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SilvrT

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Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    Not exclusive to a Venture ... most all bikes, including Harley's, have this "stuck on pinstripe" which is also sealed and covered with a coat of clear. Here's a tidbit of info... if you scratch that stripe on a Harley, the only way to get it repaired is to send the entire piece back to Harley factory (according to what I've been told) ... and it ain't a CHEAP thing to do! I love pinstripes and plan to get mine done this winter and I am definately getting it done by hand by a "professional". I've used the "pinstripe" decals before and although I thought the ones I used looked good, they weren't UNIQUE, nor did they exactly follow the "flow" of the body lines, not to mention that it is hard to find a pinstripe decal that has the right colors you want. I'm not referring to those "straight-line" stripes, but actual, commercially made pinstripe designed decals. Hey Patrick46 .... your response to my post earned you my respect. If you lived closer, I'd be sure to have you do this job for me. BTW, what is a "RaT" ???
  2. SilvrT
    Don't know if anyone else has experienced this but, my Sirius XM radio "cig lighter" adapter would keep coming loose from the Aux "cig lighter" outlet ... would only take a few bumps in the road and out it would come. I wired it direct inside the fairing.
  3. SilvrT
    Apparently it does (work in a motorcycle) according to many on this site. What is unique about it is that it has no "friction modifiers" which, if included as an additive, will harm the wet clutch. All "motorcycle specific" oils do not contain friction modifiers... as I understand it at least. I note that your bike is a '99 ... just something to think about... I had an '87 for 3 years ... for all I know, it never had synthetic in it but I tried that and I immediately noticed clutch slippage in 5th gear when I cranked it hard. That may have been coincidental but I believe I've heard others say to not switch to synthetic in an older engine when it hasn't been using it.
  4. SilvrT
    Let me rephrase my original comment... Everyone is entitled to their opinion but... A good decal properly applied does NOT look cheap and they are NOT made for "kids cars". A "professionally" done pinstripping job DONE POORLY will look a whole lot CHEAPER. Sorry, mean no offense, but your statement was rather harsh and biased I thought. Having said that, I do agree that a good quality "professional" pinstiping job is by far the best route to go. And thanks for the tip about double charging...I'll certainly be on the lookout for that. I would think tho that under such a circumstance, a person would do some deals just for the exposure...I know I would... it would be like an advertising cost ... so ya don't make as much at the Bike Rally ... but look at all the business you could generate back at your shop. Course, if Bike Rally's were your only place of doing business, gouge, gouge, gouge would be the game for sure! Heck, that's what they do at sporting events...beer is 2-3 times the normal price.
  5. SilvrT
    Thank you Eck! (for that I could hug ya... but I won't)
  6. SilvrT
    I don't have that bottle anymore but I know for a fact that Canadian tire sells it coz I bought it there. The 4 litre bottle is White.
  7. SilvrT
    It would be interesting to see the score of a person talking on the cell phone while doing the Collision Traps test !
  8. SilvrT
    I went from Rotella T to Mobil 1 (which is what's in mine now) and it made no difference to the chirp. Rotella T was 15w40 and Mobil1 is 10w40
  9. SilvrT
    There is a thing called "flash-off time" ... it's usually around 5 - 15 minutes that you wait until applying the next coat. If you allow the coats to dry (ie maybe 3 or 4 hours or more), then another coat will not adhere properly so you have to "scuff up" the surface (sanding). I recommend applying all the color coats at once, allowing only enuf "flash-off time" between the coats. Let that dry thoroughly and then sand as I suggested before the clear coat. The sanding process before the clear will "scuff" the surface of the color coat so that the clear can bond to it. The reason I suggest that is because while you are applying the color coats, you are also "building up" the roughness of the surface. Letting the color coats dry and then wet sanding smooth will produce a better, smoother clear coat.
  10. SilvrT
    Currently I'm using cheapo Fram (which many, including myself don't care for) because I'm too lazy to seek out a better one LOL but come next oil change I will be looking for something better...not sure exactly what yet.
