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SaltyDawg

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Everything posted by SaltyDawg

  1. SaltyDawg
    Yeah Cougar I considered the Odyssey but the price and having to get another charger plus down time waiting for delivery were more than I can manage.
  2. SaltyDawg
    Yeah TT I figured it would need a better charger for that. I checked the specs for the Batter Tender Plus and it's only 1.2 amp. Not nearly enough. If you use the right chargers you can get a good life out of batteries. I figured the Odyssey battery was a good battery if you have the proper equipment to charge it. I just can't afford both the battery and another charger at this time.
  3. SaltyDawg
    Time being short and this being pretty much my sole means of transportation I am going to go with a Drag Specialties High Performance battery that crosses to the Yuasa battery. The local store where my wife works part time has one in stock so I'm going to give that a try. I remembered this morning that the Wally World battery I bought was for my wifes 600 shadow. We changed that battery before we sold it this past year. So I don't know what the life span of the battery that's in my bike is. Thanks for the suggestion.
  4. SaltyDawg
    Nope but I did have a big batch of beans just before. They give me the Vapors!!!
  5. SaltyDawg
    How are the PC545's working for you guys? Any problems. I had an issue with my battery last night (not an odyssey) and am researching a new battery and came across this little tidbit about the PC545 that I thought you might want to know. Specifically the battery voltages and the charger they recommend for the battery. I haven't looked at my battery tender plus to see if it meets these specs or not. If not, I may go another way for my new battery. I know it refers to big V-twins, but remember the RSV charging system is woefully inadequate. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/files/pc545.pdf
  6. SaltyDawg
    Here is something I found about Odyessy batteries. I know it's for the PC545 but look under the cause and it will tell you the voltages for their batteries. 12.85 is fully charged according to them. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/files/pc545.pdf
  7. SaltyDawg
    Actually for most people when it's cold they don't ride as often and therefore the gas evaporates out of the carb bowels thus causing the fuel pump to stay on longer. BTW save yourself some electrical power and pull the fuse for the carb heaters. I have ridden in 17degree temps with mine disconnected and have noticed no performance difference.
  8. SaltyDawg
    I know what it is. Our rides have been invaded by "Pinko Commie Gremlins" bent on forcing all of us back to the 1st Gens.:stirthepot:
  9. SaltyDawg
    Just remembered this morning that I mis-spoke. I actually don't know how old the battery is in my bike. The one I bought from WallyWorld recently was for my wifes first bike, I replaced it just before she sold it. I have owned this bike since Dec 06, and I have no idea when if ever the battery was replaced.
  10. SaltyDawg
    Yeah I remember that post. You were not too happy about that. Sucks when you can't trust a mechanic. I would have to look at the wiring diagrams, but I don't see where an ignition switch would reset the trip meters. They get power constantly from the battery in order to keep their memory. Only time mine have ever reset is when I disconnected the battery. Anything is possible though. Just so you are aware I keep a battery tender on my bike every night, so that in itself will not keep the battery from going bad. Here is a link to my problem a couple months ago. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18234 I will try to look at the wiring diagrams today and see if I can determine whether or not the ignition problem will reset the trip odometers.
  11. SaltyDawg
    Could be a battery, it might be the ignition switch. I had something like that happen to me a few months ago on a cold day and if you saw my post from last night you know I now have a shorted battery. What happened to me a few months back was, the bike started, warmed it up and headed off to work. Got to the end of my street and accelerated into traffic when the bike just died. I had lights, the kill switch was in the right position but I still had no fire. Tried to start, engine turned over no fire, several times. Went to push it off the highway and out of the turn lane and tried it one last time, she fired right up and I had no problems until last night. If you are not sure as to how old the battery is, I would change it ASAP.
  12. SaltyDawg
    Beer30 Brandy says you are such a doll!!! You make her feel young again. Thanks again buddy.
  13. SaltyDawg
    Thank you all for your replies. As Mini said Muffinman called me as we were strapping down the bike on Beer30's trailer. He said right off that he thought it was a shorted battery and to jump it when I got home to see what happened. Well Jeff, you were right it's the battery. Thanks for the call, the guidance, and the offer to help. Hooked the jumper cables up to the bike and the car didn't even act like it had a load on it until I turned the key on and you could hear the car pick up the load, the lights on the bike came on and she started right up. Disconnected the jumper cables, shut the bike down had 12.77Vdc on the bat until the key was turned on then it went down to .2Vdc instantly, no lights, no nothing. Any suggestions on a battery? I'm not going with WallyWorld again that's for sure. This one is less than a year old. A big Thank You to Beer30 for coming to get me and Sasha with his Beer Hauler. Thanks Gene you saved my bacon. This club is more than that, it's a family ready willing and able to help at the drop of the hat. I am so glad that I stumbled upon this site last year. As a side note: I checked the ignition switch out for opens and shorts and it checked out fine. That was my initial thought, but wanted to check the easy stuff first. While checking out the switch is when I found the bat going to 0Vdc with the key on. At first I thought the switch was shorted out, but that was not the case. Thanks again to everyone.
