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SilvrT

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Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    When I was a child (seems like only yesterday) my uncle would always play these "magic" tricks on me.... like pulling a nickel out of my ear... or making a lightbulb go on as he held it in his hand... Could it be similar to that "magic lightbulb trick"??? hmmmmmmmm???? Inside my trunk I have a small light. Got it at the hardware store... there is no switch (at least of the "normal" type). But, there are 2 little prongs on one end of the light... you turn it on and off by touching the ends of the prongs with your finger.
  2. SilvrT
    hwy 3 is the southern trans canada... you hook up to it at the end of either hwy 22 or hwy 2 BTW, do not take 40 all the way down to hwy 3... go over to longview and take 22. You can take 40 but a lot of it is (or was) a dirt road. You'll see on the map where 40 branches off and goes south and 541 goes over to Longview.
  3. SilvrT
    Deb & Gary ... I've ridden those routes (#93, #95, #1, #40, #22, #3) many, many times over the past 35 years ... your posting about this trip is sure bringing back memories ... you will enjoy yourselves and these routes ... guaranteed!
  4. SilvrT
    You might see a bear on hwy 40 and maybe even on 22 ... in fact, on any of those routes but, on hwy 22, you're more likely to come across some rancher herding his cattle down the hwy LOL
  5. SilvrT
    Take 22 all the way down to hwy 3 ... it's a beautiful route and keeps you off the 4 lane freeway of hwy #2 (#2 is also quite windy -- lots of cross-winds). Make sure you tank up at Longview. Route 40 thru Kananaskis is an awesome ride ... be on the lookout for wildlife and be prepared for possible cold temps at the summit. Hwy 93 is great... lots of awesome scenery and you're never too far from civilization ... make sure you stop over at Radium Hot springs. Instead of going to Golden, you could branch off at Radium and hook up with #1 between Lake Louise and Banff. That is a beautiful national park route. Either direction...it's very good riding and scenery.
  6. SilvrT
    You could try Canmore to the East of Banff ... depending on the direction you're travelling, maybe Field BC might work for you... what is your route?
  7. SilvrT
    It will be a little busier in Banff for sure but Calgary will be where it's "NUTZ" ... I lived there for 8 years but yanno, as busy as it does get in Calgary, it really is a fun time when the stampede is on. As for getting to Banff, you can by-pass most, if not all of Calgary a variety of ways so pretty easy to stay clear of excessive people and traffic.
  8. SilvrT
    DITTO that! I don't know you or your husband but frankly, it sounds like he has some "issues"... and in particular ... a bit of a "controller". RIDE WHAT YOU LIKE... and live for you and nobody else.
  9. SilvrT
    You might want to look into a product called "Thermagasket" Check my thread at ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18744&highlight=dakota It's been over a year now since I installed that product and still no more head gasket leakage on my Dakota... nor do I have any cooling / cooling system issues.
  10. SilvrT
    eh? .. what bad? it's all good! Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak! What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!
  11. SilvrT
    eh? .. what bad? it's all good! Well, thanks to you and your suggestion to use a rubber O-ring, I'm happy to report that I no longer have a coolant leak! What a great thread this was.. extremely informant and helpful! What a great bunch of guys... thanks all of you!
  12. SilvrT
    Now Now boys... let's not get into a "my dad is stronger than your dad" fight... :rotf: :witch_brew:
  13. SilvrT
    Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)
  14. SilvrT
    Looking at the pic of yours (the electrical one), yes, mine is taller if I use the non-fouler also. I would then have the non-fouler, the modified adapter, the fitting from the kit and then the sending unit. Take away the non-fouler, and mine would be about the same height. (methinks)
  15. SilvrT
    I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.
  16. SilvrT
    I asked to save reading backwards to check my memory (I did recall you using electrical coz I looked closely at your fittings pics). I haven't checked yet but it appears that if I use the non-fouler, plus the adapter, plus the fittings for the sending unit, I won't have enuf room.
  17. SilvrT
    You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge? and hey... no apology neccessary!
  18. SilvrT
    You're using a mechanical or electrical gauge? and hey... no apology neccessary!
  19. SilvrT
    hmmmmmmmm... that's about what I did the first time... maybe a bit more... second time (with a new gasket) I cranked it (magilla gorilla style ... almost!) ... got less of a leak on second go-round. First time I used teflon tape...second time I used pipe thread sealer. I'm gonna pull it apart this evening and see what's up. (more later)
  20. SilvrT
    hmmmmmmmm... that's about what I did the first time... maybe a bit more... second time (with a new gasket) I cranked it (magilla gorilla style ... almost!) ... got less of a leak on second go-round. First time I used teflon tape...second time I used pipe thread sealer. I'm gonna pull it apart this evening and see what's up. (more later)
  21. SilvrT
    hey Dan ... I've felt what you're feeling... more than once. Look at it this way... it's a stepping stone to something better. all the best to ya!
  22. SilvrT
    Since I am using the mechanical gauge, I don't use the non-fouler for anything other than the re-threading of the brass adapter (Watts # A-218). Maybe I should be using the non-fouler also??? not according to Goose's instructions (or did I read it wrong?).... I think the whole assembly would be too high if I did.
  23. SilvrT
    Since I am using the mechanical gauge, I don't use the non-fouler for anything other than the re-threading of the brass adapter (Watts # A-218). Maybe I should be using the non-fouler also??? not according to Goose's instructions (or did I read it wrong?).... I think the whole assembly would be too high if I did.
  24. SilvrT
    Good idea Goose... now as for that crush washer...seems to me if it will work on a spark plug where the cylinder pressure can be upwards of 150 psi, it should be able to hold back 12-14psi coolant pressure... me thinks it just doesn't seat properly on the tapered (or maybe rounded is a better word) edge of the brass fitting... I believe the actual non-fouler has a flat flange, thus a better seal (similar to a spark plug). I also note that on that particular brass fitting that the area where the washer fits does not have any thread...maybe that has something to do with it as it seems to crush the washer outwards. (I should take a pic of what it looks like when I take it out) Well, I'm going to try the rubber O-ring and at the same time, I'll plaster some pipe thread sealer on the threads. I'll be doing some close inspection of those threads in the head first tho just to ensure they haven't been damaged.
  25. SilvrT
    Good idea Goose... now as for that crush washer...seems to me if it will work on a spark plug where the cylinder pressure can be upwards of 150 psi, it should be able to hold back 12-14psi coolant pressure... me thinks it just doesn't seat properly on the tapered (or maybe rounded is a better word) edge of the brass fitting... I believe the actual non-fouler has a flat flange, thus a better seal (similar to a spark plug). I also note that on that particular brass fitting that the area where the washer fits does not have any thread...maybe that has something to do with it as it seems to crush the washer outwards. (I should take a pic of what it looks like when I take it out) Well, I'm going to try the rubber O-ring and at the same time, I'll plaster some pipe thread sealer on the threads. I'll be doing some close inspection of those threads in the head first tho just to ensure they haven't been damaged.
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