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cabreco

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Everything posted by cabreco

  1. cabreco
    The capacitor suggestion may be, I took her out today & the clock was reset. Oh well, I'm just going to have to live with it because it ain't worth getting into it for just a clock.
  2. cabreco
    Did you check the o-rings on the caps? I had a slight air leak on my 84 when I bought her. I found it by spraying window cleaner (soapy water) on every possible area that make leak. Fork seals Caps Air inlet on forks Air lines Air connections Air compressor/Solenoid I finally found it in the solenoid compression washer.
  3. cabreco
    Bobby, I just did my Gen 1. I brought the bike to operating temp, added 6oz of seafoam to the crankcase (1.5oz/qt oil) The ran it on the centerstand for 5 minutes, going through the gears. Got a great clean! The oil which usually was caramel color came out BLACK! Changed the oil & filter & she actually runs cooler.
  4. cabreco
    So whether I leave the anti dive on or off is inconsequential. Thanks for the tip on the caps. I read they can be a real PITA to reinstall and crossthreading is a problem fighting the preload. I think of all the upgrades, this will be the most notable in feel!
  5. cabreco
    My riding style is GEEZER! My days of flying around are way behind me, bike or car (especially on a bike). Like parachuting, it's not the fall I am worry about but the sudden & abrupt stop! So then cut the spacers to 3/4" and use 10 wt oil. What about the anti dive? I don't know what it is currently set at but it doesn't bother me as is. Does that need to be reset to the lowest setting or should I just wing it?
  6. cabreco
    Ok I've been reading EVERYTHING I can find on installing the progressives. It looks simple enough, I have all the tools needed. I do have a few questions 1. The forks call for 10wt oil but some use 15wt, What is the consensus on weight? 2. I see some cut the spaces to adjust preload, what result would I get with the stock 1 1/4 spacer provided with the kit? 3. I plan to keep the Class installed. If I keep the front on Min setting 8Lbs what result should I feel? (I know progressives don't need air but pressing front min by accident) 4. What would happen if the same were filled to the Max 17 psi? I did read this somewhere here: Progressive provide a plastic spacer and washer to adjust the preload. Their spacer is 1 ¼" long and can be cut to adjust the preload. I took the old spring washer, turned it upside down so that the lip that used to go in to the fork is now pointing up, took the old cap that sat on the old spacer and put it on top and inserted it. This gives approximately 1" of preload and is easier to install than their spacer. Is this a good idea?? Eventually I will replace the rear shock with a progressive ($$$$$) , at that point the CLASS becomes an onboard tire filler. Sorry for all the questions but I would rather ask now that cry later. So far you guys have not steered me wrong!
  7. cabreco
    Splooged! Yeah weight off the forks & crack the air line at the solenoid. I found out the Class always leaves 8 lbs min in the forks. Hey we live & learn. (now I know to cover my Honda & Merc just in case) Hey Mike...WHAT NO PIX???
  8. cabreco
    More details: Ok the plot thickens. The smell of gas is not as bad as when I first posted, possibly due to the 2 tanks of gas & seafoam I have run through it. This is what happens now. I take the bike for a ride. I park her in the garage. Within a 1/2 hour I go in there and the smell is basically mechanical (the smell a hot gas powered vehicle makes). No problem. After an hour or so the garage has a gasoline odor. (not as strong as before) I open the garage door & let it air out for 10 minutes. I close the door. The gas smell does not return unless I take her out again. I think Bernice is just messing with me now! ...but it has gotten much better.
  9. cabreco
    I used a block in the front cross too when I was cleaning the rims. Now on a M/C jack where would the 2 skids cross under the bike to LIFT it completely off the ground without messing stuff up?
  10. cabreco
    Using an automotive floor jack (and a block of wood) what is the best location to lift the bike. (for example to change fork bearings) I don't see clear access to the frame & I don't want to crush the exhaust. Can I use the engine pan? I will eventually get a M/C Jack Sorry for all the questions but I don't find any in the search & I figure thre will be something for future VentureRiders!
  11. cabreco
    So I suppose, unless it is absolutely needed, I should wait to do bearings until I tear her down to paint her. As far as the stem tool, Dingy set me up with the wrench & I do have a complete workshop of tools (I restore cars for a hobby) so I'm good to go there. I guess I should have waited to put her back together when I stripped her down last month. Impatience gets the better of me sometimes
  12. cabreco
    Lithium grease...cables best friend!
