Jump to content

SilvrT

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10,878

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    THANKS M8T .... I'm gonna go with your advice and I'll let ya know what happens.
  2. SilvrT
    THANKS M8T .... I'm gonna go with your advice and I'll let ya know what happens.
  3. SilvrT
    What about a nylon gasket similar to one used on an oil drain plug? If one fits snug to the threads but is a tad too big for the raised shoulder, then it would be easy to trim it....?? Still concerned tho about just how tight one can crank these things down without concern of stripping the threads in the head. I'm guessing that part of the head is aluminum so my thinking is the aluminum threads would strip rather easy before the threads on the brass fitting...??? yes/no? I'd be totally devastated if I stripped those threads in the head ...!!!
  4. SilvrT
    What about a nylon gasket similar to one used on an oil drain plug? If one fits snug to the threads but is a tad too big for the raised shoulder, then it would be easy to trim it....?? Still concerned tho about just how tight one can crank these things down without concern of stripping the threads in the head. I'm guessing that part of the head is aluminum so my thinking is the aluminum threads would strip rather easy before the threads on the brass fitting...??? yes/no? I'd be totally devastated if I stripped those threads in the head ...!!!
  5. SilvrT
    I used this part from Freebird's writeup on installing the gauges... "you will need to purchase a brass ½” tube to ½” female pipe adaptor (I got mine at Lowes, Watts part number A-218)" I notice that the edge that mates up with the gasket is slightly beveled and the washer off the non-fouler is not a tight fit and I think that is why this particular washer has a tendency to "distort" as it's being compressed. What kind of O-ring did you use? I'm wondering if there's an adapter similar to the A-218 that has a flat mating surface? I will admit tho that the coolant "weeping" is extremely minimal. I put on about 200 km's on Sunday after re-installing the washer and re-tightening it and the green coolant was just slightly visible around the lower edge of the fitting where it meets the gasket and the head and it wasn't over-filling the edge to the point that it would spill over (which it was doing the first time around).
  6. SilvrT
    I used this part from Freebird's writeup on installing the gauges... "you will need to purchase a brass ½” tube to ½” female pipe adaptor (I got mine at Lowes, Watts part number A-218)" I notice that the edge that mates up with the gasket is slightly beveled and the washer off the non-fouler is not a tight fit and I think that is why this particular washer has a tendency to "distort" as it's being compressed. What kind of O-ring did you use? I'm wondering if there's an adapter similar to the A-218 that has a flat mating surface? I will admit tho that the coolant "weeping" is extremely minimal. I put on about 200 km's on Sunday after re-installing the washer and re-tightening it and the green coolant was just slightly visible around the lower edge of the fitting where it meets the gasket and the head and it wasn't over-filling the edge to the point that it would spill over (which it was doing the first time around).
  7. SilvrT
    I've installed the mechanical water temp as per instructions but am still getting a small "weeping" leak where the modified fitting (using the spark plug fouler to re-form the threads trick) screws into the head. It seems the gasket from the fouler isn't sealing completely. I've put pipe thread sealer on the threads and tightened it down pretty good but maybe not enough...but, I'm afraid to strip the threads on the head. Just how tight can I go with this thing? I'm on the second washer...when I pulled it out the first time (to fix the leak), it seemed the washer was distorted and obvioulsy not seating properly. Maybe that's the same issue with the second washer..?? Maybe a different washer would work better? Any thoughts / suggestions guys?
  8. SilvrT
    I've installed the mechanical water temp as per instructions but am still getting a small "weeping" leak where the modified fitting (using the spark plug fouler to re-form the threads trick) screws into the head. It seems the gasket from the fouler isn't sealing completely. I've put pipe thread sealer on the threads and tightened it down pretty good but maybe not enough...but, I'm afraid to strip the threads on the head. Just how tight can I go with this thing? I'm on the second washer...when I pulled it out the first time (to fix the leak), it seemed the washer was distorted and obvioulsy not seating properly. Maybe that's the same issue with the second washer..?? Maybe a different washer would work better? Any thoughts / suggestions guys?
  9. SilvrT
    "boating" ... "floating" .... good choice of words! You planned that...right?
  10. SilvrT
    Years ago I worked in a heavy truck mfg plant. I recall watching one of the guys on the line soldering wires together for something. Basically he had a "hot pot" of molten solder and he'd just dip the wire into it. Of course, he'd twist them together and dip them into some flux first. Soldering them will ensure a strong and complete join, not to mention make it harder for corrosion to get inbetween the "crimped" wires.
  11. SilvrT
    Years ago I worked in a heavy truck mfg plant. I recall watching one of the guys on the line soldering wires together for something. Basically he had a "hot pot" of molten solder and he'd just dip the wire into it. Of course, he'd twist them together and dip them into some flux first. Soldering them will ensure a strong and complete join, not to mention make it harder for corrosion to get inbetween the "crimped" wires.
  12. SilvrT
