creole

Thanks, I assumed it was an emission type thing, based on location and all the tubing routing. The vacuum lines are in my opinion (just based on what I can see) part of the control system. Just can't decide where it gets the vacuum from- carbs, manifold, ect..?

Here is a pic of the hose end that can more easily be seen. This one goes up front to part #40 behind the radiator. The hose not seen in the picture does indeed go to part #10 from the link in the previous post. Thanks[ ATTACH]74111[/ATTACH]

Maybe I should go look again. I came up with the Air cut valves by the parts breakdown microfiche. Pictures would be hard to get because of the location of the hose ends without tearing down the bike. http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/500441cef8700209bc78e9e1/air-induction-system Part #'s 46 and 10 are listed as the Air cut valves, and 53 & 19 are what I believe are the two "vacuum" type hoses that terminate somewhere around the carbs. I am not sure what they are supposed to connect to, or what the air cut valves do.

Did some general maintenance stuff the other day. Noticed two vacuum type hoses meeting between the cylinder valley that didn't apparently go to anything, but had a plastic nipple in each, that looked to either be broken or snipped off of something. I had known about the one going down in front to the lower right fairing, but had just found the other going down under the bike in front of the rear wheel. As best I can figure, they go to the AIR Cut Valves, but I'm not sure what those are for, if they were intentionally disconnected by a PO or were broken over the course of the years and I have no Idea where they were supposed to be connected under the tank / carb area........ Anybody got any Ideas? I didn't really think anything's been wrong, don't know if I've even missed these things not working. Don't know if I should even care that they're not hooked up...... Creole

Went for a ride to Canton Lake this afternoon to look at the falling water level, since they've been sending all the water to Oklahoma City. Met 3 RSV's riding across the dam, thought surely one or all of them were on this forum......? Just curious:whistling: Creole

Looks kind of cold.......To each his own, but I prefer the 5th wheel with central heat and air, satellite tv, queen sized bed ect ect......LOL I know my definition of camping out has changed a bunch through the years. Dad and I used to tent camp out in the snow to Deer hunt. Just not into that any more. Now we drag the Camper to the farm......

Same here.... I carry the. 40 auto, but always shoot better and more accurately with the. 38. The. 40 is a better feel when concealing and less conspicuous, the. 38 is much more comfortable in the hand and very repeatable on the range. Kind of a trade off. You have to be comefortable and not awkward out in public or you stick out like a sore thumb. Took me a while to quit feeling like a I was doing something wrong when I first got my concealed carry. I used to wear it around town all the time just to get used to the idea, and the feel, and be comefortable in public. Now I don't even think about it. I know how I like to wear it And how to hide it when people get close like when people bump into each other in a crowd.

I agree. I personally don't know about the highpoint, but I do believe quality doesn't only come from the big name brands. I personally like Llama. It's a Spanish made gun and very well built and reliable yet was affordable as a new gun. However, they are no longer in business. The one I'm familiar with was built on the the 1911 colt design and in. 40 caliber with some interchangeable with colt. Very reliable, lots of rounds fired through it and no problems for years. I wouldn't hesitate to to pick one up if I came across one.

I guess it depends on how familiar you are with handguns. Revolvers are more reliable, yet semi-automatics are easier to carry because their generally slimmer, yet with more moving parts can be less reliable unless you pay attention to them. But to answer your question, my two favorites are .38 special and .40 Smith and Wesson. Both are great stoppers without being hard to hang onto. Another popular one is 9mm which is probably cheaper to shoot and practice with because of their popularity. Oh and as for cheap....there aren't any right now, just remember you kind of get what you pay for .... yes there are some affordable new handguns, but again, reliability comes into play with a cheap new gun. Not saying they aren't going to be there if you need it, but my personal opinion is to find a good used quality name gun rather than a cheaply built new one. Creole.

While doing the tape deck to storage mod, I learned there's a "push to click" type latch on each side of the tape deck door. Mine always seemed to stick on the right side. The left would click but the door needed some thumping, pulling, coercing on the right side to open. Until I took it out, I never new there's actually a latch on each side of the door. I used some graphite powder in the locking mechanism and now it works flawlessly. I guess the short story is, surely both latches aren't broken, even if you only have one, the door should click shut and stay shut. Maybe you can get lucky and just clean it up to get it to work. Creole

Phoneman, By the beginning of your post, I would have believed you were from Oklahoma.....that is until you mentioned snow... we've not seen much of that in the last couple of years. But the same is true here, great riding day one day then cold the next. But I guess, in retrospect, we do get to ride in the winter from time to time!

I think what is really happening is something in the windows OS called "sticky keys" Seems to me there is a setting that allows multiple keystrokes to perform a function like "page back". I'd have to look into it, but it seems like I've seen something on that before.

