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SaltyDawg

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Everything posted by SaltyDawg

  1. I just installed one yesterday and followed these directions and it worked fine. A Pink horn wire to post 85 B Brown Horn Wire to post 86 C Post 30 to + side of horn D 20 amp fused from batt to post 87 E Ground - side of horn to engine ground. Just like in the first post of this thread.
  2. Today was maintenance day for my RSV. Gonna get her ready for Myrtle Beach next weekend. Ok so I received my Chrome Stebel air horn Thursday and installed it today; looks and sounds awesome. Thanks Carbonone for the great SS bracket. While I was at it I did a few other things and also changed the headlight to a Sylvania SilverStar H4ST. So the horn scares the crap out of just about anybody around that's great, but I wanted to check out the headlight so I took her out to a nice dark road that happens to go through a swamp to adjust the low beam so I could see but it wasn't too bothersome to oncoming drivers. You can already see where this is going right! Wrong I didn't see anything on that road and I traveled up and down it 4 times. Nice and dark, passed a few cars no one flashed me so I guess I got the alignment right. Anyway on my way back I was going down a road I used to live on and knew pretty well, still out in the sticks. Coming off a corner in a 45 zone that immediately changes into a 55 off the corner; well I was rolling into the throttle marveling at how bright and clear the light was looked down and was passing through 60 looked up and caught sight of two deer running towards the road left to right on a collision course with me. Rolled off the throttle hitting the brakes and "Blasted" the Stebel at them. What happened next was almost comical. Both deer slammed on the brakes and started skidding on the asphalt looking like "Bambi" on ice the first time. Both trying their darnedest to change direction and high tail it the other way. I still had to swerve to avoid one but we both cleared each other. WoW I've got to believe that without that light I wouldn't have seen them and without the Stebel Horn I don't think they would have slowed down. It could have been a really bad situation. I guess turning back around at the auto parts store today and getting that bulb was a good thing. Wayne
  3. Very Very nice. Gave me chills. Awesome job. Wayne
  4. Do you know if anybody has contacted the local Patriot Guard? That would be a good thing. Wayne
  5. So sorry for your loss, he is truly an unsung hero. Medics get no recognition yet they are the most important member of the team and you ask any Marine rifle squad and they will tell you the corpsman is the person they are closest to. Medics are amazing and I hear stories all the time of the heroic things they do to treat the wounded. He is with God now. My prayers to you and his family. Wayne
  6. I've got 30 years and over a hundred thousand miles of riding behind me and I still learn from almost every ride. I had so many close calls a couple years ago I sold my bike. I got the fever again and still folks seem to want to hit me. Always consider yourself invisible to other drivers and drive that way. I'm glad that you were able to avoid that wreck, the MSF course most definitely saved your hide there. Glad you are safe. Did you have to have your seat surgically removed from your backside?:rotf::rotf::rotf:
  7. Sherry, I am so sorry for your loss. No one can make you feel better with words alone. Time and only time will help heal the hurt and pain you are going through. From what I have read so far you have a wonderful family right here so don't hesitate to cry on our shoulders. Keeping you and your family in my prayers. Wayne
  8. Yeah I have heard of people getting those bead car seats from Wally world and cutting them down and retying them. From all accounts they are really nice on long rides. Me I'll stick with a sheepskin, they are cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Don't ask me how, it just works that way. I didn't believe it until I got one for myself. Check out this link: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=83439#post83439 BTW I have a Utipia backrest on my RSV and I really love it. Was a pain it the back side to install, but well worth the time and energy spent. It has a lot of adjustability built into it. I had the Diamond R on my first RSV and I ended up having to adjust it to it's limits and still had to bend the bar back to get the comfort level I wanted. With the Utopia I still have room to adjust and it's so simple to do even while sitting at a stop light.
  9. Do yourself a favor and check out any canoe outfitter places if you have them around. I was in one a couple weeks ago and they have the GEL seatpads shaped exactly to fit a large MC for around $30-40 bucks. In talking with the staff their they said they sell a lot to MC riders. They are basically the same exact thing as Butt Buffers but much cheaper. If you decide to go with a Gel Pad I highly suggest that you DON'T have it installed in the seat. I did that once and it was a "BIG" mistake. They absorb the heat and release it on your backside with a vengeance. LOL :225:
  10. I would have to disagree with the first part of this statement. If the splines were not greased properly and you wait for the tell tale click click click then your splines just might be rusted by that time. This happened with my first 99 and I almost didn't get the splines out. Then it is longer and more difficult to clean and sand the splines plus the holes in the hub. If I were going to go through the process of putting my RSV on a lift to change the links knowing the splines had NOT been done by me personally I would take the time to remove the tire and grease them. I don't trust any shop to do things I can't verify for myself visually. Removing the tire will also make changing the links a lot easier. Just my opinion though. Bottom line is the splines should be checked and greased "Every Time" you pull the rear wheel. There are good tech articles that explain removing the tire and greasing the splines. It's not hard or time consuming and anybody can do it providing your fit enough to lift the tire into place. The hardest part of the process is getting the tire back up and in place.
