cabreco

I want to share with the club an Amazon supplier I found for LED bulbs. The vendor is called Speed Shop http://www.amazon.com/gp/browse.html?ie=UTF8&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&me=A33TCMZEAWOM9U The have all the LED bulbs my Gen 1 needed & the prices are EXCELLENT. I replaced all the 168 bulbs (dash, light bar etc) on my 84 last year with the AGT units. Not one has failed. Their customer service is EXCELLENT! I will be swapping out my other light bulbs now and also on my 81 CB750. Highly recommended.

When I bought the bike 2 years ago, that was job #2 right after I rebuilt the slave cylinder!

I tried to take a shortcut and initially only pushed the pistons in just enough to get my pads back in...and I wound up making more work for myself. Short cuts & loopholes don't work I should practice what I preach to my kid!

New fluid is in the plans for this riding season. I'm pulling off the anti dives & getting block off plates...so at that point freshen it up. There is obviously a slight drag since w/o the pads the wheel spins for 20 or so revolutions vs the 2 once it is assembled. (just like my truck brakes do) The wheel is easy to move but I do hear a slight rub. (my HH pads are new) The big concern I had was at 1st assembly she was HEAVY to push. Once I broke her down again & reassembled she felt the was she did before the addition of the covers.

Spacers? Neither one of my gen 1 bike had spacers.

Ok so I removed the calipers, & pads. I compressed the pistons on both sides of each caliper & reassembled. I spun the wheel & she free wheeled. I applied the front & back brakes so the pistons close. Now I am able to spin the wheel 2 full turns before it comes to a stop. When I pushed her she felt right this time. I think what happened is when I previously reassembled the brakes I did not compress both sides of each caliper. I think I am good now. Sometimes it just takes a little help & double check. Thanks guys for your help. Now I'm off to wire LEDS to the new bling!

Very quick question: I added the chrome rotor & caliper covers to my 84. When I added JUST the rotor covers & connected the speedo cable I spun the front wheel to make sure it worked. The fron wheel free wheeled & I could read 2 1/2 mph. When I attached the calipers & brakes the front wheel would not free wheel like before. (it does turn say one turn of the wheel) Once I squeezed the brakes an the calipers set, the front wheel was tighter. So my question is: Is this normal? or should my front wheel STILL be free wheeling when the brakes are not applied. I really never noticed before (I have changed brakes on her before) She rides fine but I just want to make sure the fronts aren't dragging. She felt a little heavier to push but that might just be in my mind.

Puc I'm from NYC, I can't say...YAWL! LoL!

The CB750 is a fast bike, I still have mine although not a pricey "prototype". No matter what else I ride I will never give up Fiona!~

Headed down to eastern Tenn this weekend with my wife & son to start researching locations for a move next year. Met up with Randy (Venturous) & Linda, two of the nicest people we have ever met. Had a great time at dinner. It was great to put a face to someone who has been such a great help on this forum! Looking forward to the move & to hanging out with our new friends/neighbors! This club has so many great people on it...I'm glad I came across it! Andy

Spark plug are next on my spring agenda. They are 2 years old and I did run Seafoam heavily when I first got her.

So after the 2 1/2 weeks of snow, sleet. rain etc I went to the garage to fire up the bikes. My 81 Honda fired right up as usual. (now that I have cutoff switches installed on the alarms) The 1st Gen...not so good. I clicked the emergency switch as Venturous recommended.(works well most times) It took 5 clicks for the fuel to stop clicking. She cranked normally but would not fire. I played with the choke and she sputtered but the more I cranked the more drain on the battery. She's on the charger now & in a few hours I'll be able to fire her up...but it is such a pain. I guess she will have to live on a battery tender. Sometimes I think I shudda gone with a Goldwing.

You may find this helpful http://micapeak.com/checklists/

I'm with you Margaret, I left Jersey to get AWAY from this stuff! Many say there is no such thing as global warming.... Were not screwing up this planet too much huh?

As Vincent LaGuardia Gambini would say:

Russell DEFINITELY do this update & go with a sealed AGM battery. I followed this write up & it too minutes. Radio Shack had all the parts I needed! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489

I was all set to pull the trigger on a new Deka from Skydoc. He made me a good deal & I had bought the progressive from him which I love but in light of the above, I can put it off a few years since the battery in my bike was bought in June.

Just as an epilogue to my battery issue... I again went looking for a parasitic drain but found nothing when I connected my multimeter. I left it connected & went to get a soda. As I was sitting there drinking, I happened to glance at the meter & saw the needle jump every 10 seconds or so. I started disconnecting stuff until I found it. It appears when the alarm is NOT armed, it pulses. When armed it is a steady draw. I have one of those 2 way alarms that notifies the keyfob when the alarm goes off. I disconnected the alarm fuse Dec 17th & have not touched the bike. I when out today & tried to start her & It's kinda cold outside today. It took about 5 hits of the starter button, but she started...& with NO visible loss of battery cranking power. So I have my culprit. Now to install a hidden secure disconnect switch for the alarm ground.

Just got the bling package from Paysaw, all I can say is WOW! This chrome is in PRISTINE condition! The caliper covers didn't have so much as a blemish! Bob, if you saw this stuff you would think it were NOS. If the rest of the chrome he has is in as clean condition, I would recommend anyone looking for that stuff to snap it up, you may never see stuff this clean again! Thanks again Ray!

Illegal immigrants are winning out over military veterans in budget bill. Not surprised Senate Dems prefer tax credits for illegal immigrants over military retirement benefits. But to see some Republicans accepting this position is even more disturbing. http://allenbwest.com/2013/12/unbelieveable-illegal-aliens-win-military-veterans-budget-bill/

I turn the key & the clock is blinking 1:00 before I hit the starter, NOW if I ride the bike for a few days she will keep time & stay on time BUT if she sits a few days without a nice long ride it resets. The capacitor comment makes sense since there is no battery or memory lead. When I took her to Dragons tail the clock worked great for a while.

I have an extra dash cluster & I didn't see a battery either. If it does use a capacitor, if anyone knows where it is LMK. I did have a battery issue (even though it's only 5 months old) with the battery weakening & the bike straining to start but I figured out that my ALARM was actually draining the battery EVEN WHEN NOT ACTIVATED! Since I pullled the alarm's fuse I have not needed to use a float charger as the bike fires right up.

Is there a battery in the 1st Gen dash to power the clock? When I use the bike consistently, the clock keeps perfect time BUT if I let her sit for a while the clock resets to 1:00. when I 1st start the bike. Now if I set the clock & ride she keeps time, but if I let her sit several days un-started the clock resets again. Anybody have any clues? Let me add that once I start her, set the clock & ride she will keep time after I shut down. It only resets is the bike is unused for several days. My battery if fully charged!

Na, not dead weight SAFETY EQUIPMENT! LoL Lights LIGHTS & MORE LIGHTS! So I can be SEEN better! But first I have to convert them all to LED before I install them!

NEENER!