  13. cabreco
    At least Yamaha had the brains to see the design stunk & switched to something else! Thanks for the heads up
  14. cabreco
    The choke on my 84 works. The bike starts & runs ok BUT the control won't stay on choke. I have to manually hold the contol towards choke until the bike warms up. The previous owner had a tiny bungee on it, but again my neurosis can't accept the bungee there. Is there any way to fix or adjust the twist choke control?
  15. cabreco
    Those old Caddys had power. My Eldo wound up being a power train donor car for a Sterling Kit car I built. Just under 2000 Lbs curb weight with an 8.2L. This thing would put Corvettes to shame!
  16. cabreco
    Jeff, of THAT I have no fear. 2 years ago my wife decided that she had to lose the "baby weight" (my kid was 15). So she mapped out a complete restructure of our eating habits & life. We began eating healthy & excercising by riding bicycles 10 miles a day. I can in all honesty, say me posting she weights 110Lbs is fine with her. (considering she dropped 58 Lbs in a year. Funny, I don't remember my son weight 58 lbs at birth ! By joining her in support, I went from a 1 cheeseburger away from a stroke 286lbs to 220lbs. So I am "relatively" safe since she is thinner than when we met 25 years ago.
  17. cabreco
    Check the clock this morning...still on time. So it appears that when the battery is not a 100% even turning the key to on will reset the clock. I would have though not, since the bike would start up normally if cranked. Guess it's just one of those things!
  18. cabreco
    Ah yes, the "Breezeway" back window! I actually have one on my Ford Sport Trac, they are great. My 17 year old has his eye on my Merc. The Lead Sled...Kids today don't mind 4 doors. He thinks it's a big car, in it's day it was only a midsize. He would be floored if he had ever had the chance to drive the 72 Eldorado I owned years ago. (8.2L front wheel drive LOL) Personally, I want a 2 door. I will eventually replace it with a pre 73 Mustang.
  19. cabreco
    Excellent! I am the type to research & prepare prior to work so this will come in handy! I'm looking to make this glide over bumps. My racing ays are behind me (plus that's what I have my CB750 for! I weight 220, but I will have to consider my wife & I riding 2 up with say 40Lbs of STUFF! So total loaded touring weight would be 370Lbs. As far as the "feel", I am still going to keep the Class available to fine tune the ride. So I should be able to get away with the out of the box preload. I also bought the neck bearing tool from Dingy. I figure I'll do the neck bearings while I'm at it to avoid having to teat it down again! Thanks again for the heads up.
  20. cabreco
    The ones on Ebay would com out to $78. The extra $13 to Earl would not kill me & like you said it supports our fellow member. Plus I like the fact that I would be dealing with a trusted individual.
  21. cabreco
    Earl, you'll be hearing from me in the next couple of weeks! Will I need anything else (oil of course) other that what is in the box to install? (spacers washers etc?)
  22. cabreco
    You have a lot of work there, but the good thing is your initial costs were low. There are a lot of parts on Ebay, & people here are incredibly helpful. One step at a time, you'll be up & riding in no time!
  23. cabreco
    Ok Now that I am basically road ready, I want to tighten the front end. The Class is working perfect but regardless of the air pressure the when driving over manholds & bumps the front kinda clunks. So I'm going to redo the front end. 1. New Progressive Springs 2. New Neck Bearings - the neck bearing are tight but since I will have the handlebars off why not do the bearings I need a good source for Springs. & good = less expensive. Also are Lytle Racing Group or Air Balls Racing Neck bearing good? If not which do you recommend? After this is done it should be time for long distance cruising time!
  24. cabreco
    I shot all the buttons & switches with CRC just to clear them up. Stuff like my directionals were kind of sticky and hard to cancel manually, my horn & starter buttons were sticking etc. Needless to say everything works great. As far as the clock goes Flyinfool hit the diagnosis! If the battery is low... I have had her on the trickle charger all day to top off the battery. The clock has not failed yet. I guess the headlight was drawing juice & knocking out the clock, but the bike would start up. Eh, who knows. It's one of those thing I have tried to explain to my wife. Sometimes the only explaination is "$h*t Happens"!
  25. cabreco
    Buttons "appeared" clear but who knows. She did keep time accurately from 6:45 pm untill just before midnight. Of course this morning when I checked it said 1:00. Well I will shoot it with CRC but if it turns out to be more than that...I'll use my watch to tell time! This at least I could live with since my GPS has a clock built in.
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