cabreco

Don't beat yourself up too much. If you paid the dealer to do a complete service, I would expect the tires to be at proper pressure as well as the oil level etc. BEFORE I left the dealer. Moreover I would be complaining!

Most definitely, with 15 psi the sidewalls probably flexed. I usually run 38/40 when 2 up. I also added those valve stem pressure indicator caps at Walmart. they are $5 for 4 a pack of and work great. I bought the 36psi ones. Much easier to keep track of the tire pressure on a daily basis http://www.walmart.com/ip/Gas-Saver-Valve-Cap-36psi/16776208 http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/09/23/29/13/0009232913437_180X180.jpg

Thanks Larry! I was thinking about buying an HD or wing to be able to trike it later, but my Gen1 has been running great and only has 16K original miles. So I figure for 1/4 the cost of the above I can eiter trike or sidecar my 84.

Am I correct in assuming the only way to trike a Gen1 is either with a Voyager Kit or to custom make it yourself? Hannigan or any othe company never made a kit for the gen 1?

No No Ray 2 months ago the stink issue cleared up after an 1,800 mile run. When I replaced the fuel lines shortly after I bought her, from carb to petcock, I ran straight Seafoam into the cars & let her sit a few days. It was a bear to fire up then! She's been on a 2oz per tank Seafoam diet since then!

Jeff, Until about 2 months ago (I've owned her for 18 months now) whenever I parked after a ride she would stink to high heaven (no leakes) I replaced hoses, tightened boots, overdosed on Seafoam etc. After my 1800 mile trip to Dragons tail, she was cured. I ALWAYS form the day I bought her get at least 10 to 15 clicks out of the pump when I turn on the key. I have parked on newspaper no leakes. I have inspected the carb bank, no leaks yet the bowls seem to evaporate. I'm happy the stink is gone when she's parked in the garage (happy wife), & the 4 brush starter is GREAT. Normally she fires right up, even after 2 or 3 days...after 5 is when the issues start.

LOVE Seafoam My Gen1 is addicted to the stuff!

I'll give it a shot net time up. BTW she has new diaphrams too. The reason she sits is I have a CB750 that I use locally. My Venture is usually for 2 up with the Mrs.

I KNOW that other gen 1 owners must have this issue. My 84 has a new 4 brush starter & a new fully charged battery. If I let her sit for a week (on center stand) then try to fire her up I usually get a nice fast cranking but she won't fire up right away. I will play with the choke & keep hitting the starter, but eventually the battery runs out of juice. I slap the trickle charger on her for 20 minutes & try again an after the third shot she fires up. Obviously the gas in my float bowls drys out. I do let the started click until it stops before I ever hit the starter button initially) So the question here is: aside from just starting her everyday, is there a "TRICK" (twist throttle set choke IDK kiss tailpipe & rub guardian bell) that any of you have tried that works for you? BTW I used to get a bad gas smell as you guy may recall, after a ride when I parked...that cleared up on it's own. (Don't know it it's related)

Dave, I JUST did mine last month! DITTO on Randy's post. He pointed me towards Pinwall, BEST CHOICE EVER! Starters are good, prices are decent, shipping is fast, their customer service is EXCELLENT!

Spent 20 minutes today following the E4 error, CLASS fix write up. Pretty simple fix, works like a dream. Funny though, the solders didn't look bad enough to be a connectvity issue. Anyway, Thanks to the writer & all of you who pointed me to it!

Squid, my main use is to make a light triangle so cagers can see me, but I found that they are as bright as the original halogens. I would definitely use the 35w led. The reason I bought these was the chrome housing looked alot better on the bike, more like a factory install. The siliconed LEDs went through monsoon weather on my trip to Dragon's Tail with no problems a all.

My aux lights from Walmart are these http://www.walmart.com/ip/Driving-Light-Kit/16680058 They use MR16 plug in halogen bulbs. http://www.etrailer.com/merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/Q/H/QH-87CD_1000.jpg The replacement LEDs 20w were these - very bright. They also had 35w (mind you that's an equivilent they draw only 6w each) I actually picked them up at Lowes. http://www.lowes.com/pd_105495-3-78492_0__?productId=3228293&Ntt=mr16+led&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dmr16%2Bled&facetInfo http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/046135/046135784927lg.jpg the only thing I did extra to them was seal the backs with silicon to make sure no water got in through the fins.

Take into consideration that brighter lights will eat more power. I would go with LED driving lights. They come in many shaped & sizes. I added a pair of chrome halogen bullets I forund at Walmart & replaced the bulbs with LED units I found at Home Depot The 1st pix is the original halogen units, the second is after the LED bulbs installed.

Isn't it funny, I know what you mean since I have an old CB750. Hondas get old & ugly but they are ALWAY the reliable backup. NOTHING stops them! You can find them on Ebay for $30 Boats.net also carries OEM kits.

I replaced all my lightbar & dash bulbs with white LEDs, The dash works GREAT. My rear light bar lights look pink~ish, but they work. Since I replaced over 22 bulbs the white was the most inexpensive approach. EVENTUALLY I will replace them all with colored LED's...EVENTUALLY. It did reduce my power draw considerably.

I just used a huge screwdriver to pry it off. (yeah I did have my share of cursing too) BUT everytime I hit that starter & hear her crank now I forget the struggle a little more. Now I understand how my wife felt about the pain of childbirth It's in the past ENJOY the FEAR FREE start ups!

