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SaltyDawg

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Everything posted by SaltyDawg

  1. SaltyDawg
    Got the GXM-30 for my Zumo and both are water proof. It's great to listen to the same station no matter where I go.
  2. SaltyDawg
    Do a search. There is someone who will do the work for you at a cost. Not sure what what it costs. I think Freebird had this done as well as several others. It's supposed to give you shorter gears and get the bikes rpm's in the right powerband at 70MPH if I am not mistaken. It's better for towing bikes and mountain riding.
  3. SaltyDawg
    Yeah if you want a tire that throws chunks down the Highway.
  4. SaltyDawg
    I know you already ordered tires and I'm not trying to change your mind just giving some information on the other choice for future reference. I too commute to work daily 100 miles round trip, year round. I have put 59,000 miles on my bike since buying it 2 1/2 years ago. It had 40,000 on it when I bought it. I am on my 4th rear tire and 3rd front which were put on a couple months ago. I average 18,000 on my Michelin rear tire and 27,000 on my front tire and I weigh more than both of you two combined. For me the Avon Venom didn't have the profile I liked and it was harder to lean the bike into the turns. As far as the noise goes, it has been my experience that if you keep the proper air in them they don't get noisy until they start to wear out or get low on air pressure. The Commanders have been the only brand of tire that I have used that hold air pressure the longest. I check my tires once a week and I only have to put air in them every 4 to 6 weeks. But as stated in an earlier post, tires are a matter of personal choice. I may try the Elite III's in the future since they are just about the only tires I haven't tried on an RSV yet. BTW I have tried on my previous RSV, Bridgestones, Dunlop, Continental, Avon, and Metzlers. None lasted more than 8,000 miles on the rear. My first set of Commanders still had half the tread on them after 10,000 when I sold the bike. My current RSV had Avon Venoms with 4,000 miles on them when I bought it. After a week of riding (about 700 miles) I ordered a new set of Commanders. I hated the feel of the tire.
  5. SaltyDawg
    https://www.yocracing.com/Accessory_store/store/yoc_viewItem.asp?idProduct=27619
  6. SaltyDawg
    So my CC started acting up on me. It wouldn't stay engaged when I set it. Figuring it was one of the Micro-switches I started trouble shooting the problem. What I found was that the clutch lever wasn't returning to the completely out position. So when I pushed the lever out and held it there the CC would engage. As soon as I stopped pushing out on it the darn thing would shut off. Figured the lever was loose. Well not exactly, the darn thing has to be able to move so tightening it was out of the question. Took it apart and found the bushing inside the lever that the pushrod goes into was worn out, and I do mean OUT. I tried to rig it and that didn't work so I ended up ordering a new bushing and paying more to get it shipped to me than it cost. Put the new bushing in and CC works great now. I posted this for two reasons, the first being that someone else may have the same problem or experience the same thing in the future. And B as this was going bad I was noticing some slipping in the clutch under hard acceleration. I always suspected it was something to do with the lever and it was. The bottom of the bushing was angled from wear. When the bushing wore through it also wallered out the hole in the bushing which allowed the bushing to drop and bind where the bushing goes into the lever mount. This in turn was not allowing the clutch to come completely out (without pushing the lever out) and was staying engaged ever so slightly. Whenever I would push the lever all the way out and get on it hard the clutch never slipped, but after shifting into a gear and just releasing the clutch normally I would get a slip about 25% of the time. Sooo with that being said, some folks may have a simple $4.00 problem that could be causing their clutch to slip. Notice the hole completely through the old bushing. http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/93116452.jpg This is what the backside looked like. Notice no hole in the new bushing :-0 http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/b7af276d.jpg Notice the perfectly round shape of the old bushing. http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/6c6142e9.jpg
  7. SaltyDawg
    Instead of wasting money try killing the engine and then restarting. The magnetic field generated by the starter will usually trigger the light. If that doesn't work, you can drop the kick stand on or close to one of the buried lines and that will sometimes trigger the light too.
  8. SaltyDawg
    50K? Guess I'm on borrowed time. I have 99K on mine and they are fine. Of course now that I say that the darn things will crap out on me. LOL
  9. SaltyDawg
    OUTSTANDING!!! Now if they will only put him in GP so they can take care of him the right way.
  10. SaltyDawg
    [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=511]Tightening the Steering Head - VentureRider.Org[/ame]
  11. SaltyDawg
    I tighten mine about every 15,000 to 20,000 miles. Well actually every time I change a rear tire, which falls into that mileage. The first time I did it on my first RSV was at 15,000 miles and it was almost a complete turn to stop the bounce, so 1/4 isn't bad. There really isn't a lot of, well for lack of a better term "Stress" on those bearings. I would do the bounce test again to check it. It's possible the problem is a cupped tire, or one that is out of balance. How many miles on the bike since they tightened it? Did you check to make sure they tightened the top nut?
  12. SaltyDawg
    There is another brand that has been around for several years that goes for less than 50 bucks.
  13. SaltyDawg
    My first question is. How many miles are on your bike? I have 98,000 on mine and my bearings are still fine. I don't really understand your statement about the techs who did the tightening feeling any flat spots. That doesn't make sense to me. If they did the quick tightening then they shouldn't have felt anything except the nut tightening. If you still have the wobble I'm wondering if they actually tightened the steering head bearings. If they did then there is more than likely something else wrong.
  14. SaltyDawg
    Same thing happened to me after a serious downpour. The problem is where the antenna goes into the cradle. There is either water in there or the connection is not making good contact. I took the antenna connector out and blew the water out of the cradle with a can of air. Filled with dialectic grease and after blowing the air out of the connector too put it back together. Everything worked fine for about 3 months and it started happening again. This time it wasn't water but the connector wasn't making making good contact. I ended up putting a small piece of foam behind the elbow of the connector between the cradle and the connector. This for some reason allowed for a good connection once the GPS was put back in. Hope this helps.
  15. SaltyDawg
    It matters because he was jumped on for the word "gaskets" also.
  16. SaltyDawg
    I'm pretty confident he was talking about the oil seals not gaskets. Boy sometimes it isn't even worth the effort to post.
  17. SaltyDawg

