (or anything else for that matter) are problematic or disposed of by the previous owner because of same. Most every vehicle I've ever owned (bikes included) has been pre-owned. Yes, I've had a few bad ones but most of them have been good, reliable, vehicles. It's oftentimes situations such as yours that tend to put a sour taste in one's mouth. As the old saying goes, "one bad apple....". My apologies for speaking my mind.
  2. SilvrT
    Since it explains everything...does this mean we'll not hear any more outta YOU??? :rasberry::rasberry: :rotf:
  3. SilvrT
    Are these available for a 1st gen? I went to their site but didn't see a listing for them.
  4. SilvrT
    Never heard of that. Is it primarilly for loosening rusted things? What about acting as a water/moisture inhibitor/repellant?
  5. SilvrT
    I've done this on both my '85 & '87 ... not all that difficult. Try and save those gaskets... yamaha replacements are expensive! Use lots of WD40 on the clamp bolts and let it sit for a day.
  6. SilvrT
    I'm wondering if chaps or leather pants help ?
  7. SilvrT
    Here ya go....:rasberry:
  8. SilvrT
    I had the same thing on my '85. It seemed to come in around 90 km/h. I believe the rpms were around 3000. It would only do that right around those rpm's so either I'd go faster or slower or change gear. It was more evident in 4th & 5th than lower gears. It bugged the bejeesus out of me. My current ride ('87) doesn't do that at all but it does have a "grinding/chirping/whining" kinda sound on deceleration. I had my '85 for 5 years and never could get used to that noise. Now, with my '87, I'm learning to just ignore this sound I'm hearing and ride...ride...ride! Planning on rippin her apart this winter and check everything over and fix whatever needs fixing....etc.
  9. SilvrT
    So, what do ya do with a hot long-legged woman who tends to wear pants most of the time? Gotta find a way to get her to show off those beauties more often!!! *snikker* (not meanin to sabotage this thread here but it is about "hot legs"! )
  10. SilvrT
    My passenger's legs are hot all the time... and I ain't doing NOTHING to change that!! :D:D
  11. SilvrT
    Air filter plugged? Put a K&N in it.
  12. SilvrT
    Pretty much the same for me. I'm wondering...if you need 3500rpm to pull away from a stop, mebbe you're starting out in 3rd gear??
  13. SilvrT
    Meanin that nothin falls off a 1st gen......(just to clarify) Now, I just know that some folks might interpret this as implying that things DO fall off "other gen's"... :rotf:\
  14. SilvrT
    Except me of course! (mebbe the woman too eh? lol)
  15. SilvrT
    Radio off. I was thinking about that "early warning signal"... I know these 1st gen's are SUPERIOR bikes -BUT-, that goes a bit beyond available technology methinks!
  16. SilvrT
    I'll try the "ease in the rear brake" test and see what that does. Rear tire air has been adjusted...no effect. Tires aren't that old...lots of tread left.
  17. SilvrT
    You mean rotor...right? The rotor is new and shows no wear signs. Yep...that's a good idea... I could get someone to be running to the left of me soas when he's leaned, his ear would be close to my bike!!!
  18. SilvrT
    Avon VenomX hard to articulate how loud it is... think of the sound you'd get running your wet finger around the edge of a wine glass...something like that kinda sorta...
  19. SilvrT
    I was wondering about that myself but it seems too "loud" so I ruled it out. It's like going from no sound to a medium "whine" and as soon as I'm off that "angle", it's totally gone. This has really got me stumped but at the same time, it's bugging me to know what the h*ll it is.
  20. SilvrT
    I posted this before...tried a couple things..problem still exists. First of all, it ain't the woman on the back coz I've had 3 different ones and I really can't believe they all squeal exactly the same and at exactly the same time! Here's the problem... when doing a tight right curve such as one of those you'd find in a freeway on/off ramp at a good clip (around 100 km/h), I get this squealing/whining sound. It only appears under this condition and it seems that if I'm not leaning quite enough or leaning too far, it goes away. In other words, while making the corner, I change the lean angle of the bike and the squeal goes away...put the lean angle back to what it was and there's the squeal again. This doesn't happen in a left curve. It's also less obvious without a passenger (but still exists). It also doesn't happen doing the same curve at a slower speed. Here's what I've done... changed both front and rear wheel bearings. Changed rear rotor. Cleaned and re-greased rear wheel. All internal components in rear wheel appear in good shape. Anyone experience this and/or have any clue what might be causing this? Thanks.