Herb I just finished doing my starter on my 84. The only real problem I had was separating the exhaust pipe from the collector (ok & the leak I created in the radiator). It took me 6 hours to do. 2 hours doing a trial run on my parts bike. 2 hours actually doing it on my bike. 2 hours tracing the water leak & clean up. Were did you have the problems?

I have noticed that "USED", there seems to be 2 types of air shocks for the MK1 This one which I have on mine http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Venture-Royale-XVZ12-XVZ1200-XVZ1300-REAR-MONO-AIR-RIDE-SHOCK-ASSEMBLY-KYB-1983-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/Wp4AAMXQmWdRG6sE/$(KGrHqFHJEoFER,IJ9seBRG6sDlRHQ~~60_12.JPG & this one with a coil spring. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/83-YAMAHA-XVZ12-XVZ1200-VENTURE-SHOCK-16-/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/$(KGrHqJHJDIE+FvoOZ+eBP4LSjW,gw~~60_12.JPG Does anyone know why the difference on the same year bike??

No there is no air at all These are the specs from Progressive: Completely new for 2009, the 465 Series represents state of the art high pressure gas monotube shock design. It utilizes a large 46mm bore and deflective disc piston for precise damping. The beefy 16mm hard chrome shaft rides on custom viton seals for low friction and leak free life. The 465 is custom tuned for each application and is completely optimized for each bike, from the damping and spring rate all the way down to the jounce bumper.

Just Google & downloading rtl150.bpl from the Internet & re-install it in your system32 folder. Andy

I still have the oem class system on my 84, but I do have progressive front springs I got from Skydoc. I have been toying with the idea of getting a Progressive 465 Rear Shock & eliminating the air system altogether but the $400 price tag has been slowing me down. Has anyone replaced the rear shock with a Progressive 465 Rear Shock & was it worth it? I mean did it make a significant improvement like the front progressives do? http://i.ebayimg.com/t/New-Progressive-465-Rear-Shock-Yamaha-Venture-83-84-85-86-87-88-89-90-91-92-93-/16/!BteHIe!EGk~$(KGrHqIH-D4EvqidCvrEBL8GLwsb-Q~~_12.JPG

Randy, Are you sure of that file name? Could it be rtl150.bpl? On PC startup, you may get an error message indicating that rtl150.bpl is missing from the computer and reinstall the program may solve the problem. Most of the time, this error was caused when the rtl150.bpl file is missing or corrupt from the PC, and stops you from launching some programs or even the computer properly. The cause for the rtl150.bpl missing error is most probably a missing rtl150.bpl file from the computer. When the file is missing then the system will fail to locate it correctly as usual and you will sooner or later get the rtl150.bpl error messages. So, to fix such computer error, you need to get back the missing rtl150.bpl file. When getting the rtl150.bpl error messages, the first thing you should do is to directly restart the computer. Most of the time, problem was caused by some temporary bugs in the computer and will be fixed immediately after a system reboot. Then, search your whole computer to see whether you are able to locate the rtl150.bpl file on your PC or not. If so, skip this step and go to the next solution. But if you have cannot find the rtl150.bpl file on your computer any more, there are still three ways that you can do to get it back. Most of the time, you can fix the rtl150.bpl missing error by replacing the file on your computer, mostly in system32 folder. To do this job, you can: *Restore your computer to a previous state before the rtl150.bpl error message happens. *Download the rtl150.bpl file from a safe website & place it on your computer. *Copy the rtl150.bpl file from other computer with the same operating system. If you have recently uninstalled a program and then the rtl150.bpl error appears, it is easy to say that the program may have removed a required file for Windows or a Windows program to work properly. If the above solutions do not help to fix the problem, you may try reinstalling the program to get whatever file has been deleted back on the computer. Sometimes, you may get the missing rtl150.bpl error message when the computer is infected by some viruses. Even though you are able to fix the rtl150.bpl errors after the above steps, the virus can simply continue to remove, destroy and gobble up your files. So, do remember to run a virus scan & get rid of any viruses that are found immediately. Lastly, completely repair all Windows registry errors. When malicious entries appear and enter the registry, the registry will become the main causes for many PC errors including the Win32 Application errors. To always run the computer correctly without rtl150.bpl error, it is highly advised that you should have your registry fixed regularly and make it clean & compact all the time. You can quickly do this by downloading and installing a registry cleaner tool on the PC. It will thoroughly scan your whole PC and repair registry problems instantly. Basically, the rtl150.bpl errorcan be fixed either by re-installing the associated program or downloading it from the Internet. But you still have a bear in mind that, a corrupt Windows registry is also the main cause to this PC error.

Agreed! on my BMW M3 one side would blink fast & dim, it turned out to be a rusted out ground connection on the front signal. Check the sockets 1st & work your way in. Try running a ground wire to a good source & test each directional by temporarily replacing the ground. My bet would be the rear connections on the trike!

FOOTNOTE: For anyone who buys this for their bike, when the keyfob transceiver's AAA battery is low the fob will beep 3 times (faintly) every 8 minutes to let you know of the low battery status. IT DROVE ME NUTS! It's so faint it sounds like a watch. With all the electronics in my house it took me 2 hours to FINALLY find it. I wish the keyfob would beep as loud as when you set the alarm. Just a heads up to preserve someone else's SANITY