  14. SaltyDawg
    Thanks Mini I just got off the phone with Beer30 he is meeting me at the front gate. Update again. When I turn the ignition switch on the battery goes from 12.77VDC to 0Vdc.
  15. SaltyDawg
    Update: Took the gas tank off and checked continuity of the starter switch. I had continuity between the brown/blue wire and the red and between the blue/yellow and the blue/black with the switch on. So by the book the switch is good. Here is the kicker I have 12.77vdc on the red wire to ground, so power is getting to and through the switch. Throwing my hands in the air now. Is there a computer or something on these things? I can't remember there being one.
  16. SaltyDawg
    Where is the 40amp main fuse. The batt is good I just have no power at all. Ground behind horn is good and tight.
  17. SaltyDawg
    Went out to my bike after work to head home. Put key in ignition, turned it on and stated the bike. The bike turned over 3 or 4 times and then just stopped. Indications are NO POWER ANYWHERE. No speedo, no lights, no aux, no radio, no nothing. Turned key off and on, removed key and reinserted and still nothing. I checked the fuses in the left side panel and the ones up under the right side lower faring all were good. Batt voltage is 12.75vdc. I am 50 miles away from home so any ideas as to where to look would be great. Thanks in advance.
  18. SaltyDawg
    Looking forward to getting my programing ala carte. I only listen to a hand full of stations and can't see paying for what I don't use.
  19. SaltyDawg
    I wouldn't compare the sizes of the clearview with the stock RSV shield as far as inches goes. The clearview leans back at a greater angle. Case in point if you looked at my clearview shield sitting next to a bike with the stock shield on it you would swear it was much shorter when in fact it's only 1/2 inch shorter. I am 6' and sitting up and craning my neck I can see over the stock shield, looking through my clearview, well actually looking over my clearview is easy because I can do it in my normal riding position, in fact the top of the shield is about even with the bottom of my nose. I don't know which one I have on, but I know it's not the XXL because Beer30 has one and there is a difference between the two shields. If I remember correctly the guy who bought this shield said it was a medium. As far as shedding water it does fairly well once you get above 45MPH. Anything below that and it's pretty much the same as the stock.
  20. SaltyDawg
    A few people have seats from Day Long Saddles and they are really happy with them. Expensive but comfy. They are custom made and you have to give them your seat's so they can use the pan. Also at the big bike events like Daytona, Myrtle Beach, and Sturges, and I'm sure others Mustang will actually make you a seat using your seat pan while you wait. At least they were last year.
  21. SaltyDawg
    No you don't have to change the plugs, but since you are already taking out the plug to put the colortune plug in you might as well change them. Sounds like you guys had some good eats and a good time. An impromptu meed and eat. It's not a proper meet and eat if a little maintenance doesn't get done.
  22. SaltyDawg
    You are correct that's because Yamaha changed the design of the shock because of a high failure rate. Unfortunately they only added a vent hose to the boot and didn't do anything to address the woefully inadequate spring and piston. Like I said before the failure rate seems to be roughly the same with the redesigned shock.
  23. SaltyDawg
    It's still early enough to petition the committee about having tickets that don't include lodging. Personally I wouldn't go if they didn't make an exception. What makes them think everybody wants to stay at a hotel that was chosen for them.
  24. SaltyDawg
    Well personally I wouldn't go with the OEM shock. Now since you have a 99 and I am assuming the shock has gone bad, some folks have gone to Yamaha and actually gotten a replacement shock free even out of warranty because of the reliability issues with the shock. From what I have read and seen, the "New and Improved Shock" is the same shock but with a vent hose added to it to help keep dirt out of the boot. Still has pretty much the same failure rate as the OEM. Yamaha has been known to replace the shock, but you will have to pay installation costs, or install it yourself. It's not really hard to do if you have a lift. I decided against the OEM replacement shock and ordered a Works Performance shock from www.buckeyeperformance.com email them and let Rick know you are a member here. The shock is about $700.00 delivered, (Rick will be able to quote you an exact price) but it is custom made for you, your bike, and your riding style. No two are the same. It can also be rebuilt for around $100.00 although I have not heard of anybody needing this service yet. I purchased one last year, installed it myself and couldn't be happier. I am a big guy 300lbs and I have had my 230lbs son on the back and not bottomed the bike out and it still drove like a dream. It is not an air shock but setting the preload is easy. To me it's worth the extra coin to have the ability to get it rebuilt for a lot less than the cost of an OEM shock, plus it's a much more reliable shock. I have 25k on mine and no problems at all. No moaning or groaning. Well ok I moan and groan a little when I have to get off the bike.
  25. SaltyDawg
    Be forewarned Timd261, it's not a pretty sight. It's not a quick grip and snip like back on the farm. Muffinman seems to take sick pleasure in castrating second gens.
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