  11. Stock 99 seat on my first RSV was uncomfortable to me and I could not go more than 50 miles before it was becoming unbearable. I rode about 160 miles to Myrtle Beach, with one stop to stretch and get gas and was regretting it all day. While in Myrtle Beach I had a Carolina Butt Buffer installed in the seat which made the ride home that same day better but since I already had Monkey Butt it still was not a fun ride. After recovering from MB I was able to ride further without a lot of pain but it still wasn't perfect. I had to get a sheepskin from Alaska Leathers because the butt buffer would get really hot during the day and take forever to cool off so that in it's self was torture. My current 99 has the pillow seats on it and they are much better for me. I have gone on all day excursions without any hot spots. Usually putting over a hundred miles at a time without any pain. I haven't ridden a complete tank which would be close to 3 hours yet but I think it would be no problem. I prefer a softer seat while some prefer a harder one. My pillow seats offer me a soft ride and if for some reason my backside starts to hurt I just put the sheepskin on and continue. The one thing I have noticed between the pillow and the 99 seats is that on the 99 seat I would get localized hot spots and the pillow doesn't do that to me, but the feeling is spread out over a larger area and not near as intense. A simple shift in the seat is usually enough to make any discomfort go away instantly. Not so with the 99 seat. If you are having Monkey Butt problems then I would suggest getting a sheepskin to put in the saddle bag and alternate riding with it on and off. It makes a world of difference, plus it is nice to have to put on a hot seat and save your backside.
  12. Either you folks have really small hands or mine are abnormally large. There is no way I could get my hands in to change those without taking the tire off. Then again maybe I'm just abnormal. LOL
  13. Why stop at a RSTD? Why not go first class and get a RSV?
  14. I guess that would depend on what type of pads they are and how you use them. My original brakes lasted about 16,000 miles.
  15. Let me say this about that! I too put the RK's on my first 99 and drilled two 1/2 inch holes in the front baffles. I loved the sound and they looked sharp. Only problem was you don't get the cover over the joint, so I ended up putting two 1 inch HD clamps on each side to cover everything and make it look better. The 99 I just recently bought had the rear baffle stock pipe mod done and it sounded ok to me but I do like the RK sound much better. My wife complained to me about waking her up every morning when I left at 5 am so this past weekend I pulled my original pipes off the garage shelf, polished them up and mounted them on the bike. They, of course are much quieter, but the big difference I noticed was in "PERFORMANCE" I didn't realize what I was missing since I was not riding for 2 years. These MC's are tuned for those pipes and the back pressure they supply. The RSV's response is much smoother and I definitely get a smoother acceleration in 5th gear. With the modded pipes my RSV would not run smooth in 5th gear at 55MPH after putting the original pipes back on it runs smooth down to 40MPH in 5th. Now before you start yelling at me for that, just know it was "ONLY" a test and I don't run 5th that slow. I also got over 2 more MPG's after putting the stockers back on. I never noticed any performance drop off using the RK's drilled out.
  16. My 99 RSV moaned and groaned in the corners. It ended up being the rear splines dry and rusted. I just cleaned and greased them, now no noise. You should always grease the splines every time you change the rear tire. It could be the tires, but I'm putting my money on the splines since I have yet to hear of anyone getting a RSV from a dealership and the not being dry. If you have a lift it's about a 45 minute process to grease them. Look in the tech section for rear tire removal and I believe you will find info on greasing the splines.
  17. I can't see the site from work but it sounds like it's one of those "Light Changers" If so all they are is a big magnate you put on the bottom of your MC to trip the light. But then again you have to know the right spot in the road to put your bike to trip the light anyway. I know people who swear by them, yet I don't have one and can still trip lights. They mainly work in the big cities, if you live in small town USA the lights more than likely still work on weight.
  18. BigShell I wonder how many people know what Semper Gumby means. LOL You must be old school. :rotf::rotf:
  19. I'm not so sure his problem is the tires. It could be dry splines. I wouldn't rule out the rear brakes either. If you are heavy on the rear brake then you could have worn one of the pads down by now. Check your rear brake pads for wear and before I would pay to replace a tire, I would grease the rear splines. I had a something almost like that on my first 99, loud groan but only in the corners. Checked the splines and they were actually rusted. Cleaned them up and greased them, noise went away. On a tire note, I prefer Michelin Commanders also. I have tried Avon's, Dunlops, and another off brand and the MC's lasted the longest and really stick to the road. They also seem to absorb the road better.
  20. In answer to your original question there is actually close to .6 gallons left in the tank. It is on the right side and you CAN shake the bike back and forth and get some gas back to the left side and possibly get to a gas station if one is close. I know from personal experience. I made the mistake of not moving back off reserve and when the fuel gauge started counting down I ignored it because at the time I usually ran it until it sputtered then switched to reserve.
  21. Alan, it goes without saying that our prayers are with you and your family. I can't imagine what you are going through right now. Stay strong!!
  22. The only real solution is to get a shorter windshield so you can look over it when it does fog. Then you have to deal with the wind buffeting your head. Clearview makes a pretty good windshield. I have one on my 99 and the way it's shaped it sheds the FOG and rain off pretty good but you need to be going over 45 before it starts to clear. It does clear much better than the stock windshield.
  23. SaltyDawg

    Clock?

    Just hold both buttons in at the same time and the clock will appear. When you hit the low fuel light the clock will change back to the LF trip odometer. It doesn't matter which odometer you have selected if you hold both buttons in at the same time it will change to the clock. Don't feel bad I had mine for 6 months before I figured out how it worked. I would just fumble with the buttons until it came on. I'm not one for reading manuals too often. I can't remember off the top of my head how you set it though. I think once you have the clock up you push and hold select until the hours or minutes flashes and then the other button cycles through the numbers. Don't hold me to that though.
  24. Ride it like you stole it. I'm a firm believer that you get from it what you put in it. I have never concerned myself with a break in period except when it comes to fluid changes. I ride hard from the get go. Like Redneck said "Heavy Load No High RPM's. Don't wind the gears out and don't hit the limiter for at least 1000 miles. Change your fluids as per the scheduled maintenance and you should have no problems. 5 Year Unlimited Mileage. Need I say more? Wayne
  25. I think you will be happy with the Frog Togs. I have used mine several times and other than a little water around the neck they kept me dry and very comfortable in the hot North Carolina summers. The only reason water got in around the neck is that I can't stand anything tight around my neck so I wear them open at the top. Wayne
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