    Wife & I both love our RSMV. I like some of the colors as well but the "blackie" is "THE ONE". Only problem is.... it takes twice as much work to keep it clean and dang, every little scratch or swirl mark shows up so easilly.
  13. SilvrT
    heh... I did the same mod as you...and then somebody started putting gauges there... now I got gauges! LOL
  14. SilvrT
    Check these links out... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=507 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28061&highlight=VTwin+31-9920 Maybe you should get the VTwin 31-9920 chrome clamps ... I went to the Harley shop but they don't sell that product...had to go to a custom chopper accessories shop to get them.
  15. SilvrT
    Bob Cummings had one of those (flying car) in the late 50's http://hubpages.com/hub/Is_There_a_Flying_Car_In_Your_Future
  16. SilvrT
    Great... my memory is working then!! LOL
  17. SilvrT
    Always willing to assist (sometimes I even know what I'm talking about LOL) Not sure your plans for attaching/affixing the gauge cluster faceplate but I used 2 of the little screws that came with the kit and ran them thru 2 holes I drilled and into the plastic part of the dash (if U look at my earlier post with the pics). I drilled the holes into the faceplate just a tad bigger than the screws and then used a smaller bit to put a couple "pilot" holes into the plastic. ... seems to be tight enuf but then again, I haven't ridden anywhere yet. Probably not the most solid method but I have plans to use small metal screw clips similar to those inside the fairing where the screws go into later on. Should also mention that I cut off the top mounting flange on the faceplate using a cutting wheel on my high-speed grinder. I held the plate steady in a wood vise with the lip resting on the edge of the wood and cut thru the metal. Then I filed the edge smooth.
  18. SilvrT
    Always willing to assist (sometimes I even know what I'm talking about LOL) Not sure your plans for attaching/affixing the gauge cluster faceplate but I used 2 of the little screws that came with the kit and ran them thru 2 holes I drilled and into the plastic part of the dash (if U look at my earlier post with the pics). I drilled the holes into the faceplate just a tad bigger than the screws and then used a smaller bit to put a couple "pilot" holes into the plastic. ... seems to be tight enuf but then again, I haven't ridden anywhere yet. Probably not the most solid method but I have plans to use small metal screw clips similar to those inside the fairing where the screws go into later on. Should also mention that I cut off the top mounting flange on the faceplate using a cutting wheel on my high-speed grinder. I held the plate steady in a wood vise with the lip resting on the edge of the wood and cut thru the metal. Then I filed the edge smooth.
  19. SilvrT
    good point.. thanks!
  20. SilvrT
    Un-bolt the Amplifier and slide it off to the side (if you're looking towards the bike, it slides out the left). You might have to disconnect the big plugs and some of the other wiring connected to it ... not to worry, they're color coded. There are 4 bolts (2 on each side) of the cassette. They screw into the sides of the cassette thru rubber shock bushings. I believe they're 10mm. Get in there with an extension and take 'em out. On the right there's an electrical "box" (so to speak) that's a bit in the way ... just unhook it and move it to the side. You will have to undo the 2 top screws that hold the headlight on (EDIT...and move the headlight out of the way) so there's room to slide the cassette out. Undo the two little screws at the bottom front of the cassette. You will have to wiggle and jiggle a bit to get the cassette door to clear as you're pulling the cassette backwards and out. (EDIT... no YOU don't wiggle and jiggle... you do that TO the cassette! ) hope this helps.
  21. SilvrT
    Un-bolt the Amplifier and slide it off to the side (if you're looking towards the bike, it slides out the left). You might have to disconnect the big plugs and some of the other wiring connected to it ... not to worry, they're color coded. There are 4 bolts (2 on each side) of the cassette. They screw into the sides of the cassette thru rubber shock bushings. I believe they're 10mm. Get in there with an extension and take 'em out. On the right there's an electrical "box" (so to speak) that's a bit in the way ... just unhook it and move it to the side. You will have to undo the 2 top screws that hold the headlight on (EDIT...and move the headlight out of the way) so there's room to slide the cassette out. Undo the two little screws at the bottom front of the cassette. You will have to wiggle and jiggle a bit to get the cassette door to clear as you're pulling the cassette backwards and out. (EDIT... no YOU don't wiggle and jiggle... you do that TO the cassette! ) hope this helps.
  22. SilvrT
    If I recall correctly, there is only one spring... and I have the empty cassette box complete with the door and spring intact .... I'm at work so will check tonight when I get home re: one or two springs but I'm pretty sure it's just one.
  23. SilvrT
    check these ... I may be wrong about the E1 code but E4 is referred to in the following... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29543&highlight=class+solder http://www.streettech.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=68
  24. SilvrT
    The E1 message generally means that the soldered connections on the controller need to be re-soldered. There's a writeup about this somewhere..I believe it's in the first Gen tech section. I'll look for it and post.
  25. SilvrT

    Sirius

    SilvrT replied to dray's topic in Watering Hole

    Here's the Sirius one I was thinking of getting... http://shop.sirius.com/edealinv/servlet/ExecMacro?nurl=control/StoreItem.vm&ctl_nbr=2640&siId=2443221&catParentID=7872&scId=7872&oldParentID=7872
×
×
  • Create New...