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SaltyDawg

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Everything posted by SaltyDawg

  1. I did the same thing, I thought it ran better on mid and it did although I smelled raw fuel every now and then. Switched to reg and the performance seemed to go down, but the so did the gas smell. At least I thought it did. When I would romp on the throttle though my wife who was on her bike behind me could smell the gas,(complained about it a lot) so could Muffinman at Asheville last year. He stopped by and we colortuned and carb synced my 99 and she has been running like a scalded ape since. Getting great mileage, and great response with no gas smell. We colortuned my wifes Volusia and her mileage went from 33 MPG to mid to upper 40's.(she never fills the tank the same way:whistling:)
  2. I have to say, you're one of the few who gets better mileage. Then again I'm not familiar with other country's Octane ratings either. I had to convert the numbers in the trunk to find out what they are supposed to run on.
  3. Of the RSV's that I know have been colortuned the improvement in MGP and performance was significant. I have to say MPG is between 8 and 10 MPG pickup. That's not to say someone already getting low to mid 40's will improve into the 50's, but those in the low to mid 30's should get into the low to mid 40's. This bike should be getting around 40 - 45 MPG. Both of the ones I had did. One other thing. Your gas mileage will get worse if you are using mid or premium gas. I always thought it would improve mileage with higher octane, but it doesn't. Stick with regular unleaded, or if you are not using it switch to it and see. Anything over is just wasting gas and money.
  4. Unless you know someone with a colortune, you might want to look around for a shop that does it. Not all MC shops will colortune a bike. I'm not sure what they would charge either. http://www.carbtune.co.uk/colortune.html There are some US distributors of this product. I'm sure there are others like it too.
  5. CarbTune is a tool that allows you to sync the carbs. ColorTune allows you to adjust the fuel mixture on the carbs. Most of these bikes are setup rich from the factory. That's why you will have soot buldup in the exhaust pipes. Can't help you with the K&N's, but I would clean them annually at the least. I can say this, when I got my RSV it got 33 MPG and with a colortune and carbtune (sync) it jumped to 42-44 MPG. This is all measured with a GPS, NOT the ODO.
  6. Seems to me I've seen dem feets somewhere before. "But I ain't gonna tell you who it is"
  7. Gas mileage has been discussed a ton here. Everything depends on how you ride, how you fill the tank, how you are actually measuring the miles, and the speeds at which you ride. Gas mileage sucks if you are running in the 65 MPH range and above. Most will get low to mid 30's at those speeds. New plugs, color tune, and a carb tune will work wonders for your mileage. As well as clean air filters. First thing I would do is change the plugs and run a couple tanks of gas through with about half a can of seafoam in each tank. That will clean out your carbs and knock some of the carbon build up down. Then I would get it colortuned first then carb tuned. A carb tune will help a little on the mileage, but getting the colortune will make the biggest impact on performance and mileage. Hard on the throttle, jack rabbit starts, heavy traffic will all cause lower mileage. Measuring mileage with the bikes ODO is not the best judge of distance since most are off about 5%. Use a GPS for an accurate mileage. Filling up the tank the SAME every time will also help. If you don't fill up to the same mark every time then your mileage will vary. BTW there was no need to rejet the bike after the road kings were put on. I don't know a lot about rejetting so I can't say if that is effecting your mileage or not. Is it backfiring or popping on decel? Backfire can be fixed by removing or bypassing the AIS, popping on decel will probably be fixed by colortune/carbtune. Hope this helps some.
  8. Real nice thanks for sharing.
  9. Been there done that, never want to do it again. Although it was kinda interesting once when I, oh lets say --- passed gas while riding and it filtered up past the boys instead of out the backside. Kinda left with a flurry!
  10. Agreed. This is the best stuff on the market bar none. After putting that stuff on and you try to wash your hands it's like water running off a ducks back. It really takes some effort to get your hands wet to get the stuff off. I wear boxer briefs, puritan to be precise. I will purchase new ones for every trip and make sure I have at least one pair for every day of heavy riding.
