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SilvrT

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  1. SilvrT
    I got the video for xmas .... weather here hasn't been favourable enuf to bother licensing the scoot yet and now I got her all torn down again doing maintenance and a bit of re-clearcoating. For sure tho I will be trying those exercises once the scoot is back together...probably not until May 1st or so.
  2. SilvrT
    Don't come here! (west coast Canada) I park my scoot mid October and it sits until mid April. Well, there are a few days between those dates that I could ride but for the most part, it's either too cold (for me) or it's too wet. Then again, I'm a bit of a whimp when it comes to such things.... Gimme HOT! Gimme DRY! I wanna move to TexUs! ..errr I mean TexAs!
  3. SilvrT
    You should use "wrinkle" paint... would make for a very unique look...
  4. SilvrT
    looking at that scOOt, I'd say it has moo power than mine!
  5. SilvrT
    They went from 1200 to 1300 in 1986. The 2nd gen engine is basically the same.
  6. SilvrT
    You should be able to use the "old" wire loom again....
  7. SilvrT
    I think on this cover, the bottom screw is different from the others...has a brass or copper washer ... also, the oil leak might be from the wiring seal where they go into the stator cover.
  8. SilvrT
    Spray guns for $25 ... even $10 ... WOW ... cheapest I could find around here was $30. I was a bit turned off by the place that was selling them so went and bought one (basically the same gun) elsewhere for $42. Here's a link to the gun... http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ch_dh7800_more.html
  9. SilvrT
    It depends on how smooth the surface of the clear is. Going over it with 1200 or higher wet or dry will take down any minor ripples, bumps, or any dust particles that might have gotten into it. Use a rubber sanding block with the wet sandpaper wrapped around it. Look at any new car.... really look close at the paint...see it at different angles and lighting conditions... you will see it is not quite as smooth as one would think. Then look at a custom "show quality" paint job.... there's a big difference. The show quality job has been wet sanded and polished out. Use a good liquid polish... there are many brands... get one designed to use with a power polisher. If you've never used a power polisher before.... there's a bit of an "art" to using it. The main thing is not to apply too much pressure, not to allow it to stay in one spot (keep moveing it around) and be very cautious around edges. Check this link... http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-polishing.html
  10. SilvrT
    I can tell you from lots of experience with both spray cans and painting cars professionally... you can get a spray can paint job to look every bit as good as a professional paint job. It's a bit more difficult and involves more work but it can be done. Having said that, I wouldn't suggest you try and paint a whole car with spray cans and expect a professional quality job. Spray cans are better suited to smaller components, such as those on a motorcycle, in comparison to larger parts such as doors, hood, roof, etc on a car. I would not; however, use spray cans in favor of a proper spray gun / compressor unless I only had a couple small pieces to paint and did not have professional automotive paint readilly available simply because you oftentimes have to purchase the automotive paint, especially the clear coat, in larger quantities such as a pint of color and a gallon of reducer for the color or a gallon of clear and a quart of hardener. You can find automotive paint shops that fill pre-charged spray cans with professional auto paint mixed to the color chip of your choice. These generally require either clear coating or polishing afterwards. The products I used on my scoot produced a very good quality finish. I did power polish it out to get a "show quality" finish however, but it wasn't necessary to be a good looking finish. Since doing my scoot last year (with spray cans), I've gotten a few nicks here and there and I burned a corner on the trunk when I was power polishing it. I've recently purchased a good compressor and had to refinish the hood of the car due to a couple dents. I have lots of clear and reducer left over so I'm redoing the scoot again...but this time not with spray cans. Might even do another color change.
  11. SilvrT
    ride fast...by the time you get to the car wash, all the wood dust will be gone...ride slowly back and enjoy the ride!
  12. SilvrT
    You shouldn't have to wet sand the color coat before shooting with clear unless you've let it dry for a day or so. Even with that, you could get a "fine" scuff pad and lightly scuff it before clear coat. If you do wet sand the color coat, 1200 or higher wet or dry (do it wet with soapy water). Gonna be hard to get into those "nooks and crannys" tho...I use the scuff pad there. A good idea is to shoot a couple coats of clear, let that dry good, wet sand that and shoot a final clear coat.
  13. SilvrT
    it's a liquid product you put in the tires that helps balance and seal them. http://www.ride-on.com/
  14. SilvrT
    Internally huh? ..... nope... nosiree.... no way am I gonna do that!!!
  15. SilvrT
    I also carry a plug kit and use RideOn. I ran with a plug in the rear tire last summer for a while but before I did the trip to the prairies, I put a new tire on. At that time, the plug was leaking, even with the RideOn in the tire. That was the first time I ever plugged a tire on a M/C...my feeling is that it's a temporary fix and replacing the tire asap is the best thing to do.
  16. SilvrT
    I did mine with spray cans. I got professional auto paint from a body & paint shop supplier that also fills spray cans. I used base coat / clear coat (aka 2K) base paint and used a single stage (aka 1K) clear. It turned out pretty good for a spray can job IMHO (and I used to have an autobody/paint shop). Here's the link to the clear I used... http://www.u-pol.com/ Use the Clear #1 UV resistant First of all, it's not necessary to go as high as 1200 for the primer... 800 is lots. Secondly, make sure you use a primer that is compatible with the base color otherwise, it will orange peel on ya. Generally, a laquer based primer will work as long as you don't lay it on too heavy. Definately not an enamel based primer...no no! (unless of course you're using enamel top coats). Preferrably, use a primer surfacer first and then a primer sealer prior to the base color. Sand the primer surfacer with the 800 wet or dry sand paper, clean all surfaces with an oil & grease remover, use a tack rag to clean off any dust particles, and shoot the primer/sealer on. You don't sand that. Always wipe with a tack rag between coats starting with the wiping of the primer/sealer before the base color. When working with primer, give it lots of time to dry/cure or use a heat lamp before sanding it. This clear I used does a pretty good job but if you do want to polish it out (I did some of mine), yes, use a 1200 or even higher wet or dry (wet of course) sandpaper prior to polishing. User a power polisher and some good polish....it comes out really good...very glossy and nary a ripple....as good as a custom paint finish you'd see in a custom bike/car show. As for the actual spraying, you will find that anywhere from 6" to 10" is about the right distance. Any more than that and your paint will be "drying" by the time it hits the surface. Do some testing on cardboard or something. Make sure you hold the spray perpendicular to the surface as best as possible. Make sure you let the paint "set up" for 15 or more minutes between coats. If you're spraying a metallic color, as soon as you've shot your last color coat, hold the can just a bit further away and "fan spray" it. By that I mean, don't follow a "left to right" or "up and down" motion... just spray all over, going a bit faster than usual. This will even out the metallic so that you won't see those "paint passes" where the metallic tend to build in the centre of the spray. Another tip with spray cans...try and do the spraying horizontally with the floor. Spray cans tend to lose their optimum sprayability when pointed down or at a sharp angle to the floor, especially when they are getting low on paint or propellant. Shake the spray can lots and when you're waiting for the coats to "set up", pull the spray nozzle off and drop into a bit of lacquer thinner. This keeps the nozzle clear of any paint build up and keeps it working best. When you're done shooting the clear, you need to leave everything to dry/cure really well before doing any polishing. I'd recommend a month during warm weather when there's lots of sun. Finally, make sure when you do the painting that your area is warm and there isn't a lot of humidity (ie during or just after a rain storm) or that the floor of your shop isn't soaked with water. This clear product I used is very susceptible to it being too cold or too humid and it will turn "milky" if it is. Don't be afraid to screw up... that's how ya learn. Have fun...hope some of my "experiences" are helpful. And remember, we wanna see those before and after pics!
  17. SilvrT
    All I can say is.... I'm over 60... (make your own conclusion!)
  18. SilvrT
    Kit... I never missed your point....just got here late! LOL N-E-Wayz, I figgure Kit is bang on and frankly, $400 for 2 people for 5 nights plus food for a whopping 4 & 2/3 days... ya can't lose I figgure. Don't go if you're not comfortable with that.. me... I'd grab the bargain! [Edit] ... if'n ya wanna sneak away for some private time to your cabin for a night...or a couple hours... go fer it!
  19. SilvrT
    My '87 has a barnett clutch too...it was in it when I bought it. I had the same problems with exact same symptoms (easy when cold, etc). It's not quite as bad now but I rarely ever use neutral except when I shut it off and need to roll it or when I'm starting up. It's easy then coz I just apply a bit of pressure on the shifter and rock the bike a bit (without the engine running).
  20. SilvrT

