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cabreco

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Everything posted by cabreco

  1. cabreco
    Worse case scenario... IF (and I doubt you will) want a stiffer ride, since you fixed the CLASS air ride controller, you can always add air to the front to compensate for the lack of preload spacers. Look on the horizon...CRUSIN' FUN almost there!
  2. cabreco
    Not a Gun Debate anymore - It's a car Debate! http://1389blog.com/pix/alarmed-popcorn-smiley.png
  3. cabreco
    GO BIG BLUE! http://autobikegallery.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/OCC-NY-Giants.png
  4. cabreco
    I saw that coming when I wasn't getting any more email notifications on that thread! I missed when it got out of control. FOR SHAME KIC...FOR SHAME!
  5. cabreco
    The wire at HD was like automotive battery cable (I built a 100' Patch cable from the generaor to the transfer box) and just as stiff. I didn't know that the McMaster Carr wire had that flexibility, that would definitely be a big plus when neatly routing wire around tight places!
  6. cabreco
    Since you'll have all the stuff off her anyway I'd change to 4 gauge wire. BTW Home Depot usually sells 4 gauge by the foot. I bought some a few years ago when I wired a house generator
  7. cabreco
    She's too "mature" to pull a stunt like that anymore...Good thing, if she'd have pulled a Janet Jackson someone might have gotten hurt tripping on them!
  8. cabreco
    I drive with the mindset that everyone on the road is an oblivious idiot (here they usually are). I also ride with an onboard video cam, a neon yellow reflective vest & I'm not afraid of using my horns A LOT.Even if it's just a quick tap when I go through an intersection & someone is in the opposite turn lane. This will never end because the penalties for distracted driving are not severe.
  9. cabreco
    I didn't know the royal star starters fit! Cool cuz if I'm not mistaken they have 4 brushes right?
  10. cabreco
    Make sure the zip tie is ABS not nylon or vinyl. You should only fuse like plastics. (harbor freight sells ABS white welding rods 25 for $6. Also, use plastic cleaner to prep the surface area. Surface prep is key to getting a strong bond. Using a soldering iron to melt the plastic on the INSIDE will not severly affect your paint (if you are careful) Using a hot air welder will bubble the paint around the weld.
  11. cabreco
    I recently bought my 84 myself and have fixed some of the issues you stated. To add to Dingy's list 2. front end suspension seems off. saw oil on the brake caliper. feels uneasy in turns. it takes the bumps really hard up front, but feels okay on a smooth road Lift the dust caps & run a trimmed 35 mm film negative around the fork seals. Mine did the same thing & this cleaned out whatever junk that was causing my leak. It may save you some aggravation! Check the neck bearing (Dingy sells a kick ass wrench) I had clunking & sloppiness on turns. Got a wrench from Gary & the problems disappeared!!! 3. the air suspension monitor seems to not be functioning. i only see "psi" on right side If your not getting any display check to see that you're getting power to the unit. BTW in case you didn't know, it only works when the key is clicked to accessory position. Worse case scenario Ebay! 6. rear trunk has the small cracks around the front holding tabs, making it a little wobbly You have a few routes to fix this. You can use weld-on adhesive or use a plastic welder. (I preferred to plastic weld with a hot air welder from harbor freight) 8. seemed like neutral was a little hard to find when the bike was hot Slave Cylinder rebuild is really a joke to do, getting the slave out was the frustrating part. Welcome & good luck. Great bunch of riders here. Best $12 bucks I EVER spent. I can honestly say joining this forum made getting my bike road worthy VERY EASY!!!
  12. cabreco
    If you go the ABS welding route I would suggest you get a hot air welder (harbor freight) With a crack like that you can get away with drilling a relief hole at the end of the crack & welding it only on the inside. I just finished welding & rebuilding every panel on my gen 1, It was fun. The hardest part was dealing with the careless burns to my skin! [ame] [/ame]
  13. cabreco
    I've also been dealing with B&H for years. Good company! All of my Nikon SLR's, lenses & deveoping equipment, I bought form them. The have real good refubished deals as well. Now that film has gone away, I'll be in the market of a new Digital Nikon. I was looking a the Nikon D3000 since all my old Nikkor lenses will fit!
  14. cabreco
    Actually I just tighted my neck bearing with this wrench. Took a few minutes. Took off the plastic cover, the 2 fastners that hold the handlebars in place, the center lockdown & the bearing ring nut. Very easy. While on this topic... You know Working with Dingy's" Spanner wrenches, or Dingy's Head Bearing Ring nut wrench is all well & fine, but I find it really uncomfortable refering to it as "doing an adjustment with Dingy's tool"! That just SOUNDS WRONG!