  21. SilvrT
    I should mention that it does produce a very good shine but it is prone to minor "orange peel" appearance if you hold the spray can too far away or if your spray "pass" is too quick, etc, etc. The "orange peel" is minimal and not in all areas...again, depending on how good you are at spraying it. I found (for my personal preference) that some wet sanding and rubbing out produced the quality of the end result that I was looking for (glass smooth with a mirror image shine). I haven't done that to all of the bike mainly because some of the areas are quite close to that already so am still debating if I will or won't rub those areas out...maybe during the winter when I got nothing else to do....
  22. SilvrT
    Correct-o-mundo! We are in agreement! I think we're getting close to resolving this "misunderstanding". Lacquers and Urethanes (in spray cans) are without a doubt better than enamels (or whatever else there is out there). The quality of the end result of the commercially available "spray cans" varies from one brand to the other. Years ago I painted one of my bikes (Honda 500/4) using lacquer spray cans. It was multi-colored with some graphics and flames. I clear coated that with clear lacquer and polished it out. Never had any problems with spilled gas or anything else. That product is quite good but as I stated, it does require curing time. I have spilled a bit of gas on it and there's no evidence of paint damage. I tell you, if I had a compressor and a gun, I most definately would not have used spray cans simply because a) a gun can cover a much larger area since it has a larger spray pattern, b) a gun is much more "controllable" as to size of spray pattern, amount of paint, air pressure, etc, c) a gun would have been much better for the clear because I would have been able to use a 3 part urethane clear and I could have shot it at whatever consistency I wanted. That kind of clear would have produced the same end result I achieved after wet sanding and rubbing out the spray can clear without having to do that. There are a number of factors which dictate whether a person uses a compressor/spray gun -OR- spray bombs -OR- take to a paint shop. Let's rule out paint shop due to cost and irrelevancy of the topic. To go with a compressor/gun, first you have to have that equipment. Second, you need to know how to use it. Third, you need a relatively decent place (shop) plus proper protective gear. Fourth, the fumes can't be an imposition on your neighbors, especially if they live in the basement suite of your house and your shop is an attached garage. First ... don't have the equipment and could not justify the investment in it at this time (for 1 paint job). Second is no problem for me. I had a body shop/paint shop years ago and I've done lots of paint work. Third...well, that "could" have been "rigged up" to work. Fourth...totally eliminated using my own garage. So, it was either spend $700 (or more) which according to others isn't that much, and take all the parts to a shop, or use spray bombs. I spent a lot of time and some testing determining what would work best. I tried a number of different commercially available spray can's as well as a few different clear coats. I settled on the products I mentioned because they were the only things that actually did the job according to my personal criteria. I am proud of the results I've achieved and sharing all this with others is a means of demonstrating that using "spray cans" will work. It was not my intention to imply that "any old spray can paint" will suffice. I thought my explanations of what I used were fairly clear. I will add to all that I've said for the benefit of others who choose to try doing it themselves....I have a LOT of experience with automotive painting and the end results that I achieved could not necessarilly have been possible without at least some of that knowledge. Producing a quality finish such as that on autos, bikes, etc is not for those who don't have a natural "knack" for it and/or have little knowledge about it.
  23. SilvrT
    I've NEVER used that (or anything else) on plug threads. I suppose it's not a bad idea but I've never seen a situation where is should have been used and I've changed 100's of plugs over the years. (just my $0.05)
  24. SilvrT
    LOL!... was that an "accidentally on purpose" thing?
  25. SilvrT
    I created an account but the link now says "The topic or post you requested does not exist"
×
×
  • Create New...