Jump to content

cabreco

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    978
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cabreco

  1. Hoss I put in Progressive last spring myself & have been trying to find the perfect setting. With the help of the people he I think I found it. I keep 3 lbs in the front. The rear I put at 62 with the damper on the # 2 setting. No shake shimmy or wobble. Tires I keep a 32 front 40 rear No issues at all
  2. Hey Mike, I got the amp today & wired it up. Works great! Sounds just like the OEM. I did have to disconnect the speakers from the OEM radio. Sharing them cause a slight distortion. One thing that I cant figure out. Everything works & sounds great unless I plug the MP3 Player int the USB charging port on the bike. Then a get bad distortion. Do you have the same issue?
  3. I wanted to share this with everybody here since I was SO impressed with this Ebay Seller. I just bought 2 Belstaff Zodiac summer jackets on Ebay for $49.99 each & they even REDUCED the shipping. (I paid $15 to have both shipped) The jackets I bought are made of Cordura with Hiena wear panels. It has reflective panels, vents velcro & zipper closure It also has a Thermalite liner. It's also waterproof and comes with ELBOW/SHOULDER/BACK ARMOR. Incredibly light & comfortable. They seem to run small so if you get one buy a size larger than your usual. The woman there Doris, was unbelievebly helpful on the phone. Here's a listing of their stuff, I highly recommend them. http://www.ebay.com/sch/roseburg.c.c/m.html?hash=item563fbb12f9&item=370436412153&pt=Apparel_Merchandise&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562
  4. Thanks Brian. I looked into that unfortunately my oem radio seem to have an issue with the volume potentiometer. Every so often either channel crackles & cuts out. I have to keep playing with the volume knob to get it back. Mikes option may just fix my problem with minimal cost & effort. ..and I get to leave the oem intact
  5. Thanks Mike! Done deal. Got one $33 shipped. This will be the easiest add on to the bike I've ever done. Appreciate the help! Andy
  6. Sweet rig. Like I said I NEVER use the radio or cassette so this is perfect! I have already replaced my speakers on my bike with a pair of Harman Kardon so I'm good to go there. I can also keep the oem rig & toggle the Mitzu , just to play the MP3 Where did you pick up the amp?
  7. Trader, most zip ties are vinyl. When you plastic weld, you have to use like plastic so in the case of our fairings... ABS. If you were to use the soldering gun, I would recommend using the ABS welding rods (white) that HF (or anyone) sells.
  8. Ok so looking to add an aux input to the Gen 1 so that I can get rid of the cassette interface. The reason is every time I hit a bump in the road the audio kicks out. I have to keep hitting the channel change button to get it to work again. In the garbage highways here in Hampton Roads, I'm hitting the button every 10 seconds. I also notice that the left (or right) speaker will begin crackling. I have to twist the volume to clear that up. (I have cleaned the potentiometer) So as you can imagine I have been spending a lot of time driving with one hand. This being the case I'm fed up of driving distracted so I want to swap out the stereo. Since I don't have a CB & don't need the intercom I guess I can gut it all out. My big concern is power usage. 1. How much power does the stock radio & amp draw? 2. Should I replace the amp as well or just put in a stereo & remove amp 3. I would appreciate any stereo recommendations. I guess any decent stereo would work (using a marine weatherproof faceplate) If I use an amp, what draw would you recommend?
  9. Yes there is a gasket & when I did my slave I bought a replacement but didn't use it. I removed the cover gingerly & the cover came off without damaging the gasket. I got a rebuild kit off Ebay and rebuilt the slave. Very easy to do. Here's a write up! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66302
  10. Seafoam is great stuff. I took it one step further and added 6oz of seafoam to the crankcase (1.5oz/qt oil) then warmed her up & ran through the gears a few times. My oil usually comes out dark gold but the first time I did it it came out BLACK! After & changed the oil & filter she ran cooler & the shifter was a lot smoother. I usually do the Seafoam in the cranck case every 4th oil change.
  11. cabreco