  15. cabreco
    Seafoam is very forgiving as to how much. If you notice the 16oz can says it will treat 8 to 25 gallons! Siding with caution I used the 25 gallon per 16/oz calculation an add 3oz or so to my 1st gen full tank. You will see a drop in mpg when you add SF to gas, on the next tank you will be good!
  16. cabreco
    Well yesterday I received the neck bearig tool from Dingy. So today I decided to check & see if my bearings needed tightening. I was relieved that it was actually fairly easy to do. I took off the handlebars & found that the center lockdown nut was loose (one finger loose). I decided to check the play at the wheel and although it wasn't sloppy loose, I did feel a slight "bump bump" when I gently pulled & pushed the front forks front & back. Ok so I used the neck wrench & easily got 1/4 turn out of it. I checked the front again and did not feel the bumping or binding. I reassembled it and took it for a spin. WOW! What I was feeling was NOT the forks bottoming out, it was the loose neck bearings nut. I drove around running over sewer covers, small pothole, making tight turns. I heard & felt NOTHING. No vibrations, no noise...nothing. What I did notice is that she handles tighter circles at low speeds much better. SO for now I am going to put the progressives on hold until next year, when I will wind up getting front & rear (if this bike proves worthy this summer) With the exception of sealing the carb boots to the air box, I think I am now road worthy. I have to find the sealant to use on that. Starting of with short trips!
  17. cabreco
    I changed the oil, & I found that even after a half hour it was still dribbling. I reattached the plug & cover and turned the bike around with the bike facing down my driveway. When I pulled the plug & filter cover, out came MORE oil. I let it sit for another 1/2 hour until nothing came out before replacing the plug & filter!
  18. cabreco
    I went ahead & installed new horns on my CB750. The OEM horns were really weak sounding so I swapped them out for a set of Fiamm Hi/Lo from a 2003 Lincoln. Why a Lincoln? 1. I like the big car sound 2. They are real easy to pull of at the junk yard. 3. The are plastic faced Anyhow, very easy install, used a relay. The Power came from a fused line off the battery I have already. The OEM wires powered the relay without having to cut anything. And the horns grounded right to the frame. Of course I needed a few terminal ends & a few strips of 1/4 shrink tubing as well as wire wrap. I had everything but the horns lying around so for me the cost was $8.00 for the horns at Pick & Pull! They are loud & the blend into the blackness of the bike! As far has mounting them on your bike, that would be up to you. Here's a quick video [ame= ] [/ame]
  19. cabreco
    Definitely before. Then change the filter. No need to remove oil to make room for SF. The oil viscosity will break down to watery consistency. Like I said, I warmed up the bike 1st to get the oil at operating temp, then I added the SF. Ran it in there for 5min going only, though the gears.
  20. cabreco
    Once you spray the fork seals, if you do see leaks try this first. DynoDon her on this forum gave me this tip & it worked beautifully! I used this method to stop an oil leak at the forks "If you take a strip of film negative (trim the "sprockets" off because they can break off, so the sides are smooth, and round the corners of one end) and after raising up the dust seal, slip the negative under the fork seal, keeping it tight to the fork tube. The film will go in the seal maybe 1/2" or so. Stop at that point and then carefully and slowly just slide the negative around the tube, keeping it mostly vertical with the tube. Do this about 2-3 times, just sliding it around the tube with it under the seal. Remove the film and wipe down the tube, and test it by bouncing. It should stay dry." Other than that you may just have a bad seal.
  21. cabreco
    Brian, the black tape is why I fixed the battery sensor Anyway, it definitely looks like a capacitor. I didn't bother to reset the clock but it has been keeping time since I turned the key. (it shows 7:30) I took the bike out at 11:00am, so 7 1/2 hours ago. I live with it by pushing the stopwatch button One day (probably next winter when I skin her to repaint) I will look into it.
  22. cabreco
    The capacitor suggestion may be, I took her out today & the clock was reset. Oh well, I'm just going to have to live with it because it ain't worth getting into it for just a clock.
  23. cabreco
    Did you check the o-rings on the caps? I had a slight air leak on my 84 when I bought her. I found it by spraying window cleaner (soapy water) on every possible area that make leak. Fork seals Caps Air inlet on forks Air lines Air connections Air compressor/Solenoid I finally found it in the solenoid compression washer.
  24. cabreco
    Bobby, I just did my Gen 1. I brought the bike to operating temp, added 6oz of seafoam to the crankcase (1.5oz/qt oil) The ran it on the centerstand for 5 minutes, going through the gears. Got a great clean! The oil which usually was caramel color came out BLACK! Changed the oil & filter & she actually runs cooler.
  25. cabreco
    So whether I leave the anti dive on or off is inconsequential. Thanks for the tip on the caps. I read they can be a real PITA to reinstall and crossthreading is a problem fighting the preload. I think of all the upgrades, this will be the most notable in feel!
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