dfwthompson

Thanks...found the posts on syncing from scratch. If the tach is still slow after sync, will lube shaft then and let you know. Thanks john

My carbs are definitely out of sync. Is there a procedure online for syncing w/o a manometer. Tried a bench sync to #2...much worse than by ear. I tried making my own manometer per Youtube with 3/16th tubing and vac restrictors, using 2 cycle oil but after warm-up it tries to suck the oil at one or two carbs. Was thinking if the carbs were closer to sync it would not suck oil. Thanks john

I'm experiencing problems with my tach. It works but oh so slowly. I recently re-soldered the pins on the CPU plug and all my warning icons disappeared and headlight shines bright again. I originally thought the icon problem was dirty sensors but a lil solder cured my problem. Is it possible the tach connection also needs solder or is it a connection issue with the #2 coil? Has anyone had this same problem with their tach? I saw nothing in prior posts regarding a slow to respond tach. Thanks for all your help. john

Gary just completed clutch side and again starter side tests as illustrated in your PDUs...all is good????? You do nice work...great illustations! Where do I go from here? Thanks for your time and help! jt

Gary...do you know how many grounds (physical grounds) for cleaning purposes there are?

My kind of guy! I'll have a look...not much on schematics. If I get stuck I'll call. Installed a crank breather while I was in the area and just finishing up on the dimmer switch. No problems I could see. Thanks!!

Would that be the R/Y wire with power at the RLU connector?

Made the tests at the connector per PDU. All is good.

Thanks Gary.....the four contacts at the switch were bright and shiny. Haven't checked the hi/low selector yet. Will do that now.

Need a little guidance please. After replacing the diaphragms and adj a/f screws I was ready to sync when I noticed I had no headlight or meter lights after the the fuse box upgrade. Checked for power at the fuse and is good, wired headlight direct to bat... it's ok, cleaned starter switch and checked for continuity of the R/Y wire to the connector...no break it's good but still no light. Signal and tail circuits work fine, engine starts and idles. Checked the connector at the CMU....looks very clean. Headlight icon lit and the only dash lite working is the turn indicators and neutral lite. Temp and charge gauge works. Where do I go now. Is the issue with the CMU or RLU. I thought voltage passed through the CMU prior to the RLU if a draw was detected. HELP! jt

Thanks Gary...installing new diaphragms now. Will post and advise how things progressed with the sync. jt

Thanks Kevin....all sync screws backed out to loose. #1 and #3 fully close, #4 throttle plate looks like #2 when throttle is backed off with a little pressure. Plates moves just a hair to fully seat. Will sync #1 and #2 by ear first before attaching the carbtune. Will let you know how the new diaphragms work or I'll be asking for more help?? I ordered them a few yrs ago. I guess it's about time. Thanks again for your response. jt

Guys....cannot tell you how much this site has helped me not to mention the money I have saved. MANY THANKS to all of you!! I'm having an issue with #2 on my '83 V std not closing completely and not having any luck finding someone who has experienced the same problem. Thought I read somewhere in the svc manual about a barrel adj but can't find it or maybe dreamed it one. After trying every adjustment at grip and carb I noticed when I crank back on the throttle a barrel on the cable compresses a spring on the throttle stop at the top of #1 and the throttle plate seats as it should. Is there an adjustment I'm not seeing... either on the spring or the barrel? Thanks again!! jt