    15

    Rick I went to a Sherwin Williams AUTO paint supply house and the did a paint match directly from my bike. Remember each bike's paint will oxydize at a differnt rate so to spot paint your bike you need to have the bike scanned to match your paint. Now as far ass the add ons, I stepped in it BIG TIME. A few months after I bought my bike I found a fully blinged clone on Craigs List for $600. It ran (badly) but it was complete, with the exception of the left side upper fairing which was shattered. My bike cost me $1,300 with the parts bike & just a few other odds & ends I wound up with a 14K mile fully dressed bagger that runs like new for under $2,300. The 83 to 85 VR ar tought to find but they are out there. Hell I almost bout one that had a trike setup on CL for $1000! Some MKII stuff will interchange but not the tail. One thing I have found over the years...ANYTHING will retrofit to anything, but it will take fabrication abilities.
  12. My bike was the same way, Owner died, sat for years only has 15K on in. I had to deal with some issues but after 6 months and a lot of help from here, she's perfect. I have at LEAST 85K worry free miles left. As far as the baffles question, IDK how to pull these baffles but I would say keep her quiet. If you plan on long distance riding, the loud pipes will drive you nuts & you'll really prefer to hear the stereo. NOW if you are making a solo bobber out or it, I would use drag pipes! Welcome aboard!
  13. When being tailgated, I first flash my light, then hit the horn & wave him (usually her) to back off. If that fails, I actually slow down in 5 mph increments. Eventually the idiot will either back off, or pass me.
  14. Took her out for solo ride at 3 psi / 70 psi with setting 2 damper, the bottoming issue is gone & it's a nice smooth ride. I was able to drop 2 lbs in front by putting her up on the center stand. Question: how much of a difference would I feel if I dropped the front to 0 psi. Compared to my Honda 750 the Venture feels stiffer.
  15. Nice write up Randy! Brantley, I can tell you from personal experience, you just hit paydirt joining this forum. I was in your shoes last December. Neglected bike that needed lots of work. The people on this board are THE BEST! Depending on how bad the plastics are would depend on how you would repair in. The epoxies are very good. My plastics were in realy rough shape (some were jigsaw puzzles) so I went with plastic welding. Here's a few links I did on the welding process: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=691885#post691885 I now have a road ready tourer complete with very little expense thanks to the knowlege and assistance here. Welcome aboard!
  16. The class won't let the fronts go less than 5 psi. I'm going to have to crack the line. I am planning on disconnecting the antidives now because I installed progressives, but mainly to inprove braking. I set the rear to damper setting 2 and 70 psi lets see how that feels!
  17. Here in Virginia I was told it's called "Draftin'!" And they don't speed here either, it's "Qualifyin!"
  18. REALLY??? That would explain it. I was going by the owners manual numbers. So I guess fully loaded bags for a road trip I just max it out!
  19. Randy it that common up by you? When I was there in February I found the drivers extremely courteous. Maybe I got lucky that weekend or maybe I'm just use to the morons here in Hampton roads. I'm possibly just numb to it being from NYC
  20. What is the easiest way to add an aux input to the stock gen 1 stereo? I am currently using a cassette interface for my MP3 player but it really bites since every time I hit a bump it knocks out the sound & I have to keep hitting the reverse tape switch under the mute. I never use the cassette so removing it would not be a problem. Please keep in mind I am electronically challenged so pix or specifics would be real helpful. Thanks
  21. Went on a 50 mile ride with the wife today. I set the front at 7lbs (I have progressives) and 42 in the rear. On the highway, which was pretty bumpy, it felt like the rear shock was bottoming out. I have the damper set normally at position 3. Now the bags are on but basically empty. The wife & I weigh a total of 345 Lbs and I had a 1/2 a tank of gas. The system is holding pressure & not leaking. On flat ground I don't feel an issue only when I hit bumps & not massive potholes either. So is this a normal feel? Even though the shock has air could it be worn out? The bike oly has 15K miles
  22. You will have to remove the radio, amp & cassete, the entire top left half, the top side fairing & well can be unbolted from the lower half easy enough. It takes a little time but it's not difficult, just a P.I.T.A.
  23. Once you lube the cable, if it hasn't cleared You probably have an issue inside the throttle wire joint. My spring had slipped. I over twisted the throttle when I was removing the grips. I know exactly what the clicky-crunchy noise you speak of sounds like. I thought I broke a cable but it turned out to be an easy fix. Take it apart, inspect & clean the cables. The hardest part is you have to disassemble the left fairung to get to it.
  24. Goo gone is citris based & works pretty good on alot of stuff. I've use it on everything leather to painted surface with no damage at all. And it works! GOOF OFF is petroleum based & is harsher. I have used it on plastics (windscreen) & it has screwed it up like sandpaper. Also if you use it on paint, be gentle & after the mark is off use cleaner to remove it. It will eat paint if left on.
×
×
  • Create New...