    SwampDaWamp

    SaltyDawg replied to SaltyDawg's topic in Videos

    Here is Swampdawamps website. They have two CD's out not with another supposed to be released sometime next month. http://www.swampdawamp.info/welcome.htm Just went to their site and you can actually download both of their CD's via CD Baby or you can order the CD's. I'm just going to download them.
  18. SaltyDawg

    SwampDaWamp

    SaltyDawg replied to SaltyDawg's topic in Videos

    I like their sound. Not too hard but a good rocking beat.
  19. SaltyDawg

    SwampDaWamp

    SaltyDawg replied to SaltyDawg's topic in Videos

    Some of you guys need to get out more often!!
  20. SaltyDawg
    While a bearing puller is called for in the book, in trying to remove the front wheel bearings NO bearing puller I could find would work because the spacer that is between the bearings is the same size as the axle and therefore there is no lip for the bearing puller to grip onto. I used a screwdriver and pushed the spacer to one side then using the drift punch hit that side, then move the pipe to the other side and do the same thing. Go back and forth repeating the procedure until the bearing comes out. Once you have the one bearing out I think a bearing puller would work for the other one since the spacer is no longer there. Remember if you are replacing the bearings then there is no need to worry about damaging the bearing. Come to think of it I don't think the screwdriver worked and I ended up using a 3/8 socket extension and put the side that goes on the ratchet on the bearing and hit the other with a mallet. I know the "BOOK" says to use a bearing puller but I couldn't get one to grip the bearing. I'm sure there are others who can and have, but with what I had, and I rented a complete kit from Autozone I couldn't get it done.
  21. SaltyDawg
    Not to install but to remove the old one's. I used a large socket to install the bearings.
  22. SaltyDawg
    I can say that the bearings I took out were in fact sealed bearings. Same with the ones I put back in. Whether or not they were factory bearings could be in question since I didn't buy the bike new. I will say that the ones I got from a YAMAHA dealer with the part number for the Royal Star Venture were wrong. They were too small and just dropped right into the hub. In fact not only were they the wrong diameter they were not as wide as the ones I took out. I even went to a parts place online that has the RSV parts diagrams and cross checked the numbers.
  23. SaltyDawg

    SwampDaWamp

    SaltyDawg posted a topic in Videos

    I'm not usually one to push band onto anyone but, KromeRose and I went to the Freedom Fest Bike Rally in Fayetteville NC Saturday the 4th. Originally we went to see Rebel Son a NC edgy Southern Rock (with the emphasis on Edgy) band. We also saw Confederate Railroad, but the first band that opened up impressed us the most. They were called Swampdawamp. What a name. I got to say though they were a great Southern Blues Rock band. They had great stage presence and really put on a heck of a show. We are going to see them again in Kinston NC on the 17th then on to Raliegh the next weekend to see Kid Rock, Lynyrd Skynyrd, and Black Stone Cherry. Check them out, they could be the next best thing in Southern Rock. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dmyMQiNsC0]YouTube - "Dance"[/ame]
  24. SaltyDawg
    Mine had a nasty squall emitting from them on left hand corners. First found out while riding in the mountains in Asheville. Scared the crap out of me.
  25. SaltyDawg
    Call me special and send the short buss cause I got 59,000 in 30 months here in North Carolina. I ended up changing the front bearings out at about 75,000. What a pain in the backside that was. First thing I can say is MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE RIGHT bearings. I got some from a Yamaha shop, they were the right ones from in the book, but when I got the bike apart I found that they were in fact not the right ones. I took the bearings out and to a parts store and had them order me a set, actually 2 sets since they were nowhere to be found around here. We called to every place in Eastern North Carolina and couldn't find 2 bearings. Make sure you have a brass drift punch handy if not go to sears and get one. It took me FOREVER using a screwdriver. Unfortunately our local Sears here in Mayberry didn't have a drift punch set. Take both rotors off also. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946515000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Punches%2C+Chisels+%26+Pry+Bars&keyword=brass+punch
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