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cabreco

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Everything posted by cabreco

  1. cabreco
    That makes sense BUT I never hit the starter button. I just turned the key to on to check the time. BUT with all the work I've been doing starting & turning accesories on & really not running the bike much the battery is not 100% ( I just checked) so I just slapped on the trickle charger to see if topping it off fixes the problem. If not, then this looks like a Gremlin I may have to deal with. Coming soon...PROGRESSIVE FRONTS SPRINGS & NECK BEARINGS - Just for S&G!
  2. cabreco
    OK it GETS wierder! The clock is NOT going too fast it's resetting! Last night 3 hours after I set it it was still keeping time. This morning I checked & the time said 1:00. I am assuming that is what happens when you pull the battery or if the clock loses power... But why was is keeping time for 3 hours last night??? If there was a fuse blown to the memory, I would imagine it would reset every time I shut the key off. It's now a weak battery, the bike starts right up every time. Could it be a loose connection to the memory? (even though the bike hasn't budged) GREMLINS??? Has anyone else had this problem? I can't say if it worked before the fix but could the battery electrolyte warning light/resistor fix be affecting it?
  3. cabreco
    It appears niether. Since I reset it the time at 6:45 pm has been rock solid. Jeff (Flyinfool) my have hit the nail on the head. The bike is just sitting in the garage right now. I suspect that while in motion, that the contacts are sticking or dirty with something conductive or the panel may be vibrating enough to press the button contact. Tomorrow I'll take her out & see if it changes, if so I'll hit it with some CRC electrical cleaner & see if it stop doing this. I'll let you know what turns up.
  4. cabreco
    Yeah I know it's wierd. Quartz doen't mess up like that! I just double checked it. It is on clock mode. I switched to stopwatch to see & that worked ok. I switched it back and reset the time. Here's something else to ponder...Only the hour was off by 3 hours, the minutes were still synced on time. It may be just a coincidence. We'll see tomorrow.
  5. cabreco
    I think the easiest fix would be to set the clock to stopwatch & leave it at 0:00, and just look at my watch if I want to know the time! since the rest of the meter works perfect. You know the old saying: If it ain't broke.....
  6. cabreco
    Well I seem to be down to the small things the make me twitch My 84 has a the digital lcd clock in the cluster. It works, no buttons are stuck. I am able to set the time with no problem. I have power when I shut the key off & short term she seems to be keeping time. I set it two days ago to match the clock on my GPS which is also the same time as my Honda750. Today I happened to look at it and it is 3 hours faster that the GPS & the Honda, which are still in sync. Is there something I should check to fix this or is it basically useless?
  7. cabreco
    Ed these guys on this forum are TOPS! They bend over backwards to help at a moments notice! I'm really looking forward to doing a face to face with them on some rides this summer! Post up some pix of Brown Sugah, we'd love to see your progress. Good Luck http://www.oldshanghaionline.com/_all-images/home_and_entertaining/drinkware-lacquer_wine_holder/50/lq03-good_luck-50.jpg
  8. cabreco
    Most definitely Earl, but I can't take all the credit for her. I've had A LOT of help from members of this forum. So I look at her as a group effort. Took the wife today for a ride and she loved it. She couldn't believe the difference between this & the CB750 in ride & comfort. She's actually looking forward to "Road Time"! Where & when is Don's M/D?
  9. cabreco
    Dan, Good idea but not necessary. The carbs on Bernice were rebuilt not to long ago and the carbs were synced by Jeff (Muffinman) for the previous owner in August. I have also run the last 2 tanks of gas with Seafoam in it for the hell of it. If I haven't done so it other posts... Thank you Muffinman, The Bike runs like a DREAM! You definitely know how to sync a carb bank!
  10. cabreco
    Today I changed the oil but decided to run some Seafoam through the crankcase 1st. I was told the oil was change back in August (but I trust no one). The oil was a dark gold caramel color. I found that out during the midcase cover spill while doing the slave cylinder. I warmed up the bike, dropped in 6 oz of seafoam & spent the next 5 minutes on the centerstand going thorough the gears. I cannot adequately describe the black sludge that I drained out. Not to mention the condition of the filter! After I changed the oil I did notice that the bike runs cooler. (according to the gauge). All in all Seafoam in the crankcase is a good idea...at least once!
  11. cabreco
    Ok now that i conquered the slave, the air leak, the stripped reservoir screws & the fork oil leak, I'm going to tackle the gas stink. Since I want to do a gas filter ANYWAY, I figure I will change all the fuel lines. So I wanted to know if anyone had the diameter/sizes & type of hose recommended for: The petcock to gas filter hose. Gas filter to fuel pump hose Fuel pump to carb hose Tank vent hose I figure it this way, the bike is 28 years old, she sat for awhile after the original owner died. I wouldn't doubt it if they are OEM.Rubber breaks down & it couldn't hurt to replace them. It would be easier to buy a few feet of the appropriate hoses before I take the old ones out. BTW can I use ANY gas filter or just a Yamaha filter?