    Golf game

    SilvrT replied to Sailor's topic in Watering Hole

    I'm not a golfer so.....................................
  21. SilvrT
    They have pills for that now.... (and how would I know about this you ask? ) ....
  22. SilvrT
    My method is far better than anyone's and works every time .... absolutely effortless.... Get someone else to do it....
  23. SilvrT
    Seems I recall anytime I've installled "driving lamps" aka "passing lamps" onto any vehicle (M/C or cage), the instructions said to connect them to the high beam circuit. This is so they'd only come on when high beam was on. Makes sense to me coz that's generally when you want the extra lighting and you don't want it when you dim the lights coz you dim them so ya don't blind the oncoming driver. Personally, I've always wired them on their own circuit so I can flip them on whenever I want no matter if I got high beam or low beam going. As for the terminology "passing lamps", .... makes no sense whatsoever coz ya don't use them for the purpose of passing and then not once you've passed. I use them to provide additional light while driving at night when no one is in front of me (either coming or going). I put a set on almost every vehicle I've owned (M/C & cage) for years coz for me, the vehicles stock lighting (especially M/C's) just don't provide enuf for me. So, now that I know "passing lamps" and "driving lamps" are essentially the same.... I am so much wiser now!... I'll continue to call mine "driving lamps"... Interestingly enuf, that's also what they're called on the packaging.
  24. SilvrT
    I've never really known what exactly is the purpose of "passing lights". Sounds kinda dumb maybe but hey, I got a high beam, I got high power driving lights, I got fog lights .... just exactly what are "passing lights" and when should you use them, when shouldn't you and what's the difference between them and "extra" driving lights and/or using the high beam? :think:
  25. SilvrT
    well, I was going to make a comment here but didn't want to step over the "PG" rating....
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