SilvrT
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Everything posted by SilvrT
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That's not just Interesting, thats.... IMPRESSIVE!
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I would love to read that article; however, I am not a subscriber and after searching appx 10 news stands around here, I haven't yet to find anyone who sells the magazine.
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Unless a person is a subscriber, ya can't access that article (at least I haven't figgured out how to)
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Unfortunately, the full report is not available on-line (at least I can't find it). Someone puhleeze post that article
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well, it's just one of those many "high prices" one has to pay to live in such a beautiful province! BC and especially the West Coast has been that way for a long time.
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Reminds me of a joke... What's the difference between Beer nuts and Deer nuts? Beer nuts cost $1.69 ... Deer nuts are just under a buck....
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heh ... just be thankful you don't have government insurance (which is forced on ya with no competitors), especially the ICBC (Insurance Corp of BC) that we have here. I have a clean driving record and get the highest rate reduction available and I still pay in excess of $2000/yr for my insurance (one mil 3rd party, $500 deductible comprehensive, $1000 deductible collision) And that's just for the scoot! Having said that tho, EVERYONE should at the very least carry 3rd party liability insurance.
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When you say "on the bottom" are you referring to the inside or the outside? Seeing as it's "on the bottom", this is what I would probably do (coz ya can't see it anyway). I would grind out the hairline cracks appx 1/2 way thru the plastic with an appropriate attachment on a drill. Then I'd get some ABS plastic cement (generally they are 2-part epoxy hardener/resin and there's a few brands out there) and I'd fill the ground out cracks with the cement. You want to make sure you grind away the plastic beyond where the end of the hairline crack stops. This will reinforce it and hopefully prevent it from cracking any further. Hope this helps.
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Once you've applied blue loctite, they will be tough to unscrew by hand the first time but after that, the remaining "dried" loctite stays there and seems to provide some "friction" preventing them from self-loosening (at least that's what mine seem to be like). You could try it and see if it works for you.
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I mentioned this in another post but am putting it here also. I can't seem to find that magazine in stores here and would really like to see that article (you can't view it on-line). Would someone be able to scan it to a PDF and send to me (maybe unacceptable practise).
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I also got to sit on one a couple weeks ago. I did not find that it felt as heavy to lift off the sidestand as the RSV. The seat seems narrower and positioning in respect to handlebars was good. I like the dash. Didn't feel the windshield was wide enuf and there was a lot of reflection from all the chrome. Side bags are definately smaller than the RSV (I felt). I liked the side opening trunk. Plastics seemed very flimsy and neither of the side bags closed easily. Overall, I like the looks of them. I'd love to road test one. I ran across a guy a week or so ago who'd just bought one and was out for his first ride. He'd owned several Nomads before that and he had nothing but praise for the Voyager. I was stopped along side the highway when he and his wife rode by... it had a nice sound to it. He did comment that there seemed to be more engine heat than the Nomad he traded in but that's probably because of the fairing and lowers. This is the first year for them and I figgure by next summer there will be a lot more of them on the road... I think they will sell a lot better than the Victory Vision.
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I checked a couple book stores here and can't find that magazine. This may not be an acceptable practise but, if anyone cares to scan the article to a PDF .... I'd sure love to read it!
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Because it's a wet clutch, you can slip them for a long, long, looooonnnnggg time before any noticeable wear would occur. It's not the same as a dry clutch.
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There's a few other threads on this ... just wanted to add more info in case anyone is looking to get some paint to match their scoot here in Canuck Land CMAX, a division of UAP-NAPA apparently does this. Here in Vancouver there is a location at 8555 Cambie St. The beauty of this is, they can scan your paint and match it. This is good especially for older paint jobs which have faded some. Here's a link... http://www.uapinc.com/client/en/pieces-auto/CMAX.html I haven't personally gone there yet or tried this but just thought it would be good info to share. Came across this in a newspaper article. The article went on to say that they can also provide the product in a spray can good for small areas or touch-ups. ___________________________________________________________________ · Article rank · 23 Jul 2009 · 24 Hours Vancouver · DAVE REDINGER NEIGHBOURHOOD MECHANIC It’s easy to match your car’s finish I have often said in this column that today’s cars are complicated and not easily repaired when things start to go sideways. This change in technology has vastly reduced the range of repairs the individual owner can do successfully. One area the owner can still address with relative ease is the car’s finish. Even though vehicle paints have gone high tech, there are services available to help to colour match your car’s finish. We use C MAX, a division of NAPA. The staff at C MAX will scan your paint sample, mix the appropriate match and supply you with an easyto-use spray can. We usually send a painted part of the car for a match; however the scanning equipment is portable and as such can scan the car wherever it is. Advantages of scanning your car with this system are obvious. Paint changes colour as it ages. This system matches the actual colour your car is now. After years of weathering and fading the original formula would no longer match. For more information, call C MAX at 905-602-9083.
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Next Q is ... will a Vmax motor fit into a 2nd gen as easily?
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Checking the oil level
SilvrT replied to Seaking's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
99% of the time Nina rides with me and about once a week I get her to level the scoot while I check the oil. No need for any other method (at this time ) I've also put 2, 2x4 blocks under the side stand to check it. This brings the scoot to an almost perpendicular position and good enuf for a quick oil check. -
Just like in big business, it's generally some "pencil-pusher" that defines policy and has no real idea of the impact. It seems to me that a lot of the diseases such as mad cow, ecoli, and so on come from the "mega producers" ... so why isn't the government clamping down on them more??? (politics and payoffs)
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Maybe Brian just likes "honking his own horn" ...
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I'd guess you've never been up here .... after all, living in an igloo ... it don't get much gooder 'n that! :rasberry: *oink* *oink*
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the vid wasn't available but it appeared as though the pig rode on a trailer behind the scoot. Personally I have an issue with that, in that the animal is sitting there, breathing in all the carbon monoxide and whatever else from the bikes exhaust. I just don't see that as a good thing to be doing.
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Thanks for help with new gauges
SilvrT replied to a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Great job! ... they almost look as good as mine! I chose to route the aux input jack up the handlebar and I used 2 screws thru the front of the faceplate to secure my gauges. Securing them from the inside was a bit of a problem with mine due to the design/method the gauges were secured to the faceplace. It left me with nothing to connect any bracketry to. -
gaskets for collector
SilvrT replied to chocking's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
First time around it took me about 2 1/2 hrs but I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the pipes, etc and fussing. Don't recall how long it took the second time but I'd guess about 1 hr RE & RE There are only 2 bolts holding the collector onto the frame. Get under the bike if you can with a trouble light to locate them or use a mirror. As long as the front header pipes are out of the collector, mufflers are off, and clamps are loose for the rear header pipes-collector, and mounting bolts are out, a few taps with a hammer or a bit of prying with a bar and the collector should just drop right off. EDIT: just a quick note... the more beers you have, the longer this project will take .. LOL! -
ahhh... that was my third guess
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Regarding the friction zone, I found I learned where it was and became comfortable with it when inching up a hill behind slow or stop & go traffic or just pulling away from a dead stop up a hill without rolling backwards (as I generally hold the bike at a stop with the front brake soas to keep both feet on the ground).
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Interesting... I note that in the second pic, the rider is doing a sharp right turn but looking straight forward. What happened to the "look in the direction you want to go" rule? Could it be that the pic was snapped just as the rider was about to change direction or?