  11. Self cleaning Gene Pool!!!
  12. I can't remember who did it, but there is a member either from here or the other venture site, who replace it with gas shocks like on a car hood. It required cutting and drilling some aluminum angle but it worked pretty darn good. If I remember correctly he had to do it on both sides in order to not tweak the lid when closing. I imagine your problem is like what was mentioned above, I had roughly the same thing happen to me. Now I just make sure to check the bolts every month or so. I use the same time to tighten the bolts holding the trunk on.
  13. I don't know, from what I have seen. You really are not wrapped too tight.
  14. Instead of compressed air I use WD40 and slip the tube under the rubber as far as I can and then give a squirt, push a little farther and repeat over and over. Worked for me.
  15. Take a ride around Lake Lure. I is just up the road and worth it.
  16. Great Pics Margaret. Thanks.
  17. Greasing the rear will not get rid of the whine, it is something that should be done with every tire change as a normal maintenance procedure. If it's not done, you will start to get a "Clicking Noise" coming from the rear end when moving forward slowly. Usually a sign of dry splines. The gear whine is always going to be there. The Jetson chirp if you have it can be lessened by changing the clutch basket.
  18. Neat, what's up with the blue covers over the lights?
  19. It's can't be murder because it wasn't premeditated. The charge should be Manslaughter.
  20. I think he offers the stainless with a black coating over them also. I could be wrong though.
  21. If the sound is coming from the rear of the bike then there might be cause for concern, but I doubt it. From what you described you are doing you are engine braking the bike and it IS NORMAL to hear some whining and it will get progressively louder as you go down through the gears. It's the nature of the beast. These things have straight cut gears and they do make noise. I have had 2 99 RSV's and they both did/do it. You have to consider what you are doing when you engine brake. You are taking something that, with you on it is over a half a ton and using relatively small gears to dissipate your speed and energy. It's going to make some noise. If it really concerns you, look for others in your area you can meet up with to listen to theirs or have them listen to yours. Or take it in to a shop and have them listen to it.
  22. Get with Rick at http://www.buckeyeperformance.com he sells all the cables for the RSV to use with the Flanders bar. Theses cables are, if I'm not mistaken 2 inches longer than stock.
  23. Good rule of thumb is to close all pop-ups with the X in the upper right corner. NEVER use any buttons within the pop-up. I used to have to rebuild my sons PC at least every other weekend because of that crap.
  24. All I can say is you get what you pay for. Besides, I got no use for 25 shocks.
  25. As for the shock, don't be surprised if you get it within a month. As for the leveling links, if that's the way you want to go then that would be the time to change them. My only concern will be with the height of the bike. If you are familiar with the RSV and know that you can afford for the bike to be 3/4 of an inch higher in the rear then go for it. If you have short legs it might not be good for you. To answer one of your earlier questions. If you fill out Ricks questionnaire about your riding style and everything else the shock will come preloaded for you. I have never had to change a thing. I ride solo most times, but do ride 2 up pulling a trailer with no changes to the preload. I took into account added weight of gear I carry in my saddle bags as well as extra girth down the road as I age. Now about riding with a bad rear shock, well that can get dicey if you are not a seasoned rider. The main thing to worry about is changes in the road during a curve in the road. The bike will have a tendency to bobble and can be unsettling while you are trying to concentrate on the road. I road for over 2 months before I could get enough money to order the shock and then had to wait for delivery. On rough roads, if you are a heavy person it can jar your fillings loose if you are not careful. I am 300 lbs and on decent roads had no problems with a blown shock. I'm not sure about running 70 or 80 down a superslab made of concrete though. The expansion joints might make it bounce up and down. It's a hard call. Me personally I would plan a route that took some nice back roads and enjoy the ride. I also wouldn't hesitate to ride it home. If it's a 99-02 model then you might want to invest in a sheepskin pad for the ride home unless it already has a pillow top seat. I can't remember if it's the 02 or 03 where they started putting them on. The earlier seats are pretty hard. Some people love them, those who like Corbin or Mustang seats don't seem to have many complaints about them. Good luck and keep us posted on how things go.
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