Just my China is a notorious imitation producing country, including patents and royalties. A previous company I worked for bought a Chinese manufacturing plant to duplicate some of our parts mfgd in the US at the plant where I was a design engineer. Their craftsmanship was very poor and they tried to take shortcuts on material, tooling and manufacturing. Mostly we got back High dollar junk we couldn't sell. I left the company before it all got straightened out if it ever did. Our son bought a china manufactured dirt bike a couple of years ago, I thought it would be ok because it was cheap and at that time only 2 years old. It also was a copy of a model made by Honda. It was a piece of crap, ran ok, but again the material they used for bolts and structure was substandard and weak, however Honda parts would fit as replacements. He out grew it before we felt like it was really a waste of money and now it just sits in my shop. If in fact they are copying the RSV or are consigned to produce it...........my thoughts are to shy away from them completely at least until they are proven by someone else, unless you have Creole

yuuuuuuuup:thumbsup2:

MY 99 does the same thing. Some times need the choke for quick start on a cool morning, but don't want to sit with it while it warms up. As soon as you let go of the choke it dies. I have began to start it with the choke and while I'm holding the choke out, I reach over to the other side and crank the Idle screw in a turn or so, let the choke off and it will stay running. As it warms up the idle speed is high and begins to rev a bit, so I back the idle screw out till it sounds normal. Sounds like a bit to go through, but easier than trying to get the choke to stay put. If yours is like mine, I could get the choke to stay out until I walked away, then it would die. Creole

Ok a few things. A search for Thermistor took me to some posts, one of which a fella by the name of Goose said this: "Next, check the resistance between the Green/Red wire and black wire - it should read around 1.2 Kohms. If there is no continuity, then the thermistor is bad. Goose " That being said mine is most likely the problem showing 44K ohm and the 9 volt issue is most likely that messing with it and the bike sitting a while, barely had enough voltage to crank over. Had to put a charger on it to crank it over. Guess a sending unit is in the cards for me. Thanks for the help

9 volts going to the fuel sensor. I'm not sure what the thermistor values should be, but my understanding of them is they change resistance values with temperature. I pulled the sending unit out of the tank and used a hair drier to warm it up while I watched an ohm meter. The cold value was 44K ohms (if I remember correctly) and after warming 10K. Now I understand it still could be of a value too high to make the system work. It seems to me that when the fuel level drops below the thermistor in the tank it should warm slightly just by being out of the fuel. It didn't seem that sensitive to me which could be the problem. I first tried to warm it enough just by holding it in my hand. I did get the error code a few weeks back for the first time. This light has not worked since I've had the bike. We are planning a trip in June and I thought it would be nice to have, although I've not really needed it thus far.

got it guys....thanks guys! However, not the problem........Trying to figure out why the low fuel light won't work. Thermistor seems fine, bulb is ok, correct wattage and everything. However, the book says 12v for the thermistor circuit and I've only got 9. Can't find a bad connection, or why there wouldn't be 12?

thanks, I'll try to get my sausage fingers in there..LOL

the backs (with the wires protruding) are rubber plugs. Do those come out of the back of the indicator housing without removing the dash?

How do you remove the dash bulbs? I want to check the low fuel bulb and have the fairing split, but cant decide if the bulbs come out the back or the dash has to be removed. Any help? Thanks, Creole

Wade....That may work:thumbsup2: Thanks to all for their input. I have thoroughly enjoyed the responses and reading the name choices of everyone's rides. This is truely a great group to be a part of!

LOL might be a little too obvious......Oh, are you referring to me or the bike as the "whining" part? Hmmmmmmm?

Wade 2000 No I'm not from the south, not Louisiana south anyway. Northwest Oklahoma all my life. This name thing runs deeper than just the bike. For years my user names for anything has always been "terry@whateverblah.blah. For this forum I was trying to be more creative even then. Any way back to your question. I make homemade wine and have for a few years now. Some has turned out pretty good, some not good at all and most stronger than my wife thinks it should be. So the name comes from that David Lee Murphy Song "Dust on the Bottle" that sings of a character "Creole Williams" who makes home made wine. Oh and as for that old girlfriend name thing, that could actually work as three of them had the same name as my wife's first name. On second thought, not a good Idea....nobody knows her by her first name. LOL I know it sounds kind of like a small gene pool from back in the sticks kind of thing, but really it wasn't intentional at all, just fate I suppose. Grew up in a really small town, so dated girls in the neighboring towns. Not sure just how that works.....LOL

I kind of like the "twoface spin on phase two". Only problem is a riding buddy calls his Harley toothless so it might get confusing, him being Harley and all Lol