  11. SilvrT
    Although I'm not Owen, I have had a lot of experience with "rattle can paint". 800 wet or dry sandpaper (done with slightly soapy water) will probably suffice, Make sure you keep the sandpaper flushed with water lots and don't press too hard. When you think you've sanded enough, sand a bit more and then wipe it clean and let dry so you can tell where you need to sand more. Apply 2-3 color coats After the color coat has dried, sand it the same way using 1200 grit or higher before applying the clear.
  12. SilvrT
    considering where you live I'd suggest 10w40 Amsoil is a good choice
  13. SilvrT
    Welcome! ... you're gonna get a lot of variances to this one coz it's somewhat of a "personal choice". Shell Rotella T diesel 15w40 is one ... Amsoil synthetic is another ... the list goes on but frankly, I've tried at least 4 different types with varying weights (10w40, 15w40, 20w50, etc) and none really make much difference to the "chirp" IMHO.
  14. SilvrT
    cool! 19/20 on Road Signs 16/20 on Collision Traps (some of those are tricky...)
  15. SilvrT
    Interesting! ... I looked all over their website and could not see anything that looked like that. Must be a base model with some accessories bolted on.
  16. SilvrT
    just the other day I was standing outside my building where I work downtown Vancouver and 3 RSV's went by plus a wing and a V* ... obviously out of towners on a holiday. There are getting to be more and more of them around here it seems. Or maybe I'm just noticing them more now that I have an RSV....
  17. SilvrT
    all I can say is... if I had started this thread, NOBODY would have opened it!
  18. SilvrT
    New=never sold Non-current= not the current model ( I guess )
  19. SilvrT
    I notice they also have an '08 suzuki C109R .... anyone know anything about these bikes?? ... anyone ride one?? I looked at one at a dealer one day and my first thought was.... geeeez ... the handlebars sure seems flimsy (small diameter) for such a monster cruiser.
  20. SilvrT
    Somehow I missed reading this thread and am just getting into it now (albeit not that old). Seems a little more than heated engine exhaust is flyin around LOL! FACT #1: The AIS injects air into the hot exhaust gas when it exits the cylinder (yes/no?) FACT #2: A leak in the exhaust system prior to the muffler will "suck in" (aka induct) air into the hot exhaust. FACT #3: The result of FACT #2 WILL cause backfiring on deceleration. I know this to be a FACT because that is what happens when the exhaust collector on a 1st gen has holes in it and when you repair that, ... no more backfire. OPINION: FACT #1 and FACT #2 have similarities and therefore BOTH could cause FACT #3 (yes/no?) The difference between FACT #1 and FACT #2 is that in #1 the air is induced at the header pipe and therefore does not accumulate as much and also the "backfiring" occurs at that point whereas in FACT #2 the air is induced closer to the muffler, accumulates in the muffler, the "backfiring" occurs there, and is much more evident (louder). (just my "factual" $0.05 cents of "logical opinion")
  21. SilvrT
    nope
  22. SilvrT
    Any decals, large or small, will be much easier to work with if you use soapy water. You don't need a lot of soap...just a wee bit. If you get a bubble that you can't work out (and you will get those), use a very sharp, pointed razor blade knife such as an Xacto and puncture the bubble and then work out any air that was trapped. Decals do not lend themselves well to compound curves so try to stay away from those.
  23. SilvrT
  24. SilvrT
    Personally I would think a novice should use the SLPR method and I'd guess I use that most times; however, I find the SLRP method more used when I am entering a curve that I cannot initially see all the way but when I can and I'm not yet into the corner, I have Slowed and Looked, then I will Roll (to speed up coz I know I can take it faster) and then Press to turn into the corner. I probably also use the SLRP (excluding the "S") when negotiating a corner that I am familiar with, assuming I am approaching that corner at a speed less than I know I can take it at. SLPR would be similar to driving a cage where you slow for the curve, start the turn, and then power thru and out of the turn. Did I make any sense out of that? LOL
  25. SilvrT
    Great pics!! ... curious about that Victory ... is that a stock model or did the guy customize it? Looks cool...wayyyyy nicer than the "Vision".
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