  12. cabreco
    You know I have got to admit that Joining this forum has beem the BEST $12 I've ever spent!!! I started looking around for any "quick fixes" for the fork seal since it's only a tiny dribble. I saw the temporary fix about lifting the dust cap & adding a tsp of ATF to the seal so it may swell and a few others. Then I came across this JEM: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=57744&highlight=film+strip This worked like a charm! Once I lifted the dust cap I found a pool of oil under it. I sopped it up & noticed it slowly refilling. Once I got the corner of the film between the seal & fork tube, I worked it around the tube. I did see some tiny specs of white stuff on the film & stuck on the tube afterwards. I wiped it down, filled the fork air to 17psi & waited. It's been an hour & a half. I haven't lowered the dust cap yet to see if the groove fills with oil. It's still dry. Great idea DynoDon!!!!
  13. cabreco
    So overnight I held air pressure so that is all fixed. As I said, the fix came at a price. I now have a small drip of fork oil coming from under one tiny spot (pinhole) on the right fork dust cover. I am assuming I need to replace the seal. The thing that confuses me is why am I holding air pressure but leaking fork oil. Aren't the fork seals the same for both??
  14. cabreco
    SUCCESS! (sort of) I replace the o-rings on the new solenoid as well. She is now holding air pressure steady. Of course there is a price for everything. I just noticed that the right fork tube left me a little dribble of fork oil. I just dropped the front pressure to 14psi to see if it helps! http://www.mortalkombatunited.com/images/smilies2/SmileySuicide.gif
  15. cabreco
    CLASS is all resoldered. I took the time while the back end unit was being shipped to redo the circuit board coneection. I tell you it was A LOT easier than when I resoldered my Fender amp!!
  16. cabreco
    Well I sprayed the connection at the shock with soapy water, no leak the connection between the 2 lines at the frame, no leak cracked the fitting & re seated. let it sit fully pressurized for 2 hours dropped to 64 psi (lost 6psi in 2 hours) I took off the trunk AGAIN (mind you my strunk is mounter permanently) I sprayed the connection at the soleniod & damn if it didn;t bubble. I snugged it up again & it still bubbled. I purged the rear, removed the banjo connector & replaced the o-ring at the seat of the solenoid & reinstalled the banjo. I resprayed & I don't see any bubbles. I'll be damned if I re attach the trunk tonight. I think I'll wait until tomorrow morning to see if it loses any pressure. I THINK I got it this time (knock on wood)!
  17. cabreco
    Noooo, I am too OCD for that. It must be perfect! http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u132/beedah2/Smiley/th_smiley-crazy.gif
  18. cabreco
    I spoke too soon. The front fork are holding steady at 16psi The rears, unfortunately, are not. I am losing about 3 psi per hour. Don't get me wrong, it's better than 9.6 psi per hour...but still. If I recall correctly, I saw the rear shock has a 2 lines connected in? One from the shock to the center connecter the then center connection to the banjo fitting at the solenoid. right? Also does the rear airline screw into the shock or is it permanent? I'm hoping either the fittings are lose or the orings need replacing.
  19. cabreco
    PROBLEM SOLVED! I took the lazy way out and replaced the entire unit. I was going to rebuild the compressor, but then I thought...well what if it's not that & it's the solenoid? Also, since my dryer filters were shot I figure I'd look around. I found the complete rear unit for $75. Bolted it in pressured right up. Afterwards I baked the silica gel to dry it up, put it back together. The dryer filters were perfect, and I'm NOT losing pressure! SO IT'S TIME TO RIDE... OH CRAP....it's raining HARD!!!
  20. cabreco
    KIC FYI I just did my battery probe following the thread instructions here 15 minute fix. I used the 2.2k ohm resistor & it worked first shot. BTW nice bike, you got a hell of a deal for $1,500!
  21. cabreco
    Free is definitely good. Like I said the Keltec will do the job it conceals nicely and as a gun to start out with its great. It will always be a good target gun because 9mm rounds are the cheapest. When it's time to move up I would move to a 40 cal. You can check out Buds. They have pretty good deals At worst case the Keltec will never go to waste. When you outgrow it, it make a great nightstand gun...or even a gun to keep in your truck. Next step is to get a good holster.
  22. cabreco
    We can only pray H.R 822 passes into law, so NYC Mayor Bloomberg can suck eggs!
  23. cabreco
    Ohio is a traditional open carry state, but I do recommend getting a concealed carry permit. It gives you options.
  24. cabreco
    I currently have several, a Glock 19, a Bersa Thunder, an EAA 357 snub and a S&W a 357 K frame. So I have a pretty well rounded collection. I did have a P11 but it wasn't my cup of tea. The P11 trigger pull is long and about 8 to 9 pounds. Don't expect the light pull of a Glock or a single-action semi-auto. They do have malfunctions where they don't extract the casing properly & on occasion the slide will lock up open like if the magazine is empty but it's not. This never happens when the gun is clean and when shooting hollowpoints or personal defense ammo. Also, use only brass, not steel casings like the TulAmmo. It will beat the crap out of your extractor. Bottom line the P11 will do the job, and the 9mm ammo is relatively inexpensive, but it would not be my 1st choice.
  25. cabreco
    EXCELLENT!!! My bike vin says JYA41V so I have a true 1984 VR Thanks Kevin!
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